Editors

3 Pieces with Wallace Chan

EditorsNov 22, 2016

3 Pieces with Wallace Chan

Today’s greatest living jeweler straddles the line between fine art and high jewelry.

Untitled-1.jpg

When the TEFAF Art Fair came to New York this fall, it was the city’s first opportunity to experience the work of Wallace Chan in person.

Chan is a visionary who could have worked in a number of mediums, but life surreptitiously put him on the path of jewelry; he started work as a gem carver in Hong Kong, first creating in malachite and lapis, then moving on to more translucent stones like emeralds, rubies and diamonds.

Chan’s path to success was slow and deliberate, involving the dedicated study and acquisition of skills that created the foundation Chan needed to invent his own techniques. Despite this emphasis on craft, and the many formative years Chan spent laboring in carving, he is not afraid of the digital world; rather, he embraces its opportunities and its reach.

In a panel conducted at TEFAF prior to the day I interviewed Chan, he urged the audience not to think of digital and physical methods as opposing forces, but as members of a relationship: two integral ways of approaching and creating art.

“I am sure that the space where the two worlds overlap lies the future of creativity,” Chan said.

It is this sort of embrace of the new and unknown that has made Chan the most riveting and imaginative jeweler of our era.

Below, Chan shares the creation stories of the three pieces of jewelry most meaningful to his career. 


Wallace Chan’s Wallace Cut Stone, smoky quartz

Wallace Chan:
This is the Wallace Cut. This was my invention in 1987. What I did was I only cut one face in the back of the stone, but then it became four more faces because of precise calculation of the angles and reflections through the facets.

This particular one is from the late 1980’s. I did about six of these, but then I stopped because I didn’t want to copy myself anymore.

I had to think about opposites when I did the carving. Deep became shallow, left became right and top became bottom.

I had to invent my own tools, so I went to a factory to learn for six months as an apprentice, learning about the mechanics. Finally I thought I could transform a dental drill into the carving knife, but the dental drill was spinning 36,000 times per minute so once it touches the stone’s surface the stone cracks. So I had to put the stone beneath water to carve.

At

the very beginning, after I carved one stroke I had to take it out from the water, dry it and check to see if it was OK, then put it back for the next stroke. It was a very long, slow process in the beginning. But then, as I began to become familiar with the technique, it was only my conscious mind working and my heart, my tools and the stone had all become one. By that time I could be carving underneath water for two to three minutes without checking and the stone would come out perfect.
“When you are able to empty yourself, you have the space for a lot of wonders to happen.”
It’s a smoky quartz. It’s only with a transparent stone that you can do the Wallace Cut. The first cut I do is the nose of the goddess.

The Wallace Cut was a breakthrough to me. At first I was just carving cameos intaglio, and it was quite traditional. Soon I was getting tired of this. One day I went to this photography exhibition and I saw the photography technique of double exposure--one face but repeatedly appearing in the same image. I started to wonder whether I could apply that to carving, but I didn’t have the skills yet so the idea stayed in the back of my mind.

After some years of learning diamond cutting and gemstone cutting, I realized that I could achieve what I saw at the exhibition. I started experimenting, and it became my major breakthrough.
I spent two years practicing the carving, then six months to learn about the mechanism so I could invent my own tool.

At the factory, my seniors were not willing to teach me a lot unless I would buy them afternoon tea, coffee and pineapple buns that you find in Hong Kong, so I had to bribe them with this to speed up the process of learning what I needed to invent the tools.

The image you see inside the stone is called Horae, and she is the goddess of seasons. She manages the four seasons and change and growth on Earth, so I carved that because at one point I was very interested in these Western mythologies.


Wallace Chan’s “Secret Abyss” titanium pedant with rutilated quartz, tourmaline, emerald and amethyst

WC:
From concept to creation, it took 10 years to complete the Secret Abyss. I drilled a hole on this rutilated quartz and a hole underneath this 10-carat yellow diamond, but it’s only 6.5 mm. That is only as big as this 1-carat diamond carat underneath. I used my own self invented tools to go inside, hollow it out, polish it and make a space of 43 mm. Then I set 1,111 emeralds inside.
“Because I’m imperfect, that’s why I pursue perfection.”
This is a motif of the Chinese lucky cloud. At first I thought of using crystal, but then I thought it would be too clear and people would think I used glass and kind of lasered it back, making a trick out of that, so I used rutilated quartz to emphasize that it is one piece and I couldn’t have opened it and put it back together.

You can see how the chain is connected to the pendant. Normally you would drill a hole, but I didn’t want to ruin the perfection of the pendant so I calculated the tension and the weight and just clipped it on.
It’s quite daring because if you put too much force the pendant will break, and if you don’t have enough force, then it will fall.

In English we named it “Secret Abyss,” but in Chinese it means “true emptiness” and wonderful existence.” My philosophy is that when you are able to empty yourself, you have the space for a lot of wonders to happen and your inspiration becomes limitless.

I broke 20 or 30 pieces of crystal before I arrived at this one.


Wallace Chan’s “A Tale of Two Dragons” brooches, white jade, titanium, ruby, emerald, amethyst and diamond pave

WC: I saw a white jade belt buckle in an auction a few years ago from Shang dynasty.

I bought it and cut it into half and used titanium to make the mirror images, so it’s the imitation of itself.

It’s a highlight at TEFAF; it’s never been exhibited anywhere else. It’s significant to me because when I first started as a carver I really envied the master who could make these white jade carvings. At the time, I wasn’t very skilled so I couldn’t make them, only envy them. When I found this I felt the white jade was calling out to me, asking me to bring it home so I could make something out of it. That’s why I answered the calling.

They were completed this year in September. I was still refining them before I brought them here.

Because I’m imperfect, that’s why I pursue perfection. I still have lots of dreams.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Claire’s storefront
MajorsMar 18, 2024
Claire’s to Launch in 4,400 Walgreens Stores

The retailer is expanding its footprint via retail partnerships, previously inking deals with Kohl’s and Macy’s.

Jewelers of America logo
MajorsMar 18, 2024
JA Partners with eBay on New Member Benefit

Members will now have access to “eBay Concierge,” a white-glove dedicated customer service team.

The Jewelry Symposium logo
Events & AwardsMar 18, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Launches Inaugural Scholarship

The deadline to apply is March 29.

BTYB-HoBrothers-updated.png
Brought to you by
The Scalable, Professional, and Effortless Solution for High-Demand Custom Jewelry Retailers

Ho Brothers offers scalable solutions for the future of custom jewelry.

Brilliant Earth x Logan Hollowell Bloom earrings
FinancialsMar 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth Posts Record Sales, Orders in 2023

CEO Beth Gerstein spoke about the growing appeal of its non-bridal fine jewelry and its expansion plans on its recent earnings call.

Weekly QuizMar 14, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
Arkansas crater of diamonds eclipse tickets
SourcingMar 15, 2024
Crater of Diamonds State Park Selling Eclipse Tickets

Ticketholders can dig for diamonds in the Arkansas park ahead of the eclipse viewing event on April 8.

Lotus Tiara
CollectionsMar 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: The Lotus Tiara

The versatile jewel pairs ancient Egyptian inspiration with a modern design.

GIA id100
Brought to you by
Full Disclosure at Your Fingertips

Distinguishing natural diamonds from laboratory-grown stones – now more available than ever – has been difficult for jewelers. Until now.

Stock image of rough diamonds mined by De Beers
SourcingMar 14, 2024
De Beers Says Retailers Are ‘Restocking Conservatively’

The company’s rough sales improved for the third sales cycle in a row.

Gemological Institute of America logo
GradingMar 14, 2024
GIA Has a New Scholarship for High School Students in San Diego

The spring application window closes on March 31.

15.51-Carat Yellow Diamond
AuctionsMar 14, 2024
Phillips Hong Kong to Auction 15.51-Carat Yellow Diamond

It’s estimated to sell for up to $1.3 million at the upcoming sale on March 28.

Hedda Schupak
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2024
WJA Foundation Establishes Scholarship in Hedda Schupak’s Honor

It aims to support aspiring journalists, media professionals, content creators, and communicators.

Slick Rick
Events & AwardsMar 13, 2024
A Celebration of Hip-Hop Jewelry Is Coming to AMNH

“Ice Cold: An Exhibition of Hip-Hop Jewelry” will open at the New York City museum on May 9.

Dave Meleski
MajorsMar 13, 2024
Richline’s Dave Meleski Takes Over as RJC Chair

He succeeds David Bouffard, who is leaving Signet and the RJC next month.

Zachary’s Jewelers Mother’s Day kids jewelry contest
IndependentsMar 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Is Holding a Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest for Kids

Three winners will have their jewelry sketches turned into a real piece of jewelry in time for the holiday.

Boucheron Power of Couture
CollectionsMar 13, 2024
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Pays Homage to Ceremony, History

“Power of Couture” recalls Frédéric Boucheron’s love of fabric using diamonds and rock crystal.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
AuctionsMar 12, 2024
Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsMar 12, 2024
The PR Adviser: Closing Sales and Following Up

Lilian Raji offers advice to a business owner who is having trouble crossing the finish line with customers.

Steve Webb
MajorsMar 12, 2024
Steve Webb Named EVP of The Gordon Company

He brings 30 years of retail store management experience to the role.

Diamonds Do Good Awards logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2024
DDG to Honor 3 Industry Veterans in Vegas

At its annual gala, Diamonds Do Good will present awards to GIA, London Jewelers, and Lisa Bridge.

2024 Gem Awards audience
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2024
Gem Awards Highlight the Power of Retail, Community

The 2024 winners expressed gratitude to their teams, industry colleagues, and those who turn jewelry dreams into reality.

Jewelry from designers Jean Prounis, Marla Aaron, and Marie Lichtenberg
CollectionsMar 08, 2024
Pieces of the Week: Gem Award for Jewelry Design Nominees

They are Marla Aaron, Marie Lichtenberg, and Jean Prounis.

Peter Montalbano
Events & AwardsMar 08, 2024
Peter Montalbano to Receive JSA Industry Service Award

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance will honor the industry veteran at its upcoming annual luncheon.

Pomellato International Women’s Day video campaign
Policies & IssuesMar 08, 2024
Pomellato’s 2024 IWD Video Calls for an End to Violence Against Women

The annual video stars Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli alongside Jane Fonda and other celebrities and activists.

970x250.jpg
Supplier BulletinMar 07, 2024
Empower Your Team with IGI’s Comprehensive Educational Services

Sponsored by IGI

Eddie Grove
IndependentsMar 07, 2024
‘Old-School’ Jewelry Salesman Eddie Grove Dies at 81

The Pennsylvania native, who sold for Gumuchian and others, is remembered for being kind and outgoing.

A selection of engagement rings
TrendsMar 07, 2024
5 Engagement Ring Trends for 2024

From three-stone rings to fancy shapes, experts weigh in on what consumers could be looking for this year.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy