The necklace is featured in the brand’s “Rebel Heart” campaign starring Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo.
Santo by Zani’s Inspired New Range of Jewelry
Jewelry designer Zani Gugelmann is putting a modern spin on a Victorian design concept.
New York--Santo by Zani jewelry designer Zani Gugelmann is putting a modern spin on a Victorian design concept.
Officially launched at Bergdorf Goodman last November, Santo by Zani comprises a growing range of jewelry based on Masonic orbs.
Worn in Victorian times and into the early 20th century, Masonic orb pendants consisted of a multi-paneled sphere that, when unhinged, unfold into the shape of a cross engraved with Masonic symbols.
Instead of symbols, Gugelmann’s 18-karat gold versions are decorated with saturated shades of enamel, diamonds and colored gemstones. Unfolded, each pendant assumes the shape of either a cross, a six-pointed “Star of Creation,” a four-pointed “shield” or a flower.
The orb collection was in development for two years prior to its Bergdorf launch and is now being sold in a Moda Operandi trunk show as well as on the Santo by Zani website.
The line begins retailing at $750 for a pair of folded studs and runs upward of $16,000 for certain large orb pendants. The brand offers customization by special order.
National Jeweler chatted with Gugelmann about her technical designs, love of surprises and what’s next for her brand.
National Jeweler: How did you come to work in jewelry design?
Zani Gugelmann: I learned advanced classical jewelry making techniques at Cecelia Bauer in New York City. I studied there in 1997, and then again in 2007.
Being able to make jewelry and understand the complexities of the process from start to finish allows one to create and design pieces that one could not have even previously imagined.
NJ: The Santo by Zani folding technique must have taken quite a bit of trial and error to perfect. Can you explain what that design process was like?
ZG: The folding technique certainly took trial and error. Each and every piece of my collection requires extreme precision--both in 3D modeling and hand crafting. Each piece is assembled with hinges, links and clasps, allowing for movement and complete transformation. The jewelry can be worn two ways--open or closed, personal or exposed to the world.
Elements of curiosity, excitement and the notion of a child-like surprise have inspired and driven me to make this collection.
NJ: What was your inspiration behind the folding concept?
ZG: The inspiration behind the folding concept is a mixture of intricate craft and the element of wonder and metamorphosis.
I
NJ: Who is the Santo by Zani woman? How would you describe her?
ZG: The Santo by Zani woman, or man, is truly a lover of jewelry first and foremost. I imagine he or she highly regards and respects innovative design as well as traditional jewelry craft and luxurious raw materials. These pieces are colorful and mysteriously exciting. An intimacy between the wearer and physical piece develops--the jewelry will transform with you, from day to night, winter to spring, and from generation to generation.
NJ: What’s next for your brand, and in what kind of stores do you think it would be a great fit?
ZG: There are lots of surprises in the works! I can’t spill my secrets quite yet, but stay tuned for an exciting launch.
In terms of stores, what’s most important to me is a boutique that truly understands the art of jewelry, inside and out.
NJ: How often will you be releasing new pieces and/or collections?
ZG: My pieces are more intricate and technical than most people imagine. Personally, quality is crucial to me, especially since many of the pieces are designed to be modern day heirlooms. When I feel they are perfect, they are released. New pieces are always in the works; they take approximately three months to perfect.
NJ: Do you have a favorite piece you’ve created or one that you never take off?
ZG: I have to admit I don’t have a favorite piece. I wear my pieces closed so it all depends on what I want to hold close to my heart or show and expose to people.
Sometimes I feel like wearing color, so I wear one of my pieces with enamel. Other times I like wearing my pieces that have personal inscriptions inside, making me very sentimental.
The Latest
The two organizations will host a joint event, “Converge,” in September 2025.
Big changes appear to be on the horizon for the diamond miner and its parent company, Anglo American.
With Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.
Padis succeeds Lisa Bridge, marking the first time the organization has had two women board presidents in a row.
Jesse Cole, founder of Fans First Entertainment, shared the “five Es” of building a fan base during his AGS Conclave keynote.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar "John Mayer" was celebrated at a star-studded party in LA last week.
For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.
The announcement came as the company reported a 23 percent drop in production in Q1.
The three-time Pro Bowler continues to partner with the retailer, donating to a Detroit nonprofit and giving watches to fans.
A double-digit drop in the number of in-store crimes was offset by a jump in off-premises attacks, JSA’s 2023 crime report shows.
Inspired by the Roman goddess of love, the designer looked to the sea for her new collection.
The luxury titan posted declining sales, weighed down by Gucci’s poor performance.
The selected nine organizations have outlined their plans for the funds.
The mining company’s Diavik Diamond Mine lost four employees in a plane crash in January.
The crown introduced a dozen timepieces in Geneva, including a heavy metal version of its deep-sea divers’ watch.
Emmanuel Raheb recommends digging into demographic data, customizing your store’s communications, and retargeting ahead of May 12.
Located in the town of Queensbury, it features a dedicated bridal section and a Gabriel & Co. store-in-store.
A 203-carat diamond from the alluvial mine in Angola achieved the highest price.
Ruser was known for his figural jewelry with freshwater pearls and for his celebrity clientele.
The “Rebel Heart” campaign embodies rebellion, romance, and sensuality, the brand said.
Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff shares the standout moments from the education sessions she attended in Austin last week.
The overhaul includes a new logo and enhanced digital marketplace.
The money will go toward supporting ongoing research and aftercare programs for childhood cancer survivors.
A new addition to the “Heirloom” collection, this one-of-a-kind piece features 32 custom-cut gemstones.
Last month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.
The move will allow the manufacturing company to offer a more “diverse and comprehensive” range of products.