The announcement coincided with its full-year results, with growth driven by its jewelry brands.
The Couture Show Trends, According to Buyers
Three retailers weighed in on the designers and trends in which they’re investing.
Las Vegas--According to some of the industry’s top retailers, the biggest trend in fine jewelry at this year’s Couture show is that there is no novel, buzzy trend, and this is a good thing.
Instead, there’s a continuation of several trends seen at previous years’ shows, which are showing real staying power and helping the fine jewelry category to maintain a healthy, anti-fast-fashion pace.
Ylang 23’s Vice President of Business Development Alysa Teichman said that cool studs and statement earrings, meant to be worn mismatched and in multiple piercings, are still one of her store’s top priorities.
“We’re doing really amazing business right now in earrings so we’re still investing in a lot of ear stories,” she said. “We’re crazy about Irene Neuwirth’s single earrings.”
Teichman also cited Celine D’Aoust, the Belgian brand that debuted at Couture this year, as well as Sydney Evan as two other go-to designers for earrings popular with the Ylang 23 client.
Necklaces have also been selling well at the Dallas-based company.
“We love set-free diamonds,” Teichman explained. “We bought really heavy in that at Kataoka.”
Teichman was impressed with what she saw at Selim Mouzannar, whose one-of-a-kind emerald necklace that debuted at Couture she described as “just delicious,” as well as the new offerings on view at Melissa Joy Manning.
She also said she was excited to be adding Jacquie Aiche to her store’s roster.
Teichman noted that a thread that ties many of Ylang 23’s designers together is an emphasis on symbolism and meaning, which isn’t at all trendy, she explained, but extremely relevant to today’s consumer.
“We’ve been selling a lot of Foundrae’s necklaces and Andrea Fohrman’s celestial pieces and things that you can really engrave and make your own,” said Teichman, who noted that Retrouvai’s new enamel pieces also fit the bill for pieces that were either customizable to the wearer or imparted meaning through various words and symbols.
“We’re not really that interested in trends; we’re looking
The most impressive designs, in Schneider’s eyes, are impactful in a way that often defies of-the-moment trends.
“We’re not really that interested in trends; we’re looking for things that we fall in love with, that are moving to us,” he explained. “What makes something right is not necessarily measurable.”
His buying strategy is unorthodox, focusing on a selection based on design merit, rather than profitability. But through it, he’s managed to carve out a strong foothold in Portland, Seattle and beyond with Twist’s e-commerce store.
“We’re not looking for what the customers are necessarily looking for, but we look for what we really like,” Schneider admitted. “And that’s worked for us.”
Schneider found no shortage of pieces that moved him at the show.
“Sevan Bicaki’s (new collection) is something that we wait all year for,” he said. “We see him first, we save money for it and we spend it. It’s great.”
Schneider was happy to see a continued interest in color from designers, a trend that has grown over recent years.
He mentioned the “clean, bright colors” he saw from Page Sargisson, a Couture first-timer; Suzanne Kalan, who typically focuses on diamonds; and Spinelli Kilcollin, who continuously brings new color combinations into his collection.
“It used to be that precious jewelry really had to be diamonds. Now, there’s a lightness and a brightness that’s definitely showing up that’s really nice,” Schneider said.
In the Design Atelier, Schneider was impressed with Taru and Elie Top.
Of the latter he explained: “Elie Top’s work was just extraordinary and it had nothing to do with trend. The skill, the vision and the complexity really moved us. It’s so great to see something new that shows that much commitment to craftsmanship.”
Schneider’s only concern about Couture is the gap between the opportunity the Design Atelier affords young brands, and the financial responsibility that comes with procuring a regular show booth.
“The Design Atelier is fantastic because it really allows people who are emerging or small-scale (to participate). It keeps the show vital, and limiting it to three years is good,” said Schenider. “It’s the people who leave the Design Atelier and move into the salons whom I just hope can keep affording to do this.”
“Designers have incorporated pieces (into their collections) that are either convertible or have add-ons that transform a piece from casual to something more formal. You feel like you’re getting two looks in one.” -- Swoonery buyer Geraldine SalcedoE-commerce fine jewelry store Swoonery’s buyers, Sara Fadel and Geraldine Salcedo, were impressed with the staying power of trends that could easily have fizzled out.
Chokers in particular, which emerged as a major trend at the Couture show last year, were still in abundance, but with a more elevated and luxurious look.
“It’s surprising how many designers have gone into making more chokers and collars,” Salcedo said.
“Chokers have now become a new necklace category and they can be really sexy and refined,” said Fadel, noting that the upscale versions she saw at the show were appropriate for all age demographics.
Salcedo and Fadel said that Hueb and Marli stood out for their chokers, which were edgy and glamorous.
They also noted that unusual, “not your grandmother’s pearls” designs were still going strong at several of the brands they visited, including Colette.
“She’s edgy but also timeless,” said Salcedo. “I really admire her designs.”
“Modern pearls have this elegant-but-edgy look that we personally love and we want to expose our customers to that,” said Fadel.
Convertible jewelry was also a hot item at the show.
“Designers have incorporated pieces (into their collections) that are either convertible or have add-ons that transform a piece from casual to something more formal,” said Salcedo. “You feel like you’re getting two looks in one. Carol Kauffmann has a choker that becomes a bracelet.”
“I think it’s important to have such versatility in your pieces because you can go from day to night and Carol did that really phenomenally,” Fadel agreed.
Salcedo saw several strong Brazilian brands, including Yael Sonia, whom she called “architectural and playful,” the aforementioned Hueb and Carol Kauffmann, and Fernando Jorge.
Some of Fadel’s favorites were Karma El Khalil, for the way she buys rough gemstones and has them custom-cut, Nadine Ghosn for capturing a current moment in pop culture, and Akillis, who provided an update to the typical fine jewelry love story.
“They presented a new collection representing the more tumultuous nature of love,” Fadel explained. “There was a cuff that looked like a bear trap, where the design didn’t fit perfectly together because no relationship is perfectly fit together--there’s always a power struggle and this passionate dynamic.
“I fell in love with the story.”
The Latest
Looking ahead, the retailer said it sees “enormous potential” in Roberto Coin’s ability to boost its branded jewelry business.
Jewelry trade show veterans share strategies for engaging buyers, managing your time effectively, and packing the right shoes.
Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.
This little guy’s name is Ricky and he just sold for more than $200,000 at Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction.
Though its website has been down for a week, Christie’s proceeded with its jewelry and watch auctions on May 13-14, bringing in nearly $80 million.
Despite the absence of “The Allnatt,” Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction totaled $34 million, with 90 percent of lots sold.
Tradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.
Lilian Raji gives advice to designers on how to make the most of great publicity opportunities.
The mining company wants to divest its 70 percent holding in the Mothae Diamond Mine in an effort to streamline its portfolio.
Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
The “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.
Owner David Mann is heading into retirement.
While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.
The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”
Christie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.
The ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.
Retailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.
The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.
The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.
The late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.
Three fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.
Kimberly Adams Russell is taking over the role from her father, David Adams, marking the third generation to hold the title.
As a token of womanhood, this necklace depicts when Venus was born from the sea.
The deal gives the retailer control over the distribution of Roberto Coin jewelry in the U.S., Canada, Caribbean, and Central America.
Show your mother some love with a piece of fine jewelry.
The company’s Easton location will remain open.