EditorsMay 05, 2026
This Ohio Designer’s Jewelry Made It to the Met GalaMegan Piccione dressed Lauren Wasser in layers of diamond jewelry, making her stand out in a crowd that included celebrities like Beyoncé.
Lab-GrownMar 16, 2022
India: An Emerging Source for Lab-Grown Diamonds, Jewelry
CVD diamond growers and jewelry manufacturers will help India consolidate its competitive advantages in diamonds and jewelry manufacturing.
Nine seeds in a CVD reactor may not grow uniformly. Product consistency is therfore of utmost importance in the growing of Lab Grown Diamonds. Image courtesy of ALTR
Mumbai—The demand for lab-grown diamonds and diamond jewelry continues to grow, with companies in India — long a cutting and polishing center for natural stones — poised to become key players in the market.
Estimates on what percentage of the diamond market lab-grown stones currently comprise vary. In a recent interview with National Jeweler, industry analyst Paul Zimnisky put global lab-grown diamond jewelry sales at $5.9 billion last year, making up 7-8 percent of the market.
He estimates global lab-grown diamond jewelry sales could top $8 billion in 2022, approaching 10 percent of the total diamond jewelry market, and near the $10 billion mark by 2023.
Diamonds below smaller than 2 carats are estimated to grow the fastest, with growth in the CVD segment outpacing HPHT.
The colored lab-grown diamond market, meanwhile, is predicted to grow at a CAGR of 10.2 percent.
According to the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council, India exported $1.05 billion worth of polished lab-grown diamonds from April 2021 to January 2022, registering growth of nearly 113 percent.
India exports mainly CVD diamonds and diamond studded diamond-set jewelry using both HPHT and CVD diamonds. Most of the HPHT rough used for jewelry manufacturing is imported from China.
Growers are investing in, and mastering, the new CVD technology to ramp up the production.
Surat, the world leader in diamond cutting and polishing, has in recent times, witnessed a growing number of CVD diamond manufacturers in recent years.
Abhishek Saraiya, vice president of diamond company Meraya, diamonds estimates there are 2,500 active reactors in India, predominantly in Surat, and a few in Jaipur and Mumbai.
“The average monthly output of a typical reactor is 125 carats and costs $175,000. The most commonly used reactor is Japan’s Seki,” he said.
One of the leading manufacturers in Jaipur with an installed base of 80 reactors is Real Illusion LLP.
Director Anup Zaveri said the company has the capacity to grow certified diamonds from 0.5 to 5 carats.
Lumex DMCC has a diamond cutting, polishing and jewelry manufacturing unit in Surat.
Founder Vishal Mehta said, “We use both HPHT and CVD diamonds for jewelry manufacturing. Being technology agnostic, we started with the former as it was the easiest available material.
“The CVD business is becoming more transparent and with supplies improving, we now use both. Surat has 15 to 20 significant CVD growers with an installed base of 50 to 500 reactors.”
Anmol Bhansali, director of Goldiam International, shared his experience in the lab-grown diamond space.
“We started growing diamonds at SEEPZ, Mumbai in 2015 and realized that the growing process of diamonds is quite different from the labor-oriented jewelry manufacturing. The high-tech business requires high-caliber talent, patience and commitment. During the first two years getting the product of desired quality, size and color was a challenge. In 2017 we would be lucky to grow round stones of 1 carat.”
Bhansali continued: “With sustained efforts and persistent experimentation, we were able to get the formula right. We can now produce polished diamonds of 2 carats easily. It is not uncommon to get a smooth production run for two months, followed by an output of cracked and broken stones.
“Consistency is directly linked to profitability in this high fixed-cost business. We hope to increase our current production to 650 polished carats by April 2022.
We grow, cut, polish diamonds, design and manufacture jewelry in-house that is distributed through our U.S. office. Vertical integration adds 20 percent to our bottom line.”
During the last few years of rapid growth, a short-term trading approach is prevalent in the industry, said Amish Shah, president of Altr.
“I believe that owning the entire supply chain requires a long-term vision rather than just finance and talent. In the absence of vertically integrated players, the mid-stream segment in the lab-growth business will be under pressure as it did in the earth-mined category.
“The fragmented supply chain of growers, distributors and retailers operating independently is inefficient. We have positioned Altr as an integrated lab-grown diamond and fine jewelry brand. Retailers are our partners, and we support them with branding and point-of-sale display material.”
Mehta said Lumex’s skill sets are in cutting, polishing, manufacturing and wholesaling lab-grown diamond jewelry to select retailers in the U.S. as well as India. Indian retailer Orra is one of them.
Lumex.online portal’s SEARCH algorithm allows partners to search for the perfect diamond that meet their specific requirements.
“We focus on our strengths and aspire to be the best in our domain. Our partners can access our digital library Lumex.Online and access, with a single click, 3,000 options of white and colored lab-grown diamonds. A natural vivid blue or pink diamond could be priced at $1 million per carat while its lab-grown diamond counterpart is available at a fraction of its cost,” he said.
While Goldiam, Altr and Lumex are integrating their upstream and midstream operations, companies like Renaissance Global and Orra have adopted a D2C direct-to-consumer approach.
SEEPZ Mumbai-headquartered Renaissance has taken a digital-only route to launch its exclusive lab-grown diamond jewelry portal for the millennial consumer.
With three exclusive LGD stores in Mumbai, Pune and Bangalore up and running, Divaa enjoys a prime mover advantage in the Indian market.
Orra’s sub-brand, Divaa, is among the first companies in the world to launch a network of exclusive lab-grown diamond jewelry boutiques. Its online portal gives Divaa an omnichannel presence.
Experts expect that the current growth phase will be followed by price stabilization leading to consolidation, mergers and acquisitions in the industry.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
Experts expect that the current growth phase will be followed by price stabilization leading to consolidation, mergers and acquisitions in the industry.
Note: This story was completed for publication in the special India Diamond Report newsletter prior to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and the U.S.’s subsequent ban on Russian diamonds on March 11.
More on Lab-Grown
The Latest
SourcingMay 05, 2026
Doug Hucker Returns to His RootsFollowing decades of association leadership, the “semi-retired” colored gemstone expert is turning his focus to gemstone education.
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
AMNH to Showcase Famous Jewelry, Trophies in Sports HistoryThe museum’s new exhibition will feature one of Jesse Owen’s Olympic medals, Yogi Berra’s crown, Super Bowl rings, and more.
Brought to you by
Discover Timeless Treasures: A Showcase of Antique Jewelry & Timepieces in Las VegasGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
Events & AwardsMay 05, 2026
JIS Launches Brand Exposure ProgramThe new program provides access to media exposure and editorial opportunities for exhibitors and retailers.
Weekly QuizApr 30, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CollectionsMay 04, 2026
Melanie Georgacopoulos Turns Pearls Into Light for ‘Eclipse’ CollectionThe “Eclipse” jewelry collection captures the fleeting moment where light and shadow align though onyx, diamonds, and freshwater pearls.
ColumnistsMay 04, 2026
The Key Mindset for Better Trade Show BuyingBuying discipline at trade shows starts with clarity about your inventory levels, Smith writes.
Brought to you by
Las Vegas Antique Jewelry & Watch Show: Showcasing the Most Collectible Merchandise from Across the GlobeGain access to the most exclusive and coveted antique pieces from trusted dealers during Las Vegas Jewelry Week.
CrimeMay 04, 2026
Pawn Shop Manager Shot, Killed in FloridaLazaro Rodriguez Vega was murdered inside Cash Out Gold and Silver in Fort Pierce. A 20-year-old man has been charged in the case.
IndependentsMay 04, 2026
Zadok Jewelers, Austin Parks Foundation Support Wildflower PreservationA portion of every engagement ring sold in its Austin showroom will support the care and preservation of Austin’s wildflowers and green spaces.
TechnologyMay 01, 2026
Gemist, Saban Onyx Partner on Retailer-Focused Customization OfferingTheir partnership combines Gemist’s customization technology with Saban Onyx’s U.S.-based manufacturing capabilities.
SurveysMay 01, 2026
Consumer Confidence Inches Up in April Despite Rising Gas PricesRespondents were concerned about the Middle East conflict and how it will impact their finances.
CollectionsMay 01, 2026
A ‘Hidden Garden’ Emerges in Tiffany & Co.’s 2026 Blue BookOur Piece of the Week, the “Butterfly” necklace, showcases a 7.02-carat oval diamond set between diamond, platinum, and 18-karat gold wings.
ColumnistsApr 30, 2026
Peter Smith: A Sleazy Salesman and the Case for Regret Avoidance Smith uses a comment he overheard in the grocery store to remind retailers that their job is to inspire buying behavior, not just sell.
MajorsApr 30, 2026
Claire’s New Summer Campaign Is a Sensory Wonderland for Gen Alpha“A Girl SMR at Claire’s” celebrates girlhood through the five senses with stacked jewelry, slime toys, scented accessories, and ASMR.
AuctionsApr 30, 2026
Vintage Cartier Watch Crashes Through Records, Selling for $2MBelieved to be one of three made in 1987, the Cartier London Crash was hot at the “Shapes of Cartier” sale at Sotheby’s Hong Kong.
CrimeApr 30, 2026
Masked Group Uses Hammers, Pepper Spray in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyOfficials are looking for a group that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers at an outlet mall in Round Rock, Texas, in broad daylight on April 21.
Supplier BulletinApr 30, 2026
OROAREZZO 2026: The B2B Event for Italian Excellence in Goldsmith, Jewelry and Silver ManufacturingSponsored by OROAREZZO International Jewelry Exhibition
TechnologyApr 29, 2026
The Thought Process Behind the Mother's Day Email Opt-OutSome retailers are taking a nuanced approach to marketing what can be a difficult holiday for many.
IndependentsApr 29, 2026
Dick Abbott to Retire From The EdgeThe Edge has announced its new CEO, as well as a new partnership with an investment firm focused on founder-led software businesses.
SourcingApr 29, 2026
De Beers’ Production Rises, Market Remains ‘Challenged’De Beers’ diamond production was up 17 percent in Q1, boosted by increased output at its mines in South Africa and Canada.
AuctionsApr 29, 2026
This'll Be the Day You Own John Wayne's RingA signet ring belonging to the Western film star of Hollywood’s Golden Age will be up for auction at Elmwood’s next month.
Policies & IssuesApr 28, 2026
Tariff Refunds: How to File, What to Expect Importers can submit claims now to receive money back for the IEEPA tariffs they’ve paid, with refunds expected to take up to 90 days.
IndependentsApr 28, 2026
This North Carolina Jeweler Is Passing the TorchThe owners of Gregory Jewelers in Morganton, North Carolina, are heading into retirement.
SourcingApr 28, 2026
Doug Hucker Retires From ICAThe colored gemstone industry leader is heading into retirement after four years as the association’s CEO.
SourcingApr 28, 2026
NDC Hires Tapestry Exec to Head Global Marketing Susie Dewey joins the Natural Diamond Council as its new chief marketing officer.
AuctionsApr 27, 2026
12 Years Later, the ‘Ocean Dream’ Diamond Resurfaces at Christie’sThe largest known fancy vivid blue-green diamond could fetch more than $12 million at its second auction appearance.
