Grading

GCAL Expands 8X Cut Grade to Fancy Diamond Shapes

GradingMay 05, 2022

GCAL Expands 8X Cut Grade to Fancy Diamond Shapes

It will introduce the 8X Oval and 8X Princess Diamond Cut Grade certificates at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show.

20220505_GCAL-8X-Fancies.jpg
New York-based Gem Certification & Assurance Lab has introduced a new diamond cut grade standard for fancy shapes, called the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade.
New York—A year after launching 8X, a new cut grade standard for round brilliant diamonds, the Gem Certification & Assurance Lab has expanded it to fancy shapes. 
 
The lab introduced the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade in April 2021 to reflect advancements in diamond cutting technology and techniques and the resulting cuts from the top diamond manufacturers. 
 
The cut grade takes eight factors into account. (GIA, for comparison, bases its cut grade on seven factors.)
 
The lab said it received many requests for the development of 8X for fancy shapes after its introduction. 
 
So, it created the new 8X Fancy Shape Diamond Cut Grade, notable since fancy shape diamonds are typically graded for polish and symmetry only. 

The new cut grade from GCAL considers eight critical factors: polish, external symmetry, proportions, optical brilliance, fire, scintillation, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics.
 
Similar to the 8X evaluation of round brilliants, polish, external symmetry, and proportions focus on physical precision of the diamond’s surface, facet shapes, and angles. Optical brilliance, fire, and scintillation analyze how a diamond handles light.
 
The final two grading factors, optical symmetry, and shape aesthetics, are about optical precision, or the craftsmanship of the crown and pavilion facets and how they work together.

Angelo Palmieri, GCAL COO and partner, said the lab has a “vast wealth of analytical images and data” from all the stones that have passed through it since it opened in 2000, including millions of photomicrographs, direct assessment images of optical brilliance, optical symmetry, scintillation, fire, and measurements.
 
 Related stories will be right here … 
 
This positioned them well to build correlation tables between proportions and performance, he said. For ovals, for example, they developed datamining software to analyze images and build custom applications to calculate bowtie and shoulder bulge.
 
“As a result, I believe a diamond certificate has been created that honors the exceptional craftsmanship in fancy shape diamond cutting. And not merely with words, but with analytical and visual analysis that backs up those claims,” Palmieri said. 
 
“This is the proof retailers need to demonstrate a diamond’s brilliance, fire, scintillation, and beauty, and it’s the visual, scientific, and accurate proof consumers have been looking for to make a more informed decision.”

The cut grade can be used for both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds. 
 
The corresponding reports are priced the same as those for the 8X Ultimate Diamond Cut Grade and look similar to those created for the round brilliants. 
 
GCAL will introduce the 8X Oval and 8X Princess Diamond Cut Grade certificates at the upcoming JCK Las Vegas jewelry trade show. 
 
Additional 8X fancies will be introduced later this year, GCAL said, confirming that cushions will be up next. 
 
For more information, visit GCALUSA.com.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Melanie Georgacopoulos Eclipse Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsMay 04, 2026
Melanie Georgacopoulos Turns Pearls Into Light for ‘Eclipse’ Collection

The “Eclipse” jewelry collection captures the fleeting moment where light and shadow align though onyx, diamonds, and freshwater pearls.

National Jeweler columnist Sherry Smith, partner at The Retail Smiths
ColumnistsMay 04, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show Buying

Buying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.

Mugshot of 20-year-old Landen Julian Ballard of Vero Beach, Florida
CrimeMay 04, 2026
Pawn Shop Manager Shot, Killed in Florida

Lazaro Rodriguez Vega was murdered inside Cash Out Gold and Silver in Fort Pierce. A 20-year-old man has been charged in the case.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Gild Zadok, Segev Zadok, and Jonathan Zadok at Austin park
IndependentsMay 04, 2026
Zadok Jewelers, Austin Parks Foundation Support Wildflower Preservation

A portion of every engagement ring sold in its Austin showroom will support the care and preservation of Austin’s wildflowers and green spaces.

Weekly QuizApr 30, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Gemist new retailer offering
TechnologyMay 01, 2026
Gemist, Saban Onyx Partner on Retailer-Focused Customization Offering

Their partnership combines Gemist’s customization technology with Saban Onyx’s U.S.-based manufacturing capabilities.

Hand putting gas pump in car
SurveysMay 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Inches Up in April Despite Rising Gas Prices

Respondents were concerned about the Middle East conflict and how it will impact their finances.

lvajws image 1.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2026: Hidden Garden Butterfly Diamond Necklace
CollectionsMay 01, 2026
A ‘Hidden Garden’ Emerges in Tiffany & Co.’s 2026 Blue Book

Our Piece of the Week, the “Butterfly” necklace, showcases a 7.02-carat oval diamond set between diamond, platinum, and 18-karat gold wings.

The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsApr 30, 2026
Peter Smith: A Sleazy Salesman and the Case for Regret Avoidance

Smith uses a comment he overheard in the grocery store to remind retailers that their job is to inspire buying behavior, not just sell.

Claire’s new summer campaign
MajorsApr 30, 2026
Claire’s New Summer Campaign Is a Sensory Wonderland for Gen Alpha

“A Girl SMR at Claire’s” celebrates girlhood through the five senses with stacked jewelry, slime toys, scented accessories, and ASMR.

Cartier London Crash Watch
AuctionsApr 30, 2026
Vintage Cartier Watch Crashes Through Records, Selling for $2M

Believed to be one of three made in 1987, the Cartier London Crash was hot at the “Shapes of Cartier” sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.

Police cars
CrimeApr 30, 2026
Masked Group Uses Hammers, Pepper Spray in Texas Jewelry Store Robbery

Officials are looking for a group that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers at an outlet mall in Round Rock, Texas, in broad daylight on April 21.

OAR26_NJ_bulletin_1872x1052_01.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 30, 2026
OROAREZZO 2026: The B2B Event for Italian Excellence in Goldsmith, Jewelry and Silver Manufacturing

Sponsored by OROAREZZO International Jewelry Exhibition

Tiffany & Co. Mother’s Day email opt out
TechnologyApr 29, 2026
The Thought Process Behind the Mother's Day Email Opt-Out

Some retailers are taking a nuanced approach to marketing what can be a difficult holiday for many.

Dick Abbott
IndependentsApr 29, 2026
Dick Abbott to Retire From The Edge

The Edge has announced its new CEO, as well as a new partnership with an investment firm focused on founder-led software businesses.

The Venetia Diamond Mine in South Africa
SourcingApr 29, 2026
De Beers’ Production Rises, Market Remains ‘Challenged’

De Beers’ diamond production was up 17 percent in Q1, boosted by increased output at its mines in South Africa and Canada.

John Wayne Signet Ring
AuctionsApr 29, 2026
This'll Be the Day You Own John Wayne's Ring

A signet ring belonging to the Western film star of Hollywood’s Golden Age will be up for auction at Elmwood’s next month.

Stock image of money
Policies & IssuesApr 28, 2026
Tariff Refunds: How to File, What to Expect

Importers can submit claims now to receive money back for the IEEPA tariffs they’ve paid, with refunds expected to take up to 90 days.

Gregory's Jewelers storefront
IndependentsApr 28, 2026
This North Carolina Jeweler Is Passing the Torch

The owners of Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, North Carolina, are heading into retirement.

Doug Hucker
SourcingApr 28, 2026
Doug Hucker Retires From ICA

The colored gemstone industry leader is heading into retirement after four years as the association’s CEO.

Natural Diamond Council Chief Marketing Officer Susie Dewey
SourcingApr 28, 2026
NDC Hires Tapestry Exec to Head Global Marketing

Susie Dewey joins the Natural Diamond Council as its new chief marketing officer.

The Ocean Dream diamond
AuctionsApr 27, 2026
12 Years Later, the ‘Ocean Dream’ Diamond Resurfaces at Christie’s

The largest known fancy vivid blue-green diamond could fetch more than $12 million at its second auction appearance.

Smart Age Solutions CEO and National Jeweler columnist Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsApr 27, 2026
Stop Treating Mother’s Day Like an Afterthought

Emmanuel Raheb says jewelers need to start marketing early and make it easy for customers to pick a gift for mom.

Longnecker Jewelry storefront
IndependentsApr 27, 2026
Longnecker Jewelry Celebrates 30 Years

In honor of the milestone, the Nebraska jeweler has debuted Leslie & Co., its new in-house jewelry brand.

Jeff Corey
MajorsApr 27, 2026
JBT Re-Elects Jeff Corey as Board Chair

The trade organization, which held its annual elections earlier this year, also added five new board members.

Fourteen August Irene mom ring
SurveysApr 24, 2026
Mother’s Day 2026 Jewelry Spending to Top $7B, NRF Says

NRF’s annual survey found that 45 percent of consumers plan to purchase jewelry for a loved one this Mother’s Day.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy