Trends

The History Behind … Signet Rings

TrendsSep 07, 2016

The History Behind … Signet Rings

Once used as seals and still embraced by today’s jewelry designers, signet rings have held an enduring allure throughout the ages.

20160901_TheHistoryBehindSignets-4.jpg
This engraved gold ring was made between 1600 and 1650 A.D. in England. The Victoria and Albert Museum acquired it from a prolific 19th century British ring collector, Edmund Waterton. (© Victoria and Albert Museum, London)
New York--Signet rings are having a moment in jewelry design.

Or perhaps it’s more accurate to say that they’re having a millennium, though even that is an understatement; signet rings have been in existence since before the Bible.
 
Signet rings have graced the fingers of Egyptian queens and Shakespeare, said jewelry expert and editor Lori Ettlinger Gross, noting that in antiquity the rings “were worn and used by anyone who had some kind of social standing and land ownership.”

For a little context on the ubiquitous style, National Jeweler spoke with Gross and historian Emily Stoehrer of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, as well as contemporary jewelry designers who are embracing the signet ring now.

How far back do signet rings date?
“In our collection alone,” Stoehrer said of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston’s permanent archives, “we have (signet rings) that go back to ancient Mesopotamia, ancient Egypt and ancient Nubia.”

This ring was excavated from Sudan (what was ancient Nubia) by the Harvard University--Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition in 1923. It is dated to the Meroitic Period, between 40 B.C. - 40 A.D. It was recovered from the debris of a plundered burial and features an engraving of two mummied figures in gold. Image courtesy of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
This ring was excavated from Sudan (what was ancient Nubia) by the Harvard University--Boston Museum of Fine Arts Expedition in 1923. It is dated to the Meroitic Period, between 40 B.C. - 40 A.D. It was recovered from the debris of a plundered burial and features an engraving of two mummied figures in gold. Image courtesy of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

She said that ancient signet rings have been found primarily in the Mediterranean region, stretching as far as Nubia, or what is now Sudan.

Gross said that signet rings were prevalent enough in human culture that they were mentioned in the Bible, “specifically The Book of Esther, which talks about Persian King Ahasuerus’s signet ring.”

“While the Bible may or may not be taken as entirely factual,” Gross continued, “the way people used and wore them traditionally is useful information that we can culturally rely on.”

What are the details of the ring’s origins; what was its function?
Signet rings were typically made entirely of gold or featured carved gemstones, or intaglios.

“They were really used as a signature would be used today, as a way of leaving your mark and a way of assuring authenticity,” Stoehrer said. “You could mark a document with them, you could leave an impression in wax or clay.”

This Roman ring is dated from 100 - 200 A.D. It’s made of gold with an onyx intaglio depicting an ant, which was the symbol of Roman goddess Ceres. It is thought to have been intended to bring prosperity to its wearer. Similar styles have been found with bear and bee symbols. (© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ) | Roman signet ring, VA Museum London
This Roman ring is dated from 100 - 200 A.D. It’s made of gold with an onyx intaglio depicting an ant, which was the symbol of Roman goddess Ceres. It is thought to have been intended to bring prosperity to its wearer. Similar styles have been found with bear and bee symbols. (© Victoria and Albert Museum, London ) | Roman signet ring, VA Museum London

“Signet rings were used as seals,” Gross explained, “as a symbol or mark of the hand that sent or signed a document. Wax was melted onto the document and the top of the ring was impressed into the wax, leaving a clear and permanent mark. The top of the ring was usually set with a hardstone that had been deeply engraved with some kind of symbol or depiction.”

To denote the ring’s wearer, signets were comprised of “identifying marks” according to Stoehrer, like coats of arms, monograms, family seals or initials.

During which historical periods were signet rings most popular?
Signet rings were used from ancient times through the early 19th century, Gross said.

Yet even as more people became literate and the use of signet rings as document seals declined, the pieces maintained their popularity.

This ring from the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum is a prime example of a signet’s reuse. The Roman intaglio, carved in jasper, dates to the third century CE and was reset in this gold ring design in the 13th century. (© Victoria and Albert Museum, London) | Signet ring from VA Museum, London
This ring from the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum is a prime example of a signet’s reuse. The Roman intaglio, carved in jasper, dates to the third century CE and was reset in this gold ring design in the 13th century. (© Victoria and Albert Museum, London) | Signet ring from VA Museum, London

Gross explained, “During the late 19th century, (signet) rings became more of a status symbol, rather than a legal mark. The tops of the rings had decoration or engraving (and) often were gem set, or if they were metal intensive, they bore initials done in shallow-yet-decorative engraving. You could probably say that it was in the 19th century that signet rings became more of a personal statement.”

Stoehrer noted that the signet style was most popular in antiquity, with a resurgence in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance period.

“In (the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston’s) collection of carved gems we have a lot of ancient carved gems that have been set in rings (from the Middle Ages). We see these gemstones being reused by subsequent generations to become more of a fashionable style rather than a signature.”

Stoehrer added that the practice of repurposing gems in updated jewelry styles wasn’t necessarily a new practice in the Middle Ages. “We know that things like cameos were being reused and set into new pieces of jewelry as early as the third century B.C.,” she said.

The Modern Interpretation
Today’s signet rings aren’t dissimilar to ancient styles. Many embrace the personalized aspect of signet rings, engraving them with customers’ monograms or the initials of their loved ones, a practice which “makes memories wearable,” according to Single Stone designers Ari and Corina Madilian.

Ariel Gordon has built her fine jewelry business on the nostalgic appeal of custom jewelry like engraved signet rings. She feels that personalization lends an importance to jewelry that goes beyond accessorizing.

“Most of the jewels in my personal uniform are custom engraved or set with birthstones for my loved ones,” said Gordon. “It feels more deliberate this way and less like I’m just piling things on for no reason. A signet ring is the pinnacle of personalized jewelry.”

Designer Elisa Solomon, who makes an oval-shaped signet ring in her signature organic, handmade style said, “I often inscribe (signet rings) with a bride’s married monogram or the first initial of a newborn’s name; I have also created pieces with specific birthstones. I love that they connect to a person’s individuality.”

Many designers noted the automatic heirloom status of a piece of jewelry that has been personalized to represent its wearer.

“My secret hope is that my customers view my designs as modern heirlooms to be passed down through generations, as so many of those seals were in the past,” said Delphine Leymarie, whose skull signet ring invokes the macabre mood of many historical designs.

Letters by Zoe designer Stephanie Hayoun said, “I personally possess my ancestors’ signet rings and love their simple and historic beauty and the tangible link it affords me to my family.”

The Next Incarnation 
Foundrae designer Beth Bugdaycay constructed an entire range of fine jewelry around enamel-adorned signet rings with inscriptions and images that are talisman-like in their symbolism. 

“The cigar bands and signet rings were the very first pieces designed,” she said. “They embodied the idea of creating future heirlooms that capture at least a piece of (a woman’s) story and ideally help to inspire her next chapter.”

Designer Alison Chemla, of the brand Alison Lou, has done the most with signet rings in terms of modernizing the design and adapting the classic style to a uniquely 21st century point of view. Her playful, emoji-inspired offerings are at their wittiest in her hefty signet styles that feel as luxurious as they do clever. 

“Playing with classic jewelry norms is something I do often in my designs,” said Chemla. “I love the history behind (signet rings) and the way that they look; however, instead of using my signet rings as a seal of identification, I’ve made them a seal of your personality.” 

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Jemma Wynne Forme Toggle Necklace
CollectionsJul 25, 2025
Piece of the Week: Jemma Wynne’s ‘Forme’ Necklace

Anne Hathaway was seen wearing the toggle necklace three times while filming scenes for “The Devil Wears Prada 2.”

September Hong Kong jewelry show
Events & AwardsJul 25, 2025
Pre-Registration Open for September Hong Kong Show

Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong is scheduled for Sept. 15 to 21, and buyer pre-registration will be available until Sept. 7.

Bulgari Celestial Mosaic spinel necklace
FinancialsJul 25, 2025
LVMH Sales Slip in H1 Amid ‘Prevailing Uncertainties’

Renovations at Tiffany & Co. stores ate into profits in the company’s watch and jewelry division.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Mark and Candy Udell
Events & AwardsJul 24, 2025
2 Retailers to Receive 2026 Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement

Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers will receive the honor at the 24th annual Gem Awards next March.

Weekly QuizJul 25, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
De Beers marine mining vessel the SS Nujoma
SourcingJul 24, 2025
De Beers Sees Diamond Production Sink 36% in Q2

While struggles continue at the mining and trading end of the pipeline, consumer demand for diamond jewelry is holding steady.

Francesca Villa Fantasia Collection The Crab Pendant, The Mermaid Pendant, Keep Dancing Seahorse Pendant, Keep Dancing Ladybug Pendant, Secret Dreams Pendant, The Puffer Fish Takes Flight Pendant
CollectionsJul 24, 2025
Francesca Villa Adds Dimension to Her Intaglio Characters

The “Fantasia” jewelry collection turns the intaglio animals from her “Close Encounters” collection into 3D characters.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Breitling’s special Eagles Super Bowl watch on gold bracelet
WatchesJul 24, 2025
Breitling Drops Super Bowl Watch Honoring the Philadelphia Eagles

The special Classic Avi Chronograph 42 with an Eagles-green dial is limited to 59 pieces, a nod to the Super Bowl Philadelphia just won.

Stock image of crime scene tape
CrimeJul 23, 2025
JSA Warns of Violent String of Smash-and-Grabs in California

JSA has received reports of mobs swarming jewelry stores, driving cars into the storefront or smashing through the windows.

Silvia Furmanovich Kasmir Collection Carnelian Bracelet and Sketch
CollectionsJul 23, 2025
Silvia Furmanovich’s ‘Kashmir’ Collection Is a Tribute to Northern India

The “Kashmir” collection features centuries-old craft techniques made in collaboration with the region’s master papier-mâché artisans.

Bench jeweler holding a bracelet and a tool
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
Montreal’s Ecksand Eyes Move to SoHo

Creative Director Erica Bianchini shared why the jeweler is looking to expand into the U.S. and how it’s putting Canadian craftsmanship on the map.

LAFD Fire Station 44 and Fire Station 16
IndependentsJul 23, 2025
IJO Raises Nearly $37K for LA Fire Relief

Two Los Angeles Fire Department stations plan to use the donations to upgrade their equipment and tools.

A Vanitas by Hannah Martin and Guy Berryman Sothebys
CollectionsJul 22, 2025
Jewelry With a Rock ‘n’ Roll Aesthetic Heads to Sotheby’s London

Next week, the auction house will kick off a selling exhibition of jewelry by British artist Hannah Martin and Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.

Cover of the book “Flawless: Inside the Largest Diamond Heist in History”
SourcingJul 22, 2025
Antwerp Diamond Heist Documentary Coming to Netflix

“Stolen: Heist of the Century” is based on “Flawless,” the book about the middle-of-the-night theft, and will debut on Netflix in August.

Emmanuel Raheb
ColumnistsJul 22, 2025
The Gifting Gap: How to Market Jewelry Beyond the Holidays

Emmanuel Raheb shares the top five gifting moments outside of major holidays that jewelers should build marketing campaigns around.

NY Now
Events & AwardsJul 22, 2025
NY Now’s Summer Market Returns in August

The wholesale trade show’s Luxury Lifestyle section will showcase established and emerging jewelry designers.

Jeweler setting a diamond into a ring
MajorsJul 21, 2025
Rio Grande Expands Personalization Offerings

As demand for custom jewelry grows, the company is expanding its services to support retailers.

National Associate of Jewelry Appraisers Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
NAJA’s 2025 ‘Ace It’ Conference To Go Virtual

The mid-year conference for jewelry and watch appraisers is slated for Aug. 9 to 10 on Zoom.

24th Gem Awards Show Logo
Events & AwardsJul 21, 2025
Gem Awards Now Accepting Nominations for 2026

Nominations in the categories of Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation will be accepted through July 30.

Lewis Heyman
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Lewis Heyman on Sourcing Gemstones, Post-Retirement Plans

He retired last month after 28 years traveling the world to source the very best gemstones for his family’s jewelry business, Oscar Heyman.

The Plumb Club board members
MajorsJul 18, 2025
Plumb Club Elects New Board Members

The organization elected its youngest vice president as it looks to draw in fresh talent.

Jewelry industry veterans Brad Campbell and John Liebler
TechnologyJul 18, 2025
Brad Campbell, John Liebler Join Clientbook’s Executive Team

Campbell joins the company as vice president of business development while Liebler is the new vice president of operations.

Silver, Gold, and Bronze Medals for Italy Olympic Winter Games
CollectionsJul 17, 2025
2026 Winter Olympic Medal Design Symbolizes Unity

The medals feature a split-texture design highlighting the Games’ first time being hosted by two cities and the athletes’ journeys.

vimeo screenshot.png
Supplier BulletinJul 17, 2025
The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025: Your Holiday Preparations, All Wrapped Up!

Sponsored by The INSTORE Jewelry Show 2025

Guinness
SurveysJul 17, 2025
The Most Recommended Brands in the World, According to YouGov

Globally, travel and transportation brands reigned, while in the U.S., alcoholic beverage companies and a lingerie brand took the top spots.

Gina Ferranti
IndependentsJul 17, 2025
Gina Ferranti of GiGi Ferranti Jewelry Dies at 59

The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is remembered as a true artist and a rare talent.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy