Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2024
Fusing Past and Present at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch ShowSponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show
EditorsOct 20, 2016
Why the GIA Grades Lab-Grown Diamonds Like It Does
The GIA’s Tom Moses explains the reasoning behind the more general color and clarity grades the lab assigns to synthetic stones.
The 5.19-carat diamond on the left and the 10.08-carat blue diamond on the right are both lab-grown stones recently examined by the Gemological Institute of America’s laboratory in Hong Kong. (Photo credit: left picture, Terry Leung and Johnny Leung; right picture, Johnny Leung, both courtesy of GIA)
Earlier this week, I wrote a story about two large lab-grown diamonds--one 5.19 carats and the other a 10.08-carat blue--recently examined by the Gemological Institute of America’s laboratory in Hong Kong.
In both articles, I noticed the GIA using the following terminology to refer to the stones’ color and clarity: “J-equivalent color” and “VS2-equivalent clarity” for the white diamond, and color equivalent to “fancy deep blue” for the colored stone.
This terminology, for me at least, raised questions about the GIA’s approach to grading synthetic diamonds.
On Wednesday, the very knowledgeable Tom Moses, the GIA’s executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer, took some time to explain it to me.
Moses said the GIA has been issuing Synthetic Diamond Grading Reports for about 10 years.
On these reports, the GIA does not give specific color or clarity grades.
Instead, Moses said, it grades lab-grown diamonds in broader terms, calling, for example, stones in the D-E-F range “colorless” and those in the G-H-I range “near colorless.”
For clarity, the lab uses only VVS, VS, SI or I for synthetic diamonds.
Why?
Because, “by their very nature, when they grow these diamonds, they are traditionally nitrogen poor,” Moses said, which is, incidentally, also what makes them Type IIa. In addition, many, though not all, CVD-grown diamonds come out a sort of brown color and then are de-colorized through a treatment process to make them colorless or near colorless.
All this is to say that these stones are not going to have the same range of color (D to Z) as mined diamonds, which is why the GIA chooses to use broader categories in grading them. They are grown to be as clear as possible, too, which is why the GIA also uses broader terms for clarity.
The GIA’s grading system, which was created long before the proliferation of lab-grown stones that we see today, was “developed for normal mine run, which doesn’t change. That’s nature,” Moses noted.
However, when the GIA publishes research articles online--like this one on the 5.19-carat diamond that appeared earlier this month--it uses terms such as “J-equivalent color” and “VS-equivalent clarity” to give readers a clearer picture of the stone.
Moses said despite what some people seem to think, the GIA is not doing this to “punish diamond growers.” Rather, the lab just sees it as the most logical way to describe lab-grown diamonds.
He added that from a consumer perspective, he doesn’t think
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
there is that much demand for specific color grades for lab-grown diamonds. Rather, they’re just happy to have a ring or a pair of earrings that are real diamonds but for a lower price.
“They’re going to say, ‘It looks nice. They sparkle. They’re the price I want to spend. I’ll take them.’”
(I think this same argument could be made for mined diamonds as well, but that’s another topic for another time.)
Moses said while lab-grown diamond companies do ask the GIA to do it differently, he doesn’t see the GIA altering its system in the near future, especially with the improving diamond-growing technology producing more stones of high color and clarity.
“Our mission is to serve the consumer and provide clear and accurate information,” he said. “Although we listen to the industry, ultimately, we are here to serve the public.”
“Right now, I just don’t see a reason why we would make that change.”
“They’re going to say, ‘It looks nice. They sparkle. They’re the price I want to spend. I’ll take them.’”
(I think this same argument could be made for mined diamonds as well, but that’s another topic for another time.)
Moses said while lab-grown diamond companies do ask the GIA to do it differently, he doesn’t see the GIA altering its system in the near future, especially with the improving diamond-growing technology producing more stones of high color and clarity.
“Our mission is to serve the consumer and provide clear and accurate information,” he said. “Although we listen to the industry, ultimately, we are here to serve the public.”
“Right now, I just don’t see a reason why we would make that change.”
More on Editors
The Latest
IndependentsMay 07, 2024
112-Year-Old New Orleans Business Popping Up in Aspen M.S. Rau is set to open a seasonal gallery in the high-end resort town early next month.
MajorsMay 07, 2024
Richemont Acquires Italian Jeweler VhernierThe branded jewelry market is thriving, said Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert.
Brought to you by
From Registration to Return: 10 Tips to Protect You Before, During and After a TradeshowTradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
These ‘Luminaries’ Are Set to Light Up CoutureThe six designers, all participants in the show’s Diversity Action Council mentorship program, will exhibit in Salon 634.
Weekly QuizMay 02, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
AuctionsMay 07, 2024
Sotheby’s to Auction Sylvester Stallone’s WatchesThe highlight of his collection is the coveted Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, which could sell for up to $5 million.
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
Phillip Gavriel Pays Tribute to Venice With New CollectionThe “Venetian Link” series modernizes the classic Veneziana box chain in its bracelets and necklaces.
Brought to you by
Rio’s Reimagined Podcast: For the Love of JewelersMeet Ben Claus—grand prize winner of For the Love of Jewelers 2023 Fall Design Challenge.
Events & AwardsMay 07, 2024
JA Now Accepting Applications for New Bench Jeweler ScholarshipThe Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship will provide tuition assistance to two low-income students.
Policies & IssuesMay 06, 2024
Rolex Files Objection to Hallmark’s New Trademark ApplicationThe Swiss watchmaker said the company’s plans to use a new version of the Hallmark crown on jewelry would confuse consumers.
EditorsMay 06, 2024
Q&A: 8 Questions With Anglo American’s Benny Oeyen The executive talked about the importance of self-purchasers and how fuel cell electric vehicles are going to fuel demand for platinum.
MajorsMay 06, 2024
Malabar Gold & Diamonds Opens 4th U.S. ShowroomThe Indian jeweler’s new store in Naperville, Illinois marks its 350th location, part of its ongoing global expansion plans.
Events & AwardsMay 06, 2024
Ben Bridge Jeweler Accepting Applications for Lonia Tate ScholarshipIt will award a graduating high school student with about $10,000 toward a GIA diploma and an internship with the Seattle-based jeweler.
CrimeMay 03, 2024
Second Suspect Arrested in Murder of Colorado JewelerWheat Ridge, Colorado police took a 50-year-old man into custody Wednesday following a two-month search.
CollectionsMay 03, 2024
A Sneak Peek Into PGI’s Couture Platinum Spotlight ProgramPGI partnered with four new and seven returning designers for its annual platinum capsule collection.
MajorsMay 03, 2024
Kristie Nicolosi Joins WJA Board AgainNicolosi, president and CEO of The Kingswood Company, previously sat on WJA’s board from 2011 to 2018.
CollectionsMay 03, 2024
Piece of the Week: A “Bit of LUV” for the DerbyKarina Brez’s race-ready piece is a sophisticated nod to the horse-rider relationship.
CrimeMay 02, 2024
4 Indicted in Burglary Ring Targeting Indian, South Asian FamiliesThe men are allegedly responsible for stealing millions in jewelry and other valuables in 43 burglaries in 25 towns across Massachusetts.
CollectionsMay 02, 2024
Foundrae Launches ‘Horizon’ Collection“Horizon” invites individuals to explore the limitless possibilities that lie ahead, said the brand.
FinancialsMay 02, 2024
Pandora Raises Guidance After Strong Q1The jeweler credits its recent “Be Love” campaign and ongoing brand revamp for its 17 percent jump in sales.
IndependentsMay 02, 2024
Oklahoma Jeweler Glenn Lewis Dies at 68The co-founder of Lewis Jewelers was also the longtime mayor of the city of Moore.
AuctionsMay 02, 2024
Vintage Baume & Mercier With Ties to Elvis Sells for $7K Elvis Presley gifted this circa 1967 gold and diamond watch to Dodie Marshall, his co-star in “Easy Come, Easy Go.”
SurveysMay 01, 2024
Consumer Confidence Falls in AprilConcerns about rising prices, politics, and global conflicts continue to dampen consumer outlook.
TrendsMay 01, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: All Eyes on EmeraldsMay’s birthstone is beloved for its rich green hue and its versatility.
SourcingMay 01, 2024
Opsydia Names New Sales and Marketing Director Jacqui Larsson joins Opsydia with nearly two decades of experience in the industry.
CrimeMay 01, 2024
Grand Jury to Hear Case Against Jeweler Charged in Fatal Shove Following IJO ShowLast month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.
