Editors

These 10 Designers Are About To Be the Talk of Couture

EditorsMay 30, 2019

These 10 Designers Are About To Be the Talk of Couture

Get to know the jewelry trade show’s new Design Atelier class.

20190530_DAPreview.jpg
A ring from Prounis, one of ten designers new to the Couture show’s Design Atelier this year.

It’s all happening.

As Las Vegas jewelry week kicks off, retailers are on the lookout for the new and noteworthy, and there’s no better place to start than the Couture show’s Design Atelier.

An incubator for fresh jewelry talent, the DA can act as a launching pad for emerging brands to get in front of some of the world’s most influential retail tastemakers.

This year, 10 brands are joining the Couture fray as they make their DA debuts at the jewelry trade show. Here’s an introduction, and yes, no matter how busy the week, you should make time for each of them.


Jewelers in need of a fresh design perspective need look no further than Aisha Baker. Designed by duo Aisha Baker and Hoonik Chang out of Dubai and crafted by artisans in London, the brand hits several current jewelry trend boxes (Enamel? Check. Color? Whimsy? Check and check.) but is still original.

Check out their graphic, puzzle-like rings that bring to mind chaotic cityscapes, and their overtly feminine ribbon-inspired collection, as seen above.


At the moment, designers are infatuated with enamel and the robust variety of color options the medium provides. Andy Lif is having a romance with plique-a-jour enamel, to be specific, and its somewhat translucent quality.

The way in which the designer frames his enamel with gold is reminiscent of stained glass. He also shares his penchant for color through a variety of mouthwatering gemstones he sets as solitaires.


It’s difficult to do Italian designer Anna Maccieri Rossi justice with words. To say that a pendant features meticulously hand-engraved mother-of-pearl doesn’t quite suffice in communicating the designer’s originality.

Nonetheless, I’ll give it a shot. She’s taking Swiss watchmaking techniques to jewelry, incorporating moving parts into a cuff, for example. Applying painstakingly esoteric levels of craftsmanship to her depictions of natural motifs like the night sky, a wolf, or a bear lends these subjects a surreal, almost mythical quality. The bottom line: Check it out in person to experience the full effect.


Like Anna Maccieri Rossi, Bia Tambelli has shown at jewelry trade show Vicenzaoro’s DA counterpart, “The Design Room.”

The Brazilian designer’s latest collection finds her ruminating on the universal perfection of geometry and the significance of particular numbers and shapes across various religions and philosophies. Tambelli expresses these ideas in elaborate pyramid-shaped rings and cuffs that feel like mini sculptures.


Liza Borzaya High Jewellery
creates just that—one-of-a-kind pieces with spectacular stones. The Russian designer has a particular affinity for a hand bracelet, and this is where her imagination seem to run the most wild, portraying whimsical vignettes of various flora and fauna.


In the small amount of time since she’s launched her eponymous line, Jean Prounis has garnered a buzz among press, earning a much coveted spot in Town & Country editor Will Khan’s “Will’s Notebook” Instagram account, which subsequently ended up in The New York Times (a press coup if there ever was one).

The adoration is based on talent. The young designer is informed by her Greek heritage and seeks ancient inspiration to create utterly timeless pieces in 22-karat gold, in a specific alloy she customized. She also shows a surprising amount of restraint and design maturity for a jeweler in her 20s, which is sure to resonate with stores.


Graphic, geometric silhouettes and plenty of diamond and gemstone bling create the fierce elegance that is Ralph Masri.

The Lebanese designer might be new to Couture, but he’s not quite under the radar. Among his many admirers is Queen Rania, who is often photographed in Masri’s jewels.


French-American Sandrine de Laage is a jewelry world veteran, having worked for the likes of Cartier, Harry Winston and De Beers. Perhaps honing her talents at brands with mass appeal explain why her jewelry possesses such a wearable ease.

Interlocking rings and sleek ID bracelets are no-brainers for the self-purchaser—they’re classic but with a contemporary, cool feel, the perfect base of an excellent jewelry wardrobe.


Look at Satta Matturi’s Instagram, and you can see the namesake designer’s favorite piece of jewelry to create is an earring.

Intricate metalwork accented with an array of diamonds, and always a splash of colored gemstone, fan out from earlobes, each style slightly more elaborate than the next.


If State Property had to be expressed in one piece of jewelry, I’d put my money on a cocktail ring.

Large-scale and symmetrical with enamel, diamonds and gemstones are all elements that add up to produce some seriously covetable and hard-to-miss ring styles.
Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

202.18 carat fancy intense yellow diamond The Yellow Rose
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Christie’s Holds 2 Sales Despite Cyberattack

Though its website has been down for a week, Christie’s proceeded with its jewelry and watch auctions on May 13-14, bringing in nearly $80 million.

The Allnatt yellow diamond
AuctionsMay 16, 2024
Sotheby’s Withdraws 101-Carat Yellow Diamond from Auction

Despite the absence of “The Allnatt,” Sotheby’s Geneva jewelry auction totaled $34 million, with 90 percent of lots sold.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsMay 16, 2024
The PR Adviser: What the Designer Should’ve Done

Lilian Raji gives advice to designers on how to make the most of great publicity opportunities.

Royal Chain gold chains
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.

Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.

Mothae Diamond Mine Lesotho
SourcingMay 16, 2024
Lucapa to Shed Stake in Lesotho Diamond Mine

The mining company wants to divest its 70 percent holding in the Mothae Diamond Mine in an effort to streamline its portfolio.

Weekly QuizMay 09, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Take the Quiz
National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith
ColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire Brands

Why do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.

The Argyle Phoenix red diamond
AuctionsMay 15, 2024
Red Diamond Breaks Records at Phillips Geneva

The “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.

Header image w logo.jpg
Brought to you by
From Registration to Return: 10 Tips to Protect You Before, During and After a Tradeshow

Tradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.

Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 2024 recipients
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2024
See Who’s in JA’s 2024 ‘20 Under 40’ Class

The annual list recognizes young professionals making an impact in jewelry retail.

David Mann jewelry store
IndependentsMay 15, 2024
David Mann Jewelers in Upstate NY to Close After 35 Years

Owner David Mann is heading into retirement.

Brilliant Earth Logan Hollowell jewelry collection
FinancialsMay 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth’s Sales Fall Flat in Q1

While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.

Rough diamonds from De Beers
SourcingMay 14, 2024
Anglo American Confirms It Is Looking to Sell De Beers

The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”

The Yellow Rose and the Allnatt yellow diamonds
AuctionsMay 14, 2024
2 Huge Yellow Diamonds Are Heading to Auction

Christie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.

Born Leaders Platinum Born campaign
MajorsMay 14, 2024
Platinum Born Taps ‘Born Leaders’ for New Campaign

The ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.

Instappraise Trifold Brochure
GradingMay 14, 2024
Instappraise Adds Trifold Brochure to Appraisal Offerings

Retailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.

White, pink, and blue lab-grown diamonds from Lightbox
Lab-GrownMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%

The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.

Christie’s New York
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed

The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.

Madeleine K. Albright’s Patriotic Leopard Brooch
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | Hindman

The late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.

Zachary’s Jewelers Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest winners
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest Winners

Three fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.

Kimberly Adams Russell
IndependentsMay 10, 2024
Frank Adams Jewelers Names New CEO

Kimberly Adams Russell is taking over the role from her father, David Adams, marking the third generation to hold the title.

Birth of Venus necklace
CollectionsMay 10, 2024
Piece of the Week: Carina Hardy’s ‘Birth of Venus’ Necklace

As a token of womanhood, this necklace depicts when Venus was born from the sea.

Roberto Coin Fleur de Lis jewelry
MajorsMay 09, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Pays $130M for Roberto Coin Inc.

The deal gives the retailer control over the distribution of Roberto Coin jewelry in the U.S., Canada, Caribbean, and Central America.

Lauren K Mosaic necklace
TrendsMay 09, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Shine Bright, Moms  

Show your mother some love with a piece of fine jewelry.

Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry
IndependentsMay 09, 2024
Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry to Close Salisbury Store

The company’s Easton location will remain open.

Jewelers Board of Trade logo
MajorsMay 09, 2024
JBT Elects New Chairman

Brian D. Fleming of Carla Corporation was elected to serve a one-year term in the role.

Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show Bracelets
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2024
Fusing Past and Present at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show

Rendering of M.S. Rau pop-up shop in Aspen, Colorado
IndependentsMay 07, 2024
112-Year-Old New Orleans Business Popping Up in Aspen

M.S. Rau is set to open a seasonal gallery in the high-end resort town early next month.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy