Their partnership combines Gemist’s customization technology with Saban Onyx’s U.S.-based manufacturing capabilities.
The Rolex That Might Sell for More Than $2.5M
The coveted, black-dialed “Bao Dai” returns to auction next month in Geneva and could become the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.

Geneva--A rare Rolex with a historically significant backstory could become the most expensive watch from the brand ever sold at auction when it goes under the hammer in Geneva next month.
The 35 mm reference 6062 “Bao Dai” Rolex made its debut at Baselworld in 1950, and the watch lays claims to its fair share of “onlys”--it’s one of only three models from Rolex with a black dial and diamond markers; of those three, it’s the only one with diamonds at the even hours; and it’s the most complicated Oyster case model ever made by Rolex, featuring day, date, month and moonphase indications.
And, like any great piece of jewelry or watch that’s bound to stir up aggressive bidding at auction, the Bao Dai also has a fantastic back story.
The Bao Dai bought this Rolex in Geneva in 1954 when he was in town attending the Geneva Conference, the meeting that resulted in the Geneva Accords, which brought an end to the first Indochina War.
Paul Boutros, the head of Americas and senior vice president for Bacs & Russo, said they do not know how much the Bao Dai originally paid for this watch, as it was never sold commercially or appeared in catalogs.
(Bacs & Russo runs the watch department at Phillips; well-known watch auctioneer Aurel Bacs and his wife, watch specialist Livia Russo, re-established the department for the auction house in 2014.)
The Bao Dai died in 1997, and Boutros said that in 2002, the emperor’s family consigned the watch and it sold for $235,000 at Phillips, making it then the most expensive Rolex ever sold at auction.
The man who bought it in 2002 sold it to a private collector, and it is this collector who is bringing the watch back to Phillips for a second sale, Boutros said.
“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity.” --Paul Boutros, Bacs & RussoWhile the watch auctioneer gives a pre-sale estimate of more than $1.5 million, watch collector Edmond Saran
That record is currently held by the Rolex reference 4113 “Split-Seconds” that Phillips sold for $2.5 million in Hong Kong last November.
When asked if he agreed with this estimate, Boutros said that while the auction house has published its estimate at more than $1.5 million, the Bao Dai Rolex “has to be considered as a serious contender to achieve a record-breaking price.”
He said like collectible cars and contemporary art, the market for collectible watches has grown at a “healthy pace” since the last time the watch was sold, in the early 2000s, hence the reason why a watch that sold for less than $300,000 fifteen years ago can be expected to go for more than $2.5 million today.
“In this era of advanced technology, where consumer products become obsolete within months, people are attracted to the enduring aspect of fine mechanical watches, which are built to last an eternity,” Boutros said.
Phillips is auctioning off the Bao Dai, along with a number of other vintage Rolexes, at Geneva’s Hôtel La Réserve on May 13 and 14, holding the sale in association with Bacs & Russo.
Online bidding will be available for all those registered to bid and vetted by Phillips prior to the sale.
More on the other watches being offered can be found on the Phillips website.
The Latest

Respondents were concerned about the Middle East conflict and how it will impact their finances.

Our Piece of the Week, the “Butterfly” necklace, showcases a 7.02-carat oval diamond set between diamond, platinum, and 18-karat gold wings.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Smith uses a comment he overheard in the grocery store to remind retailers that their job is to inspire buying behavior, not just sell.


“A Girl SMR at Claire’s” celebrates girlhood through the five senses with stacked jewelry, slime toys, scented accessories, and ASMR.

Officials are looking for a group that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers at an outlet mall in Round Rock, Texas, in broad daylight on April 21.

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Sponsored by OROAREZZO International Jewelry Exhibition

Some retailers are taking a nuanced approach to marketing what can be a difficult holiday for many.

The Edge has announced its new CEO, as well as a new partnership with an investment firm focused on founder-led software businesses.

De Beers’ diamond production was up 17 percent in Q1, boosted by increased output at its mines in South Africa and Canada.

Importers can submit claims now to receive money back for the IEEPA tariffs they’ve paid, with refunds expected to take up to 90 days.

The owners of Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, North Carolina, are heading into retirement.

The colored gemstone industry leader is heading into retirement after four years as the association’s CEO.

Susie Dewey joins the Natural Diamond Council as its new chief marketing officer.

The largest known fancy vivid blue-green diamond could fetch more than $12 million at its second auction appearance.

Emmanuel Raheb says jewelers need to start marketing early and make it easy for customers to pick a gift for mom.

In honor of the milestone, the Nebraska jeweler has debuted Leslie & Co., its new in-house jewelry brand.

The trade organization, which held its annual elections earlier this year, also added five new board members.

NRF’s annual survey found that 45 percent of consumers plan to purchase jewelry for a loved one this Mother’s Day.

The “Vault” charm, our Piece of the Week, expands on the memories that can be stored in a locket by connecting to your phone.

The open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.

The jeweler’s Mother’s Day campaign highlights the women who work there—mothers, grandmothers, women who want to be mothers, and dog moms.

Sponsored by Jewelers Mutual

The proposed agreement follows the moissanite maker’s Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection filing last month.

The Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece Astor brought aboard the ill-fated ship sold for double its estimate at a Freeman’s auction.






















