CollectionsApr 26, 2024
Piece of the Week: Jacquie Aiche’s Starry Galaxy NecklaceThe necklace is featured in the brand’s “Rebel Heart” campaign starring Adam Levine and Behati Prinsloo.
GradingFeb 12, 2019
System for Comparing Color in Gemstones Launched in Tucson
ColorCodex offers a way for the trade to communicate and compare the color of faceted gemstones using numeric values.
The new ColorCodex system features color “windows” attached to numeric values to provide a way to compare and communicate the color of faceted gemstones.
Tucson, Ariz.—A new color referencing tool launched in Tucson, designed to help the industry communicate and compare the color of gemstones in a consistent manner.
Chris Smith, developer of the system and president of American Gemological Laboratories, debuted ColorCodex during the AGTA GemFair trade show with a workshop event along with others who had a hand in the project.
The tool, built by gemologists for gemologists, allows industry professionals to compare and reference the color of faceted gemstones.
“Throughout my career in gemology, I’ve always marveled at how an industry that’s built on color is always struggling with how to communicate color and how to deal with color in stones,” Smith said during the Tucson event.
The ColorCodex concept originally debuted in beta form, so to speak, during the AGTA GemFair in 2017. Gem dealers, market analysts and major international laboratories have been testing it for the past two years.
ColorCodex consists of 13 color sheets of 40 color “windows,” each with a reflective and patterned foil to mimic the appearance of a faceted gemstone. Each window has a corresponding numeric code—without any color descriptors—so the designators can be used for many applications, developers said.
There is a total of 65 different hues.
In the system, each hue is represented by its own column, which is then divided into eight windows depicting the varying intensity or saturation of that specific color. 
The colors, or hues, are evenly numbered horizontally across the page from 10 through 138, while the vertical windows showing intensity are given odd numbers from 03 through 17.
Combining these two numeric values therefore defines not only a specific color but also its level of saturation.
Space also has been left between the color windows on each sheet to allow for when a gemstone’s color may fall in between two.
Developers addressed when gemstones also have an added tonal element to their color by designing gray overlay cards.
“In transparent faceted gems, cutting will create brightened reflections of brilliance and color as well as blackened areas of extinction,” Smith said in a press release. “The ColorCodex system was specifically engineered to mimic this appearance and present color more as we see it in gems.”
Smith
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
added in Tucson that he is purposefully not dictating ColorCodex’s use to allow “the industry itself to determine how it can be used and what the applications can be.”
But developers have a few suggestions.
Appraisers can use ColorCodex to assign color reference for value without relying on trade terms, gem dealers and suppliers can better match stones and fulfill orders, or new gemologists can be trained about the nuance of color in various gemstones and varieties.
Another area of possible use noted at the launch event is to help the industry set parameters for varieties that are defined by color; for example, setting borders to differentiate between ruby and pink sapphire, imperial and precious topaz, and the like. In this case, it could be useful to trade organizations and gemological laboratories.
AGL has started using ColorCodex internally to standardize color calls and structure its trade names, Smith said. He added that he has approached several labs about using the system as well.
The tool is priced at $2,000 and can be ordered online.
It includes 13 color referencing sheets, five overlay sheets and three plastic travel sleeves. It also comes with a guide on how to use the tool as well as how to apply it when it comes to zoned and bi-color stones.
At the ColorCodex launch event in Tucson, developers said they also would like to address the issue of changing color perception based on lighting conditions.
They will do this by creating their own light to go along with the tool, which will have the full spectrum with less UV, to allow for uniform lighting among all users.
Developers are still working on prototypes but are hopeful the ColorCodex lamp will launch soon.
But developers have a few suggestions.
Appraisers can use ColorCodex to assign color reference for value without relying on trade terms, gem dealers and suppliers can better match stones and fulfill orders, or new gemologists can be trained about the nuance of color in various gemstones and varieties.
Another area of possible use noted at the launch event is to help the industry set parameters for varieties that are defined by color; for example, setting borders to differentiate between ruby and pink sapphire, imperial and precious topaz, and the like. In this case, it could be useful to trade organizations and gemological laboratories.
AGL has started using ColorCodex internally to standardize color calls and structure its trade names, Smith said. He added that he has approached several labs about using the system as well.
The tool is priced at $2,000 and can be ordered online.
It includes 13 color referencing sheets, five overlay sheets and three plastic travel sleeves. It also comes with a guide on how to use the tool as well as how to apply it when it comes to zoned and bi-color stones.
At the ColorCodex launch event in Tucson, developers said they also would like to address the issue of changing color perception based on lighting conditions.
They will do this by creating their own light to go along with the tool, which will have the full spectrum with less UV, to allow for uniform lighting among all users.
Developers are still working on prototypes but are hopeful the ColorCodex lamp will launch soon.
More on Grading
The Latest
Events & AwardsApr 26, 2024
AGS Conclave and GIA Symposium Are ConvergingThe two organizations will host a joint event, “Converge,” in September 2025.
SourcingApr 26, 2024
Anglo American Reportedly Shopping De Beers as BHP Eyes Anglo Big changes appear to be on the horizon for the diamond miner and its parent company, Anglo American.
Brought to you by
The Blueprint for Success in Scalable, Personalized Jewelry RetailWith Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.
Events & AwardsApr 25, 2024
Alexis Padis Takes Over as AGS Board President Padis succeeds Lisa Bridge, marking the first time the organization has had two women board presidents in a row.
Weekly QuizApr 26, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
EditorsApr 25, 2024
5 Tips for Creating Fans from the Top (Savannah) Banana Jesse Cole, founder of Fans First Entertainment, shared the “five Es” of building a fan base during his AGS Conclave keynote.
WatchesApr 25, 2024
Audemars Piguet and John Mayer Partner on Limited Edition WatchThe Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar "John Mayer" was celebrated at a star-studded party in LA last week.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your BusinessFor over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.
SourcingApr 25, 2024
De Beers Lowers Production Guidance for 2024The announcement came as the company reported a 23 percent drop in production in Q1.
MajorsApr 25, 2024
Detroit Lions’ QB Jared Goff Keeps Going to JaredThe three-time Pro Bowler continues to partner with the retailer, donating to a Detroit nonprofit and giving watches to fans.
CrimeApr 24, 2024
Jewelry Crime Declines Significantly, But Dollar Losses Remain High A double-digit drop in the number of in-store crimes was offset by a jump in off-premises attacks, JSA’s 2023 crime report shows.
CollectionsApr 24, 2024
Pippa Small Announces ‘Venus’ CollectionInspired by the Roman goddess of love, the designer looked to the sea for her new collection.
FinancialsApr 24, 2024
Kering’s Jewelry Brands a Bright Spot in Tough Q1The luxury titan posted declining sales, weighed down by Gucci’s poor performance.
Events & AwardsApr 24, 2024
JCK Industry Fund Announces 2024 Grant RecipientsThe selected nine organizations have outlined their plans for the funds.
SourcingApr 24, 2024
Rio Tinto’s Q1 Production Drops Amid Pause to Honor Lost Colleagues The mining company’s Diavik Diamond Mine lost four employees in a plane crash in January.
WatchesApr 24, 2024
These Are Rolex’s New Watches for 2024 The crown introduced a dozen timepieces in Geneva, including a heavy metal version of its deep-sea divers’ watch.
ColumnistsApr 23, 2024
The Smart Lab: Advanced Email Marketing Strategies for Mother’s DayEmmanuel Raheb recommends digging into demographic data, customizing your store’s communications, and retargeting ahead of May 12.
IndependentsApr 23, 2024
Hannoush Jewelers Opens New Store in New York Located in the town of Queensbury, it features a dedicated bridal section and a Gabriel & Co. store-in-store.
SourcingApr 23, 2024
Lucapa Sells 3 Diamonds for $10.5M in First Lulo Tender of 2024A 203-carat diamond from the alluvial mine in Angola achieved the highest price.
CollectionsApr 22, 2024
Jacquie Aiche’s New Campaign Stars Adam Levine, Behati PrinslooThe “Rebel Heart” campaign embodies rebellion, romance, and sensuality, the brand said.
EditorsApr 22, 2024
The 22 Best Quotes from AGS Conclave 2024 Editor-in-Chief Michelle Graff shares the standout moments from the education sessions she attended in Austin last week.
SourcingApr 22, 2024
Virtual Diamond Boutique Rebrands as ‘VDB’The overhaul includes a new logo and enhanced digital marketplace.
MajorsApr 22, 2024
Signet Raises Nearly $9M for St. Jude Children’s Research HospitalThe money will go toward supporting ongoing research and aftercare programs for childhood cancer survivors.
CollectionsApr 19, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Treasure NecklaceA new addition to the “Heirloom” collection, this one-of-a-kind piece features 32 custom-cut gemstones.
CrimeApr 19, 2024
Grand Jury to Hear Case Against Jeweler Charged in Fatal Shove Following IJO ShowLast month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.
MajorsApr 19, 2024
Unique Designs Acquires China PearlThe move will allow the manufacturing company to offer a more “diverse and comprehensive” range of products.
SourcingApr 18, 2024
Diamond Trade Remains Cautious Amid Economic UncertaintyDe Beers’ rough diamond sales were down 18 percent year-over-year in its latest round of sales.
