By Michelle Graff
The new men’s 39 mm Calatrava Ref. 6006 powered by the extra-thin Caliber 214 (left) and a women’s high jewelry Calatrava with the same slim movement
Basel, Switzerland--Watch brands are never short on anniversaries to celebrate.

If it’s not the entire company marking a milestone--Patek Philippe, for example, marked 175 years in 2014 with the introduction of the 20-complication Grandmaster Chime--then it’s the anniversary of a collection, movement or dial design.

For Patek Philippe this year, there are two anniversaries: the Aquanaut turns 20, with a new model entering the collection, and the automatic, slim Caliber 214 movement turns 40.

The new 42.2 mm Aquanaut has a white gold case and, like a number of other Patek Philippe introductions this year, has a blue strap and dial (approximately $34,348). It’s powered by the Ref. 5186 movement.

20170327 Aquanaut

Meanwhile, the extra-thin Caliber 214 originally debuted in 1977 in the middle of the “quartz crisis” when the company felt that it needed to introduce an ultra-thin automatic movement in order to compete with quartz.

New models that feature the Caliber 214 include the Calatrava Ref. 6006 with off-center small seconds between 4 and 5 (approximately $27,276), and a ladies’ Calatrava Ref. 4899 high jewelry watch with a dial featuring natural pink mother-of-pearl from Mississippi (approximately $90,920).

Also new from Patek Philippe is a new perpetual calendar with a 40 mm white gold case and a new movement, the self-winding 5320 (approximately $73,746).

20170317 Perpetual CalendarThis is the new perpetual calendar watch introduced by Patek Philippe at Baselworld this year. The brand made its first perpetual calendar in 1925.

The watch has day, month, leap year and day/night indication apertures, date by hand and moon phases, as well as interchangeable full and sapphire-crystal case backs.

Patek Philippe introduced a total of 25 new models at Baselworld 2017, 17 men’s watches and eight women’s models.

The brand also presented its largest ever collection of rare, handcrafted timepieces.

20170327 PP AzulerosThere are two limited-edition Calatrava “Azulejos” watches. One depicts a barge and the other a porter (pictured here).

Among the introductions were two limited-edition 27.5 mm white gold Calatrava “Azulejos” watches powered by the extra-thin Caliber 214 movement.

Azulejos are the ceramic tiles found throughout Portugal that are assembled in a mosaic-like fashion in order to create large-scale murals.

For this two limited-edition Calatrava Azulejos, Patek Philippe’s artisans hand-painted two tiny scenes on genuine enamel dials, one of a porter and one of a barge.

Get the Daily News >
National Jeweler

Fine Jewelry Industry News

Since 1906, National Jeweler has been the must-read news source for smart jewelry professionals--jewelry retailers, designers, buyers, manufacturers, and suppliers. From market analysis to emerging jewelry trends, we cover the important industry topics vital to the everyday success of jewelry professionals worldwide. National Jeweler delivers the most urgent jewelry news necessary for running your day-to-day jewelry business here, and via our daily e-newsletter, website and other specialty publications, such as "The State of the Majors." National Jeweler is published by Jewelers of America, the leading nonprofit jewelry association in the United States.