Editors

Watch out, I’m using tools

EditorsMay 08, 2012

Watch out, I’m using tools

Last week was Madison Avenue Watch Week here in New York, a seven-day stretch dedicated to showcasing and recognizing the work of watchmakers and the high-end timepiece brands that line Madison Avenue. As part of the week’s festivities, I took...

Last week was Madison Avenue Watch Week here in New York, a seven-day stretch dedicated to showcasing and recognizing the work of watchmakers and the high-end timepiece brands that line Madison Avenue.


As part of the week’s festivities, I took part in a mechanical watch-making workshop at the Peninsula Hotel, organized by the Swiss watch industry’s Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH).

I must admit I had my doubts before heading into the class.


I don’t have an exceptionally steady hand, probably due to the three cups of black tea I consume throughout the day. Also, as has been mentioned before in this blog, my vision is not the best to begin with, and staring at a computer screen for 10 hours a day hasn’t helped; I now have prescription computer glasses and am pretty sure I’m on my way to needing bifocals.

Suffice it to say, I didn’t think watch-making would be my strong suit, and I wondered if I’d even make it through the entire class. I honestly was nervous about the whole experience.

The movement we disassembled and then re-assembled was, as the wonderful instructors from FHH told us, an ETA (Unitas) 6497-1, produced between 1967 and 1985.




One very intelligent tip I received when disassembling the watch was to keep the parts together that belonged together.


The 36.6 mm hand-wound mechanical movement (below, right) has 78 parts, 17 jewels and a 46-hour power reserve with off-center seconds at 9 o’clock. As mechanical watch movements go, this is a pretty simple one, perfect practice for people who are learning.



Despite my nerves, and the cup of Earl Grey tea I consumed just prior to the class, I did better than I thought I would.

One of the hardest parts of the class for me, as well as many others, was putting back into place a part called the yoke spring. Yet with some help from an FHH instructor I managed to get the spring back into place without losing it.

Not having the steadiest hand (see tea reference above), I also scratched up the movement quite a bit when try to remove and then re-set the screws. This would never be allowed for a true watchmaker. We were told that any movement that gets scratched is considered damaged.

While out for drinks on Friday night, I was telling a watch-loving friend of mine about my experience

(this is a 33-year-old woman with a passion for watches; retailers, take note). She has her dad’s old Rolex and was telling me how expensive it is to get the watch fixed.

After spending three hours learning how to assemble one simple movement, it is easy to see why.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

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