Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 34 Page 35 Page 36 Page 37 Page 38 Page 39 Page 40 Page 41 Page 42 Page 43 Page 44 Page 45 Page 46 Page 47 Page 48 Page 49 Page 50 Page 51 Page 52 Page 53 Page 54 Page 55 Page 56 Page 57 Page 58 Page 59 Page 60 Page 61 Page 62 Page 63 Page 64 Page 65 Page 66 Page 67 Page 686 STATE OF THE MAJORS 2016 letter from the publisher “W ill you be bringing back State of the Majors?” Since February 2015 when Jewel- ers ofAmerica purchased National Jeweler that was the question I was asked the most. In what might have been my first conversation with Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff she said: “We should bring back State of the Majors.” It was relayed to me in emails, voicemails and casual conversations from all corners of our industry. Of course, when we finally did announce that we were bringing back State of the Majors all those same people wrote or called again to say I didn’t have to thank them for their brilliant idea but did tell me: “You’re welcome.” The truth is that it took a long time for me to feel assured enough to tackle rebooting an industry staple that we were also going to produce in print. (Note: Despite what people who contact us on a regular basis believe, National Jeweler has not printed anything since 2010.) The State of the Majors is an important component of this industry.The fact that there are fewer majors or that we all do business differently than even four years ago when it was last published doesn’t change its relevance. In our professional (and sometimes personal) lives, we need someone to draw a line in the sand and say “Stop for a moment and look at where we are.”That’s what the State of the Majors is about.You look at what is out there and you look at yourself and take stock. It only makes sense that National Jeweler is the one to draw that line.We are the industry’s truly independent source for news and information. In this issue, in addition to the “$100 Million Supersellers” and the “Top 50 North American Retail Jewelry Chains by Store Count” lists, our writers analyze the biggest players in our business and explore the other key parts to our diverse industry. We look at the state of colored stones, diamonds and designers. We want our readers to get a complete picture of that horizon that is past the line in the sand. Our talented team of Michelle Graff, Brecken Branstrator andAshley Davis along with contributor Danielle Max know their respective beats so well and are always looking for ways to help the industry get smarter and more informed. My hope is that reading this issue imparts information you can use to evaluate the current state of your own business and to help you plan a more successful year to come. I would like to thank Edahn Golan for assembling our two lists, Peggy Jo Donahue and Andrea Lynn for checking all our work, and Molly Fallon and Lauren Thompson for making this, our website and our daily newsletter look as good as it does. They put in a lot of hard work and effort. And of all the people who wrote and asked about bringing back State of the Majors, I must mention my friend Dave Siminski. He was my go-to guy during this process and nobody is better at building your confidence while simultaneously keep- ing you humble. Any complaints? This was all his idea. Matthew Tratner October 2016 PUBLISHER Matthew Tratner | 646-658-5805 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Michelle Graff | 212-687-2758 EDITORIAL Senior Editor Brecken Branstrator | 212-687-2763 Associate Editor Ashley Davis | 646-658-5802 CONTRIBUTORS Research Edahn Golan Editorial Danielle Max Copy Editors Peggy Jo Donahue, Andrea Lynn Design and Layout Weswen Design MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS Director of Marketing & Communications Molly Fallon | Assoc. Dir. of Communications & Digital Development Lauren Thompson | SALES U.S. Sales Inquiries | (646) 658-5805 India | Bhupal Potdar | EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Ryan Berg, Lee Michaels Fine Jewelers Karen Goracke, Borsheims Cathy Calhoun, Calhoun Jewelers Larry Pelzel, Neiman Marcus Bill Farmer, Jr., Farmer’s Jewelry PRESIDENT & CEO David J. Bonaparte BOARD OF DIRECTORS Ryan Berg, Chairman, Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry John Henne, Chair-Elect, Henne Jewelers Mark Light, Vice Chair, Signet Jewelers Holly Wesche, Vice Chair, Wesche Jewelers Coleman Clark, Treasurer, BC Clark Jewelers Cathy Tivol, Secretary, TIVOL Bill Farmer, Jr., Past Board Chair, Farmer’s Jewelry Mercedes Abramo, Cartier North America Mike Alexander, Jewelers Mutual Marc Bridge, Ben Bridge Jeweler Cathy Calhoun, Calhoun Jewelers Jenny Caro, Jewelry By Designs Ronda Daily, Bremer Jewelry Karen Goracke, Borsheims Efraim Grinberg, Movado Group, Inc. Simon Katz, Simons Jewelers Robert F. Moeller II, R.F. Moeller Jeweler Joseph Molfese, Bella Cosa Jewelers Larry Pelzel, Neiman Marcus Michael Pollak, Hyde Park Jewelers Matthew Rosenheim, Tiny Jewel Box Craig Rottenberg, Long’s Jewelers Lane Schiffman, Schiffman’s Fred Weber, Weber Jewelers Inc. Betsy Wolgemuth, Koser Jewelers 120 Broadway, Suite 2820 | New York, NY 10271 |