Pictured is a design from Emmanuel Tarpin’s first of three capsule collections for De Grisogono as part of its new, year-long Creativity-in-Residence program.
Geneva—De Grisogono has announced the creation of an artist-in-residence program and kicked off the initiative with an exciting jewelry up-and-comer.
The Geneva-based jewelry house tapped 27-year-old buzzed-about French designer Emmanuel Tarpin to create three mini collections as part of its year-long “Creativity-in-Residence” project.
Emmanuel TarpinCalled “Prologue,” the capsule collection comprises six pieces that mimic a ribbon’s undulating swirls, rendered in black and white diamonds.
The collection’s statement necklace is one-of-a-kind, while the other five pieces, including a bracelet, ring, hoop earring and ear jackets, are available in editions of 20 through De Grisogono boutiques.
Prologue showcases dramatic volume and exquisite technical prowess that lend the jewels a sculptural quality, while creating an unabashedly feminine and whimsical mood with a strong sense of play.
De Grisogono CEO Céline Assimon explained in a statement that Tarpin was the ideal inaugural candidate for the Creativity-in-Residence program as, “there is a definite link between Emmanuel Tarpin’s universe of creation and ours, at the heart of which is a great freedom to create, to dare and to surprise.
“Emmanuel is one of the few artists to have the technical knowledge as well as the understanding of the process of making high jewelry in the atelier…Few designers have such a deep connection to the art of the craftsmen and women throughout the entire process of creation, from initial sketch to finished masterpiece.”
With his one-of-a-kind designs sold at Siegelson in New York City, Tarpin has made waves in the short time he has designed under his own name. He studied jewelry at Geneva’s esteemed Haute École d’Arts Appliqués, then spent three years at work in Van Cleef & Arpels’ high jewelry atelier.
This necklace from the Prologue collection is one-of-a-kind. It’s rendered in 18-karat white gold and set with 3,428 black diamonds (70.62 total carats), 1,976 white diamonds (32.86 total carats) and 1,107 gray diamonds (24.83 total carats). In 2017, he launched his eponymous brand, inspired by the curving lines found in flora and fauna, and often rendered in materials like aluminum. That same year, his Geranium Leaf aluminum earrings sold at Christie’s.
2019 has also been an eventful year for Tarpin. Town & Country named Tarpin “Designer of the Year” at its jewelry awards in January. In May, Tarpin participated in Sotheby’s “In Bloom” exhibition of new and vintage floral jewelry.
Tarpin said of his residency with De Grisogono, “I like the maison’s notion of volume
as well as its exuberance, which makes each of its pieces so interesting. De Grisogono thinks independently and it is so daring, a quality that today is becoming very rare.
“We also share a common notion of innovation and design and a love of delighting with surprise. I very much need to experiment, and I am looking forward to carrying out these experiments within De Grisogono’s ateliers, where everything will be done by hand, just as De Grisogono and I like to do it.”
Tarpin’s second and third collections for the jewelry house will debut in 2020.
Bracelet in 18-karat white gold with 866 white diamonds (6.95 total carats) and 633 black diamonds (8.71 carats)
Earrings in 18-karat white gold set with 955 white diamonds (8.66 total carats) and 963 black diamonds (9.26 total carats)
A rendering of the de Grisogono x Emmanuel Tarpin hoop earring
18-karat white gold ring with 686 white diamonds (5.01 carats) and 391 black diamonds (4.22 carats)
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.
