Bulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.
11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining
Experts involved in mining around the globe discussed challenges and opportunities in the sector at the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference.
The mining side of the colored gemstone market is not without its issues and can feel like a major challenge when it comes to conversations around responsible sourcing.
But it’s a vital part of those conversations because it has such a tremendous impact on communities worldwide and plays an important role in the industry.
As Monica Stephenson of iDazzle and Anza Gems so succinctly put it during a panel at the recent Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference: “Their challenges are our challenges, really. It affects all of us down the supply chain.”
While mining methods can vary from place to place, the challenges are largely the same.
Luckily, there are people in the industry already tackling those challenges head on, and a few of them came together during the conference for a panel on artisanal and small-scale mining.
Stephenson moderated the session. Panelists were: Salma Kundi Ernest, secretary general of the Tanzanian Women’s Mining Association (TaWoMA); Stuart Pool of Nineteen48, Rubyfair, Crown Gems and co-founder of Fair Luxury; Hewan Zewdi, co-founder of Gems of Ethiopia; Cristina Villegas, director of mines to markets at the NGO Pact; and Norbert Massay, Pact program manager.
Here are a few interesting takeaways from the panel, several of which reiterated the challenges and obstacles mentioned in the panel on gemstone cutting.
On establishing a transparent mine-to-market supply chain in Sri Lanka
“From the outset we wanted to make sure that we knew everything about the stones that we were going to be selling. And it became very quickly quite apparent that in order really to be able to say to people, to our customers, hand on heart, ‘we know exactly where the stones come from,’ it was going to be to actually own the whole supply chain.”
-- Stuart Pool
On what it’s like to be a miner in Sri Lanka
“Fortunately in Sri Lanka, we have a very good environment in terms of the mining and the sourcing of gemstones. It’s a very major part of the economy in the country, and it’s something they’ve been doing for centuries. There’s a very well-established framework, a good understanding of the industry, and there’s also a good legal structure. So we don’t face a lot of the issues that are faced in other countries about the marginalization of the mining communities or the illegal nature of mining activity.”
-- Pool
On providing assurances to customers about the origin of their gems
“I
-- Pool
On the challenges inherent in working with local Ethiopian miners
“The problem is mostly they don’t have any knowledge of the value of gemstones.”
-- Hewan Zewdi
On if the government is encouraging the gem trade
“The Ethiopian government and the Ministry of Mining have established actually a very traceable system from mine to market because all the artisanal miners are licensed and they have an association to back them up … And (the government is) more than happy and supportive for us to open small lapidaries to export and to expand this side of mining.”
-- Zewdi
On what they’re doing for their miners
“We … decided to add the miners as part of our company to share profits instead of just buying from them or contracting from them. We decided we need to add them to the mining profit and whatever we’re doing. They deserve it. They work hard. They have a very challenging job. They don’t have transportation. They don’t have water to the area. They don’t have schools. They struggle. They don’t even have a decent ladder to move down the whole to dig up stuff.”
-- Zewdi
On the challenges of mining in Tanzania
“She mentioned four challenges. One of them is they don’t have the equipment to do the work … The second one is knowledge about doing the mining. Actually they keep on asking every time, ‘Is there a machine that they can use to find out where is the pocket?’ Another one is the finances to do the work. For example, food for the people who are mining. Sometimes it’s difficult to get food to feed them. And the fourth one is the markets. It’s very difficult to get to markets. They only get local buyers whom they sell to for a very low price.”
-- Norbert Massay translating for Salma Kundi Ernest
“It’s true that paying for a license is (also) one of the key challenges among women. It costs about $400, which is very difficult for a normal woman who is mining to get $400.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest
On the impact of the GIA’s gem guide project
“Before this project began … it was really difficult for them to know the value of the materials they had. They were just selling whatever they thought was OK. After this project, they can identify, they can sort, they know how to wash and add value into the material … They are really now getting more money than when they didn’t have this project. It has added a lot of value into their life using a book and using a tray.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest
On the current ban on exporting rough in Tanzania (extended to all rough gems earlier this year in an effort to establishing cutting in country)
“It’s a big challenge. For her and for the communities, it is very difficult to sell now. So even when they know the quality of the rough they have, now they have been selling it at an even lower price compared to even before they knew the value.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest
“To fully understand the scope of the problem, you have to understand that Tanzania is not prepared to cut in any way, shape or form the amount of material that is coming out. It’s a grand noble gesture but there is no practicality to it.”
-- Monica Stephenson
The Latest

Awards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.

The top jewelry lot of the late model’s estate sale, hosted by John Moran Auctioneers, was an Oscar Heyman & Brothers for Cartier necklace.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

Moses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.


Increased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.

The earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

“The Price of Freedom” campaign video for International Women’s Day confronts the quiet violence of financial control.

Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.

The ever-growing collection, which just expanded with the addition of Olga of Kyiv, features cameos of 12 women from history.

We asked a jewelry historian, designer, bridal director, and wedding expert what’s trending in engagement rings. Here’s what they said.

The annual event will be held in Orlando, Florida, from Sept. 14-17.

The “Outlander” star modeled for the digital cover of the magazine’s spring issue, which features a story on her relationship with jewelry.

This year’s annual congress, which will mark the confederation’s 100th anniversary, will take place this fall in Italy.

Beverly Hills was chosen as the location for the brand’s first store, designed as a “private residence for modern monarchs.”

Kering, Apple, and other retailers have reportedly temporarily closed stores in the Middle East region in light of the recent conflicts.

Nearly half of buyers are prioritizing silver and fashion collections this season, organizers said.

The “Live Now. Polish Later.” campaign features equestrians wearing the brand’s jewels while galloping across the icy plains of Kazakhstan.

The precious metals provider has promoted Jennifer Ashworth to the role.

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on March 13.

Experts from India weigh in the politics, policies, and market dynamics for diamantaires to monitor in 2026 and beyond.

The American precious metals refiner’s day-to-day operations remain the same post-acquisition.

These aquamarine jewels channel the calming energy of the March birthstone.

The “Innovative Design” category and award will debut in the Spectrum division of this year’s AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards.

Consumers were somewhat less worried about the future, though concerns about rising prices and politics remained.

Foerster is this year’s Stanley Schechter Award recipient.























