The “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.
Hemmerle Auction Smashes Pre-Sale Estimates
All but one lot exceeded predictions, with some selling for more than five times their estimated ranges.

London—The Sotheby’s London Fine Jewels auction last week showed a strong demand for signed pieces from contemporary jewelry masters.
Each of the 12 one-of-a-kind jewels from the largest single-owner Hemmerle collection to be offered at auction sold, with all but one exceeding their pre-sale price ranges and some going for five times those amounts.
The most expensive jewel sold was the above necklace with a blackened silver chain, tsavorite garnet links and an early 19th century jasper cameo pendant, surrounded by emeralds and tsavorites.
It smashed its pre-sale estimates of $18,500 to $24,600, selling for $144,855.
The above pair of pineapple-shaped earrings featuring large gray and orange-brown old-mine-cut diamonds and 19th century cameos—expected to earn between $24,600 and $36,900—earned a cool $88,523.
A diamond and colored diamond pendant necklace and brooch, meanwhile, fetched $80,475, compared with its $51,504 to $77,256 pre-sale estimate, and a pair of tourmaline and green sapphire earrings upended its $9,013 to $11,588 estimate when it garnered $64,380.
The above diamond brooches, which convert to hair clips, garnered $56,333, compared with their $25,752 to $38,628 estimated price range, while the below spinel and pink sapphire earrings sold for an impressive $48,285, compared with their $12,876 to $19,314 pre-sale expectation.
The bidding wars didn’t stop there.
A pair of lava cameo and colored diamonds earrings earned $48,285—compared with their $12,876 to $19,314 estimate—and a campy sapphire and diamond Mickey Mouse brooch sold for $45,066, though it was only expected to fetch between $15,451 and $23,177.
A pair of emerald and tsavorite garnet earrings predicted to earn between $10,301 and $15,451 sold for $45,066, and a pair of tourmaline, sapphire and emerald earrings expected to sell for between $12,876 and $19,314 fetched $41,847.
A pair of colored diamond earrings were the sole Hemmerle lot to fall within their estimated price range ($25,752-$38,628), selling for $32,190.
A separate pair of lava cameo and colored diamond earrings from the pair mentioned above, meanwhile, earned $28,971, though they were predicted to sell for between $12,876 and $19,314.
Hemmerle is a fourth-generation jewelry house based in Munich, Germany. The jeweler makes a biannual stateside visit to TEFAF in New York City.
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