Editors

20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: The Bridal Bunch

EditorsJan 15, 2020

20 Designers to Watch in 2020 and Beyond: The Bridal Bunch

This cohort channels something old while infusing something new into jewels that turn engagement rings and wedding bands into art.

20200115_SingleStone3.jpg
A bridal design from Los Angeles-based Single Stone

In the first installment of my 20 Designers to Watch in 2020 series, I highlighted four jewelry designers who interpret color in original and compelling ways.

In Part 2, I look to four independent brands straddling the line between classicism and modernity in their bridal creations, transforming a category that can be staid into jewels covetable purely on the basis of their design.

The Bridal Bunch: Azlee, Erika Winters, Eva Fehren, Single Stone


Azlee
Designer: Baylee Zwart
Founded: 2015
Based In: Los Angeles
Key Retailers: Dover Street Market, Matches Fashion, The Webster

Upon its founding, Azlee quickly became a darling of buyers and press with its geometric array of jewelry subtly infused with ancient influences.

In a few short seasons, Azlee bloomed into a mature, refined collection under the discerning eye of designer Baylee Zwart, who boasts an artist’s sense of scale and proportion.

Casting the Azlee lens on bridal, Zwart really hit her stride as she sourced unique diamond cuts that appealed to her and demonstrated proclivity for graphic shapes.

“Baylee Zwart is the innovator in the bridal space,” said consultant and former Brides editor Shane Clark. “Her use of unique-cut stones, bold graphic designs and fresh perspective on engagement rings are distinct.”

As halo settings reached peak popularity in the United States, Zwart championed bold, classic bezels that transformed simple diamond solitaire styles into dynamic statement pieces.

She’s since complicated her settings, adding side stones or nesting wedding bands, furthering the bridal-jewelry-as-art conversation.


Erika Winters
Founded: 2014
Based In: Seattle
Key Retailers: Alchemy Jeweler, Greenwich St. Jewelers, Twist

Bridal is Erika Winters’ claim to fame, executed with the detail and precision of a master, so it’s easy to forget her eponymous line is less than a decade old.

“Because her vision is so strong, you’d think she was already designing for decades,” remarked Greenwich St. Jewelers owner Jennifer Gandia, who carries Winters’ line.

“She is obsessed with the details, and it shows in every [aspect] of an Erika Winters ring—the finish, the piercing and the milgrain.”

Winters’ collection possesses an old-fashioned romanticism, marked with early 20th century design elements.

An overtly feminine quality in the finely wrought settings lend the engagement rings and wedding bands their nostalgic feel.

These attributes have become Winters’ signature look, but her work always includes a modern touch, often courtesy of sophisticated satin or sandblasted finishes.


Eva Fehren
Designer: Eva Zuckerman
Founded: 2011
Based In: New York
Key Retailers: Twist, Etc., Jeffrey

Eva
Fehren, designed by Eva Zuckerman, has a reputation as the cool girl’s fine jewelry brand of choice, using stark lines and a moody color palette to make flattering jewelry with a sharp edge.

Zuckerman’s bridal offerings don’t deviate from her signature aesthetic.

Like her main line, bridal styles stack and nest, are often finished with rhodium, and diamonds typically feature the straight lines of which she’s so fond.

“I think it’s particularly remarkable how Eva does ‘alternative’ bridal using the most traditional materials,” opined fine jewelry writer, stylist and consultant Kareem Rashed.

“She somehow manages to make a diamond solitaire feel fresh and cool, without any gimmicks—no small feat.”

Zuckerman’s engagement rings and wedding bands are typically minimal, which is key to being versatile enough for daily wear, but wildly different from her contemporaries’ styles.

They will only grow in their appeal as “alternative bridal” gains a greater footing in the marketplace.


Single Stone
Designers: Ari and Corina Madilian
Founded: 2004
Based In: Los Angeles
Key Retailers: Single Stone LA, Single Stone San Marino, Croghan’s, Greenwich St. Jewelers

“They were the first to use antique diamonds in a collection of new engagement rings that honestly interpreted the best designs from the last century,” said Greenwich St.’s Gandia of Single Stone, headed by husband-and-wife duo Ari and Corina Madilian.

Gandia credits Ari’s “knowledge and expertise” and Corina’s “style and passion” as the winning combination behind Single Stone’s particular style of old-world elegance, which combines striking stones with bold, directional settings.

Single Stone’s bridal line was a slow and natural progression for the company that opened a storefront in downtown Los Angeles in 1988 selling restored antique jewelry, as well as antique and vintage diamonds.

Launched in 2004, the eponymous bridal collection accesses timeless stylistic elements of jewelry from the past, whether ornate detailing reminiscent of Art Nouveau, or the clean, bold lines of Art Deco.

The Madilians’ current styles are of-the-moment translations of engagement ring design hallmarks that have held up, a way of appreciating vintage without being too on the nose.

Their dedication to interesting antique diamonds has placed them at the forefront of the current vintage and antique bridal trend in which older styles, with all their imperfections, feel fresh and novel.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Asian Star’s diamond manufacturing facility in India
SourcingMar 27, 2024
Compliance, Caution, and Concern: The Current Outlook of Indian Diamantaires

There is a willingness to comply with new government-mandated regulations, with an insistence that they should be practical and realistic.

Kira Diam solar plant
Lab-GrownMar 27, 2024
Indian Lab-Grown Diamond Manufacturers Keep Growing

A combination of factors is driving growth in the industry despite the precipitous drop in prices across the board.

Bharat Ratnam, a Mega Common Facilitation Centre (CFC)
SourcingMar 27, 2024
Reinvigorating SEEPZ, the Epicenter of India’s Studded Jewelry Exports

The zone’s modernization will enhance and increase India’s jewelry manufacturing capabilities while aiding small and mid-sized businesses.

Jewelers of America Fly In Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your Business

For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.

SRK Empire and SRK House
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
SRK Exports’ Journey Toward Net Zero Impact

By the end of this year, SRK’s diamond manufacturing complexes will achieve net zero emissions, one of an impressive array of achievements.

Weekly QuizMar 21, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
Georgia May Jagger Tommy Hilfiger ad campaign
FinancialsMar 27, 2024
Movado’s Full-Year Sales Sink 11%

The company plans to invest $25 million in marketing initiatives to boost awareness around its namesake and licensed brands.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysMar 27, 2024
Consumer Confidence Held Steady in March

Optimism about the current state of the economy was offset by anxiety around inflation and the political environment.

BTYB-HoBrothers-updated.png
Brought to you by
The Scalable, Professional, and Effortless Solution for High-Demand Custom Jewelry Retailers

Ho Brothers offers scalable solutions for the future of custom jewelry.

Bernadette Mack
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
Mercury Free Mining Hires Bernadette Mack

The former WJA executive director is MFM’s new managing director.

April Is Diamonds Do Good Month
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces Its April Initiative

DDG encourages retailers to educate customers on the positive impact of purchasing natural diamonds.

Tiffany & Co. With Love, Since 1837
MajorsMar 26, 2024
Tiffany & Co. Debuts ‘With Love, Since 1837’ Campaign

Highlighting the most iconic Tiffany collections, it’s inspired by the company’s late window designer, Gene Moore.

National Jeweler columnists Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 26, 2024
Creative Connecting: AI Tools and Tips for Social Media

Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen explore how jewelers can save time and money by using AI to analyze engagement and create content.

Nordstrom Men’s Store New York City
MajorsMar 26, 2024
Nordstrom May Go Private, Says Report

The retailer previously turned down an $8.4 billion offer in 2018.

Interior of Miami Lakes Jewelers
IndependentsMar 26, 2024
Miami Lakes Jewelers to Close After 37 Years

The Florida store’s owner Miguel Gonzalez is retiring.

 International Gemological Institute
GradingMar 26, 2024
IGI Announces Tech for ID’ing Lab-Grown Colored Diamonds

The lab stresses the importance of accurate identification, as the difference in price is “substantial.”

Kendra Scott lab-grown diamond jewelry
CollectionsMar 25, 2024
Kendra Scott Debuts Lab-Grown Diamond Fashion Jewelry

The brand also plans to expand its retail footprint from 138 to 200 stores over the next three years.

Instappraise logo NAJA logo
Events & AwardsMar 25, 2024
NAJA, Instappraise Offering Scholarships for Aspiring Jewelry Appraisers

One is reserved for a NAJA member, the other for a non-member.

Carie Lehrke and Megan Mattice
MajorsMar 25, 2024
Borsheims Announces New VP of HR, Assistant Manager

Longtime employees Carie Lehrke and Megan Mattice have received promotions.

My Next Question graphic vintage jewelry webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 22, 2024
Watch: How to Buy and Sell Vintage Jewelry

Three guests joined National Jeweler and Jewelers of America to discuss trending time periods, spotting reproductions, and more.

Chris Clipper and Robert Lepere
MajorsMar 22, 2024
David Yurman Announces New CFO, Chief People Officer

Chris Clipper and Robert Lepere join the company with 50 years of combined experience.

Nakard pyrite earrings
CollectionsMar 22, 2024
Piece of the Week: Nakard’s Pyrite Earrings

The trendy, metallic earrings wink at classic spring colors.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeMar 21, 2024
Sparks Fly as Burglars Lose Safe on California Freeway

JSA said a man and woman pulled the safe out of an Oakland jewelry store but couldn’t quite get it into their van.

Grizzly Mining rough emeralds
SourcingMar 21, 2024
Grizzly Sells 4,145-Carat Emerald for Over $1M

The miner’s March auction generated $19 million.

Helen McCluskey
MajorsMar 21, 2024
Signet Jewelers Names New Board Chair

Helen McCluskey will succeed H. Todd Stitzer when he meets his 12-year term limit in June.

Julia Roberts wearing a Chopard necklace
CollectionsMar 20, 2024
Julia Roberts Co-Designs New Chopard Jewelry Collection

“Chopard x Julia Roberts” showcases the first gems cut from the 6,000-carat-plus “Insofu Emerald."

Tanzanite white gold ring Jared
FinancialsMar 20, 2024
Signet’s Q4 Same-Store Sales Sink 10%

The jewelry giant also posted a double-digit drop in same-store sales for the full year.

Gold and diamond Baume & Mercier watch Elvis gave to Dodie Marshall
AuctionsMar 20, 2024
Vintage Baume & Mercier Gifted by Elvis Going Up for Auction

Elvis gave the watch to actress Dodie Marshall after filming “Easy Come, Easy Go.”

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy