Editors

11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

EditorsOct 31, 2018

11 Insights on Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

Experts involved in mining around the globe discussed challenges and opportunities in the sector at the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference.

The mining side of the colored gemstone market is not without its issues and can feel like a major challenge when it comes to conversations around responsible sourcing.

But it’s a vital part of those conversations because it has such a tremendous impact on communities worldwide and plays an important role in the industry.

As Monica Stephenson of iDazzle and Anza Gems so succinctly put it during a panel at the recent Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference: “Their challenges are our challenges, really. It affects all of us down the supply chain.”

While mining methods can vary from place to place, the challenges are largely the same.

Luckily, there are people in the industry already tackling those challenges head on, and a few of them came together during the conference for a panel on artisanal and small-scale mining.

Stephenson moderated the session. Panelists were: Salma Kundi Ernest, secretary general of the Tanzanian Women’s Mining Association (TaWoMA); Stuart Pool of Nineteen48, Rubyfair, Crown Gems and co-founder of Fair Luxury; Hewan Zewdi, co-founder of Gems of Ethiopia; Cristina Villegas, director of mines to markets at the NGO Pact; and Norbert Massay, Pact program manager.

Here are a few interesting takeaways from the panel, several of which reiterated the challenges and obstacles mentioned in the panel on gemstone cutting.

On establishing a transparent mine-to-market supply chain in Sri Lanka

“From the outset we wanted to make sure that we knew everything about the stones that we were going to be selling. And it became very quickly quite apparent that in order really to be able to say to people, to our customers, hand on heart, ‘we know exactly where the stones come from,’ it was going to be to actually own the whole supply chain.”
-- Stuart Pool

On what it’s like to be a miner in Sri Lanka

“Fortunately in Sri Lanka, we have a very good environment in terms of the mining and the sourcing of gemstones. It’s a very major part of the economy in the country, and it’s something they’ve been doing for centuries. There’s a very well-established framework, a good understanding of the industry, and there’s also a good legal structure. So we don’t face a lot of the issues that are faced in other countries about the marginalization of the mining communities or the illegal nature of mining activity.”
-- Pool

On providing assurances to customers about the origin of their gems

“I

think … that we still operate very much in a trust-based system, so … ultimately they have to trust that their supplier—that’s me—is telling them the true and accurate story about the stones. Having said that, as I said, in Sri Lanka we have, at least, a good legal structure, so I have documentation so I can show people the lease for the land or the license that we have to mine there. I can show people the contracts that we give to our workers … So we do have a certain amount of paper trail. Because the country is so accessible, we also have the benefit that people have come to see us.”
-- Pool

On the challenges inherent in working with local Ethiopian miners

“The problem is mostly they don’t have any knowledge of the value of gemstones.”
-- Hewan Zewdi

On if the government is encouraging the gem trade

“The Ethiopian government and the Ministry of Mining have established actually a very traceable system from mine to market because all the artisanal miners are licensed and they have an association to back them up … And (the government is) more than happy and supportive for us to open small lapidaries to export and to expand this side of mining.”
-- Zewdi

On what they’re doing for their miners

“We … decided to add the miners as part of our company to share profits instead of just buying from them or contracting from them. We decided we need to add them to the mining profit and whatever we’re doing. They deserve it. They work hard. They have a very challenging job. They don’t have transportation. They don’t have water to the area. They don’t have schools. They struggle. They don’t even have a decent ladder to move down the whole to dig up stuff.”
-- Zewdi

On the challenges of mining in Tanzania

“She mentioned four challenges. One of them is they don’t have the equipment to do the work … The second one is knowledge about doing the mining. Actually they keep on asking every time, ‘Is there a machine that they can use to find out where is the pocket?’ Another one is the finances to do the work. For example, food for the people who are mining. Sometimes it’s difficult to get food to feed them. And the fourth one is the markets. It’s very difficult to get to markets. They only get local buyers whom they sell to for a very low price.”
-- Norbert Massay translating for Salma Kundi Ernest

“It’s true that paying for a license is (also) one of the key challenges among women. It costs about $400, which is very difficult for a normal woman who is mining to get $400.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

On the impact of the GIA’s gem guide project

“Before this project began … it was really difficult for them to know the value of the materials they had. They were just selling whatever they thought was OK. After this project, they can identify, they can sort, they know how to wash and add value into the material … They are really now getting more money than when they didn’t have this project. It has added a lot of value into their life using a book and using a tray.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

On the current ban on exporting rough in Tanzania (extended to all rough gems earlier this year in an effort to establishing cutting in country)

“It’s a big challenge. For her and for the communities, it is very difficult to sell now. So even when they know the quality of the rough they have, now they have been selling it at an even lower price compared to even before they knew the value.”
-- Massay for Kundi Ernest

“To fully understand the scope of the problem, you have to understand that Tanzania is not prepared to cut in any way, shape or form the amount of material that is coming out. It’s a grand noble gesture but there is no practicality to it.”
-- Monica Stephenson
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.
tags:

The Latest

Claire’s storefront
MajorsMar 18, 2024
Claire’s to Launch in 4,400 Walgreens Stores

The retailer is expanding its footprint via retail partnerships, previously inking deals with Kohl’s and Macy’s.

Jewelers of America logo
MajorsMar 18, 2024
JA Partners with eBay on New Member Benefit

Members will now have access to “eBay Concierge,” a white-glove dedicated customer service team.

The Jewelry Symposium logo
Events & AwardsMar 18, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Launches Inaugural Scholarship

The deadline to apply is March 29.

BTYB-HoBrothers-updated.png
Brought to you by
The Scalable, Professional, and Effortless Solution for High-Demand Custom Jewelry Retailers

Ho Brothers offers scalable solutions for the future of custom jewelry.

Brilliant Earth x Logan Hollowell Bloom earrings
FinancialsMar 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth Posts Record Sales, Orders in 2023

CEO Beth Gerstein spoke about the growing appeal of its non-bridal fine jewelry and its expansion plans on its recent earnings call.

Weekly QuizMar 14, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
Arkansas crater of diamonds eclipse tickets
SourcingMar 15, 2024
Crater of Diamonds State Park Selling Eclipse Tickets

Ticketholders can dig for diamonds in the Arkansas park ahead of the eclipse viewing event on April 8.

Lotus Tiara
CollectionsMar 15, 2024
Piece of the Week: The Lotus Tiara

The versatile jewel pairs ancient Egyptian inspiration with a modern design.

GIA id100
Brought to you by
Full Disclosure at Your Fingertips

Distinguishing natural diamonds from laboratory-grown stones – now more available than ever – has been difficult for jewelers. Until now.

Stock image of rough diamonds mined by De Beers
SourcingMar 14, 2024
De Beers Says Retailers Are ‘Restocking Conservatively’

The company’s rough sales improved for the third sales cycle in a row.

Gemological Institute of America logo
GradingMar 14, 2024
GIA Has a New Scholarship for High School Students in San Diego

The spring application window closes on March 31.

15.51-Carat Yellow Diamond
AuctionsMar 14, 2024
Phillips Hong Kong to Auction 15.51-Carat Yellow Diamond

It’s estimated to sell for up to $1.3 million at the upcoming sale on March 28.

Hedda Schupak
Events & AwardsMar 14, 2024
WJA Foundation Establishes Scholarship in Hedda Schupak’s Honor

It aims to support aspiring journalists, media professionals, content creators, and communicators.

Slick Rick
Events & AwardsMar 13, 2024
A Celebration of Hip-Hop Jewelry Is Coming to AMNH

“Ice Cold: An Exhibition of Hip-Hop Jewelry” will open at the New York City museum on May 9.

Dave Meleski
MajorsMar 13, 2024
Richline’s Dave Meleski Takes Over as RJC Chair

He succeeds David Bouffard, who is leaving Signet and the RJC next month.

Zachary’s Jewelers Mother’s Day kids jewelry contest
IndependentsMar 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Is Holding a Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest for Kids

Three winners will have their jewelry sketches turned into a real piece of jewelry in time for the holiday.

Boucheron Power of Couture
CollectionsMar 13, 2024
Boucheron’s New High Jewelry Collection Pays Homage to Ceremony, History

“Power of Couture” recalls Frédéric Boucheron’s love of fabric using diamonds and rock crystal.

Harry Winston diamond necklace
AuctionsMar 12, 2024
Top Lots Don’t Sell at Sotheby’s Signed Jewels Auction

A Harry Winston diamond necklace and other top lots failed to find buyers.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsMar 12, 2024
The PR Adviser: Closing Sales and Following Up

Lilian Raji offers advice to a business owner who is having trouble crossing the finish line with customers.

Steve Webb
MajorsMar 12, 2024
Steve Webb Named EVP of The Gordon Company

He brings 30 years of retail store management experience to the role.

Diamonds Do Good Awards logo
Events & AwardsMar 12, 2024
DDG to Honor 3 Industry Veterans in Vegas

At its annual gala, Diamonds Do Good will present awards to GIA, London Jewelers, and Lisa Bridge.

2024 Gem Awards audience
Events & AwardsMar 11, 2024
Gem Awards Highlight the Power of Retail, Community

The 2024 winners expressed gratitude to their teams, industry colleagues, and those who turn jewelry dreams into reality.

Jewelry from designers Jean Prounis, Marla Aaron, and Marie Lichtenberg
CollectionsMar 08, 2024
Pieces of the Week: Gem Award for Jewelry Design Nominees

They are Marla Aaron, Marie Lichtenberg, and Jean Prounis.

Peter Montalbano
Events & AwardsMar 08, 2024
Peter Montalbano to Receive JSA Industry Service Award

The Jewelers’ Security Alliance will honor the industry veteran at its upcoming annual luncheon.

Pomellato International Women’s Day video campaign
Policies & IssuesMar 08, 2024
Pomellato’s 2024 IWD Video Calls for an End to Violence Against Women

The annual video stars Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli alongside Jane Fonda and other celebrities and activists.

970x250.jpg
Supplier BulletinMar 07, 2024
Empower Your Team with IGI’s Comprehensive Educational Services

Sponsored by IGI

Eddie Grove
IndependentsMar 07, 2024
‘Old-School’ Jewelry Salesman Eddie Grove Dies at 81

The Pennsylvania native, who sold for Gumuchian and others, is remembered for being kind and outgoing.

A selection of engagement rings
TrendsMar 07, 2024
5 Engagement Ring Trends for 2024

From three-stone rings to fancy shapes, experts weigh in on what consumers could be looking for this year.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy