Auctions

A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction

AuctionsSep 15, 2021

A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction

These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

20210915_Rolex Deep Sea Special profile.jpg
This profile shot of the Rolex “Deep Sea Special” shows the watch’s domed crystal case, designed to withstand extreme pressure. The timepiece is being offered as part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s upcoming Geneva watch auction, scheduled for Nov. 5-7.
Geneva—A rare Rolex watch originally designed to test dive watch depth limits is surfacing at auction this fall and is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.   

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches. 

The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean. 

It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.

For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down. 

Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.

“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.

“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”

20210915_Rolex Deep Sea Special front back.jpg
At left, a front view of the stainless steel Rolex “Deep Sea Special;” at right, the engraved caseback, which features the watch’s number in the series, 35, as well as the date and depth of Rolex’s successful test with the second Deep Sea Special prototype.

The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960. 

Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series. 

Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)  

Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years. 

A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.

The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).

The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.

For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.

The Latest

Henry Kessler, Vance Kessler, Alex Kessler, and Daniel Kessler of Sy Kessler Sales Inc.
Events & AwardsApr 22, 2026
Here’s What Sy Kessler Has on Tap for Las Vegas

The company will have deals on precious metals testers as well as the latest in lab-grown diamond detection technology and security.

Stock image of a gavel and books
CrimeApr 22, 2026
New Mexico Couple Pleads Guilty to Selling Fake Native American Jewelry

The pair falsely claimed their jewelry was made by Navajo artists, but it was imported from Vietnam.

Rachel King and The Tudor Heart book cover
CollectionsApr 22, 2026
British Museum Curator Pens Book on ‘The Tudor Heart’

Rachel King’s book dives into the history of the pendant believed to have belonged to Henry VIII and his first wife, Katherine of Aragon.

Antique Jewelry & Watch Show
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las Vegas

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Chanel Coco Game Haute Horlogerie Chessboard
WatchesApr 21, 2026
Coco Chanel Enters the Game with New Watch Collection

Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is a character in the “Coco Game” collection of watches and the queen in its first haute horlogerie chessboard.

Weekly QuizApr 16, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Jewelers of America 20 Under 40 winners collage
IndependentsApr 21, 2026
Meet Jewelers of America’s 2026 ‘20 Under 40’ Class

The annual list honors rising professionals on the retail and supply sides of the jewelry industry.

Fake Fendi bangle
CrimeApr 21, 2026
Customs Nabs 1,500 Pieces of Counterfeit Jewelry Bound for NYC

Seized in Kentucky, the packages include fake Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Chanel, and Fendi jewelry.

lvajws image 1.jpg
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the Globe

Gain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.

Stock image of a judge’s gavel
CrimeApr 20, 2026
Queens Man Convicted in Bludgeoning Death of Pawn Shop Owner

Rodolfo Lopez-Portillo faces 25 years to life in prison after being found guilty in the March 2022 beating death of Arasb Shoughi.

Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems Book Cover
TrendsApr 20, 2026
Beth Bernstein, Sonia Esther Soltani Pen New Jewelry Book

“Jewelry Creators: Dynamic Duos and Generational Gems” highlights the relationships among 22 influential designers, brands, and gem dealers.

Savannah Convention Center
Events & AwardsApr 20, 2026
Atlanta Jewelry Show’s Spring Event Is Hitting the Road

The AJS Spring 2027 show will be held in Savannah, Georgia, with future shows taking place in other Southeast cities.

Mike McMullen and Adrienne Gernand
MajorsApr 20, 2026
Kendra Scott Names New CFO, Chief Business Officer

The jewelry retailer plans to open 20 new stores this year and expand into new product categories.

Oscar Heyman Multi-Colored Tourmaline and Diamond Flower Necklace
TrendsApr 17, 2026
New (Groundbreaking) Floral Jewelry for Spring 2026

Flower motifs are the jewelry trend blooming amongst the new collections that debuted this spring.

QVC Group logo
MajorsApr 17, 2026
QVC Group Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy

The retailer reported an 8 percent decline in annual sales as it struggles under the weight of billions of dollars of debt.

Edina Kiss Devil Drop Earrings
CollectionsApr 17, 2026
Edina Kiss’ Earrings Are the Devil on Your Shoulder

The “Devil” drop earrings, our Piece of the Week, are part of designer Edina Kiss’ new namesake jewelry line that she will show at Couture.

Stock image of gold bars
CrimeApr 17, 2026
FBI Issues Warning to Refineries, Retailers Due to High Price of Gold

The alert states that burglary crews are targeting jewelry businesses and details how jewelers and refineries can protect themselves.

Cartier Roadster
WatchesApr 16, 2026
Cartier Brings Back the Roadster

The “watchmaker of shapes” debuted the reworked version of the vintage sports car-inspired timepiece at Watches & Wonders.

Edge Retail Academy Ellen Gardner, Jennifer Motes, Mona Lisa Shaffer, Cindi Haddad Drew
IndependentsApr 16, 2026
Edge Retail Academy Updates Leadership Team

As demand for jewelry retail coaching grows, the company has established a dedicated business coaching leadership team.

Stuller Mountings 2026-2027 Catalog
MajorsApr 16, 2026
Stuller’s Latest Mountings Catalog Is Out Now

The “Mountings 2026-2027” catalog showcases Stuller’s largest and most diverse assortment to date with more than 400 new mounting styles.

Screenshots of Episode 4 of the “My Next Question” podcast
PodcastsApr 15, 2026
Episode 4: The Natural Diamond Dilemma

Sally Morrison and Mark Klein discuss De Beers’ first beacon in 16 years and the mistake the industry made with lab-grown diamonds.

Randy McKenzie of Spark Creations
MajorsApr 15, 2026
Spark Creations’ Randy McKenzie Dies at 72

McKenzie spent 45 years with Spark Creations and is remembered for being kind, dedicated, and hardworking.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Watch
WatchesApr 15, 2026
These Are the New Rolex Watches for 2026

Rolex focused exclusively on the Oyster Perpetual this year, as the model is celebrating its 100th anniversary.

Pomellato Nudo blue topaz necklaces
FinancialsApr 15, 2026
Kering’s Jewelry Shines in Q1, Gucci’s Struggle Continues

The luxury giant discussed the Middle East conflict and its transformation plans, hinting at a stronger jewelry presence in North America.

Kalpesh Jhaveri
SourcingApr 15, 2026
Diamond Club West Coast Names 2026 Board

Kalpesh Jhaveri was re-elected as president for a third year.

Diamond Divas
TechnologyApr 15, 2026
This Jewelry Brand’s Video Series Is Up for a Webby Award

“Diamond Divas,” a social media reality series by Shahla Karimi Jewelry, is nominated in the “Best Social: Fashion & Beauty” category.

De Beers Desert Diamonds Bridal Campaign Imagery
SourcingApr 14, 2026
De Beers Expands ‘Desert Diamonds’ Beacon Into Bridal

The campaign seeks to reignite desire for natural diamond engagement rings by highlighting the “distinct character” of warm-toned diamonds.

Model wearing Bulgari Vimini necklace and earrings
FinancialsApr 14, 2026
LVMH’s Q1 Sales Sink 6% Amid Middle East Conflict

Plus, how Saks Global’s bankruptcy affected the luxury giant’s first quarter.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy