MajorsMay 20, 2024
Studs Opens Luxury Piercing Pop-Up in NYC“Fancy Studs” will feature revamped branding and a new lab-grown diamond fine jewelry collection.
SurveysJan 25, 2019
The Industry Shrank by 4% Last Year, JBT Data Shows
A healthy number of new jewelry businesses opened in North America in 2018, but not enough to offset the number of companies that closed.
Warwick, R.I.—A healthy number of new jewelry businesses opened in North America in 2018, but not enough to offset the number of companies—whether retail, wholesale or manufacturing—that closed, year-end data from the Jewelers Board of Trade shows.
The result is that the industry continued to get smaller, a trend JBT President Richard Weisenfeld said will continue for the foreseeable future, particularly among retailers.
“There is going to be a steady decrease in the number of jewelers,” he said in an interview Thursday. “As that slows down over the course of the next decade, I think what we’ll be left with in the jewelry industry is well-managed stores and well-placed manufacturers that produce the right product for the right price.”
At the end of 2018, the JBT’s listings for jewelry retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers in North America totaled 26,365, a 4 percent drop from 27,551 in 2017.
The number of retailers was down by the same percentage, shrinking from 20,757 to 19,906.
In tracking businesses exiting the industry, the JBT breaks down what it refers to as jewelry business “discontinuances” into three categories: businesses that ceased operations (closed), consolidated via a sale or merger, or filed for bankruptcy.
While the JBT saw a dramatic spike in bankruptcies during the Great Recession, the story the past few years has been jewelers closing their stores, and that continued in 2018.
JBT data shows that 738 retailers closed in North America last year, a 5 percent increase from the 706 who closed in 2017.
The United States lost 706 retailers, up 4 percent from 678 in 2017.
The region of the U.S. with the most retail closures was the Southeast at 202, followed by the Northeast (162) and the Southwest at 117.
The Northwest recorded the fewest number of jewelry store shutdowns (21), though it should be noted that regional trends for store closures do, to an extent, correlate to population; there are more closures in regions where there are more people and, therefore, more stores to begin with.
In the JBT’s regional breakdown, the Northwest includes some of the country’s most sparsely populated states, such as Alaska, Montana and Wyoming, while the Southeast and Northeast include some of the most crowded, states like Florida, New York and Pennsylvania.
Weisenfeld allowed that a portion of the industry shrinkage is attributable to the fact that not all new businesses are joining the JBT.
He
said there are probably thousands of small jewelry businesses out there that sell online, through social media and/or in non-traditional retail spaces, like showrooms and craft fairs, and conduct their business using credit cards or mobile payment systems like Venmo. They don’t see the need to join JBT.
However, he said, most of the industry shrinkage is due to the closure of traditional brick-and-mortar stores, which fall into two categories.
First, those are the stores that want to stay in business but are struggling due to factors such as having the wrong lines, being in a bad location or in an area with a shrinking population. Weisenfeld said they opt to do a going-out-of-business sale and set off in a different direction, or open a new store somewhere else.
Then those are those well-run operations with solid market share that carry better brands but have owners who are in their late 60s or early 70s and want to retire. Their children might help at the store, Weisenfeld said, but they don’t want to be the owners; they don’t like the hours or the income potential.
“It’s just not the lifestyle that kids want these days. The idea of being in a store six days a week … is just not what they are looking for.”
Jewelry business consolidations and bankruptcies—the other two forms of business discontinuances tracked by JBT—also rose slightly between 2017 and 2018.
There were 157 consolidations among retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers in North America in 2018, up from 151 the year before, and 34 bankruptcies, up from 29 in 2017.
New businesses in North America, meanwhile, totaled 230, up from 166 in 2017, a 39 percent increase.
In the U.S., there were 183 new retailers last year (up from 131 in 2017), 24 new wholesalers (up from 13) and 15 new manufacturers (up from 12).
However, he said, most of the industry shrinkage is due to the closure of traditional brick-and-mortar stores, which fall into two categories.
First, those are the stores that want to stay in business but are struggling due to factors such as having the wrong lines, being in a bad location or in an area with a shrinking population. Weisenfeld said they opt to do a going-out-of-business sale and set off in a different direction, or open a new store somewhere else.
Then those are those well-run operations with solid market share that carry better brands but have owners who are in their late 60s or early 70s and want to retire. Their children might help at the store, Weisenfeld said, but they don’t want to be the owners; they don’t like the hours or the income potential.
“It’s just not the lifestyle that kids want these days. The idea of being in a store six days a week … is just not what they are looking for.”
Jewelry business consolidations and bankruptcies—the other two forms of business discontinuances tracked by JBT—also rose slightly between 2017 and 2018.
There were 157 consolidations among retailers, wholesalers and manufacturers in North America in 2018, up from 151 the year before, and 34 bankruptcies, up from 29 in 2017.
New businesses in North America, meanwhile, totaled 230, up from 166 in 2017, a 39 percent increase.
In the U.S., there were 183 new retailers last year (up from 131 in 2017), 24 new wholesalers (up from 13) and 15 new manufacturers (up from 12).
More on Surveys
The Latest
SourcingMay 20, 2024
2 Business-to-Business Platforms Secure Millions in Funding Nivoda and Liquid Diamonds both have big plans for the new capital.
MajorsMay 20, 2024
Stuller Issues New Packaging & Display CatalogThe 2024-2025 edition features new colors and styles, as well as storytelling elements.
Brought to you by
Meet Gemology’s Next Generation Microscope: GIA® Gemolite® NXT Professional EditionGIA®’s most advanced microscope has new features to optimize greater precision and comfort.
SourcingMay 20, 2024
State of the Diamond Industry: Botswana Beyond DiamondsFrom moringa to ecotourism in the Okavango Delta, the country and its leaders are exploring how Botswana can diversify its economy.
Weekly QuizMay 16, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
SourcingMay 20, 2024
Anglo American Confirms It Is Looking to Sell De Beers The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”
FinancialsMay 17, 2024
Richemont Appoints Van Cleef & Arpels’ Nicolas Bos as New CEOThe announcement coincided with its full-year results, with growth driven by its jewelry brands.
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.
FinancialsMay 17, 2024
Watches of Switzerland’s Fiscal-Year Sales Flat Looking ahead, the retailer said it sees “enormous potential” in Roberto Coin’s ability to boost its branded jewelry business.
Recorded WebinarsMay 17, 2024
Watch: Preparing for Trade Show SuccessJewelry trade show veterans share strategies for engaging buyers, managing your time effectively, and packing the right shoes.
AuctionsMay 17, 2024
Piece of the Week: Cartier’s Ring-Tailed LemurThis little guy’s name is Ricky and he just sold for more than $200,000 at Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction.
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Christie’s Holds 2 Sales Despite CyberattackThough its website has been down for a week, Christie’s proceeded with its jewelry and watch auctions on May 13-14, bringing in nearly $80 million.
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Sotheby’s Withdraws 101-Carat Yellow Diamond from AuctionDespite the absence of “The Allnatt,” Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction totaled $34 million, with 90 percent of lots sold.
ColumnistsMay 16, 2024
The PR Adviser: What the Designer Should’ve DoneLilian Raji gives advice to designers on how to make the most of great publicity opportunities.
SourcingMay 16, 2024
Lucapa to Shed Stake in Lesotho Diamond Mine The mining company wants to divest its 70 percent holding in the Mothae Diamond Mine in an effort to streamline its portfolio.
ColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire BrandsWhy do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
AuctionsMay 15, 2024
Red Diamond Breaks Records at Phillips GenevaThe “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2024
See Who’s in JA’s 2024 ‘20 Under 40’ ClassThe annual list recognizes young professionals making an impact in jewelry retail.
IndependentsMay 15, 2024
David Mann Jewelers in Upstate NY to Close After 35 YearsOwner David Mann is heading into retirement.
FinancialsMay 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth’s Sales Fall Flat in Q1 While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.
AuctionsMay 14, 2024
2 Huge Yellow Diamonds Are Heading to AuctionChristie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.
MajorsMay 14, 2024
Platinum Born Taps ‘Born Leaders’ for New CampaignThe ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.
GradingMay 14, 2024
Instappraise Adds Trifold Brochure to Appraisal OfferingsRetailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.
Lab-GrownMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | HindmanThe late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest WinnersThree fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.
