Sourcing

This $2M Yellow Diamond Is Shrouded in Black

SourcingSep 17, 2019

This $2M Yellow Diamond Is Shrouded in Black

An artist made one of LJ West’s stones “disappear” to make statements on contrast, value and the monopolization of materials in the art world.

20190917_Redemption_of_Vanity_header.jpg
This $2 million fancy vivid yellow SI1 diamond owned by L.J. West is on display at the New York Stock Exchange until late November, but it doesn’t look anything like this.

New York—There is a $2 million diamond on display at the New York Stock Exchange right now, but you can’t really see it.

On Friday, the New York Stock Exchange and MIT opened “The Redemption of Vanity,” a work by conceptual artist Diemut Strebe that involved coating a 16.78-carat vivid yellow diamond with carbon nanotubes, muting the diamond’s color, flattening its lines and making it essentially invisible against a black background.

The stone is from the collection of L.J. West Diamonds Inc., a New York-based company that specializes in natural colored diamonds.

In an interview at the stock exchange Friday, the Boston-based Strebe said her project has numerous aspects to it, standing as a statement on contrast, value and the monopolization of materials in the art world.

There is, first, the juxtaposition of the two materials, the “unification of extreme opposites,” she said.

While both the diamond and the tubes are made of the same element, carbon, one absorbs light while the other reflects it.

The patented carbon nanotube technology used in Redemption was developed by Professor Brian Wardle and his necstlab (pronounced “next lab”) research group at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. (Strebe is the Ida Ely Rubin Artist in Residence at MIT.)

Any object covered with CNT material is flattened out, reduced to a black silhouette, and, in the case, of a diamond, loses its sparkle.

At the New York Stock Exchange, the now-shrouded-in-black stone sits at one end of the Board Room, an opulent turn-of-the-century event space located two levels above the trading floor.

On display to the left of the diamond is a juxtaposing image indeed—a giant screen displays a rotating, 360-degree image of the 16.78-carat vivid yellow radiant-cut stone, sparkling in its polished state.

Secondly, Strebe said she wanted the work to be a statement on the arbitrary and man-made nature of value, a topic that artists—she mentioned specifically French artist Yves Klein, who once organized an exhibition that consisted of nothing but an empty room—have been creating works around for decades.


These photos by Diemut Strebe show the 16.78-carat vivid yellow before and after the introduction of the carbon nanotube material, which was applied via heating and can be removed.
In looking at The Redemption of Vanity, one might say the artist has devalued this diamond by concealing what is considered, in the diamond world at least, to be valuable about it—its

saturated and evenly dispersed color.

But, she pointed out, someone could see value in the piece as a work of art and offer to pay more for it; objects are worth what they are perceived to be worth.

“People take this man-made system [of value] as the physical laws of nature,” Strebe said, “and it is not.”

Strebe said she approached, and was rebuffed by, a number of big-name jewelers about lending her a diamond for her project before coming across the name L.J. West in an CNN article. She eventually got in touch with company President Larry West, and the longtime diamantaire readily agreed to participate.

West said he’s always had an interest in the sciences—he actually wanted to be a scientist before his father died in the early 1970s and he had to step in to help run the family business—and he also likes the questions the exhibition raises about the arbitrary nature of value.

Is the diamond worth more now, or less?


“The Redemption of Vanity” is on display at the New York Stock Exchange, which artist Diemut Strebe considers the perfect setting for a statement on value as it is an epicenter of rising, and falling, value. (Photo credit: Michelle Graff)


West chose this particular stone from his company’s vast collection because of its size—almost 17 carats—and because it had so much brightness, color and brilliance, a fitting contrast to the matte nature of the CNT material.

In addition to serving as a commentary on contrast and value, The Redemption of Vanity stands as a statement against the purchase of exclusive rights to a carbon nanotube formula for use in artwork by British sculptor Anish Kapoor (he did the sculpture in Chicago’s Millennium Park popularly known as “The Bean”).

Strebe said monopolization of materials in this manner is a “business approach” that does not have a place in art. The CNTs Wardle and Strebe created for the diamond exhibition use a different composition that’ll be available for any artist to use.

The Redemption of Vanity will be on display at the New York Stock Exchange until Nov. 25.

It is available for viewing by appointment only. To schedule one, email peter.asch@nyse.com.
Michelle Graffis the editor-in-chief at National Jeweler, directing the publication’s coverage both online and in print.

