Editors

What It’s Like to Be a Field Gemologist, Part 2

EditorsMar 08, 2018

What It’s Like to Be a Field Gemologist, Part 2

Vincent Pardieu talks the green gem he’ll focus on this year, how the sector can work with conservation efforts and the knowledge many are lacking.

20180308_Header.jpg
Field gemologist Vincent Pardieu and his team went to Ethiopia in December. Here he is pictured holding a piece of emerald associated with mica and quartz collected as a reference sample for the Danat lab from Dogogo pit of the WGM mine. (Photo credit: Raphaelle Cousteix /Danat)

Vincent Pardieu has established a career that sees him jetting around the world to gather gemstones from the source for industry laboratories. To hear him tell it, it’s tough, important work that can also take him to interesting places and allows him to meet fascinating people.  

In the second part of a two-part Q&A with the field gemologist, we talk about memorable moments in his career, where it could take him next and challenges in the market today.

(Revisit the first half of our conversation here.)

National Jeweler: Is there a project or trip that is particularly memorable to you, whether that’s for a good or bad reason?

Vincent Pardieu: Mozambique is a very special place to me because that currently is the world’s leading source for rubies. I went to Mozambique at the very beginning. I was the first foreigner, the first gemologist, to be able to visit it and I have visited this ruby deposit every year since.

But it’s not just that. It’s these stories that happen to me. I was able to meet the people from the ruby deposit in Montepuez because of people from the Niassa Reserve, so then I started to collaborate with the people from the Niassa Reserve. They are conservationists. If I want to go to an area that is dedicated to conservation, I have to ask them for permission.

I started collaborating with them and gained some interest in the Niassa Lion Project. Now, every time I go to Mozambique, I go to visit the ruby mine and I also go to visit Niassa to understand the interaction between mining and conservation because I was able to see that, in some cases in Africa, you have some discoveries of gemstones inside areas dedicated to conversation.

Sometimes it turns out to be a win-win situation because the miners and the people in charge of conservation collaborate. But in other cases, it’s a total disaster because they have conflicts.

I was able to see some very positive stories, for example in Kenya, where you have mining inside Tsavo National Park. I was able to meet Campbell Bridges during my first visit to Africa in 2005, and I was very impressed to see that he named a stone after the national park and was mining these stones just inside Tsavo and trying to support conservation in this area, helping

the national park to fight against poaching and things like that. So there was a positive synergy between the park, tsavorite and tsavorite miners.


But that’s not always the case. Like recently in Madagascar, where you have some sapphire discoveries inside one of the last protected forest areas, you have thousands of miners invading the protected area and now there is a direct conflict between the conservationists trying to protect this area and sapphire traders and miners.

So I’m trying to help find some solutions because, from what I see, in some areas conservation and gem mining can work together, and there are some opportunities for the gem trade and conservation to collaborate, but if there are conflicts, I think it can be very dangerous for the gem trade because we are making enemies that we don’t really want to make.

NJ: So in these situations, you’re sort of playing a role where you are also trying to help figure out how to branch the two, as well as doing the field research?

VP: Yes. Because I need to speak with them in order to access these areas. When I go to an area, I go to see the authorities, and sometimes there are some security issues so I have to ask for permission. And of course, every time I speak with the authorities, they ask me my opinion (about the mining sites), because very regularly I see that the guys in charge never have visited the sites. So I try to convince them to, No. 1, let me go, and maybe let me go with some policemen or some technicians.

Then I come back and I tell them what I have seen. The whole time there is collaboration because I need to get access and be able to collect some samples, and in exchange I provide them with information and with some advice.

NJ: Is there anywhere you haven’t been or any projects you haven’t started yet that you would still like to do?

VP: There are a lot of places. During the past eight years for GIA I focused on rubies and sapphires, but this year I think I will focus on emeralds. I plan to visit quite a lot of emerald deposits in the coming year, so probably go to Brazil, Colombia and some other emerald sites I haven’t visited yet, like Madagascar and Austria. I visited some emerald mines when they were close to the ruby and sapphire mines. Emerald was my priority No. 3, and now it’s becoming my priority No. 1.

There are plenty of countries where I haven’t put my feet and with this focus on emerald, I will be able to find a good reason to go there. That will be fun.

NJ: To take a broad look at the market, from your perspective, what are some of the biggest challenges that the colored gemstone sector faces today?

VP: There are multiple. There is always the challenge that most people understand very, very little about colored stones and they have a very limited knowledge about colored stones, so this creates an opportunity for some to take advantage of the lack of knowledge.

(Specifically I’m talking about) technical knowledge about, for example, synthetic treatments and how to speak about treatment. The trade still doesn’t know how to speak about treatment. They are trying to avoid it because treatment sounds bad. Many people in the trade are afraid to speak about treatments so they prefer not to, so (the challenge is) how to handle treatment, how to communicate about treatment, how to explain to the customer that treatment is not always a bad thing.
“The trade still doesn’t know how to speak about treatment. They are trying to avoid it because treatment sounds bad. Many people in the trade are afraid to speak about treatments so they prefer not to.”
For many mining areas now, you need treatment. If you don’t have treatment, only maybe less than 1 percent of the production would be able to find a market. But I don’t know any business that can survive with 1 percent of production. If there is a mining area that is active, it’s probably because there is a treatment. And, actually, untreated stones are a byproduct of mining for a stone that will be treated.

For example, rubies; to find rubies that don’t need heat treatment, there might be one stone like that out of 100. But if the 100 don’t find a market, it will not be profitable for the miner to work the project.

It’s very difficult. The miners have to be able to sell their daily production to be able to survive. Most of the miners don’t have enough capital to survive until they get an exceptional stone. Mining is not about getting exceptional stones; it’s about getting some stones and then from time to time, there will be an exceptional stone. This is one of the difficulties the trade has. 

Also, speaking about origin; origin is complicated because there are many different labs with different opinions. Some labs are not doing research, some labs are. But they still all have an opinion. And the final customer has the problem of figuring out which labs they should trust the most.

For colored stones, it’s complicated because you have a great variety of choice—so many stones and so many colors. Many people feel lost because they don’t know who to trust, they feel like there’s so much to learn and they don’t know enough so maybe they should think about buying something else. How to maintain the trust in the product—I think the colored stone sector has a lot to improve in that area.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

White, pink, and blue lab-grown diamonds from Lightbox
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%

The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.

Christie’s New York
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed

The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.

Madeleine K. Albright’s Patriotic Leopard Brooch
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | Hindman

The late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.

Royal Chain gold chains
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.

Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.

Zachary’s Jewelers Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest winners
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest Winners

Three fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.

Weekly QuizMay 09, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Take the Quiz
Kimberly Adams Russell
IndependentsMay 10, 2024
Frank Adams Jewelers Names New CEO

Kimberly Adams Russell is taking over the role from her father, David Adams, marking the third generation to hold the title.

Birth of Venus necklace
CollectionsMay 10, 2024
Piece of the Week: Carina Hardy’s ‘Birth of Venus’ Necklace

As a token of womanhood, this necklace depicts when Venus was born from the sea.

Header image w logo.jpg
Brought to you by
From Registration to Return: 10 Tips to Protect You Before, During and After a Tradeshow

Tradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.

Roberto Coin Fleur de Lis jewelry
MajorsMay 09, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Pays $130M for Roberto Coin Inc.

The deal gives the retailer control over the distribution of Roberto Coin jewelry in the U.S., Canada, Caribbean, and Central America.

Lauren K Mosaic necklace
TrendsMay 09, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Shine Bright, Moms  

Show your mother some love with a piece of fine jewelry.

Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry
IndependentsMay 09, 2024
Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry to Close Salisbury Store

The company’s Easton location will remain open.

Jewelers Board of Trade logo
MajorsMay 09, 2024
JBT Elects New Chairman

Brian D. Fleming of Carla Corporation was elected to serve a one-year term in the role.

Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show Bracelets
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2024
Fusing Past and Present at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Rendering of M.S. Rau pop-up shop in Aspen, Colorado
IndependentsMay 07, 2024
112-Year-Old New Orleans Business Popping Up in Aspen

M.S. Rau is set to open a seasonal gallery in the high-end resort town early next month.

Vhernier Calla necklace rose gold and ebony
MajorsMay 07, 2024
Richemont Acquires Italian Jeweler Vhernier

The branded jewelry market is thriving, said Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert.

The six Couture Luminaries designers 2024
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
These ‘Luminaries’ Are Set to Light Up Couture

The six designers, all participants in the show’s Diversity Action Council mentorship program, will exhibit in Salon 634.

Sylvester Stallone watch auction
AuctionsMay 07, 2024
Sotheby’s to Auction Sylvester Stallone’s Watches

The highlight of his collection is the coveted Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, which could sell for up to $5 million.

Models Wearing Venetian Link Bracelets and Necklaces
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
Phillip Gavriel Pays Tribute to Venice With New Collection

The “Venetian Link” series modernizes the classic Veneziana box chain in its bracelets and necklaces.

Jewelers of America logo
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2024
JA Now Accepting Applications for New Bench Jeweler Scholarship

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship will provide tuition assistance to two low-income students.

Rolex and Hallmark logos
Policies & IssuesMay 06, 2024
Rolex Files Objection to Hallmark’s New Trademark Application

The Swiss watchmaker said the company’s plans to use a new version of the Hallmark crown on jewelry would confuse consumers.

Anglo American executive Benny Oeyen
EditorsMay 06, 2024
Q&A: 8 Questions With Anglo American’s Benny Oeyen

The executive talked about the importance of self-purchasers and how fuel cell electric vehicles are going to fuel demand for platinum.

Opening of Malabar Gold & Diamonds store in Naperville Illinois
MajorsMay 06, 2024
Malabar Gold & Diamonds Opens 4th U.S. Showroom

The Indian jeweler’s new store in Naperville, Illinois marks its 350th location, part of its ongoing global expansion plans.

Ben Bridge Jeweler Logo
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2024
Ben Bridge Jeweler Accepting Applications for Lonia Tate Scholarship

It will award a graduating high school student with about $10,000 toward a GIA diploma and an internship with the Seattle-based jeweler.

Mug shots of murder suspects Michael McCormack and Charles Robinson Shay
CrimeMay 03, 2024
Second Suspect Arrested in Murder of Colorado Jeweler

Wheat Ridge, Colorado police took a 50-year-old man into custody Wednesday following a two-month search.

Five Platinum Pieces
CollectionsMay 03, 2024
A Sneak Peek Into PGI’s Couture Platinum Spotlight Program

PGI partnered with four new and seven returning designers for its annual platinum capsule collection.

Kristie Nicolosi
MajorsMay 03, 2024
Kristie Nicolosi Joins WJA Board Again

Nicolosi, president and CEO of The Kingswood Company, previously sat on WJA’s board from 2011 to 2018.

Karina Brez Bit of LUV Bracelet
CollectionsMay 03, 2024
Piece of the Week: A “Bit of LUV” for the Derby

Karina Brez’s race-ready piece is a sophisticated nod to the horse-rider relationship.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy