A Rolex ‘Deep Sea Special’ Surfaces for Fall Auction
These watches rarely hit the market, and this particular timepiece is expected to sell for as much as $2.6 million.

Rolex created the “Deep Sea Special” in the 1950s in response to increasing demand for waterproof watches.
The company had already created a watch with a waterproof case—the Oyster, which came out in the early 1920s—but now wanted to go deeper by making a watch that could withstand the incredibly high pressure present in the depths of the ocean.
It began testing the first Deep Sea Special prototype in 1953 and, by 1960, had developed a watch that could be submerged to more than 10,000 meters—10,908 meters to be exact.
For reference, that’s 35,789 feet deep, or about 7 miles straight down.
Phillips likened the Deep Sea Special to a Formula One racecar, as it is designed to push the limits of what is possible, testing technologies later used on models serially produced for sale.
“The DSS is the watch that defined what Rolex is today; it is the philosophy behind its creation that led Rolex to focus on tool watches in general and dive watches in particular,” said Alexandre Ghotbi, Phillips’ head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East.
“Without the Deep Sea Special, there would be no Submariner or Sea Dweller as we know it.”
The watch being offered at Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s sale in Geneva is one of a number of commemorative timepieces made to celebrate that first successful deep dive in 1960.
Crafted in stainless steel and gold, the watch was made in 1965 and is No. 35 in the commemorative series.
Phillips said Rolex never offered the Deep Sea Special for public sale. They were all either prototypes entrusted to people like oceanographer Jacques Piccard, who participated in the testing, or given to science and watch museums for display. (The Deep Sea Special No. 3 is currently on display in the Smithsonian.)
Only a handful of Deep Sea Special owners have offered them for sale over the years.
A total of five have been sold in the public sphere, Phillips said, and it has been 12 years since a Deep Sea Special last hit the market.
The Rolex Deep Sea Special will be part of Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo’s “The Geneva Watch Auction: XIV,” scheduled to take place at La Réserve in Geneva from Nov. 5-7.
The watch is estimated to sell for CHF 1.2 million to 2.4 million ($1.3 million to $2.6 million).
The Geneva sale also includes a full set of four Philippe Dufour watches and a complete set of five F.P. Journe’s “Souscription” watches.
For more information on the upcoming Phillips auctions, visit its website.
The Latest

Jim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.

When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.

The “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.

As gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.

The jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.


The Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.

The organization also announced its international board of directors for the 2026-2027 term.

With the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.

Saks Global confirmed the closure this week, spelling the end for a store that’s been part of downtown Dallas for more than 100 years.

Smith discusses how managers should handle a top performer's exit, warning that a poor response could have a lasting impact.

The Gemological Institute of America is now a 30 percent stakeholder in Tracr, the De Beers-backed blockchain for diamonds.

The retailer is bringing Rolex Certified Pre-Owned watches to five U.S. cities in 2026 for collectors to see, try on, and purchase.

The actress and entrepreneur stars in the jeweler’s new campaign that celebrates life’s quiet moments.

The price of gold has risen, affecting the number of pieces designers make, the materials they use, and how they position themselves.

The jewelry retailer is zeroing in on Zales, Jared, Kay Jewelers, and Blue Nile as it looks to create unique brand identities for each.

Dr. Akinwumi Adesina, a development economist, will head the fund created to help Botswana diversify its economy.

Sotheby’s has appointed the former Phillips executive as its global head of private sales and retail in its watches division.

From Gen Z’s view of luxury to “doom spending,” these are the six consumer trends to note this year.

The show started by honoring Mildred Marcano, ended with a tearful Beth Anne Bonanno, and recognized a dozen-plus designers in between.

The revamped online diamond marketplace will feature pricing intelligence and data-driven tools for more efficient buying and selling.

The miner said demand for higher-quality emeralds is stable, but there is notable caution in the market.

The “River of Heaven” necklace, our Piece of the Week debuting at Couture, combines 26 salt and pepper diamonds spaced by Tahitian pearls.

This year’s inductees include second-, third-, and fourth-generation jewelers.

The author, speaker, and entrepreneur will give his presentation, “Spiritual Billionaire,” on Saturday morning.

Three-time Grammy award-winning artist Nelly is set to perform at the annual event at Tao Beach on Sunday night.

Signet will integrate the online-only, natural diamond-focused jeweler into Blue Nile, which it wants to position as a higher-end retailer.

These up-and-coming jewelry brands are bringing their distinct aesthetic and unique point-of-view to the Design Atelier for the first time.

























