By Ashley Davis
This season, fashion brand ADEAM and jewelry line I aM by Ileana Makri partnered up.
This season, fashion brand ADEAM and jewelry line I aM by Ileana Makri partnered up.

It’s not easy for an accessory to stand out on the runway, so when a designer wants a piece of jewelry to be seen, it better be big.

From the looks of it, all of the major players in New York fashion wanted to be sure their jewels weren’t lost in the shuffle, because the styles on display were over-the-top bold and statement-making.

Design Collaborations
The most solid ready-to-wear fashion and jewelry collaboration was undoubtedly Tibi and Paige Novick. This season, the duo came up with an organic, sculptural 18-karat yellow gold-plated brass earring, worn as a single. Now that Paige Novick is solely designing fine jewelry under her own name, this statement piece provides an attainable entry point to her designs.

Before fine jewelry brand Wwake was making bucketfuls of covetable dainty gemstone-laden jewelry, it was crafting large, organic costume pieces. Getting back to its roots, the brand partnered with designer Phelan, showing new costume pieces under the name “Closer by Wwake.”

Ileana Makri’s bridge jewelry line, I aM by Ileana Makri, which is designed by Makri’s daughter Amalia, shared the spotlight with fashion brand Adeam for the first time this season. The jewels were two-tone white and yellow gold plated, and came as earrings, ear cuffs, a bracelet and choker. Only time will tell if this is the first of more collaborations between the brands.

Storied jewelry house Belperron, which reopened for business this year, lent its torque beauty to Carolina Herrera’s runway. The partnership was merely for styling purposes; the iconic design is all Belperron.

Hoop There It Is
Altuzarra, the cream of the New York crop, featured majorly oversized chunky hoop earrings in shades like silver and matte yellow. The look was very editorial and accentuated with slicked-back hair. Hoops of all sizes are having a moment in fine jewelry, and I wouldn’t mind seeing a thin gold fine version of this twisted design.

Also in on the hoop game was Hellessy, which sent this two-level silver hoop down the runway. The style is certainly bold, but also wearable in its simplicity. Like Tibi x Paige Novick, Diane von Furstenberg was on to the dangling hoop trend; the brand showed this large adorned version in their presentation images. 

Riding Solo
Monse is helmed by the duo who are now taking the reins at Oscar de la Renta in the ever-evolving chess match that is fashion house appointments. Yes, their earring belongs in the hoop category, but it also is a member of the single earring trend (and check out that septum ring).

Prabal Gurung sent fun, silver ribbon-like earrings down the runway and Dion Lee embraced minimalism with large metal baubles.

Chandelier Swinging
Oscar de la Renta and Marchesa went in a more classic direction than their New York counterparts when it came to runway adornment, which suits their evening-wear leanings. For Marchesa that meant loads of sparkly crystals in a star and moon motif, and for Oscar de la Renta it translated into gold ancient-inspired earrings that were Mediterranean in feel.

Art Speak
If a Matisse cut-out and a Calder mobile had a baby, it would be these Proenza Schouler earrings, which were my personal runway favorite. I expect to see these in a fair share of magazine editorials in the spring.

Michael Kors matched a 60s-esque earring to the model’s outfit, for a major flower power moment that brought to mind a Twiggy photoshoot.

Heavy Metal
Alexander Wang favors tough, industrial pieces to bejewel his edgy clothing. The chain on the right is adorned with a lighter. It doesn’t get much more functional than that. 

CG made a seriously cool brooch, which was also styled to look somewhat like a bolo on certain runway looks. The rose and yellow gold matched the models’ earrings.

Special Moments
Rosie Assoulin’s jewelry always defies categorization. Assoulin applies the same amount of focus to her runway accessories as she does her clothing, which is rare and explains her cult following. A runway round-up wouldn’t be complete without her. I adore these gold wire facial outlines.  

Rodarte can be counted on for a good piece of costume jewelry. This season saw earrings linked by a chain that draped in front of the face, a little tricky to wear in real life, plus stacks upon stacks of mixed metal bracelets.

Marc Jacobs adorned his runway fleet with rough crystals looped on cords, which were by far the most urbane aspect of Jacobs’ larger-than-life collection.

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