Auctions

The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M

AuctionsApr 03, 2017

The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M

The coveted, black-dialed “Bao Dai” returns to auction next month in Geneva and could become the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

20170403_Rolex-Bao-Dai.jpg
The Rolex “Bao Dai” is one of only three Rolexes with a black dial and diamond markers and is the only one with the markers at the even hours. The last emperor of Vietnam, the Bao Dai, bought the watch in Geneva in 1954.

Geneva--A rare Rolex with a historically significant backstory could become the most expensive watch from the brand ever sold at auction when it goes under the hammer in Geneva next month.

The 35 mm reference 6062 “Bao Dai” Rolex made its debut at Baselworld in 1950, and the watch lays claims to its fair share of “onlys”--it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model ever made by Rolex, featuring day, date, month and moonphase indications.

And, like any great piece of jewelry or watch that’s bound to stir up aggressive bidding at auction, the Bao Dai also has a fantastic back story.


Another shot of the Bao Dai shows more of the watch’s gold bracelet.The timepiece belonged to Nguyen Phuc Vinh Thuy, the last emperor of Vietnam who was granted the title of Bao Dai (Keeper of Greatness) when he ascended to the throne in 1925 at the age of 12.

The Bao Dai bought this Rolex in Geneva in 1954 when he was in town attending the Geneva Conference, the meeting that resulted in the Geneva Accords, which brought an end to the first Indochina War.

Paul Boutros, the head of Americas and senior vice president for Bacs & Russo, said they do not know how much the Bao Dai originally paid for this watch, as it was never sold commercially or appeared in catalogs.

(Bacs & Russo runs the watch department at Phillips; well-known watch auctioneer Aurel Bacs and his wife, watch specialist Livia Russo, re-established the department for the auction house in 2014.)

The Bao Dai died in 1997, and Boutros said that in 2002, the emperor’s family consigned the watch and it sold for $235,000 at Phillips, making it then the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

The man who bought it in 2002 sold it to a private collector, and it is this collector who is bringing the watch back to Phillips for a second sale, Boutros said.

“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity.” --Paul Boutros, Bacs & Russo
While the watch auctioneer gives a pre-sale estimate of more than $1.5 million, watch collector Edmond Saran
went a step further on his website, Le Monde Edmond, writing that the Bao Dai Rolex will sell for “a heck of a lot more” than $1.5 million and that it will, in fact, break the record for the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

That record is currently held by the Rolex reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” that Phillips sold for $2.5 million in Hong Kong last November.

When asked if he agreed with this estimate, Boutros said that while the auction house has published its estimate at more than $1.5 million, the Bao Dai Rolex “has to be considered as a serious contender to achieve a record-breaking price.”

He said like collectible cars and contemporary art, the market for collectible watches has grown at a “healthy pace” since the last time the watch was sold, in the early 2000s, hence the reason why a watch that sold for less than $300,000 fifteen years ago can be expected to go for more than $2.5 million today.

“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity,” Boutros said.  

Phillips is auctioning off the Bao Dai, along with a number of other vintage Rolexes, at Geneva’s Hôtel La Réserve on May 13 and 14, holding the sale in association with Bacs & Russo.

Online bidding will be available for all those registered to bid and vetted by Phillips prior to the sale.

More on the other watches being offered can be found on the Phillips website.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

Stock image of a gavel
CrimeSep 02, 2026
CA Jeweler Gets 5 Years in ‘Phantom Rolex’ Ponzi Scheme

Nelson Holdo of Newport Beach pleaded guilty to multiple counts of felony grand theft and writing bad checks and was sentenced Monday.

Arnaud Michon
MajorsSep 02, 2026
Messika Names Former Omega Exec as New President, CEO of Americas

Arnaud Michon, the former Omega USA President, will now lead Messika’s Americas region during its international development.

Glitter in the Grove Logo
Events & AwardsSep 02, 2026
Emerald’s New Owner Introduces ‘Glitter in the Grove’

The branding references the back-to-back jewelry shows that new parent company Forge will host in Miami's Coconut Grove this November.

Cover.jpg
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk About

Submit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.

Smart Age Solutions founder and CEO Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsSep 01, 2026
Your Jewelry Marketing Has a Bridal Problem

Engagement rings are important but don’t ignore the customers who are buying jewelry “just because,” Emmanuel Raheb writes.

Weekly QuizAug 27, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Charlotte Fournet and Krizia Cucurachi
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Kering Names New Pomellato, DoDo CEOs

Former Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli has been named president of Kering Italia amid a shakeup of Kering's new Jewelry division.

Anne Marie Shulman
MajorsSep 01, 2026
Anne Marie Shulman Joins GPA Global

The veteran luxury packaging executive was appointed to help the company grow its North American business.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Photo of one of the suspects in theft of Queen Nazli’s necklace from MAK museum
CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum

Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).

Ethiopian paraiba tourmaline
GradingAug 31, 2026
GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab Confirm New Paraíba Tourmaline Deposit in Ethiopia

The labs’ separate investigations each determined that the East African country is producing copper-bearing tourmaline.

Levinger & Bissenger silver floral pendant
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition

“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Catbird First Men’s Collection Worn Well
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry Collection

The “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.

Buddha Mama Butterfly Necklace
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace

This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.

Gareth Penny
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary Congress

The former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.

Day’s Jewelers store in Salem New Hampshire
IndependentsAug 28, 2026
Day’s Jewelers Honored With 3 Workplace Awards

The employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.

Alex Consani in Pandora Talisman campaign
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues

The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.

Stock image of loose polished diamonds
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds

General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.

Counterfeit Cartier Love bracelet
CrimeAug 27, 2026
Customs Seizes Nearly 900 Pieces of Counterfeit Jewelry

The package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.

Jessica McCormack South Coast Plaza California Store Exterior
IndependentsAug 27, 2026
Jessica McCormack to Open First West Coast Store

The new location in Costa Mesa, California, marks the brand’s second store in the United States and fourth standalone location worldwide.

Kate Spade Movado watches
FinancialsAug 27, 2026
Movado’s Q2 Sales Up As Younger Consumers Take Interest in Watches

The fashion watch category was once threatened by the Apple Watch, but consumers are now opting for new wearables, said Movado’s CEO.

Retrouvaí flying pig signet ring
SurveysAug 26, 2026
5 Jewelry Insights From The RealReal’s Resale Report

The report delves into trending styles, the most popular jewelry brands by city, and why Belle Époque jewelry could be the next big thing.

AGTA 17th edition gemstone information manual
Lab-GrownAug 26, 2026
AGTA Now Requiring Members to Call Lab-Grown Gems ‘Synthetic’

The association added the requirement to its revised "Code of Ethics" and released the 17th edition of its “Gemstone Information Manual.”

Hand pushing a shopping cart
SurveysAug 26, 2026
Consumer Confidence Dips in August Amid Anticipatory Anxieties

Respondents were concerned about the future of the labor market and their income as well as the rising prices of gas and groceries.

Boucheron Goutte Eternity Question Mark
TrendsAug 26, 2026
Boucheron’s New Campaign Celebrates Its ‘Question Mark’ Necklaces

The campaign highlights the asymmetrical high jewelry necklace style that the jeweler first created in 1879.

Harry Winston Rare Jewels of the World
Events & AwardsAug 26, 2026
Harry Winston Exhibition to Open in Shanghai

It will explore the life of “The King of Diamonds” and showcase more than 165 creations from the brand.

Alnesha Bianca Handy and James Arthur Graves Graham Jr.
CrimeAug 25, 2026
Florida Woman Scammed Out of $1.5M in Jewelry, Precious Metals

Two suspects have been arrested in connection with the complex phone scam.

Technology Therapy Group Founder and CEO Jennifer Shaheen
ColumnistsAug 25, 2026
Proof Before Purchase: The Gen Z Way to Buy

In her first column for National Jeweler, Jennifer Shaheen asks jewelers if they know how to connect with the next generation of consumers.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy