Auctions

Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates

AuctionsSep 25, 2019

Emerald Gifted by a Mughal Emperor Crushes Auction Estimates

The octagonal stone, given to the aristocrat who inspired a character in “The Lady of the Lake,” sold for about $187,000.

20190925_Mughal-emerald.jpg
Mughal Emperor Akbar II is believed to have given this octagonal engraved Colombian emerald to Lady Mary Hood in 1813. It is set in a brooch featuring enamel, diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds and platinum.

London—A brooch featuring an engraved Colombian emerald gifted to an aristocrat who inspired a character in the poem “The Lady of the Lake” sold for more than double its pre-sale estimate at Bonhams Tuesday.

The piece was part of Bonhams’ London jewelry auction that took place Sept. 24.

It was estimated to sell for $50,000 to $75,000, but ended up going for about $187,000.

The brooch once belonged to Victorian adventurer, literary muse and heiress Lady Mary Hood.

The showpiece of the brooch is a Persian-engraved emerald believed to have been given to her by Mughal Emperor Akbar II (reigned 1806-1837) around 1813 while she was traveling across India.

Lady Hood, also known as Lady Hood Mackenzie, Mrs. Stewart-Mackenzie and sometimes as “The Hooded Lassie,” was the daughter of Francis Humberston Mackenzie, a British soldier, politician, botanist, chief of clan Mackenzie and last Baron Seaforth.

In 1801, her family moved to Barbados, where her father became governor. It was there she met her first husband, Admiral Sir Samuel Hood, who was 20 years her senior. The two married in November 1804 in Bridgetown.

Hood was a captain who served in several battles. While he was away at sea, Lady Hood lived primarily in England, where she became friends with a number of prominent aristocrats.

It was also then she befriended poet and novelist Sir Walter Scott, which led to her serving as the prototype for the character Ellen Douglas in the narrative poem “The Lady of the Lake.” The two corresponded regularly, with the poet often attempting to lift her spirits while her husband was away at war.

In 1811, Sir Samuel was appointed commander-in-chief of the East Indies, so the two sailed to India.

Lady Hood traveled extensively throughout the country, most of the time in a manner comparable to a royal procession. She sometimes even traveled by palanquin (a covered litter with bearers).

It was during this time, it is believed, that the emperor gave her the emerald.

The rulers of Mughal India often inscribed their names and titles on rubies, emeralds and diamonds.

Lady Hood’s emerald is engraved with five lines in nasta’liq, a Persian calligraphic script, interspersed with floral motifs.

The brass plaque on its case reads, “This emerald is engraved in Persian with the following words: cream of the pillars of the state, Queen and music of the age, Mary Frederica Elizabeth Hood,

noblest of women, Princess, child of the Majesty of Mahommed Akbar, the Emperor, the Warrior. 1813.”

In December 1814, Lady Hood’s husband died of malaria in Madras.

Childless and short on money, she returned to Scotland, and upon her arrival in early 1815 discovered her father and remaining brother also had died recently. The Seaforth family’s estates devolved to her, and she assumed the chieftaincy of clan Mackenzie.

In 1817, she married James Alexander Stewart of Glasserton, who took her family name—Mackenzie—and the extensive Seaforth properties. The couple had three sons and three daughters.

Lady Mary died in 1862. According to Bonhams, her funeral was one of the last great Highland funerals. A five-mile column of mourners, led by pipers playing the clan lament, followed the hearse to her final resting place, Fortrose Castle.

She was said to be the first British woman to shoot a tiger and acquired a taste for smoking the hookah pipe.

Her youngest daughter, Louisa Baring, Lady Ashburton, inherited the emerald, which has been passed down through the family to the current owner, a direct descendant.

The Colombian stone sits in a frame of black enamel, brilliant and single-cut diamonds, calibré-cut emeralds at each corner and platinum, thought to have been created circa 1925 by British society jeweler Hennell.

“The resulting Art Deco jewel perfectly encapsulates the early 20th-century vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry that resonated particularly in England due to Britain’s colonial interests,” Bonhams U.K. Jewellery Director Emily Barber said.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

The Retail Smith Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 21, 2026
Sherry Smith: Shattering the Illusion of the ‘Either/Or’ Diamond Market

Smith offers retailers guidance on creating an environment where natural and lab-grown diamonds can both thrive.

Emerald logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2026
Apollo Funds Completes Emerald Acquisition

Former Emerald President and CEO Hervé Sedky has transitioned to the role of senior advisor.

Graff Seraphina Brooch and Lina Pendant
CollectionsJul 21, 2026
Graff’s New Butterfly High Jewelry Brooches Metamorphosize

The 12-piece capsule collection transforms from brooches to pendants.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Rough diamonds from De Beers’ Gahcho Kue mine in Canada
SourcingJul 21, 2026
Anglo Reportedly Selects Gareth Penny’s Consortium as Top Bidder for De Beers

A Botswana government official told lawmakers Anglo has selected The Global Diamond Consortium, an entity chaired by Penny, to buy De Beers.

Weekly QuizJul 17, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of shipping containers
Policies & IssuesJul 20, 2026
Tariffs on Brazil to Increase But Rough Gemstones Exempt

The new tariff, imposed after a Trump administration study, is 25 percent and will stack on top of existing tariffs.

Vhernier Freccia High Jewelry Necklace
CollectionsJul 20, 2026
Vhernier Transforms ‘Freccia’ Collection Into High Jewelry

The collection from 2014 has been reinterpreted into high jewelry with its signature triangular-shaped elements.

DCA-NJ-article-1872x1052-060826.jpg
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce Solutions

DCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.

Krista Collins Walters
MajorsJul 20, 2026
Krista Collins Walters Promoted to Publisher of Instore

She will also take on the role of vice president of jewelry for SmartWork Media, a newly created position.

Attendees at the Jewelry Symposium
Events & AwardsJul 20, 2026
TJS Accepting Speaker Proposals for 2027 Event

Organizers are looking for presentations on topics like manufacturing, technology and research, bench work, gemstones, and sustainability.

HOWL Frida Venetian Glass Collar
CollectionsJul 17, 2026
HOWL Taps Shailene Woodley for ‘Home Sweet Home’ Campaign

Woodley is seen in the campaign wearing our Piece of the Week, the “Frida” collar featuring 13 pieces of hand-carved Venetian glass.

A diamond ring in a jewelry box
SourcingJul 17, 2026
U.K. Woman Pays £5 for £15K Diamond Ring at Car Boot Sale

A WeBuyVintage jewelry expert uncovered how much the flea market find was actually worth.

Unveiling Rarities
SourcingJul 17, 2026
Diamond Dealer Jeff Pancis Pens Memoir

The founder of natural colored diamond wholesaler Pancis Gems shares stories from his five decades in the industry.

Gem Awards 2027 Logo
Events & AwardsJul 17, 2026
Gem Awards Opens 2027 Nomination Period

Submissions for the milestone 25th annual Gem Awards will be accepted across three categories from now through July 31.

Guzema Founder and Creative Director Valeriya Guzema and Co-Owner and CEO Mariana Lenha
EditorsJul 16, 2026
Q&A: Guzema’s Co-Owners On Its US Expansion, 10-Year Anniversary

Valeriya Guzema and Mariana Lenha look back on the last decade and discuss the Ukrainian brand’s first U.S. store.

Main camp at Ekati Diamond Mine
SourcingJul 16, 2026
Ekati to Close, Leaving Canada With One Diamond Mine

The diamond mine, which opened nearly 30 years ago in Canada’s Northwest Territories, is expected to shut down by mid-August.

Necklace from Vhernier’s “Freccia” high jewelry collection
FinancialsJul 16, 2026
Richemont’s Jewelry Sales Soar for the Seventh Quarter in a Row

Jewelry sales for the company, which owns Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Vhernier, and Buccellati, rose 21 percent in the first quarter.

Grace Barden
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program Certifies First Advanced Apprentice Graduate

The graduate, Grace Barden, credited the program with helping her secure a job as a bench jeweler.

Jewelers of Louisiana 80th Annual Convention Logo
Events & AwardsJul 16, 2026
Jewelers of Louisiana to Host 80th Convention

The event, scheduled for next month in New Orleans, will include dinner, a custom jewelry design contest, and education sessions.

Lucara diamond
SourcingJul 15, 2026
1,305-Carat Diamond Recovered from Mine in Botswana

The yet-to-be named stone is the 10th diamond weighing more than 1,000 carats to come out of Lucara’s Karowe mine.

Barry Berman
IndependentsJul 15, 2026
New Jersey Jeweler Barry Berman Dies at 81

The founder of Fords Jewelers, Berman is remembered for his love of connecting with his community.

Watches of Switzerland Mall of America store
FinancialsJul 15, 2026
Watches of Switzerland’s US Sales Jump 18%, Declines to Comment on Sale Report

The watch and jewelry retailer had a strong fiscal year despite what its CEO described as a “complex operating backdrop.”

Hamptons Jewelry Show exhibitors Maison Mèrenor, Jochen Leën, Studio Javo
Events & AwardsJul 15, 2026
Hamptons Jewelry Show to Return in July

The open-to-the-public luxury jewelry and timepiece show, in its second year, is slated for July 23-26.

Pomellato Eye of Tanzanite Necklace and Pin-Up Ring
CollectionsJul 15, 2026
Pomellato’s New High Jewelry Is Liberating

Bold color, expressive gem-setting, and sculptural form define the three chapters that make up “Stile Libero.”

Foundrae London Store Showcases
IndependentsJul 14, 2026
Foundrae Opens First Standalone Store Outside US

The New York-based jewelry brand has expanded overseas, opening a store in London’s Mayfair district.

The Retail Smiths Principal Partner and National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith
ColumnistsJul 14, 2026
Sherry Smith: What Today’s Jewelry Consumer Is Telling Us

Rising revenue does not automatically mean a healthy business, particularly in the current economic landscape, Smith writes.

Mindi Mond New York emerald shoulder duster earrings
TrendsJul 14, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Shoulder Dusters

These long, fluid drop earrings are sure to catch the eye.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy