ColumnistsMay 12, 2026
It’s Official: We’re Getting ‘Brain Rot’ From Watching Short-Form Videos Peter Smith gives tips on leading meetings, developing marketing, and making trade show appointments in the age of short attention spans.
TrendsAug 20, 2014
The History Behind … eye miniatures
In this new monthly feature, National Jeweler editors delve into the when, where and why of antique jewelry. August’s focus is on eye miniatures, which first became popular in the 1770s.
Some eye miniatures also were mourning jewelry, such as this brooch. The black enamel with gray seed pearls symbolize tears, and the clouds painted around the eye symbolize a passage to heaven, which mark this as a mourning piece.
New York--People generally have one of two reactions when they see an eye miniature staring back at them.
“People either love them or think they are just beautiful, or people think they are creepy,” says Cathy Gordon, an antique jewelry collector and a co-author of Miriam Haskell Jewelry. “People will see them and say, ‘That is very strange.’”
Eye miniatures first began appearing in artists’ logbooks in the 1770s and retained their popularity for nearly 100 years.
In this second installment of The History Behind … , National Jeweler explores the when, where and why of eye miniatures with Gordon, who supports her antique jewelry collecting “habit” by working at Google.
What are eye miniatures? Members of the upper class, first in France then in the U.K., commissioned artists to paint portraits of a loved one’s eye only and had them set into brooches, pendants or rings, sometimes surrounded by gemstones.
Eye miniatures also were put onto toothpick cases and patch boxes (when eye miniatures were popular, many members of the upper class carried small decals with them, which sometimes were used to hide smallpox scars), Gordon says.
These pieces also are known as miniature eye portraits or “Lover’s Eye” jewelry, though Gordon notes the latter is a misnomer, as these portraits weren’t always necessarily of one’s lover. They could depict the eye of a family member or someone else close to the wearer.
When were they popular? The earliest eye miniatures recorded in artists’ log books surfaced in the 1770s and their popularity continued until the 1850s, ceasing as photography became more widespread and the public’s fascination with these eye-only paintings began to wane. “It was a fad, to some extent,” Gordon says.
She adds that the eye miniature did enjoy a very brief revival during the Arts and Crafts movement (about 1880 to 1930), as she has a miniature of a man’s eye dated 1903 in her collection.
Why did people wear eye miniatures? Part of the broader category of sentimental jewelry, the wealthy wore eye miniatures to emphasize friendships or alliances, ease the absence of a loved one who was far away and serve as a reminder of those who had died.
Eye miniature mourning pieces are recognizable by engraved and dated inscriptions; the eye surrounded by clouds (signifying a passage into heaven) or by black or white enamel; symbols of mourning
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
such as a funerary urn; and in some instances, pearls (symbolizing tears).
What materials were used for these pieces? Here’s where eye miniatures pose a problem for collectors today: they typically were painted on either velum or Asian elephant ivory.
Because of federal ban on the commercial trade of elephant ivory, Gordon says it is extremely difficult to import eye miniatures painted on ivory into the United States today, even when there is appropriate certification and engraved dates on the piece proving it is an antique.
(According to the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, pieces that existed in the U.S. prior to the ban, which took effect in April, may be sold across state lines except in New York and New Jersey, which have banned the sale of elephant ivory. Under these state laws, antiques comprised of less than 20 percent elephant ivory can be sold but it requires the proper permit and proof of provenance.)
Pearls were the most commonly used stone for eye miniatures. Garnets and amethysts also were popular, as were coral and turquoise. Diamonds were used but rarely, Gordon says.
How much are eye miniatures worth? Retail prices range from $2,500 for a more simple miniature to $10,000 for pieces that have more sophisticated portraits and/or more gemstones.
How can a retailer add eye miniatures to their antique jewelry offerings? Given the complex laws surrounding ivory and the existence of fakes, Gordon gives advice for retailers that is good to follow across all product categories: find a trusted supplier.
Two Gordon recommends are Lenore Dailey and The Three Graces.
“There are many, many fakes out there,” she cautions.
She says some are portraits that have been generated on very high-quality, modern printers while others were cut out from full-sized portraits and remounted falsely as eye miniatures. One word of advice: if there’s a nose, it’s an indication that it’s probably not a genuine miniature but, rather, was part of a larger portrait at one time.
The History Behind … is a new monthly feature for National Jeweler that aims to educate readers on antique jewelry. The September feature will focus on Georgian-era mourning jewelry.
More on Trends
The Latest
CollectionsMay 12, 2026
Jessica McCormack Debuts Antique Coin-Inspired Medallions for SummerThe 11-piece “Medallions” capsule collection features five motifs: a crying eye, a heart on fire, a spiral, a flower, and a swallow.
IndependentsMay 12, 2026
State of Retail: 6 Things Retailers Should Know About Consumers TodayFrom Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
Events & AwardsMay 12, 2026
The Tiffany & Co. x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award Is BackThe partners have announced the second cycle of the program, which has expanded to include a $25,000 student scholarship.
Weekly QuizMay 07, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsMay 11, 2026
Kansas Jeweler Closing After 70 YearsThe owners of Staats Jewelers are heading into retirement.
TechnologyMay 11, 2026
Clientbook’s New Tool Helps Jewelers Plan In-Store EventsThe new module allows retailers to plan, promote, and measure the success of events from a single dashboard.
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las VegasGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
Lab-GrownMay 08, 2026
NDC Publicly Criticizes Pandora Over ‘Misleading’ Natural Diamond ClaimsNDC said in an open letter that Pandora’s statements about the carbon footprint of lab grown versus natural diamonds are inaccurate.
SourcingMay 08, 2026
Ronnie VanderLinden Takes Over as WDC President The diamantaire and industry leader succeeds Feriel Zerouki and said he will focus on being a “champion” for natural diamonds.
TrendsMay 08, 2026
Rihanna Chooses ‘Desert Diamonds’ for 2026 Met GalaShe wore our Piece of the Week, Glenn Spiro’s “Old Moghul Golconda” earrings, featuring fancy brown-yellow diamonds totaling 51.90 carats.
Events & AwardsMay 08, 2026
JA Announces 2026 CASE Award WinnersTwo pieces were named “Best in Show,” one from the retail category and one from the supplier category.
FinancialsMay 07, 2026
Brilliant Earth Appeals to Higher-Income Shoppers in Q1The jewelry retailer noted resilience among its higher-end customers while demand softened for its lower-priced offerings.
AuctionsMay 07, 2026
‘Spectacular’ Kashmir Sapphire Headlines Heritage Spring Jewelry SaleLed by the 6.59-carat sapphire, the sale garnered $9.7 million, a record total for a Heritage jewelry auction.
MajorsMay 07, 2026
Gannon & Scott Names New Regional Account ExecutiveIn his new role, sales specialist Billy Welshoff will focus on the eastern United States.
WatchesMay 07, 2026
Chrono24 Names New CEOJosé Gaztelu has been promoted to the role, which has been vacant since last year.
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2026
JA Accepting Applications for 2026 Scholarship ProgramIt has also opened the application period for the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship through June 30.
SourcingMay 06, 2026
Canada’s Oldest Diamond Mine Faces Uncertain FutureThe owner of the Ekati mine, which opened in 1998, has filed for insolvency protection amid the significant decline in diamond prices.
FinancialsMay 06, 2026
Pandora to Add Carbon Footprint Info to Lab-Grown DiamondsThe company announced the change alongside its Q1 results, which showed that the jewelry brand’s year is off to a shaky start.
MajorsMay 06, 2026
Saks Global Begins Layoffs, Reorganization Plans Closer to ApprovalThe retailer will cut 16 percent of its corporate workforce as part of its plan to exit bankruptcy.
AuctionsMay 06, 2026
Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco Watch Heads to Sotheby'sOf the many examples used in the filming of “Le Mans,” this one is believed to have spent the most time on Steve McQueen’s wrist.
EditorsMay 05, 2026
This Ohio Designer’s Jewelry Made It to the Met GalaMegan Piccione dressed Lauren Wasser in layers of diamond jewelry, making her stand out in a crowd that included celebrities like Beyoncé.
SourcingMay 05, 2026
Doug Hucker Returns to His RootsFollowing decades of association leadership, the “semi-retired” colored gemstone expert is turning his focus to gemstone education.
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
AMNH to Showcase Famous Jewelry, Trophies in Sports HistoryThe museum’s new exhibition will feature one of Jesse Owen’s Olympic medals, Yogi Berra’s crown, Super Bowl rings, and more.
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
JIS Launches Brand Exposure ProgramThe new program provides access to media exposure and editorial opportunities for exhibitors and retailers.
CollectionsMay 04, 2026
Melanie Georgacopoulos Turns Pearls Into Light for ‘Eclipse’ CollectionThe “Eclipse” jewelry collection captures the fleeting moment where light and shadow align though onyx, diamonds, and freshwater pearls.
ColumnistsMay 04, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show BuyingBuying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.
