CollectionsSep 11, 2026
A Sapphire ‘Stardust’ Ring From Greenwich St. Jewelers The Latine-owned New York jeweler is marking two milestones this year: its 50th anniversary and the 25th anniversary of the 9/11 attacks.
TrendsJul 22, 2015
The History Behind … Mid-century Modern jewelry
National Jeweler’s latest installment of The History Behind delves into the where, why and how of jewelry crafted in the 1940s and 1950s.
A bracelet by jewelry designer Earl Pardon, one of the most-well known Modernist designers; this piece was included in a recent exhibition of Pardon’s work at the High Museum in Atlanta. (Photo courtesy of the Aaron Faber Gallery)
New York--Mid-century Modernism is marked by clean lines and bold, abstract geometric shapes; think the furniture in Sterling Cooper’s first office on Mad Men.
Right now, the simple shapes of Mid-century Modernism, a movement that peaked in the 1950s, are enjoying a renaissance in home décor and furniture, yet the jewelry of this period hasn’t come back into style with the same force.
That doesn’t mean the designs are lost forever. Jewelry created by artists such as sculptor Alexander Calder still sell for hundreds of thousands at auction, and brands like Georg Jensen continue making pieces with the same clean aesthetic.
Patricia Faber, who has co-owned the Aaron Faber Gallery in New York with her husband since 1974, discussed these designers and more with National Jeweler for the latest installment of The History Behind.
To what time period does Mid-Century Modernism correspond? Although well-known jewelry artisan Margaret De Patta was making jewelry in a Modernist style in the late 1930s, Faber said it really became a movement in the 1940s after the end of World War II.
Prior to this, there was the era of Art Deco design and, following that, the period that came to be known as Retro Modern. Faber said the Retro Modern era was all about over-the-top, heavy designs, many of which were crafted in rose gold because of war-time restrictions on silver and platinum use. Designers turned to copper because its supply was not limited, alloying it with gold and ultimately creating a lot of rose-colored jewelry.
Faber referred to these Retro Modern pieces as “Joan Crawford jewelry” in reference to the movie star known for wearing big, bold jewelry--mostly her own--in films of this era.
What does the transition from the style of Retro Modern to Mid-century Modernism tell us about what was going in society at this time? Like all movements in fashion, including jewelry, “It’s a rejection of the last thing,” Faber observed.
Designers in the United States, as well as those from Scandinavian countries and the silversmiths of Mexico, went for sleeker designs in an effort to distance themselves from the heavy statement pieces popular in the early 1940s.
In the U.S., the fresh designs of Mid-century Modernism also represented a “new freedom,” Faber said.
Prior to World War II, there was the Great Depression, which forced families to stay together, perhaps sometimes longer than they would
have liked. Then the war came, and people watched their loved ones leave not knowing if they’d ever see them again.
When World War II ended, it set people free from these concerns and also marked the beginning of a period of perhaps-unparalleled prosperity in the U.S. “They had money and they had a real freedom to make their own life, (to) not be so beholden to not having money,” Faber says.
There was a new economy, relationships and mobility in America during this time, and a new look in jewelry to go along with it.
Who bought Mid-century Modern jewelry? Like Art Nouveau jewelry, the pieces crafted in this era appealed to a very specific consumer; they were not for everyone.
The designs were strong, as the pieces were created from the point of the view of the designer. “It is not jewelry to fulfill a function. It’s not bridal jewelry or necklaces for Mother’s Day,” Faber said. “It is coming from a design perspective.”
Geometric designs were a key theme in Mid-century Modernism. Most of the jewelry was crafted in silver, partly due to Scandinavian influence (Scandinavian jewelers traditionally have worked in silver) but also the Bauhaus movement, which called on art in all forms to be affordable.
Is there one decade that was considered the peak for Mid-century Modernism? The 1950s are considered the peak for this kind of design in jewelry. Faber said that while Mid-century styles have come back en vogue for furniture and lighting through the years, the jewelry designs of this era have not enjoyed the same resurgence.
How can jewelers add Mid-century Modern jewelry to their inventory? This jewelry can be sourced through basically any of the marketplaces that deal in estate pieces, including antique and estate jewelry shows and auctions.
“I so strongly recommend jewelers who are selling contemporary jewelry combine something old and something new,” Faber said, adding that antique and estate pieces are “incredible conversation starters.”
It’s something Faber and her husband do in their New York gallery, which focuses on the work of studio jewelers. They find that the two categories, old and new, support each other.
“It puts that story visually on display for people walking in: where is (the design inspiration for) today’s jewelry from, why is it interesting.”
More on Trends
The Latest
ColumnistsSep 11, 2026
Sherry Smith: Stop Waiting for December to Save Your ChristmasThe stores that have a great December are the ones that made good decisions in August, September, and October, Sherry Smith writes.
MajorsSep 11, 2026
The Wishing Place by JTV OpensThe jewelry retail broadcast network has sponsored a new space for Make-A-Wish East Tennessee on its campus in Knoxville.
Brought to you by
Your Piece Could Be the One Editors Talk AboutSubmit your pieces for a chance to win in this year's competition.
Events & AwardsSep 11, 2026
The Edge Awards Scholarships to 2 Young Jewelry ProfessionalsThe recipients were recognized at the 24 Karat Club of the Southeastern United States’ annual banquet.
Weekly QuizSep 10, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsSep 10, 2026
Lagos Founder Steven Lagos Steps Down as CEO Keith Rolfe, CFO and COO of Lagos, is now at the jewelry brand’s helm while Steven takes on the role of executive chairman.
CrimeSep 10, 2026
FBI Offers $50K Reward for ‘Most Wanted’ Fugitive in $1M Jewelry HeistAlberto Perez-Elias is one of four men charged in the armed robbery of a Cape Coral, Florida, jewelry store and remains at large.
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying EventsRetailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Massive Matched Pair of Paraíba Tourmalines Head to Sotheby’sThe “Kat Florence Luminas” will be offered together as one lot and could fetch up to $637,000.
SourcingSep 10, 2026
AGTA Announces 4 Newly Elected DirectorsFour directors were elected to the AGTA board and will serve three-year terms beginning in February.
AuctionsSep 10, 2026
Former Sotheby’s, Christie’s Exec Appointed CEO of Julien’s Auctions Ken Citron joins the celebrity memorabilia-focused auction house ahead of its first week-long series of events in Abu Dhabi.
FinancialsSep 09, 2026
Signet Jewelers to ‘Double Down’ on Blue Nile Amid Strong SalesThe jewelry retailer said it sees opportunity at higher price points, particularly in natural diamonds for bridal and fashion.
IndependentsSep 09, 2026
Sarah Leonard Fine Jewelers Closes After Nearly 80 YearsThe Los Angeles-based, family-owned jeweler was founded by Lenny and Sunny Friedman in 1946.
SourcingSep 09, 2026
Fura Gems Notes ‘Remarkable’ Interest in Larger Rubies at Latest SaleThe auction, held in Bangkok, was 96 percent sold by lot, with nearly 411,000 carats of Mozambiquan rubies sold.
MajorsSep 09, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Catalog Includes Its New Demi-Fine CollectionFine Jewelry 2027-2028 has more than 900 new styles, including silver, gold-filled, gold-plated sterling silver, and vermeil jewelry.
Policies & IssuesSep 09, 2026
8 Key Changes the FTC Made to the Jewelry Guides: A Refresher Learn more about the new terms for lab-grown diamonds and composite gemstones, and the major changes in store for precious metals jewelry.
IndependentsSep 08, 2026
Ricky Bromberg, Longtime President of Bromberg & Co., Dies at 67 Bromberg is remembered as a Southern gentleman who always wore a suit and tie and treated others with kindness.
ColumnistsSep 08, 2026
Peter Smith: Humor Is No Laughing MatterLaughter is often considered a distraction in the workplace, but it has benefits for both staff and management, Peter Smith writes.
MajorsSep 08, 2026
Former Tiffany & Co. Exec Joins Exemplar Luxury GroupGretchen Koback Pursel is the new chief people officer at the company formerly known as Saks Global.
IndependentsSep 04, 2026
Orloff Jewelers Will Soon Unveil a Bigger, Better LocationThe California jeweler is renovating its store in Fresno, with plans to show off the new space in December.
CollectionsSep 04, 2026
Chelsea Gabrielle Transforms Pilates Reformer Springs Into Ring A lifelong practitioner of Pilates, Gabrielle looked to the springs’ tension and suspension when creating this ring, our Piece of the Week.
Events & AwardsSep 04, 2026
JCK Industry Fund Accepting 2027 ApplicationsThe deadline to apply is Nov. 13.
AuctionsSep 04, 2026
Christie's Names New Global Head of WatchesThe auction house has promoted Remi Guillemin, formerly its head of watches for the Americas and EMEA, to the role.
EditorsSep 03, 2026
Q&A: Simon G.’s CEO on Why He Won’t Use AI for Jewelry DesignZaven Ghanimian discussed the value of human craftsmanship and where the implementation of artificial intelligence does work.
Events & AwardsSep 03, 2026
Here Are the First Recipients of Nina Pugliese Memorial Scholarship Jewelers of America also revealed the recipients of the Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship and its own scholarship programs.
WatchesSep 03, 2026
Robert Pattinson Joins Jaeger-LeCoultre as Brand AmbassadorThe British actor, known for his roles in “Twilight” and “The Odyssey,” will star in a campaign for the Master Control Chronometre.
CollectionsSep 03, 2026
Sydney Evan Celebrates 25 Years With 4 New CollectionsThe “Confetti Disco,” “Champagne Cheers,” “Tuxedo,” and “Classic Punk” jewelry collections each capture a distinct spirit of celebration.
