By Ashley Davis
Pictured is a design from Emmanuel Tarpin’s first of three capsule collections for De Grisogono as part of its new, year-long Creativity-in-Residence program.
Geneva—De Grisogono has announced the creation of an artist-in-residence program and kicked off the initiative with an exciting jewelry up-and-comer.

The Geneva-based jewelry house tapped 27-year-old buzzed-about French designer Emmanuel Tarpin to create three mini collections as part of its year-long “Creativity-in-Residence” project.

20191106 EmmanuelTarpin headshotEmmanuel TarpinCalled “Prologue,” the capsule collection comprises six pieces that mimic a ribbon’s undulating swirls, rendered in black and white diamonds.

The collection’s statement necklace is one-of-a-kind, while the other five pieces, including a bracelet, ring, hoop earring and ear jackets, are available in editions of 20 through De Grisogono boutiques.

Prologue showcases dramatic volume and exquisite technical prowess that lend the jewels a sculptural quality, while creating an unabashedly feminine and whimsical mood with a strong sense of play.

De Grisogono CEO Céline Assimon explained in a statement that Tarpin was the ideal inaugural candidate for the Creativity-in-Residence program as, “there is a definite link between Emmanuel Tarpin’s universe of creation and ours, at the heart of which is a great freedom to create, to dare and to surprise.

“Emmanuel is one of the few artists to have the technical knowledge as well as the understanding of the process of making high jewelry in the atelier…Few designers have such a deep connection to the art of the craftsmen and women throughout the entire process of creation, from initial sketch to finished masterpiece.”

With his one-of-a-kind designs sold at Siegelson in New York City, Tarpin has made waves in the short time he has designed under his own name. He studied jewelry at Geneva’s esteemed Haute École d’Arts Appliqués, then spent three years at work in Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewelry atelier.

20191106 EmmanuelTarpin necklaceThis necklace from the Prologue collection is one-of-a-kind. It’s rendered in 18-karat white gold and set with 3,428 black diamonds (70.62 total carats), 1,976 white diamonds (32.86 total carats) and 1,107 gray diamonds (24.83 total carats).
In 2017, he launched his eponymous brand, inspired by the curving lines found in flora and fauna, and often rendered in materials like aluminum. That same year, his Geranium Leaf aluminum earrings sold at Christie’s.

2019 has also been an eventful year for Tarpin. Town & Country named Tarpin “Designer of the Year” at its jewelry awards in January. In May, Tarpin participated in Sotheby’s “In Bloom” exhibition of new and vintage floral jewelry.

Tarpin said of his residency with De Grisogono, “I like the maison’s notion of volume as well as its exuberance, which makes each of its pieces so interesting. De Grisogono thinks independently and it is so daring, a quality that today is becoming very rare.

“We also share a common notion of innovation and design and a love of delighting with surprise. I very much need to experiment, and I am looking forward to carrying out these experiments within De Grisogono’s ateliers, where everything will be done by hand, just as De Grisogono and I like to do it.”

Tarpin’s second and third collections for the jewelry house will debut in 2020.

Get the Daily News >
National Jeweler

Fine Jewelry Industry News

Since 1906, National Jeweler has been the must-read news source for smart jewelry professionals--jewelry retailers, designers, buyers, manufacturers, and suppliers. From market analysis to emerging jewelry trends, we cover the important industry topics vital to the everyday success of jewelry professionals worldwide. National Jeweler delivers the most urgent jewelry news necessary for running your day-to-day jewelry business here, and via our daily e-newsletter, website and other specialty publications, such as "The State of the Majors." National Jeweler is published by Jewelers of America, the leading nonprofit jewelry association in the United States.