ColumnistsMay 15, 2024
Squirrel Spotting: Why Retailers Struggle to Fire BrandsWhy do so many jewelers keep lines that are not selling? Peter Smith thinks the answer lies in these two behavioral principles.
SurveysFeb 09, 2017
1,564 Jewelry Businesses Ceased Operations in 2016
The figure from the Jewelers Board of Trade includes the U.S. and Canada and represents a 64 percent increase over the prior year.
Warwick, R.I.--Year-end statistics from the Jewelers Board of Trade are what we thought they would be.
After rising sharply throughout the year, the number of retail jewelers, wholesalers and manufacturers in the United States and Canada that closed down in 2016 totaled 1,564, compared with 956 in 2015.
That is a 64 percent year-over-year increase.
Breaking it down by category, there were 1,190 retail jewelers in the U.S. and Canada that ceased operations, up 53 percent from 2015; 235 wholesalers, up 81 percent; and 139 manufacturers, up 190 percent.
Including consolidations (sales/mergers) and bankruptcies, the total number of business discontinuances reached 1,718 in 2016, a 54 percent increase over 2015.
In an interview with National Jeweler on Tuesday, JBT President Anthony Capuano said the fact that business discontinuances increased did not surprise him, though end number of closures was slightly higher than expected.
RELATED CONTENT: Demographic Drop-offHe said that the main factor driving the increased rate of closures is that many business owners are at or near the age of retirement, and they are finding themselves at the helm of companies that are no longer as robust as they once were with, in many cases, no next generation waiting to enter the family business.
RELATED CONTENT: What It Feels Like to Close My StoreDuring the interview, Capuano also addressed an online conversation that cropped up following publication of the JBT’s third quarter statistics about jewelers shuttering their stores but remaining in the business either as private, appointment-only jewelers or custom designers.
The commenter felt that the JBT’s numbers for jewelry store closures were inflated because they did not take into account these individuals, but Capuano said they are not.
“That might be some of them, but it’s certainly not 1,190 of them.
“I don’t believe that 1,190 (jewelers) are going to home businesses, or seasonal businesses or part-time businesses. I think the majority of them are just discontinuances,” he said.
He added that even if some jewelers are remaining active in the industry, a store closure “still represents a contraction in the business; they don’t have a reason to open full time in a distinct location.”
New Business Openings
While more companies continue to exit the industry, new business listings have remained relatively flat over the past three years, with the JBT adding about 260 to 290 new jewelry business listings in the
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
U.S. and Canada each year.
In 2014, there were 261 new jewelry business recorded by the JBT. The following year, that number rose to 289 but fell again in 2016, to 275. The Northeast and the Southeast accounted for the majority of new listings last year.
“There are people willing to take a chance in this business,” Capuano said.
He also noted that retailers accounted for the vast majority of new businesses in the industry last year. There were 218 new jewelers, compared with 43 wholesalers and 18 new manufacturers.
At the end of 2016, JBT’s total listings stood at 27,950: 21,007 retailers, 4,119 manufacturers and 2,824 manufacturers in North America. That is down 6 percent from 2015.
Here are some other trends for 2016, as outlined by the JBT:
--Bankruptcies continued to decline, totaling 34 in 2016 compared to 40 in 2015. (On a comparative note, that number was three times as high around the peak of the financial crisis.)
Capuano said the jewelry industry is not alone in seeing bankruptcies slide, as it is a trend being seen in many industries nationwide. Company bankruptcies as a whole in the U.S. were down 2 percent year-over-year in the first three quarters of 2016, with what filings there were concentrated in the oil, gas and energy exploration industries.
--Business consolidations (mergers and acquisitions) were relatively flat year-over-year, 118 in 2016 vs. 114 in 2015. Capuano said there are fewer interested parties that want to buy a brand, company or a store in a nearby market today.
--Credit rating metrics remained stable, with an upgrade to downgrade ratio of 0.97x at year-end compared with 0.95x at the end of 2015.
--Collection claim activity was down, and so was the size of the average claim, which fell 8 percent to $7,299.
In 2017, Capuano said he expects consolidation to continue. While the rate at which businesses are closing might abate slightly, he does not expect the trend to reverse itself this year.
In 2014, there were 261 new jewelry business recorded by the JBT. The following year, that number rose to 289 but fell again in 2016, to 275. The Northeast and the Southeast accounted for the majority of new listings last year.
“There are people willing to take a chance in this business,” Capuano said.
He also noted that retailers accounted for the vast majority of new businesses in the industry last year. There were 218 new jewelers, compared with 43 wholesalers and 18 new manufacturers.
At the end of 2016, JBT’s total listings stood at 27,950: 21,007 retailers, 4,119 manufacturers and 2,824 manufacturers in North America. That is down 6 percent from 2015.
Here are some other trends for 2016, as outlined by the JBT:
--Bankruptcies continued to decline, totaling 34 in 2016 compared to 40 in 2015. (On a comparative note, that number was three times as high around the peak of the financial crisis.)
Capuano said the jewelry industry is not alone in seeing bankruptcies slide, as it is a trend being seen in many industries nationwide. Company bankruptcies as a whole in the U.S. were down 2 percent year-over-year in the first three quarters of 2016, with what filings there were concentrated in the oil, gas and energy exploration industries.
--Business consolidations (mergers and acquisitions) were relatively flat year-over-year, 118 in 2016 vs. 114 in 2015. Capuano said there are fewer interested parties that want to buy a brand, company or a store in a nearby market today.
--Credit rating metrics remained stable, with an upgrade to downgrade ratio of 0.97x at year-end compared with 0.95x at the end of 2015.
--Collection claim activity was down, and so was the size of the average claim, which fell 8 percent to $7,299.
In 2017, Capuano said he expects consolidation to continue. While the rate at which businesses are closing might abate slightly, he does not expect the trend to reverse itself this year.
More on Surveys
The Latest
AuctionsMay 15, 2024
Red Diamond Breaks Records at Phillips GenevaThe “Argyle Phoenix” sold for more than $4 million at the auction house’s second jewels sale.
Events & AwardsMay 15, 2024
See Who’s in JA’s 2024 ‘20 Under 40’ ClassThe annual list recognizes young professionals making an impact in jewelry retail.
Brought to you by
Record Gold Prices Have Consumers Undeterred. Here’s Why.Despite the rising prices, consumers continue to seek out the precious metal.
IndependentsMay 15, 2024
David Mann Jewelers in Upstate NY to Close After 35 YearsOwner David Mann is heading into retirement.
Weekly QuizMay 09, 2024
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these seven questions.
FinancialsMay 15, 2024
Brilliant Earth’s Sales Fall Flat in Q1 While overall sales were sluggish, the retailer said its non-bridal fine jewelry was a popular choice for Valentine’s Day.
SourcingMay 14, 2024
Anglo American Confirms It Is Looking to Sell De Beers The mining giant also wants to offload its platinum business as part of an overhaul designed to “unlock significant value.”
Brought to you by
From Registration to Return: 10 Tips to Protect You Before, During and After a TradeshowTradeshow risks are real. Get tips to protect yourself before, during and after and gain safety and security awareness for your business.
AuctionsMay 14, 2024
2 Huge Yellow Diamonds Are Heading to AuctionChristie's is selling one of the diamonds, moving forward with its Geneva jewelry auction despite the cyberattack that took down its website.
MajorsMay 14, 2024
Platinum Born Taps ‘Born Leaders’ for New CampaignThe ad aims to position platinum jewelry as ideal for everyday wear.
GradingMay 14, 2024
Instappraise Adds Trifold Brochure to Appraisal OfferingsRetailers can customize and print the appraisal brochures from their store.
Lab-GrownMay 13, 2024
Lab-Grown Diamond Brand Lightbox Cuts Prices by 25 to 40%The move follows a price-drop test run in Q4 and comes with the addition of a “quality assurance card” from GIA for some loose diamonds.
TechnologyMay 13, 2024
Christie’s Website Brought Down by Hackers, Watch Auction Postponed The site has been down since Thursday evening, just ahead of its spring auctions.
AuctionsMay 13, 2024
Madeleine Albright’s Jewelry, Pins a White-Glove Sale at Freeman’s | HindmanThe late former U.S. Secretary’s collection went for quadruple the sale’s pre-sale estimate.
IndependentsMay 13, 2024
Zachary’s Jewelers Names Mother’s Day Jewelry Contest WinnersThree fifth graders’ winning designs were turned into custom jewelry pieces in time for Mother’s Day.
IndependentsMay 10, 2024
Frank Adams Jewelers Names New CEOKimberly Adams Russell is taking over the role from her father, David Adams, marking the third generation to hold the title.
CollectionsMay 10, 2024
Piece of the Week: Carina Hardy’s ‘Birth of Venus’ NecklaceAs a token of womanhood, this necklace depicts when Venus was born from the sea.
MajorsMay 09, 2024
Watches of Switzerland Pays $130M for Roberto Coin Inc.The deal gives the retailer control over the distribution of Roberto Coin jewelry in the U.S., Canada, Caribbean, and Central America.
TrendsMay 09, 2024
Amanda’s Style File: Shine Bright, Moms Show your mother some love with a piece of fine jewelry.
IndependentsMay 09, 2024
Kyle Edward Fine Jewelry to Close Salisbury StoreThe company’s Easton location will remain open.
MajorsMay 09, 2024
JBT Elects New ChairmanBrian D. Fleming of Carla Corporation was elected to serve a one-year term in the role.
Supplier BulletinMay 08, 2024
Fusing Past and Present at the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch ShowSponsored by the Las Vegas Antique Jewelry and Watch Show
EditorsMay 07, 2024
Q&A: Author Vikki Tobak on the ‘Ice-Cold’ ExhibitionTobak, author of “Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History,” shares how the exhibition came to be, and the pieces people may be surprised to see.
EditorsMay 07, 2024
10 On-Theme Looks from the 2024 Met GalaStars adorned themselves in emeralds, platinum, and myriad bird motifs, writes Associate Editor Natalie Francisco.
IndependentsMay 07, 2024
112-Year-Old New Orleans Business Popping Up in Aspen M.S. Rau is set to open a seasonal gallery in the high-end resort town early next month.
MajorsMay 07, 2024
Richemont Acquires Italian Jeweler VhernierThe branded jewelry market is thriving, said Richemont Chairman Johann Rupert.
CollectionsMay 07, 2024
These ‘Luminaries’ Are Set to Light Up CoutureThe six designers, all participants in the show’s Diversity Action Council mentorship program, will exhibit in Salon 634.
