The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.
Gemstone ‘Secrets’ Book Gets an Update
The second edition of gemologist Richard Wise’s best-selling Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones is out today.

Lenox, Mass.--The colored gemstone market is dependent on a number of factors, and fluctuations in supply and demand mean that a lot can change in a decade’s time.
For this reason, one author has given his book on the market an update.
The second edition of gem expert Richard Wise’s Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones, covering the criteria used by professionals to judge the quality and value of gemstones, is out now.
Brunswick House Press first published the book in 2003, and it became a best-seller. Wise has been traveling and researching since then, slowly compiling new information and updates for the next copy of the book.
“A number of things have changed in the gem world in the 14 years (since),” Wise told National Jeweler. “In a sense, the principles of connoisseurship and quality are immutable, right? They don’t change. On the other hand, what’s available in the market has changed.”
For example, the supply of rubies has changed greatly since he wrote the last book. At that time, Myanmar was the only real source. Now Madagascar has come online and is a major player in the trade, he said.
What’s more, only some of the Madagascar rubies look like Burmese rubies, which means that the guide to evaluating the gem needed to be updated to differentiate between the types, as well as the types from a few other sources that have since emerged.
He said that spinel has always been a “dealer’s stone”--they’ve been trying to sell it to people for years and not been able to do it.
“That all changed when Mahenge [Tanzania] came online, and the cobalt blues were discovered in North Vietnam. Now, all of a sudden, we have a 1,200 percent increase in the price of blue and pink and red spinels,” he said.
Wise added that the paradigm also has shifted on red spinel, as new sources produced stones that look less like rubies, which the market was familiar with, and have a greater saturation of color.
Additions also include sections on pearls--both natural nacreous pearls and conch pearls--which have seen a major resurgence since the last book was published, and a
Other stones added are moonstone, sunstone, colorless diamonds, Golconda or Type IIa diamonds, demantoid garnet, peridot and violet diamonds.
There also are five new introductory essays, including from the Gemological Institute of America’s Vincent Pardieu, and more than 100 new photographs.
Wise, who has visited most of the major and many of the minor gem-producing areas of the world, also authored The French Blue, in addition to having written many articles for publications like GIA’s Gems & Gemology, Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and Colored Stone magazine.
The 404-page Secrets of the Gem Trade is $99.95, available at Amazon, Barnes & Noble and most other major book retailers.
More information about the guide also can be found on SecretsofTheGemTrade.com.
The Latest

From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.

Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Mildred Marcano Abrams and Yael Reinhold join the podcast to talk community connections, holiday plans, and preserving Reinhold’s legacy.


“Art Deco” fuses ancestral techniques, rare materials, and modern perspectives as a tribute to the optimism and curiosity of the movement.

The jeweler’s newest store is inside Arkansas’ Saracen Casino Resort.

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

The watch company will design, manufacture, and distribute Kate Spade New York watches.

The higher tax is set to go into effect in August and will apply to loose polished diamonds as well as precious and base metals jewelry.

The “Enchanted Garden” series features a cherry, lemon, and pear that each hold a little secret inside.

It’s located in Tysons Galleria, an upscale shopping center in the Washington, D.C., metro area.

The show, recently acquired by Rockview Management Group, will be held at New York City’s Javits Center from Aug. 2-4.

Smith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.

Former Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.

The 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.

The new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.

The collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.

She will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.

Organizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.

Woodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.

A WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.

The founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Valeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.

The diamond mine, which opened nearly 30 years ago in Canada’s Northwest Territories, is expected to shut down by mid-August.

Jewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.
























