Events & Awards

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

Events & AwardsFeb 11, 2019

From Tucson: Hot Stones and a Changing Market

At AGTA GemFair, the Gemworld International team addressed the health of the global market and which gemstones are resonating with consumers right now.

20190211_Nomads-spinel.jpg
At a session during AGTA GemFair Tucson, Gemworld International said more consumers are buying by color rather than stone type, including a continued popularity in pinks and reds. Pictured here is a 22-carat pink spinel from Gems by Nomads.

Tucson, Ariz.—Every year in Tucson during the gem shows, Gemworld International gives an update on market trends and other pertinent topics in the gem sector.

This year, President Richard Drucker and Vice President Stuart Robertson addressed the health of the global market and which stones are resonating with consumers right now.

Here are six points they covered during their session at the AGTA GemFair jewelry trade show.

1. The U.S. market is changing.

Robertson said price points in the market have been lower of late as the American wealth structure has changed.

The U.S. is still the main market for the gem world, but more high-quality pieces are selling overseas now. The condensing of the market, due in large part to the internet, and the increased competition it has bred has also been a driver for this change, he added.

There have been record prices in certain categories, especially at auction, which is “skewing the perception of the overall market.” These strong sales represent the top end of the market only, he said.

2. The “new” industry is doing a good job telling the stories behind the gems.

Young members of the industry understand the importance of gem sourcing and of bringing the story in front of the consumer, Robertson said.

Today’s designers have little interest in memo because that’s not the way they’re doing business—they’re buying small amounts and operating out of small galleries or studios, focusing more on jewelry as art and paying for things as they go.

RELATED CONTENT: The Next Generation: David Bindra of B & B Fine Gems
“Companies that are operating mostly on memo goods have really no vested interest in understanding the story or understanding sourcing in this industry because they have no connection to it. Their money is not on the line; they have other people’s money on the line. That’s an interesting contrast that we’ve been able to note here,” he said.

3. There is stricter enforcement of mineral industry regulations in important source countries.

The increased control of gem material by source countries is driven by a need to create more beneficiation for the local communities, Robertson said, noting that some of these countries are starting to realize the importance and value of their natural resources.

Many are now evaluating their industries, and programs to add beneficiation are spreading across countries like Burma, Tanzania and Ethiopia.

This will ultimately
result in higher prices for the trade but “for probably the right reasons,” he said.

4. The sector is seeing the two-tier market continue.

The market for high-end, natural goods is strong because supply is tight, especially in the case of ruby, emerald, sapphire and Paraiba tourmaline.

The lower end—meaning both lower-quality goods as well as less expensive gemstones, like blue topaz and citrine—is overproduced and prices are soft, Robertson said, noting that it is losing market share to unique stones and lesser-known gems that are about the same price.

The middle portion of the market, traditionally the bread-and-butter of the industry, has been “disappointing” the last few years. It was moving upward but then went flat last year and is fairly weak again.

5. Here’s what’s happening with the “big three.”

In Burma, ruby production has been strong again as miners aim to produce enough material before the country’s expected regulations kick in.

Supply in East Africa is very strong, with the main source continuing to be Mozambique, where large-scale production is displacing much of the artisanal mining.

For now, the ruby market is stable, Robertson said, but noted that demand and prices are slightly lower for heated stones.

And whereas ruby traditionally has occupied about 20 of the market share that sapphire does, there’s been so much production in recent years that it’s nearly on par with sapphire now, Robertson said.

This will be important for pricing of rubies going forward, especially as the question remains of whether demand will be there to support such strong supply.

“I think that does have some implications for the pricing going forward because the reality is there’s really nothing to suggest that the appetite for the material will equal that for sapphire. Long-term we do expect prices to soften, especially on heated material.”

Sapphires, meanwhile, are still the top-selling gem in the world market, especially in the West. The blue and blue-green/teal sapphires continue to be popular.

There’s a decent supply of sapphire as Asian and African sources continue producing. Pricing for natural stones have gone up, especially the higher-grade material, and are likely to continue to rise as source countries tighten control.

While demand for emeralds was better than expected in 2018, that excitement is starting to wane, Robertson said—treatment issues for emeralds are the most confusing among the big three and have led to an ongoing debate in the trade about how they are disclosed and communicated on lab reports.
RELATED CONTENT: State of the Colored Gemstones Market—All Together Now?
Colombian emeralds remain the benchmark for pricing of all emeralds, he said.

Ethiopian emerald production has slowed as the government assesses its resources, while Zambian production is “OK” and production from Brazil is small.

6. Here are the market’s “must-haves.”

Pink- and red-colored gems continue to be in demand, with consumers increasingly purchasing by color rather than gem varietal, Drucker said. This has boosted demand for stones like morganite, spinel and tourmaline.

He added that blues are always reliable sellers and gemstones in peach/soft orange shades are doing well. However, the key for the market is to be different when it comes to gems, offering sapphire slices or other unusual materials.

Garnets are seeing a resurgence in popularity—with rhodolite making a splash with designers, and spessartite and tsavorite among the top-selling gems in their color categories—as are other shades of zoisite, building off the high demand for tanzanite.
Brecken Branstratoris the senior editor, gemstones at National Jeweler, covering sourcing, pricing and other developments in the colored stone sector.

The Latest

Retrouvaí’s Treasure Necklace
CollectionsApr 19, 2024
Piece of the Week: Retrouvaí’s Treasure Necklace

A new addition to the “Heirloom” collection, this one-of-a-kind piece features 32 custom-cut gemstones.

Stock image crime handcuffs
CrimeApr 19, 2024
Grand Jury to Hear Case Against Jeweler Charged in Fatal Shove Following IJO Show

Last month in Dallas, David Walton pushed another jeweler, David Ettinger, who later died.

China Pearl collage
MajorsApr 19, 2024
Unique Designs Acquires China Pearl

The move will allow the manufacturing company to offer a more “diverse and comprehensive” range of products.

1-(3.18).JPG
Brought to you by
The Blueprint for Success in Scalable, Personalized Jewelry Retail

With Ho Brothers, you can unlock your brand's true potential and offer customers the personalized jewelry experiences they desire.

Printed and digital AGS Ideal grading reports
GradingApr 19, 2024
AGS Ideal Report Now Available in Printed Form

From now through mid-May, GIA will be offering the reports at a 50 percent discount.

Weekly QuizApr 19, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
Take the Quiz
Stock image of a polished diamond in tweezers
SourcingApr 18, 2024
Diamond Trade Remains Cautious Amid Economic Uncertainty

De Beers’ rough diamond sales were down 18 percent year-over-year in its latest round of sales.

LVAJWS24_carousel_images_1872x1052_1.jpg
Supplier BulletinApr 18, 2024
Discover History’s Hidden Gems at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Sponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show

Jewelers of America Fly In Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your Business

For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.

Kelly Yoch
WatchesApr 18, 2024
Watch E-tailer Collectability Hires Kelly Yoch

The Patek Philippe expert will serve as personal curator for the brand-focused company.

Interior of TAG Heuer Boutique on Carnival Cruise Ship
WatchesApr 18, 2024
TAG Heuer Opens Its Largest Standalone Boutique at Sea

The 553-square-foot shop is aboard the Carnival Jubilee cruise ship.

 Stock image of a gavel
Policies & IssuesApr 17, 2024
NDC Prevails in U.K. Case Over Lab-Grown Diamond Advertising

NDC filed a complaint against Skydiamond for use of phrases like “diamonds made entirely from the sky.”

Visual from Tiffany & Co.’s With Love Since 1837 campaign
FinancialsApr 17, 2024
LVMH’s Q1 Jewelry Sales Fall 5%

LVMH said the company performed well despite an uncertain geopolitical and economic environment.

 B&D ribbon cutting in RI
MajorsApr 17, 2024
Stuller’s B&D Opens New Headquarters

B&D Sales and Service held a ribbon-cutting event for its new location in Cranston, Rhode Island.

Model Wearing Eat Cake Collection
CollectionsApr 16, 2024
Akaila Reid Launches ‘Eat Cake’ Collection

It’s ultra-feminine and filled with gold, pearls, and soft pastels.

Emily Highet Morgan, Emily Bennett
MajorsApr 16, 2024
Loudr Adds 2 Directors

Emily Highet Morgan and Emily Bennett have joined the agency’s team.

Stuller catalogs
MajorsApr 16, 2024
Stuller Releases First Lab-Grown Diamond Jewelry Catalog

Its updated book for mountings is also now available.

Headshot of Karen Rentmeesters
SourcingApr 16, 2024
Karen Rentmeesters Takes Over as Interim CEO of AWDC

She has been with the organization since 2010, most recently serving as its chief officer of PR and industry relations.

Joyce’s Jewelry
TechnologyApr 15, 2024
Judge Rules Jeweler’s Lawsuit Against PNC Bank Can Move Forward

Joyce’s Jewelry sued the bank after cybercriminals drained its accounts of nearly $1.6 million through a series of wire transfers.

Alfred W. DeScenza
IndependentsApr 15, 2024
Alfred W. DeScenza of DeScenza Diamonds Dies at 95

He is remembered by loved ones for his loyalty, integrity, and kindness.

Madeleine K. Albright
AuctionsApr 15, 2024
Madeleine K. Albright Jewelry, Pins Coming to Auction

Hosted by Freeman’s | Hindman, the sale will take place May 7-8.

Audemars Piguet circa 1985 emerald car watch
AuctionsApr 15, 2024
All of Sotheby’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Sold in Less Than an Hour

The auction house said all 24 timepieces offered in its underground sale of rare and avant-garde watches quickly found buyers.

My Next Question webinar
Recorded WebinarsApr 12, 2024
Watch: What Jewelers Need to Know About Insurance

From cybersecurity liability to trade show coverage, insurance experts share tips on how to build the right policy.

Evil Eye Charm with Turquoise Disc
CollectionsApr 12, 2024
Piece of the Week: Lionheart’s Evil Eye Gemstone Charm

The charm is a modern rendition of the evil eye amulet that has been worn for thousands of years.

The Jewelry Symposium scholarship winners 2024
Events & AwardsApr 12, 2024
The Jewelry Symposium Announces 4 Scholarship Winners

Ahead of its trade show next month, TJS awarded free registration and accommodations to one jewelry professional and three students.

SRK Empire and SRK House
Policies & IssuesApr 11, 2024
SRK Exports’ Journey Toward Net Zero Impact

By the end of this year, SRK’s diamond manufacturing complexes will achieve net zero emissions, one of an impressive array of achievements.

AGTA logo
Lab-GrownApr 11, 2024
AGTA Bans Lab-Grown Diamonds, Gemstones at GemFair

Members can still sell lab-grown stones, it said, but only natural gems are allowed on the show floor.

Steven Rosdal
IndependentsApr 11, 2024
Steven Rosdal, Co-Founder of Hyde Park Jewelers, Dies at 77

He is remembered for his charisma, passion, integrity, kindness, and wit.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy