From lighter color palettes to the integration of AR, experts offer inspiration for jewelers in need of an aesthetic refresh.
Lab-Grown Diamonds Land at Place Vendôme
Courbet is headed by a former Richemont executive and a marketing executive turned jewelry designer.
Paris—Place Vendôme is where César Ritz opened his celebrated hotel that housed Coco Chanel and served as a favored watering hole for Ernest Hemingway (so much so that the hotel bar bears his name).
For 200 years, the famed square in Paris’ 1st arrondissement also has been home to boutiques for the world’s most illustrious fashion and jewelry houses, including French heritage brands like Boucheron, Chaumet, Cartier, Mauboussin and Mellerio, which opened in 1815 as the first jeweler on the plaza.
Now, Place Vendôme houses a company with a future bent, a fledgling lab-grown diamond jewelry brand helmed by a former Richemont executive and a Swedish marketing executive turned designer.
Courbet, named after the innovative French painter thought to be behind the destruction of the column in the center’s square in the 1870s, opened a showroom at 7 Place Vendôme in May 2018 and began selling online the following month. The store is located on the fifth floor in the Cour Vendôme.
Manuel Mallen, who spent nearly 20 years as an executive with Piaget and then Baume & Mercier, started the brand in 2017 with Marie-Ann Wachtmeister, a former marketing manager in Europe for Procter & Gamble who started and then sold her own telecom company before getting into jewelry design in 2010.
Like so many other companies that sell man-made diamonds, Courbet’s marketing uses words like “sustainable” and “ethical,” but it also pays homage to the history and heritage of the brands in the square it occupies.
Courbet, the company’s press kit reads, “embodies the reinvention of Place Vendôme, and proposes the next generation of jewelry,” while noting that it is not “aiming to revolutionize the sector or denounce its traditional players. After more than 25 years as part of this industry, Manuel Mallen simply wants to offer an alternative.”
View this post on InstagramA post shared by COURBET • Joaillier de Valeurs (@courbetofficial) on Nov 6, 2018 at 6:40am PST
The company told National Jeweler that it has a variety of sources for its diamonds, including San Francisco-based Diamond Foundry, Russian lab-grown diamond company New Diamond Technology (NDT) and “very soon” will be sourcing stones from a diamond grower in France.
Among the brand’s standouts are the “Eclipse” bangle bracelets, which bring to mind another French jeweler, Cartier, and its ubiquitous Love bracelets.
The jewelry is crafted in 18-karat recycled white, yellow or rose gold and is manufactured in Europe—in Paris and Lyon, France as well as Milan—using craftsmen who make jewelry for other brands on Place Vendôme.
Last year, De Beers launched Lightbox, and J.C. Penney and Macy’s both added the Richline-supported line “Grown With Love” just before the holidays.
Another Berkshire Hathaway-owned company, Helzberg, also has expanded its man-made diamond offerings.
The jeweler, which ranked as the eighth largest fine jeweler in terms of sales and the third largest in terms of size in National Jeweler’s 2018 “State of the Majors” report, started selling the “Light Heart” line late last year.
Helzberg Diamonds first experimented with lab-grown offerings in 2015, testing pink, yellow and white stones from Scio and Renaissance Diamonds, though it dropped the line shortly after.
The North Kansas City, Missouri-based chain also carries man-made diamonds from Altr.
The Latest
Sotheby’s will auction jewelry belonging to the “Diamonds Are Forever” singer in Paris this October.
Sherry Smith shares tips for fostering successful vendor-retailer partnerships, from marketing investment to fast-seller replenishment.
GIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.
Herold has been with the organization for 22 years and will continue in her current role of conference director.
“Fancy Studs” will feature revamped branding and a new lab-grown diamond fine jewelry collection.
The 2024-2025 edition features new colors and styles, as well as storytelling elements.
Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.
The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”
The announcement coincided with its full-year results, with growth driven by its jewelry brands.
Looking ahead, the retailer said it sees “enormous potential” in Roberto Coin’s ability to boost its branded jewelry business.
Jewelry trade show veterans share strategies for engaging buyers, managing your time effectively, and packing the right shoes.
This little guy’s name is Ricky and he just sold for more than $200,000 at Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction.
Though its website has been down for a week, Christie’s proceeded with its jewelry and watch auctions on May 13-14, bringing in nearly $80 million.
Despite the absence of “The Allnatt,” Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction totaled $34 million, with 90 percent of lots sold.
Lilian Raji gives advice to designers on how to make the most of great publicity opportunities.
The mining company wants to divest its 70 percent holding in the Mothae Diamond Mine in an effort to streamline its portfolio.
Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
The “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.
The annual list recognizes young professionals making an impact in jewelry retail.
Owner David Mann is heading into retirement.
While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.
Christie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.
The ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.
Retailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.
The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.
The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.