TrendsApr 17, 2026
New (Groundbreaking) Floral Jewelry for Spring 2026Flower motifs are the jewelry trend blooming amongst the new collections that debuted this spring.
GradingJun 02, 2020
SSEF Now Offers Coral ‘DNA Fingerprinting’ Services
Researchers discovered a new methodology using minute amounts of coral DNA material to identify the species.
New DNA fingerprinting technology from SSEF and the University of Zurich will help identify precious coral in jewelry, as in this necklace featuring 55 beads from the Mediterranean Corallium rubrum species. (Photo credit: SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—A breakthrough study about DNA fingerprinting for precious coral has led to a new service offered by the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) to identify coral species.
Researchers from SSEF and the University of Zurich’s Institute of Forensic Medicine recently published “DNA fingerprinting: an effective tool for taxonomic identification of precious corals in jewelry” in leading peer review journal Scientific Reports.
According to SSEF, the new methodology detailed in the article uses minute amounts of DNA recovered from precious coral to identify its species.
This is important because several precious coral species are listed on the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species and need to be correctly identified and declared to be legally traded.
The DNA fingerprinting technology is minimally destructive, SSEF said, requiring “considerably less sample material” than other methods, with testable DNA being recovered from as little as 2.3 milligrams (0.0115 carats) of material.
SSEF’s Laurent Cartier told National Jeweler the coral material should be submitted loose for testing so the lab can access it properly; coral material strung on a necklace or in cabochon form could be unmounted, he added.
As with all scientific techniques, there are some limits—Cartier said if there is too little DNA or the DNA is too degraded, it won’t work.
But he added there are no other methods currently for conclusively identifying coral species, “so this can still be considered a breakthrough.” And, it has worked on all the samples SSEF has tested so far.
Cartier said they continue to improve the research and methodology as well as add material to their collection to provide a reference for comparison.
SSEF research, in fact, led them to discover a coral variety previously unknown as a species used in the jewelry trade: pleurocorallium niveum.
The lab’s testing will always be done in combination with other techniques routinely applied to coral, like trace-element chemistry and Raman spectroscopy, to give the lab access to new information, SSEF said.
The new coral identification service is being offered in partnership with the Institute of Forensic Medicine at the University of Zurich.
For additional information and details, read the full article about the study on Nature.com or visit the SSEF website.
More on Grading
The Latest
MajorsApr 17, 2026
QVC Group Files for Chapter 11 BankruptcyThe retailer reported an 8 percent decline in annual sales as it struggles under the weight of billions of dollars of debt.
CollectionsApr 17, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Earrings Are the Devil on Your ShoulderThe “Devil” drop earrings, our Piece of the Week, are part of designer Edina Kiss’ new namesake jewelry line that she will show at Couture.
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las VegasGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
CrimeApr 17, 2026
FBI Issues Warning to Refineries, Retailers Due to High Price of GoldThe alert states that burglary crews are targeting jewelry businesses and details how jewelers and refineries can protect themselves.
Weekly QuizApr 16, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
WatchesApr 16, 2026
Cartier Brings Back the RoadsterThe “watchmaker of shapes” debuted the reworked version of the vintage sports car-inspired timepiece at Watches & Wonders.
IndependentsApr 16, 2026
Edge Retail Academy Updates Leadership TeamAs demand for jewelry retail coaching grows, the company has established a dedicated business coaching leadership team.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
MajorsApr 16, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Mountings Catalog Is Out NowThe “Mountings 2026-2027” catalog showcases Stuller’s largest and most diverse assortment to date with more than 400 new mounting styles.
PodcastsApr 15, 2026
Episode 4: The Natural Diamond DilemmaSally Morrison and Mark Klein discuss De Beers’ first beacon in 16 years and the mistake the industry made with lab-grown diamonds.
MajorsApr 15, 2026
Spark Creations’ Randy McKenzie Dies at 72 McKenzie spent 45 years with Spark Creations and is remembered for being kind, dedicated, and hardworking.
WatchesApr 15, 2026
These Are the New Rolex Watches for 2026Rolex focused exclusively on the Oyster Perpetual this year, as the model is celebrating its 100th anniversary.
FinancialsApr 15, 2026
Kering’s Jewelry Shines in Q1, Gucci’s Struggle ContinuesThe luxury giant discussed the Middle East conflict and its transformation plans, hinting at a stronger jewelry presence in North America.
SourcingApr 15, 2026
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2026 BoardKalpesh Jhaveri was re-elected as president for a third year.
TechnologyApr 15, 2026
This Jewelry Brand’s Video Series Is Up for a Webby Award“Diamond Divas,” a social media reality series by Shahla Karimi Jewelry, is nominated in the “Best Social: Fashion & Beauty” category.
SourcingApr 14, 2026
De Beers Expands ‘Desert Diamonds’ Beacon Into BridalThe campaign seeks to reignite desire for natural diamond engagement rings by highlighting the “distinct character” of warm-toned diamonds.
FinancialsApr 14, 2026
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Sink 6% Amid Middle East ConflictPlus, how Saks Global’s bankruptcy affected the luxury giant’s first quarter.
SourcingApr 14, 2026
International Jade Summit to Return to MontereyPresented by Mason-Kay Jade, the summit, in its second year, will again be held during the Monterey Bay Jade Festival.
Events & AwardsApr 14, 2026
CBG Releases Details for Las Vegas ShowThe group has announced its lineup of speakers and a new “Rising Stars” pavilion.
CollectionsApr 13, 2026
Uniform Object’s New Jewelry Collection Centers on the ‘Carbon Form’The “Carbon Form” collection explores the contrast between high and low materials, using rubber cord alongside 18-karat gold and gemstones.
Events & AwardsApr 13, 2026
JA Accepting 2026 Impact Initiative ApplicationsThe program provides essential funding to organizations for projects that enhance the jewelry industry.
Events & AwardsApr 13, 2026
Couture Announces New Show in MiamiThe jewelry trade show is launching its first open-to-the-public event in Coconut Grove this November.
CrimeApr 13, 2026
JSA Offers Reward in Oregon Jewelry Store Armed RobberyJSA is seeking information about the gunpoint robbery of a Kay Jewelers location in Oregon’s Washington Square Mall.
WatchesApr 10, 2026
These Watches Have Increased in Value the Most Since 2018, Says Chrono24The top-performing watch models may be surprising, with Rolex and several popular pandemic-era picks notably absent from the top 20.
CollectionsApr 10, 2026
Ophelia Eve’s Toggle Pendant Holds Your SecretsThe “Scroll” toggle pendant, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal a hidden message, mantra, or love letter written on washi paper.
ColumnistsApr 09, 2026
Jewelry Demand Isn’t Stronger, Prices Are Just Higher Jewelers who misinterpret the state of the jewelry market risk employing the wrong retail strategy, cautions columnist Sherry Smith.
MajorsApr 09, 2026
Tiffany & Co. Promotes Nathalie Verdeille to SVP, Chief Artistic OfficerIn her newly expanded role, she will continue to oversee the jewelry category, as well as watches, home, and accessories.
