GradingJun 03, 2026
GIA’s Tracr Investment Is First Step Toward Industry-Owned PlatformGradingJun 17, 2026
SSEF Issues Warning on Refilled Emeralds
The lab is seeing emeralds with filler added post-testing enter the market, accompanied by reports that indicate little to no treatment.
Pictured is the same emerald—at left, in 2024, and at right, in 2026—photographed after testing by SSEF. The lab said in the time between the photos, the stone “clearly” had been cleaned and refilled with artificial resin. (Photo courtesy of SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF is warning the trade of a fraudulent practice that is circulating in the emerald market.
The lab said it has noticed emeralds it previously had tested resurfacing on the market with filler added post-testing, offered for sale with the original report that indicates little or no clarity modification.
Because most emeralds contain microscopic fractures known as fissures, the use of colorless fillers such as oil, wax, or artificial resin that reduce the visibility of the inclusions is a widely accepted practice in the trade.
However, treatment directly affects an emerald’s value, the lab stated, and disclosure of treatments, including the amount of filler used, is mandatory under the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee guidelines.
Because the high-end market favors stones treated with minimal amounts of oil, or with no clarity modification, many emeralds previously treated with artificial resin are being chemically cleaned with strong solvents to remove the filler, SSEF explained.
After being cleaned, emeralds that display prominent open fissures are submitted to gem labs for testing. Reports are likely to state that no or only minor clarity modification was evident at the time of testing.
The fissures are then being refilled with either with oil or artificial resin after the lab report has been issued and then presented to third parties with a report that states “no or minor clarity modification,” a practice that constitutes fraud, SSEF said.
The report in these cases is misleading, because it no longer reflects the emerald’s current condition.
For this reason, SSEF said it emphasizes on its reports that the document describes the condition of the stone at the time of testing and makes no guarantee about the condition of the stone at any later date.
If fissure filler is detected, SSEF discloses its presence, the amount of filler used, and the identity of the filler substance, such as oil, artificial resin, or wax.
Related stories will be right here …
The lab said it has noticed emeralds it previously had tested resurfacing on the market with filler added post-testing, offered for sale with the original report that indicates little or no clarity modification.
Because most emeralds contain microscopic fractures known as fissures, the use of colorless fillers such as oil, wax, or artificial resin that reduce the visibility of the inclusions is a widely accepted practice in the trade.
However, treatment directly affects an emerald’s value, the lab stated, and disclosure of treatments, including the amount of filler used, is mandatory under the Laboratory Manual Harmonisation Committee guidelines.
Because the high-end market favors stones treated with minimal amounts of oil, or with no clarity modification, many emeralds previously treated with artificial resin are being chemically cleaned with strong solvents to remove the filler, SSEF explained.
After being cleaned, emeralds that display prominent open fissures are submitted to gem labs for testing. Reports are likely to state that no or only minor clarity modification was evident at the time of testing.
The fissures are then being refilled with either with oil or artificial resin after the lab report has been issued and then presented to third parties with a report that states “no or minor clarity modification,” a practice that constitutes fraud, SSEF said.
The report in these cases is misleading, because it no longer reflects the emerald’s current condition.
For this reason, SSEF said it emphasizes on its reports that the document describes the condition of the stone at the time of testing and makes no guarantee about the condition of the stone at any later date.
If fissure filler is detected, SSEF discloses its presence, the amount of filler used, and the identity of the filler substance, such as oil, artificial resin, or wax.
The lab made several recommendations to the trade for emerald buying, adding that any SSEF report can be verified for authenticity and validity on its website.
The lab encouraged buyers to check if a fissured emerald was retested by SSEF before buying it, especially in cases where the report is not recent or the stone appears “visually unusually clean.”
SSEF also warned buyers to be cautious of a clean-looking emerald accompanied by a “no clarity modification” report and encouraged them to have it re-tested.
Sellers should never circulate a report once a stone has been cleaned, refilled or otherwise altered; instead, they should submit the stone for a new report reflecting its current state before they sell it.
SSEF also noted that cleaned or heavily fissured emeralds are fragile and prone to chipping and must be handled with care.
The same treatments and risks apply to any gemstone that contains fissures, the lab added, with rubies being a notable example.
Contact SSEF for retests, to reissue reports, or for questions on emerald treatment and disclosure.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
GradingMay 28, 2026
GCAL By Sarine Launches 8X Cushion Cut
GradingApr 02, 2026
GIA Debuts New Campus in TaiwanMore on Grading
The Latest
EditorsNov 06, 2026
The Spectrum Pieces I Can’t Stop Thinking AboutFrom a Betta fish brooch to a “dragon’s trove” of zircon eggs, here are seven pieces that’ve stuck with Associate Editor Lauren McLemore.
TrendsNov 06, 2026
Pat Pruitt’s DragonFly Earrings Take Flight on Election NightGroundbreaking New Mexico Governor-elect Deb Haaland wore the earrings, our Piece of the Week, when she declared victory on Tuesday.
MajorsNov 06, 2026
SNL’s Colin Jost Finds the Perfect Gift in Kay Jewelers’ Holiday AdJost goes on an epic journey, traversing rough seas and encountering a cyclops, to discover the perfect holiday gift.
Brought to you by
How Overnight Mountings’ Bridal Builder Makes Custom Engagement Ring Design Easier to SellWith customization becoming more expected in engagement ring shopping, the Bridal Builder makes the process tangible.
Supplier BulletinNov 05, 2026
Winning With GCAL 8X®: What’s Working at the CounterSponsored by GCAL by Sarine
Weekly QuizNov 05, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SurveysNov 05, 2026
What Retailers Should Know About Holiday Shoppers This YearFrom shrinking budgets to AI elves, here are five takeaways from holiday reports by Bain, Adobe, Mastercard, NRF, and insights from YouGov.
CollectionsNov 05, 2026
Judi Powers, Russell Jones Unleash Joy With New CollaborationThe designers combined their talents for Little Pet Portraits, hand-painted miniatures of our best friends set in a piece of jewelry.
Brought to you by
A Diamond Is Forever Launches 2026 Holiday Campaign Championing Natural DiamondsA Diamond Is Forever's holiday campaign reimagines natural diamond icons for a new generation celebrating individuality.
FinancialsNov 05, 2026
Brilliant Earth Continued to Resonate With High-Income Shoppers in Q3Its non-bridal fine jewelry remains the star of the show, recently launching new collections inspired by Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Goodall.
MajorsNov 05, 2026
Ariana Grande Stars In Swarovski’s Holiday Campaign“Joy: The Swarovski Musical” features Ariana Grande as the leading lady in scenes inspired by classic musical montages.
CrimeNov 04, 2026
$250K+ in Undeclared Cartier Jewelry Seized at Philadelphia AirportA Pennsylvania woman failed to declare a ring and a bracelet, discarding the boxes and receipts to conceal the purchases, officials said.
FinancialsNov 04, 2026
Pandora’s Q3 Sales Up 7% Amid Focus on DesignNew collections and relevant marketing pushed the company forward, while Pandora’s lab-grown diamond sales continue to lag.
Events & AwardsNov 04, 2026
NYC Jewelry Week 2026 Is the Largest Edition YetThe citywide celebration, slated for Nov. 16-22, is set to host more than 175 events, including live jewelry-making demos.
MajorsNov 04, 2026
Bergdorf Goodman Names New PresidentLanessa Elrod, former president and CEO of Louis Vuitton Americas, has stepped into the role as the retailer celebrates 125 years.
AuctionsNov 03, 2026
Infinity Gauntlet Set With 170+ Carats of Colored Gemstones Up for AuctionA replica of one of the most powerful objects in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the glove is heading to auction next month in Abu Dhabi.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Longtime Jewelry Marketer Arthur Klein Dies at 89Klein, who had his own marketing agency and worked for Gabriel & Co. and Trans American Diamond, is remembered as a kind man.
IndependentsNov 03, 2026
Zadok Jewelers Toasts To 50 Years With Diamond Bracelet GiveawayTo enter the giveaway, locals can purchase a featured beverage from one of eight participating restaurants in Houston and Austin, Texas.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
David Yurman Gem Awards Grant Opens 2027 ApplicationsThe grant recipient will be awarded $50,000 as well as mentoring meetings with executives at David Yurman and other industry executives.
Events & AwardsNov 03, 2026
NAJA, Instappraise Name 2026 Scholarship WinnersThe winners include a non-NAJA member seeking training, a member beginning NAJA courses, and a member becoming a Certified Master Appraiser.
AuctionsNov 02, 2026
197-Carat ‘Romanov Sapphire’ Heads to Sotheby’s GenevaThe rare jewel, which has links to Russia’s Romanov dynasty, is estimated to fetch up to $2 million.
CrimeNov 02, 2026
Customs Seizes More Than 400 Fake Audemars Piguet WatchesIt is one of several seizures of counterfeit jewelry and watches by U.S. Customs and Border Protection officials in Louisville this year.
MajorsNov 02, 2026
Lawrence Bock, Caryl Capeci, Amanda Coleman-Phelps Join JA Board Jewelers of America announced the additions to its board of directors following its annual general meeting, held last week.
CollectionsNov 02, 2026
Olympian Kristi Yamaguchi, Heller Jewelers Expand ‘Always Dream’ CollectionThe jewelry collection supports Yamaguchi’s Always Dream foundation, which provides reading and educational resources to families in need.
Events & AwardsOct 30, 2026
Illuminating Carved Paraiba Pendant, Suite of Moonstones Wow at Spectrum AwardsSpectrum’s “Best of Show” honors went to a 101-carat Paraiba carved to look like Medusa that has a magnet-activated LED light.
TrendsOct 30, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Pendants Say ‘Eye’m Watching You’Our Halloween Pieces of the Week are four “Eye” pendants, each set with colorful gemstones.
MajorsOct 30, 2026
The RealReal Hires Former eBay Exec as New Chief Merchandising OfficerAlexis Hoopes expanded eBay’s “Authenticity Guarantee” program during her tenure.
WatchesOct 29, 2026
Bucherer Opens Rolex Boutique in Washington StateThe Rolex-owned retailer’s new 4,700-square-foot store’s façade honors the Pacific Northwest’s evergreen forests.
