CrimeAug 31, 2026
$4M Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Necklace Snatched From Vienna Museum Once the property of an Egyptian queen, the necklace was part of a larger exhibition of VCA jewelry at the Museum of Applied Arts (MAK).
GradingJun 02, 2020
SSEF Now Offers Coral ‘DNA Fingerprinting’ Services
Researchers discovered a new methodology using minute amounts of coral DNA material to identify the species.
New DNA fingerprinting technology from SSEF and the University of Zurich will help identify precious coral in jewelry, as in this necklace featuring 55 beads from the Mediterranean Corallium rubrum species. (Photo credit: SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—A breakthrough study about DNA fingerprinting for precious coral has led to a new service offered by the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) to identify coral species.
Researchers from SSEF and the University of Zurich’s Institute of Forensic Medicine recently published “DNA fingerprinting: an effective tool for taxonomic identification of precious corals in jewelry” in leading peer review journal Scientific Reports.
According to SSEF, the new methodology detailed in the article uses minute amounts of DNA recovered from precious coral to identify its species.
This is important because several precious coral species are listed on the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species and need to be correctly identified and declared to be legally traded.
The DNA fingerprinting technology is minimally destructive, SSEF said, requiring “considerably less sample material” than other methods, with testable DNA being recovered from as little as 2.3 milligrams (0.0115 carats) of material.
SSEF’s Laurent Cartier told National Jeweler the coral material should be submitted loose for testing so the lab can access it properly; coral material strung on a necklace or in cabochon form could be unmounted, he added.
As with all scientific techniques, there are some limits—Cartier said if there is too little DNA or the DNA is too degraded, it won’t work.
But he added there are no other methods currently for conclusively identifying coral species, “so this can still be considered a breakthrough.” And, it has worked on all the samples SSEF has tested so far.
Cartier said they continue to improve the research and methodology as well as add material to their collection to provide a reference for comparison.
SSEF research, in fact, led them to discover a coral variety previously unknown as a species used in the jewelry trade: pleurocorallium niveum.
The lab’s testing will always be done in combination with other techniques routinely applied to coral, like trace-element chemistry and Raman spectroscopy, to give the lab access to new information, SSEF said.
The new coral identification service is being offered in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine at the University of Zurich.
For additional information and details, read the full article about the study on Nature.com or visit the SSEF website.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
More on Grading
The Latest
Events & AwardsAug 31, 2026
Wisconsin Museum to Host Jewelry Exhibition“Chicago Collects: Jewelry in Perspective” at the Oshkosh Public Museum will feature works by Fabergé, Lalique, and Louis Comfort Tiffany.
CollectionsAug 31, 2026
Catbird Launches First Men’s Jewelry CollectionThe “Worn Well” collection is Catbird's take on classic men's jewelry.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
CollectionsAug 28, 2026
Dolly Parton Would Have Loved This Butterfly Necklace This Buddha Mama butterfly is our Piece of the Week honoring the legend, who embraced the beautiful insect as her symbol.
Weekly QuizAug 27, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingAug 28, 2026
Gareth Penny to Give Opening Speech at CIBJO Centenary CongressThe former De Beers CEO, and perhaps its next owner, will be a featured speaker at the event, slated for Sept. 4-7 in Italy.
IndependentsAug 28, 2026
Day’s Jewelers Honored With 3 Workplace AwardsThe employee-owned jeweler was named a “Best Place to Work” in Maine, New Hampshire, and for women.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
CollectionsAug 27, 2026
Pandora Expands ‘Talisman’ Collection as Lawsuit Continues The second iteration of the jewelry collection was inspired by the zodiac and the four elements: earth, water, air and fire.
SourcingAug 27, 2026
OFAC Renews License Allowing Import of ‘Grandfathered’ Russian Diamonds General License 104B supersedes General License 104A, which was set to expire on Sept. 1.
CrimeAug 27, 2026
Customs Seizes Nearly 900 Pieces of Counterfeit JewelryThe package, intercepted in Indianapolis, contained fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef and Arpels jewelry.
IndependentsAug 27, 2026
Jessica McCormack to Open First West Coast StoreThe new location in Costa Mesa, California, marks the brand’s second store in the United States and fourth standalone location worldwide.
FinancialsAug 27, 2026
Movado’s Q2 Sales Up As Younger Consumers Take Interest in WatchesThe fashion watch category was once threatened by the Apple Watch, but consumers are now opting for new wearables, said Movado’s CEO.
SurveysAug 26, 2026
5 Jewelry Insights From The RealReal’s Resale ReportThe report delves into trending styles, the most popular jewelry brands by city, and why Belle Époque jewelry could be the next big thing.
Lab-GrownAug 26, 2026
AGTA Now Requiring Members to Call Lab-Grown Gems ‘Synthetic’The association added the requirement to its revised "Code of Ethics" and released the 17th edition of its “Gemstone Information Manual.”
SurveysAug 26, 2026
Consumer Confidence Dips in August Amid Anticipatory Anxieties Respondents were concerned about the future of the labor market and their income as well as the rising prices of gas and groceries.
TrendsAug 26, 2026
Boucheron’s New Campaign Celebrates Its ‘Question Mark’ NecklacesThe campaign highlights the asymmetrical high jewelry necklace style that the jeweler first created in 1879.
Events & AwardsAug 26, 2026
Harry Winston Exhibition to Open in ShanghaiIt will explore the life of “The King of Diamonds” and showcase more than 165 creations from the brand.
CrimeAug 25, 2026
Florida Woman Scammed Out of $1.5M in Jewelry, Precious MetalsTwo suspects have been arrested in connection with the complex phone scam.
ColumnistsAug 25, 2026
Proof Before Purchase: The Gen Z Way to BuyIn her first column for National Jeweler, Jennifer Shaheen asks jewelers if they know how to connect with the next generation of consumers.
Events & AwardsAug 25, 2026
SSEF Opens 2026 Applications for Gemology Education ScholarshipsThe annual awards cover tuition for an on-site educational course at the Swiss lab, as well as flights and lodging.
TrendsAug 25, 2026
Brent Neale Celebrates Blackberry Farm’s Anniversary With JewelryThe jeweler partnered with the Tennessee resort to honor its 50th anniversary with limited-edition blackberry pendants and earrings.
EditorsAug 24, 2026
Q&A: Reeds Jewelers VP Genna Zimmer on 80 Years in BusinessThe third-generation jeweler shared how the North Carolina retailer is celebrating this milestone and the love story that started it all.
Events & AwardsAug 24, 2026
Rio Grande, MetalWerx Host Argentium Silver WorkshopThe class, led by renowned metalsmith Cynthia Eid, highlighted Argentium silver as an alternative to gold amid high prices.
Events & AwardsAug 24, 2026
JIS Miami Opens Fall 2026 RegistrationThe show is slated for Oct. 16-19 at the Miami Beach Convention Center.
CollectionsAug 24, 2026
Francesca Villa Honors Napoleon, His Empresses In New CapsuleThe “Empresses” capsule uses 19th-century medals depicting Napoleon, Joséphine, and Marie-Louise across five one-of-a-kind pieces.
SurveysAug 21, 2026
These Are 2026’s Hottest Retailers, Says NRFThe retailers at the top of the list offer affordable products and fun, discovery-fueled experiences.
