Editors

The importance of being honest

EditorsOct 07, 2014

The importance of being honest

Last week another laboratory, EGL Platinum, issued a statement speaking out against the over-grading of diamonds while seeking to separate themselves from the EGL labs associated with this practice, a statement issued in the wake of the Rapaport Group’s move to quit listing diamonds graded by any EGL lab on RapNet.


EGL Platinum is not the first EGL-branded lab to speak out on this issue; EGL USA and EGL South Africa (EGL SA) issued similar statements several weeks ago when the Rapaport Group first announced its decision.

I see the labs’ point; over-grading by some shouldn’t overshadow the work of every lab with the initials EGL, and, to be fair, it seems the industry’s diamond trading platforms agree. Polygon, for example, made a decision to quit listing diamonds from EGL International but not EGL USA.

And so I called Martin Rapaport, chairman of the Rapaport Group, last week with one question on my mind: Would he consider relaxing the RapNet ban to allow for EGL reports from labs with a better track record? The short answer is no. He said consumers don’t understand the difference between the various EGL brands, and EGL labs that don’t want to be associated with over-grading need to change their names.

“If you want to be a legitimate laboratory you cannot use the same brand name” as a lab that’s over-grading, Martin Rapaport said. “Consumers … are not going to understand the difference between a good EGL and a bad EGL. Good EGLs need to change their name so they are not confused with bad EGLs.”

During the course of the conversation, I asked Rapaport about a rumor I’d heard recently that his group plans to issue grading reports in the near future. I mentioned that some had speculated that, perhaps, this was part of the reason for his decision to quit listing all EGL-graded diamonds.

He categorically denied that this has anything to do with why he chose to stop listing all EGL-graded diamonds. He did it to make a statement about over-grading and to separate his marketplace from marketplaces in which diamonds are misrepresented.  “I am not worried about what people say (about my intentions),” he told me. “I am worried our industry is supporting a bunch of liars and cheaters who defraud consumers. This industry isn’t fighting against people who are lying to consumers.”

(As for the grading report rumors, he said Rapaport Group, which has offered a range of gemological services since 2007 but never grading reports, likely will begin issuing grading reports for investment-grade diamonds only next year, but offered little detail on the program. “We will give free and fair announcement before we do something,” he said.)

During our conversation last week, Rapaport also told me that he thinks I, along with the rest of the trade press and industry organizations like the WFDB, JA, AGS and JVC, need to quit being neutral on the topic of over-graded diamonds and speak out against labs that are “lying to consumers.”

So, in writing this today, I would like to take a cue from a father of many (Martin Rapaport) and pass along a little (more) wisdom from a dad to two, my own father. It is one of my favorites from him, along with “do what you love and the money will come.”

His advice: those who are honest always come out ahead.

If you own a store, don’t sell diamonds to your customers with grading reports from any lab that you feel overstates the quality of the stones they grade, even if the store, or stores, down the street are doing it. A recent InStore column by Terry Chandler (who also calls upon a parent’s wisdom) advises the same.

In the short term, sales might be lost but, in the long term, larger headaches will be avoided. Case in point, the current consumer-brought lawsuits against Genesis Diamonds in Tennessee. Win or lose, do you really want to spend your store’s time and resources defending yourself in court?

You don’t have to take just my word for it. Listen to the advice of a fellow jeweler, Tom Daube, owner of Washington Diamond in Falls Church, Va.

Long before the current furor erupted, Daube added a page to his website explaining to customers why he has opted not to sell diamonds graded by any EGL lab. This page, he told me, has been up for nearly 10 years now.

When I found the web page, I called Daube to speak with him about his stance on EGL. One of my main questions was, has he lost sales to jewelers who sell over-graded diamonds? The answer was yes, but, “We have a very highly educated clientele and they respect our ethics,” Daube told me.

And, perhaps more importantly, “I sleep well at night,” he says. “I know I’ve done the right thing for my customers.”
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Jacquie Aiche’s Starry Galaxy Inlay Necklace
CollectionsApr 26, 2024
Piece of the Week: Jacquie Aiche’s Starry Galaxy Necklace

The necklace is featured in the brand’s “Rebel Heart” campaign starring Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo.

Gemological Institute of America headquarters
Events & AwardsApr 26, 2024
AGS Conclave and GIA Symposium Are Converging

The two organizations will host a joint event, “Converge,” in September 2025.

De Beers Venetia diamond mine in South Africa
SourcingApr 26, 2024
Anglo American Reportedly Shopping De Beers as BHP Eyes Anglo

Big changes appear to be on the horizon for the diamond miner and its parent company, Anglo American.

1-(3.18).JPG
Brought to you by
The Blueprint for Success in Scalable, Personalized Jewelry Retail

With Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.

Lisa Bridge and Alexis Padis at AGS Conclave 2024
Events & AwardsApr 25, 2024
Alexis Padis Takes Over as AGS Board President

Padis succeeds Lisa Bridge, marking the first time the organization has had two women board presidents in a row.

Weekly QuizApr 26, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Take the Quiz
John Mayer Audemars Piguet
WatchesApr 25, 2024
Audemars Piguet and John Mayer Partner on Limited Edition Watch

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar "John Mayer" was celebrated at a star-studded party in LA last week.

Stock image of rough diamonds mined by De Beers
SourcingApr 25, 2024
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2024

The announcement came as the company reported a 23 percent drop in production in Q1.

Jewelers of America Fly In Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your Business

For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.

Jared Goff Presents Jared Jewelers’ Donation to Give Merit
MajorsApr 25, 2024
Detroit Lions’ QB Jared Goff Keeps Going to Jared

The three-time Pro Bowler continues to partner with the retailer, donating to a Detroit nonprofit and giving watches to fans.

Stock image of police crime scene tape
CrimeApr 24, 2024
Jewelry Crime Declines Significantly, But Dollar Losses Remain High

A double-digit drop in the number of in-store crimes was offset by a jump in off-premises attacks, JSA’s 2023 crime report shows.

Kirsty Hume models Pippa Small Venus collection
CollectionsApr 24, 2024
Pippa Small Announces ‘Venus’ Collection

Inspired by the Roman goddess of love, the designer looked to the sea for her new collection.

Pomellato Pom Pom Dot necklaces
FinancialsApr 24, 2024
Kering’s Jewelry Brands a Bright Spot in Tough Q1

The luxury titan posted declining sales, weighed down by Gucci’s poor performance.

JCK Industry Fund Logo
Events & AwardsApr 24, 2024
JCK Industry Fund Announces 2024 Grant Recipients

The selected nine organizations have outlined their plans for the funds.

Aerial shot of the Diavik Diamond Mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories
SourcingApr 24, 2024
Rio Tinto’s Q1 Production Drops Amid Pause to Honor Lost Colleagues

The mining company’s Diavik Diamond Mine lost four employees in a plane crash in January.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea in 18-karat yellow gold
WatchesApr 24, 2024
These Are Rolex’s New Watches for 2024

The crown introduced a dozen timepieces in Geneva, including a heavy metal version of its deep-sea divers’ watch.

National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsApr 23, 2024
The Smart Lab: Advanced Email Marketing Strategies for Mother’s Day

Emmanuel Raheb recommends digging into demographic data, customizing your store’s communications, and retargeting ahead of May 12.

Hannoush Jewelers Queensbury NY location
IndependentsApr 23, 2024
Hannoush Jewelers Opens New Store in New York

Located in the town of Queensbury, it features a dedicated bridal section and a Gabriel & Co. store-in-store.

203-carat, 116-carat, and 42-carat diamond
SourcingApr 23, 2024
Lucapa Sells 3 Diamonds for $10.5M in First Lulo Tender of 2024

A 203-carat diamond from the alluvial mine in Angola achieved the highest price.

William Ruser: The Jeweler Who Charmed Hollywood book cover
GradingApr 23, 2024
GIA Has a New Book About William Ruser

Ruser was known for his figural jewelry with freshwater pearls and for his celebrity clientele.

Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo modeling Jacquie Aiche’s Rebel Heart collection
CollectionsApr 22, 2024
Jacquie Aiche’s New Campaign Stars Adam Levine, Behati Prinsloo

The “Rebel Heart” campaign embodies rebellion, romance, and sensuality, the brand said.

Virtual Diamond Boutique
SourcingApr 22, 2024
Virtual Diamond Boutique Rebrands as ‘VDB’

The overhaul includes a new logo and enhanced digital marketplace.

Signet Jewelers employees and St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital
MajorsApr 22, 2024
Signet Raises Nearly $9M for St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital

The money will go toward supporting ongoing research and aftercare programs for childhood cancer survivors.

Retrouvaí’s Treasure Necklace
CollectionsApr 19, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Treasure Necklace

A new addition to the “Heirloom” collection, this one-of-a-kind piece features 32 custom-cut gemstones.

Stock image crime handcuffs
CrimeApr 19, 2024
Grand Jury to Hear Case Against Jeweler Charged in Fatal Shove Following IJO Show

Last month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.

China Pearl collage
MajorsApr 19, 2024
Unique Designs Acquires China Pearl

The move will allow the manufacturing company to offer a more “diverse and comprehensive” range of products.

Printed and digital AGS Ideal grading reports
GradingApr 19, 2024
AGS Ideal Report Now Available in Printed Form

From now through mid-May, GIA will be offering the reports at a 50 percent discount.

Stock image of a polished diamond in tweezers
SourcingApr 18, 2024
Diamond Trade Remains Cautious Amid Economic Uncertainty

De Beers’ rough diamond sales were down 18 percent year-over-year in its latest round of sales.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy