Editors

The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women

EditorsOct 06, 2017

The Mistakes Made in Marketing to Women

The creator of JWT’s “Female Tribes” study talks with our editor-in-chief about older women being left out of advertising and why “shrink-it-and-pink-it” doesn’t work.

20171006_Female-Tribes-FINAL.jpg
Rachel Pashley started her rolling research project, “Female Tribes,” about five years ago after getting the sense that women today weren’t being marketed to properly. Today, it includes more than 8,000 women in 19 countries.

For me, the most interesting part of De Beers’s 2017 Diamond Insight Report came on page 13.

And it came from a woman who has been heading a now five-year-long research project into, as she put it, “contemporary femininity.”

Rachel Pashley is the London-based group planning head at J. Walter Thompson (JWT), the same agency that used to head De Beers’s U.S. marketing and advertising efforts in the United States, back in the big-budget days of “A Diamond is Forever.”

She pioneered a rolling study at the firm called “Female Tribes,” which has connected with thousands worldwide to gain a better understanding of women of all ages today.

De Beers interviewed her for its insight report, noting that “Many of the findings [of Female Tribes] that relate to diamond jewelry are used in this report.” The insight report is informing the Q4 marketing campaign and collection for De Beers’s diamond brand Forevermark, which will launch next week and will be focused on women, particularly those who buy jewelry for themselves.

Earlier this week, Pashley took the time to talk with National Jeweler over the phone about why she launched the Tribes project, what she’s learned, and what today’s diamond advertising is doing wrong.

National Jeweler: When, why and how did you start the Female Tribes project?

Rachel Pashley: I started it probably around five years ago. As part of my job, I travel around the world to various clients, and one of the things I noticed was I’d walk into boardrooms in, say, Russia or China and Brazil and one of the sort of startling things was … it was nearly always an entirely female board room.

It was just very impressive to see that something was changing and it was something that I wanted to record. Because, for the most part, my impression was that as marketers, we weren’t really catching up with what was happening with the real world.

Every time I saw a creative brief, nearly always we were referring to women in terms of their parental responsibilities; I saw “busy working mum” written on creative briefs a lot.

And, yet, when I saw a creative brief that was for a male audience, he got to have hopes, dreams, aspiration, ambitions, and that was incredibly frustrating.

So I embarked on an in-depth research project to really look at how powerful women are in

the world and how their roles are evolving. And it sort of snowballed.

After a couple of years, I was lucky enough to secure funding to conduct our own proprietary research through the agency, which is what we call the Women’s Index. It now covers 19 countries and over 8,000 women ages 17 to 70. What we can tell is the hopes, fears, ambitions, dreams, aspirations, and views on love and sexuality and technology of all these women from around the world.

It gives a very rich picture of contemporary femininity.

NJ: In the sense you use it in the study, what does the word “tribe” mean exactly?

RP: The tribes are a way of characterizing what I call female capital, which is the value women bring to the world.

We’ve identified cohorts of women in over 22 different tribes and counting.

We define the tribe based on attitudinal data. Whereas traditional consumer segmentation looks at your age and demographics, we think that’s quite a blunt tool to describe women.

Through the research we’ve been doing, [we’ve discovered that] age is no predictor of life stage. You can’t look at a woman and think she’ll be single in her 20s, married in her 30s, having children, retired in her 50s and nicely settled down at home bouncing grandchildren on her knee.

The fact is a woman in her 50s now is as likely to be single and dating as a women in her 20s. We’re seeing women in their teens start businesses. We’re seeing women in their 70s and 80s take up athletics.

You look at the way life has changed for women--the power and status that they have and the things they are doing--and it’s nothing short of a quiet revolution. And I really wanted to tell that story.

NJ: I know you’ve studied women all over the world but, for the sake of our readership, can you share some Tribe data about women in the United States?

RP: The U.S. for me was an interesting paradox.

One on hand, we observed many more Alpha Female tribes. What we see is that women in the U.S. are much more openly alpha and more openly confident in their own success than, say, European Alphas.

We also observed many more of what we call the Traditionalist tribes. We have a tribe called the Nurturers, or the spouse-focused tribe, and those are what you could classify as traditional homemakers. Their sole focus is the home and bringing up children.

So it’s this interesting mix: One on hand, you had a much higher index of Alpha females but, equally, you had a much higher index of what I call the traditional tribes in America.

I think the other thing that stood out in America was there were significantly more of the Not-Mum tribe--women who didn’t see themselves as childless but happily child-free. What we observed with the not-mum tribe is because they are not having to consult with others in decision-making, they make much faster, self-determined decisions.

But, equally, there was more frustration with say, for example, financial service providers. [For example, they feel that] if I’m walking into a bank and I’m not accompanied by a husband and we’re not talking about settling down and having children, they’re just not interested in my business.

NJ: Interesting. What are the biggest mistakes you see companies making when marketing and advertising products that are mainly bought and/or consumed by women?

RP: I think one of the big mistakse is this sense of, “Well, to market to women I need to feminize my product in some way”--the kind of shrink-it-and-pink-it philosophy.

I’m often fond of quoting the athletic/running shoe example … Women are getting into distance running more in the U.S., they are finishing races--more of them than men in the U.S. And it’s only now in 2017 that we are designing a trainer specifically for women’s feet. Before, they’d just take a men’s trainer, shrink it and put it in pastel colors.

NJ: Because, clearly, we all want to wear everything pink.

RP: (Laughs.) I find it quite bizarre.

There’s a computer company that shall remain nameless that launched a laptop for women and they launched it with an in-built calorie counter. That’s just a face-palm moment of, what were you thinking? That’s a fundamental misunderstanding of women.

NJ: Can you provide any commentary or observations on jewelry advertising specifically?

RP: One of the things that I observe--and I think, to be fair, some of the people I’ve spoken to in the industry would observe as well--is that the model of advertising is still quite, in some cases, old-school.

I think particularly in diamond jewelry, there’s a lot of emphasis on love gifting; you’re almost creating a narrative of, “Be a good girl, get a diamond!” And you’re not giving women enough permission to buy for themselves, to reward themselves.

I think that’s reflected in the communication but also, in some cases, in the in-store experience.

Sometimes it can be quite intimidating going in as a women on your own to buy jewelry for yourself. You almost feel like as soon as you’re through the doors, again [like in the bank example above], there’s the expectation of where’s the fiancé, where’s the husband? And of course the big-ticket item is going to be bought by the wealthy male partner and gifted to the woman, as opposed to her buying it for herself.

My other observations would be you still see too many women who are in photoshoots wearing jewelry in a very passive pose. So, beautiful woman, draped over furniture, wearing the gorgeous bracelet--she looks incredibly passive, like she’s the object, not the subject, of her own life story, which is a frustration.

Equally, I also see this--that sometimes the models feel so young. We’re ignoring wealthy [baby] boomer women. Certainly in the U.K., boomers control over 70 percent of personal wealth, make over 40 percent of consumer purchases … but they’re being largely ignored, sort of airbrushed out of the picture.

NJ: Can you give me an example of a company or brand you think does a great job of speaking women today?

RP: I think what Under Armour is doing is really interesting.

Something we saw in our research was that women would rather be defined as “strong” than “sweet.”

I love the work that Under Armour does in celebrating women’s strength, and unapologetic strength. What we see is that women are embracing their physicality and physical prowess.

And we also observed in our research that high-achieving women often have a secret sporting side that makes them the women they are. So they might use sport and athleticism in a slightly different way … not necessarily to win the gold medal but to feel strong and powerful, fuel that inner strength.

NJ: Anyone else?

RP: I like some of the work that Calvin Klein has been doing in featuring [73-year-old model and actress] Lauren Hutton--so featuring older, amazingly beautiful women who are more than 25, and I think that’s beautiful, and actually not airbrushing wrinkles but celebrating mature, beautiful, iconic women who have substance to them as well.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsApr 23, 2024
The Smart Lab: Advanced Email Marketing Strategies for Mother’s Day

Emmanuel Raheb recommends digging into demographic data, customizing your store’s communications, and retargeting ahead of May 12.

Hannoush Jewelers Queensbury NY location
IndependentsApr 23, 2024
Hannoush Jewelers Opens New Store in New York

Located in the town of Queensbury, it features a dedicated bridal section and a Gabriel & Co. store-in-store.

Aerial shot of the Diavik Diamond Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories
SourcingApr 23, 2024
Rio Tinto’s Q1 Production Drops Amid Pause to Honor Lost Colleagues

The mining company’s Diavik Diamond Mine lost four employees in a plane crash in January.

1-(3.18).JPG
Brought to you by
The Blueprint for Success in Scalable, Personalized Jewelry Retail

With Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.

203-carat, 116-carat, and 42-carat diamond
SourcingApr 23, 2024
Lucapa Sells 3 Diamonds for $10.5M in First Lulo Tender of 2024

A 203-carat diamond from the alluvial mine in Angola achieved the highest price.

Weekly QuizApr 19, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Take the Quiz
William Ruser: The Jeweler Who Charmed Hollywood book cover
GradingApr 23, 2024
GIA Has a New Book About William Ruser

Ruser was known for his figural jewelry with freshwater pearls and for his celebrity clientele.

Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo modeling Jacquie Aiche’s Rebel Heart collection
CollectionsApr 22, 2024
Jacquie Aiche’s New Campaign Stars Adam Levine, Behati Prinsloo

The “Rebel Heart” campaign embodies rebellion, romance, and sensuality, the brand said.

Jewelers of America Fly In Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your Business

For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.

Virtual Diamond Boutique
SourcingApr 22, 2024
Virtual Diamond Boutique Rebrands as ‘VDB’

The overhaul includes a new logo and enhanced digital marketplace.

Signet Jewelers employees and St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital
MajorsApr 22, 2024
Signet Raises Nearly $9M for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital

The money will go toward supporting ongoing research and aftercare programs for childhood cancer survivors.

Retrouvaí’s Treasure Necklace
CollectionsApr 19, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Treasure Necklace

A new addition to the “Heirloom” collection, this one-of-a-kind piece features 32 custom-cut gemstones.

Stock image crime handcuffs
CrimeApr 19, 2024
Grand Jury to Hear Case Against Jeweler Charged in Fatal Shove Following IJO Show

Last month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.

China Pearl collage
MajorsApr 19, 2024
Unique Designs Acquires China Pearl

The move will allow the manufacturing company to offer a more “diverse and comprehensive” range of products.

Printed and digital AGS Ideal grading reports
GradingApr 19, 2024
AGS Ideal Report Now Available in Printed Form

From now through mid-May, GIA will be offering the reports at a 50 percent discount.

Stock image of a polished diamond in tweezers
SourcingApr 18, 2024
Diamond Trade Remains Cautious Amid Economic Uncertainty

De Beers’ rough diamond sales were down 18 percent year-over-year in its latest round of sales.

LVAJWS24_carousel_images_1872x1052_1.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 18, 2024
Discover History’s Hidden Gems at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Kelly Yoch
WatchesApr 18, 2024
Watch E-tailer Collectability Hires Kelly Yoch

The Patek Philippe expert will serve as personal curator for the brand-focused company.

Interior of TAG Heuer Boutique on Carnival Cruise Ship
WatchesApr 18, 2024
TAG Heuer Opens Its Largest Standalone Boutique at Sea

The 553-square-foot shop is aboard the Carnival Jubilee cruise ship.

 Stock image of a gavel
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2024
NDC Prevails in U.K. Case Over Lab-Grown Diamond Advertising

NDC filed a complaint against Skydiamond for use of phrases like “diamonds made entirely from the sky.”

John Carter, 2024 Shipley Award winner
Events & AwardsApr 17, 2024
And the 2024 Winner of the Shipley Award Is …

John Carter received the AGS’s highest honor Tuesday afternoon at Conclave in Austin, Texas.

Visual from Tiffany & Co.’s With Love Since 1837 campaign
FinancialsApr 17, 2024
LVMH’s Q1 Jewelry Sales Fall 5%

LVMH said the company performed well despite an uncertain geopolitical and economic environment.

 B&D ribbon cutting in RI
MajorsApr 17, 2024
Stuller’s B&D Opens New Headquarters

B&D Sales and Service held a ribbon-cutting event for its new location in Cranston, Rhode Island.

Model Wearing Eat Cake Collection
CollectionsApr 16, 2024
Akaila Reid Launches ‘Eat Cake’ Collection

It’s ultra-feminine and filled with gold, pearls, and soft pastels.

Emily Highet Morgan, Emily Bennett
MajorsApr 16, 2024
Loudr Adds 2 Directors

Emily Highet Morgan and Emily Bennett have joined the agency’s team.

Stuller catalogs
MajorsApr 16, 2024
Stuller Releases First Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Catalog

Its updated book for mountings is also now available.

Headshot of Karen Rentmeesters
SourcingApr 16, 2024
Karen Rentmeesters Takes Over as Interim CEO of AWDC

She has been with the organization since 2010, most recently serving as its chief officer of PR and industry relations.

Joyce’s Jewelry
TechnologyApr 15, 2024
Judge Rules Jeweler’s Lawsuit Against PNC Bank Can Move Forward

Joyce’s Jewelry sued the bank after cybercriminals drained its accounts of nearly $1.6 million through a series of wire transfers.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy