Our Pieces of the Week honor the 2026 nominees for the Gem Award for Jewelry Design, Silvia Furmanovich, Cece Fein-Hughes, and Catherine Sarr.
Patek Philippe Given to 1918 Pandemic Doctor Heads to Auction
Physician Rupert Blue led the U.S. through several disease outbreaks in the early 1900s and eventually was named surgeon general.

Dallas—In 1918, a devastating pandemic known as the Spanish flu was ravaging the United States, and many of the measures taken, and lessons learned, then mirror those of the current crisis.
It’s very timely, then, that an 18-karat gold Patek Philippe pocket watch owned by the doctor who helped guide the U.S. through that pandemic more than a century ago will go up for auction next month at Heritage Auctions in Dallas.
At the time of the Spanish flu outbreak, Rupert Blue served as surgeon general.
He counseled Americans to follow a number of protocols that will sound familiar—wearing facial coverings, practicing social distancing, and closing establishments where large numbers of people gather, like schools and churches.
Blue was only 50 years old at the time the Spanish flu took hold of the country but he’d already navigated several crises as a member of the U.S. Public Health Service, most notably the bubonic plague that swept through San Francisco in two waves—in 1903-1904 and then again from 1907-1908.
Blue understood the disease would only be cured if doctors figured out how it spread and who was impacted.
He established a lab and office in the San Francisco’s Chinatown neighborhood, the center of the outbreak, and embarked on a campaign to disinfect the city and exterminate its rats.
When he left San Francisco to help cities plagued with other issues, its health department awarded Blue with a proclamation thanking him for “his skillful and energetic cooperation in all pertaining to the welfare of San Francisco’s high sanitary state and commercial prosperity.”
For his work eradicating the plague from the city, he received the 18-karat gold Patek Philippe pocket watch.
Its inside dust cover bears the following inscription (as seen in the picture below): “To Rupert Blue P.A. Surgeon, U.S.P.H. and M.H.S. from the citizens of San Francisco. In grateful recognition of services rendered the city while in command of the Sanitation Campaign of 1908.”
The dial of the minute-repeating split-second chronograph features white enamel, Arabic numerals, gold Louis XV hands, and a 30-minute register at 12 o’clock.
The 45 mm case made in 18-karat gold has an invisible hinge, gold cuvette with inscription, gold slide for the repeat on the rim, and split-second buttons in the crown and on the band.
Heritage Auctions Watches & Fine Timepieces Director Jim Wolf said the citizens of San Francisco “spared no expense when choosing
“It was a first-quality, highly complicated watch by the most accomplished maker, and it would have cost a handsome sum—close to $1,000 when manufactured in 1905.”
A decade after he received the watch, Blue served on the frontlines of the nation’s worst pandemic, commanding quarantine stations and enlisting more than 250 doctors into the Public Health Service to fight the Spanish flu, particularly notable at a time when the nation’s ranks of medical professionals had been depleted by World War I.
Blue also served during the yellow fever outbreak in New Orleans in 1905.
In addition to being named surgeon general in 1909, Blue was elected president of the American Medical Association and president of the Association of Military Surgeons of the U.S.A. in 1915.
When his Patek Philippe pocket watch hits the block as part of Heritage Auctions’ June 9 Watches & Fine Timepieces Auction, it’s expected to sell for between $35,000 and $45,000.
The Latest

The 24-piece watch collection is set to debut in spring 2027.

Pooler, who has more than 25 years’ experience in jewelry, is now chief operating officer of Modani Jewels, Soham Diamonds, and SNJ Creations.

Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.

The reopening of the Waldorf Astoria means a homecoming for the industry group’s annual event, which will take place Saturday.


McCormack looked to the 19th century’s “golden age” of astronomy when designing her new celestial-themed collection.

Nelson will be honored as the inaugural grant winner at the Gem Awards gala on Friday.

With refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.

The new smart design software allows jewelers to configure, price, and confirm a custom engagement ring in real time for in-store customers.

The 10,000-square-foot diamond manufacturing facility officially opened in late February and employs 50 people.

The MJSA Education Foundation’s scholarships support students pursuing jewelry careers.

Skelly shares her plans for reimagining the fine jewelry retailer she re-acquired after it faltered last year.

The collection takes inspiration from the emotional space between people, moments, and experiences.

In 2026, the jewelry retailer is celebrating a milestone only a small percentage of family-owned businesses survive to see.

The group of jewelers held a jewelry raffle in support of the Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU.

The jewelry giant released preliminary results for the fourth quarter and full year on Monday, with final results slated to come next week.

The retailer also gave an update on its vendor partnerships.

The award-winning actress is the “epitome of modern allure,” the brand said.

The “Bloom” collection draws from the flower power movement of the 1960s and ‘70s with inlay pendants offered in eight colorways.

The unique piece was one of the custom works offered at the foundation's recent silent art auction, which garnered nearly $15,000 in total.

Bulgari named Gyllenhaal as its brand ambassador for his embodiment of artistic depth, intellectual curiosity, and warmth.

Awards were given to four students, one apprentice, and an emerging jeweler.

Moses, who started at GIA’s Santa Monica lab in 1976, will leave the Gemological Institute of America in May.

Increased competition, falling lab-grown diamond and moissanite prices, and the rising cost of gold took a toll on the moissanite maker.

The earrings, our Piece of the Week, feature pink tourmalines as planets orbiting around an aquamarine center set in 18-karat rose gold.

“The Price of Freedom” campaign video for International Women’s Day confronts the quiet violence of financial control.

Also, a federal judge has ordered that companies that paid tariffs implemented under the IEEPA are entitled to refunds.






