The Latest

202.18 carat fancy intense yellow diamond The Yellow Rose
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Christie’s Holds 2 Sales Despite Cyberattack

Though its website has been down for a week, Christie’s proceeded with its jewelry and watch auctions on May 13-14, bringing in nearly $80 million.

The Allnatt yellow diamond
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Sotheby’s Withdraws 101-Carat Yellow Diamond from Auction

Despite the absence of “The Allnatt,” Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction totaled $34 million, with 90 percent of lots sold.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsMay 16, 2024
The PR Adviser: What the Designer Should’ve Done

Lilian Raji gives advice to designers on how to make the most of great publicity opportunities.

Royal Chain gold chains
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.

Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.

National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire Brands

Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.

Weekly QuizMay 09, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Take the Quiz
The Argyle Phoenix red diamond
AuctionsMay 15, 2024
Red Diamond Breaks Records at Phillips Geneva

The “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 2024 recipients
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2024
See Who’s in JA’s 2024 ‘20 Under 40’ Class

The annual list recognizes young professionals making an impact in jewelry retail.

Header image w logo.jpg
Brought to you by
From Registration to Return: 10 Tips to Protect You Before, During and After a Tradeshow

Tradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.

David Mann jewelry store
IndependentsMay 15, 2024
David Mann Jewelers in Upstate NY to Close After 35 Years

Owner David Mann is heading into retirement.

Brilliant Earth Logan Hollowell jewelry collection
FinancialsMay 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth’s Sales Fall Flat in Q1

While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.

The Yellow Rose and the Allnatt yellow diamonds
AuctionsMay 14, 2024
2 Huge Yellow Diamonds Are Heading to Auction

Christie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.

Born Leaders Platinum Born campaign
MajorsMay 14, 2024
Platinum Born Taps ‘Born Leaders’ for New Campaign

The ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.

Instappraise Trifold Brochure
GradingMay 14, 2024
Instappraise Adds Trifold Brochure to Appraisal Offerings

Retailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.

White, pink, and blue lab-grown diamonds from Lightbox
Lab-GrownMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%

The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.

Christie’s New York
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed

The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.

Madeleine K. Albright’s Patriotic Leopard Brooch
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | Hindman

The late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.

Zachary’s Jewelers Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest winners
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest Winners

Three fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.

Kimberly Adams Russell
IndependentsMay 10, 2024
Frank Adams Jewelers Names New CEO

Kimberly Adams Russell is taking over the role from her father, David Adams, marking the third generation to hold the title.

Birth of Venus necklace
CollectionsMay 10, 2024
Piece of the Week: Carina Hardy’s ‘Birth of Venus’ Necklace

As a token of womanhood, this necklace depicts when Venus was born from the sea.

Roberto Coin Fleur de Lis jewelry
MajorsMay 09, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Pays $130M for Roberto Coin Inc.

The deal gives the retailer control over the distribution of Roberto Coin jewelry in the U.S., Canada, Caribbean, and Central America.

Lauren K Mosaic necklace
TrendsMay 09, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Shine Bright, Moms  

Show your mother some love with a piece of fine jewelry.

Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry
IndependentsMay 09, 2024
Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry to Close Salisbury Store

The company’s Easton location will remain open.

Jewelers Board of Trade logo
MajorsMay 09, 2024
JBT Elects New Chairman

Brian D. Fleming of Carla Corporation was elected to serve a one-year term in the role.

Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show Bracelets
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2024
Fusing Past and Present at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Vikki Tobak
EditorsMay 07, 2024
Q&A: Author Vikki Tobak on the ‘Ice-Cold’ Exhibition

Tobak, author of “Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History,” shares how the exhibition came to be, and the pieces people may be surprised to see.

Cynthia Erivo, Zendaya, Lewis Hamilton at the Met Gala
EditorsMay 07, 2024
10 On-Theme Looks from the 2024 Met Gala

Stars adorned themselves in emeralds, platinum, and myriad bird motifs, writes Associate Editor Natalie Francisco.

Rendering of M.S. Rau pop-up shop in Aspen, Colorado
IndependentsMay 07, 2024
112-Year-Old New Orleans Business Popping Up in Aspen

M.S. Rau is set to open a seasonal gallery in the high-end resort town early next month.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy