SourcingMay 14, 2024
Anglo American Confirms It Is Looking to Sell De Beers The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”
TrendsAug 11, 2016
The History Behind … Georgian mourning jewelry
This month, National Jeweler delves into the when, where and why of mourning jewelry worn between roughly 1714 and 1830.
“I was amazed by it,” says the Michigan-based antique jewelry dealer and collector, recalling the powerful imagery of the piece, created in memory of a child who died at the age of 2, that steered her into buying and selling the category.
A quarter of a century later, Dailey, who declines the title of “expert” when it comes to mourning jewelry and instead refers to herself as an “enthusiastic collector with much to learn,” shared her knowledge for National Jeweler’s The History Behind.
This month’s feature focuses on mourning jewelry from the Georgian period, the era when King George I through George IV ruled England, from 1714 to 1830.
What is mourning jewelry? To understand the type of mourning jewelry worn during the Georgian period, one must first take a step back and look at the pieces worn prior to the mid-1600s.
Dailey says in that time, memento mori jewelry largely was donned to remind the wearer that they, too, would die one day; that life is transient and fleeting. (Memento mori is a Latin phrase that means “Remember that you will die.”)
“There was so much death and dying” in those days, Dailey observes. “Mothers lost children … there were so many diseases. Death was something that was on their minds.”
The shift in mourning jewelry began around 1649 with the execution of King Charles I of England.
Dailey says many royalists wanted to show their support sympathy for the fallen king. They commissioned their jewelers to make pieces of faced Stuart crystal (the king was of the House of Stuart) with a portrait of the king underneath.
This began a trend among the wealthy aristocracy to have mourning pieces commissioned to remember their own lost loved ones, marking a shift from memento mori--pieces that were a reflection of mortality and the transient nature of life on earth--to mourning jewelry, which focuses on remembrance, grief, comfort and consolation.
What materials were used for these pieces? Some of the materials used to make Georgian era mourning
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
jewelry were gold, along with silver and base metals, and rock crystal. Very rarely, diamonds were used.
Some of the scenes included in mourning pieces were painted on copper, vellum (a parchment made from animal skin), and ivory, trade in which now is severely restricted in the United States.
Human hair also was utilized, to paint the scenes and as part of the design.
How much is Georgian-era mourning jewelry worth today? Prices for pieces from this period range from $300 or $400 for a small locket to the thousands for larger, more elaborate pieces commissioned by the wealthier individuals of the day.
How can a retailer add this category to their antique jewelry offerings? Dailey said quality pieces from the Georgian era are fairly scarce. “You are going to have to hunt for them, just like I do,” she says.
Dealers who work in this category include Dailey, Samuel Gassman of E. Foxe Harrell in New York and Darlene Boyard.
No matter from whom a retailer chooses to source their Georgian mourning jewelry, Dailey offers this piece of advice: work with a reputable dealer who stands behind whatever they sell.
More on Trends
The Latest
AuctionsMay 14, 2024
2 Huge Yellow Diamonds Are Heading to AuctionChristie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.
MajorsMay 14, 2024
Platinum Born Taps ‘Born Leaders’ for New CampaignThe ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.
GradingMay 14, 2024
Instappraise Adds Trifold Brochure to Appraisal OfferingsRetailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.
Weekly QuizMay 09, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Lab-GrownMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.
Brought to you by
From Registration to Return: 10 Tips to Protect You Before, During and After a TradeshowTradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | HindmanThe late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest WinnersThree fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.
IndependentsMay 10, 2024
Frank Adams Jewelers Names New CEOKimberly Adams Russell is taking over the role from her father, David Adams, marking the third generation to hold the title.
CollectionsMay 10, 2024
Piece of the Week: Carina Hardy’s ‘Birth of Venus’ NecklaceAs a token of womanhood, this necklace depicts when Venus was born from the sea.
MajorsMay 09, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Pays $130M for Roberto Coin Inc.The deal gives the retailer control over the distribution of Roberto Coin jewelry in the U.S., Canada, Caribbean, and Central America.
IndependentsMay 09, 2024
Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry to Close Salisbury StoreThe company’s Easton location will remain open.
MajorsMay 09, 2024
JBT Elects New ChairmanBrian D. Fleming of Carla Corporation was elected to serve a one-year term in the role.
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2024
Fusing Past and Present at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch ShowSponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show
EditorsMay 07, 2024
Q&A: Author Vikki Tobak on the ‘Ice-Cold’ ExhibitionTobak, author of “Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History,” shares how the exhibition came to be, and the pieces people may be surprised to see.
EditorsMay 07, 2024
10 On-Theme Looks from the 2024 Met GalaStars adorned themselves in emeralds, platinum, and myriad bird motifs, writes Associate Editor Natalie Francisco.
IndependentsMay 07, 2024
112-Year-Old New Orleans Business Popping Up in Aspen M.S. Rau is set to open a seasonal gallery in the high-end resort town early next month.
MajorsMay 07, 2024
Richemont Acquires Italian Jeweler VhernierThe branded jewelry market is thriving, said Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert.
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
These ‘Luminaries’ Are Set to Light Up CoutureThe six designers, all participants in the show’s Diversity Action Council mentorship program, will exhibit in Salon 634.
AuctionsMay 07, 2024
Sotheby’s to Auction Sylvester Stallone’s WatchesThe highlight of his collection is the coveted Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, which could sell for up to $5 million.
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
Phillip Gavriel Pays Tribute to Venice With New CollectionThe “Venetian Link” series modernizes the classic Veneziana box chain in its bracelets and necklaces.
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2024
JA Now Accepting Applications for New Bench Jeweler ScholarshipThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship will provide tuition assistance to two low-income students.
Policies & IssuesMay 06, 2024
Rolex Files Objection to Hallmark’s New Trademark ApplicationThe Swiss watchmaker said the company’s plans to use a new version of the Hallmark crown on jewelry would confuse consumers.
EditorsMay 06, 2024
Q&A: 8 Questions With Anglo American’s Benny Oeyen The executive talked about the importance of self-purchasers and how fuel cell electric vehicles are going to fuel demand for platinum.
MajorsMay 06, 2024
Malabar Gold & Diamonds Opens 4th U.S. ShowroomThe Indian jeweler’s new store in Naperville, Illinois marks its 350th location, part of its ongoing global expansion plans.
