CollectionsDec 05, 2025
Piece of the Week: Robinson Pelham’s ‘Tsar Star’ EarringsThe new pink sapphire version of the piece dances with its wearer in the brand’s “Icons After Dark” holiday campaign.
TrendsJul 08, 2015
The History Behind … the ouroboros
Snakes have been bent, twisted and bejeweled for adornment’s sake for thousands of years. What is it about this figure--a commonly-feared reptile with scaly skin--that is so appealing to jewelry-makers?
“I do think that’s the most powerful interpretation of the snake,” Elizabeth Doyle said of the ouroboros. “That’s the purest symbol of eternity.”
New York--Snakes have been bent, twisted and bejeweled for adornment’s sake for thousands of years.
What is it about this figure--a commonly-feared reptile with scaly skin--that is so appealing to jewelry-makers?
New York jeweler Elizabeth Doyle believes the reptile’s draw lies in the fact that it has held so many different meanings. It is a very powerful symbol that has wound its way through many different cultures and religions.
To the ancient Egyptians, it represented eternal life while others equated the serpent with knowledge. In more modern times, the snake has a darker appeal, the creature that tempted Eve in the Garden of Eden and led to her being cast out of paradise but which many still try to charm.
The ouroboros, the ancient symbol of a snake eating its own tail, magnifies people’s dark fascination with these creatures by what it represents-- something devouring itself in order to survive. “That’s part of the appeal of the ouroboros,” she said. “People fear snakes but they love them.”
Doyle opened Doyle & Doyle, a New York City retail shop, with her sister Irene Pamela in 2000. The store sells vintage jewelry as well as modern collections they design in-house. Their newest collection, set to debut in September, centers on the ouroboros.
Here, Doyle talks with National Jeweler about the history behind the figure of the snake eating its own tail that’s so commonly seen in jewelry.
Where did the word “ouroboros” originate? Doyle said the word “ouroboros” is derived from the Greek terms “ouro,” meaning tail, and “boros,” which translates to eating; so literally, a tail-devouring creature. While the ouroboros is usually a snake eating its own tail, it can be a dragon as well.
When was this figure first used in jewelry? Egyptian jewelry incorporated snakes, including snakes eating their own tail.
The first reference to the ouroboros in text is traced to this time too. Doyle said that a drawing of a snake eating its own tail was discovered in the Enigmatic Book of the Netherworld, the ancient Egyptian funerary text discovered in the tomb of Tutankhamun (King Tut), which dates to the 14th century B.C.
What was the appeal of the snake for jewelry design, and of the ouroboros specifically? Because the snake sheds its skin, ancient people believed that it was regenerating itself, being born again, so the snake came to be equated
with the eternal circle of life, or eternal rejuvenation, Doyle said.
It appealed to people’s desire for a long life, vitality and youth--the same desires that exist today--and thus was seen as an auspicious creature to use as adornment.
While it is a symbol of regeneration and eternal life, there’s also a darker side to it, the idea that something has to devour itself in order to survive. “People,” Doyle observed, “really like that balance of evil and good.”
Was there a time period when the ouroboros was most popular? While snake jewelry never really went out of style the serpent motif, including the ouroboros, surged during the Victorian era because Queen Victoria liked snake jewelry and, in fact, received a green enamel snake ring from Prince Albert. The queen was like the Carrie Bradshaw or Oprah of her time; whatever she did, other people followed.
Doyle said ouroboros also were used in Victorian mourning jewelry because it could symbolize one’s eternal bond with another person. These pieces often incorporated turquoise, a gemstone that is symbolic of the idea of forget-me-not in the European tradition.
RELATED CONTENT: The History Behind ... Victorian mourning jewelry
Doyle said it also helped that the Victorian era was the first time jewelry was mass produced, making it available to those outside the upper class.
How can retailers find ouroboros designs to add to their antique or estate jewelry selection, or even their modern stock? If looking for antique ouroboros jewelry, Doyle recommends the Victorian era pieces, as they are easier to find. Georgian examples are scarce, and there’s a greater likelihood of running across fakes.
There are also plenty of modern designers incorporating the snake, including the ouroboros, into their designs.
Besides being a streamlined shape that lends itself easily to bracelets, rings, pendants and earrings, the snake also presents a long, smooth surface on which designers can engrave or etch scales or set gemstones.
“They’ve always been a part of jewelry design,” Doyle said of snakes. “You can do so much with it.”
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsDec 05, 2025
Stuller Releases ‘Wrapped in Wonder’ CampaignThe manufacturer’s holiday campaign features a gift guide filled with trending designs and jewelry that can be personalized.
CrimeDec 04, 2025
Man Arrested After Allegedly Swallowing Fabergé Egg PendantThe man was charged with theft, accused of ingesting the necklace while in a jewelry store in Auckland, New Zealand.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
IndependentsDec 04, 2025
Step Inside JR Dunn Jewelers’ Giant New Store The Florida independent expanded its store from 8,000 to 14,000 square feet, fulfilling the vision of its late co-founder, Jim Dunn.
Weekly QuizDec 04, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Supplier BulletinDec 04, 2025
Introducing Shop Natural Day: A New Movement Celebrating Natural DiamondsSponsored by De Beers Group
WatchesDec 04, 2025
Casio Shrinks its G-Shock WatchThe classic 5600 series G-Shock has been scaled down to about a tenth of its size, becoming a fully functioning watch ring.
Brought to you by
Roseco Releases New Full-Line CatalogRoseco’s 704-page catalog showcases new lab-grown diamonds, findings, tools & more—available in print or interactive digital editions.
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
AGA Announces 2026 Tucson Speaker LineupThe association’s annual conference and gala will take place Feb. 4, 2026, during the Tucson gem shows.
Events & AwardsDec 04, 2025
CBG Announces Speaker Lineup for 2026 Miami Event The January show will include a workshop for jewelry retailers on implementing AI to strengthen their businesses.
Policies & IssuesDec 03, 2025
Costco Joins Growing Wave of Retailers Suing for Tariff Refunds The retailer, which sells billions in fine jewelry and watches, is suing the Trump administration and U.S. Customs and Border Patrol.
SurveysDec 03, 2025
A Record 202.9M Shoppers Turned Out Thanksgiving WeekendBlack Friday is still the most popular shopping day over the five-day holiday weekend, as per the National Retail Federation’s survey.
AuctionsDec 03, 2025
Fabergé’s 'The Winter Egg' Achieves Record $30MThe historic egg, crafted for Russia's ruling family prior to the revolution, was the star of Christie’s recent auction of works by Fabergé.
FinancialsDec 02, 2025
Signet Jewelers’ Q3 Sales Up Amid Continued Focus on Lower Price PointsThe retailer offered more fashion jewelry priced under $1,000, including lab-grown diamond and men’s jewelry.
CollectionsDec 02, 2025
Briony Raymond Introduces First FragranceThe eau de parfum is held in a fluted glass bottle that mirrors the decor of the brand’s atelier, and its cap is a nod to its “Sloan” ring.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Petra Diamonds Elevates Interim CEOs to Permanent StatusVivek Gadodia and Juan Kemp, who’ve been serving as interim co-CEOs since February, will continue to lead the diamond mining company.
MajorsDec 02, 2025
Lee Krombholz Takes Over as Chair of MJSA Education FoundationIn addition, a slate of new officers and trustees were appointed to the board.
IndependentsDec 02, 2025
RJO Welcomes Its 1,200th Retail MemberWitt’s Jewelry in Wayne, Nebraska, is the organization’s new milestone member.
SourcingDec 02, 2025
Brendan Laurs Honored With 2025 Bonanno AwardLaurs is the editor-in-chief of Gem-A’s The Journal of Gemmology and an expert on the formation of colored gemstone deposits.
CrimeDec 01, 2025
Fourth Man Charged in Louvre Jewelry HeistThe man, who has a criminal history, is suspected of being the fourth member of the four-man crew that carried out the heist.
AuctionsDec 01, 2025
Christie’s Presents ‘Splendor & Style’ CollectionThe single-owner collection includes one of the largest offerings of Verdura jewels ever to appear at auction, said Christie’s.
IndependentsDec 01, 2025
Lustig Jewelers’ New Owner Is a Fellow Chicago JewelerMichael Helfer has taken the reins, bringing together two historic Chicago jewelry names.
MajorsDec 01, 2025
PGI Debuts Platinum-Filled Holiday Gift GuideThe guide features all-new platinum designs for the holiday season by brands like Harwell Godfrey, Ritani, and Suna.
FinancialsNov 26, 2025
Movado CEO Talks Tariffs, Growing Interest in Accessible Luxury WatchesDuring its Q3 call, CEO Efraim Grinberg discussed the deal to lower tariffs on Swiss-made watches, watch market trends, and more.
TrendsNov 26, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rosior’s Pumpkin RingRosior’s high jewelry cocktail ring with orange sapphires and green diamonds is the perfect Thanksgiving accessory.
IndependentsNov 26, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Launches Colorful Holiday CampaignThe “Embrace Your True Colors” campaign features jewels with a vibrant color palette and poetry by Grammy-nominated artist Aja Monet.
MajorsNov 26, 2025
Serafino Consoli Names New VP of Sales, Brand Development for the AmericasLuxury veteran Alejandro Cuellar has stepped into the role at the Italian fine jewelry brand.
