Collections

Couture 2022 Preview: 30+ Jewels to See at the Show

CollectionsJun 09, 2022

Couture 2022 Preview: 30+ Jewels to See at the Show

Meet new and returning brands showcasing their works in Las Vegas.

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Clockwise from top left: Earrings by Cadar, snake necklace by Zoe Chicco, bracelet by Emily P. Wheeler, earrings by Nadine Aysoy, and ring by Ascher Jewelry
Las Vegas—Las Vegas jewelry market week rebounded from pandemic disruptions last year in late summer, with smaller shows and lighter attendance. 
 
Now back to their regular late spring, post-Memorial Day timing, the events are looking to be more in line with a typical, non-pandemic year.
 
That means there’s a lot to see at Couture, and never enough time to fit in all the designers worth visiting. 
 
Consider this preview an amuse-bouche, whetting one’s appetite for all there is to see and helping buyers choose just what to order for their stores and clients. 

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From top: Robinson Pelham mini 18-karat yellow gold ring with 0.7 carats of diamonds ($7,900); medium 18-karat yellow gold ring with 2 carats of diamonds ($29,500); and small ring in 18-karat yellow gold with 1.45 carats of diamonds ($13,400)
 
British brand Robinson Pelham is introducing a new play on symbols in Vegas this year. Called “Love Is All Around,” the collection features subtle meaning via different diamond shapes.
 
In the above stack, the marquise-shaped diamond represents “I,” the heart-shaped diamond “Love,” and the fancy-cut half-of-a-lozenge-like stone “You.” 
 
In addition to the “I Love You” motif, look for Robinson Pelham’s diamond interpretation of “Eye Die For You” and “Love at First Sight” at the show.

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Sorellina “Empress Earrings” in 18-karat gold with opal and diamonds ($4,100)
 
Sorellina will debut a new card in their successful tarot range at Couture. The “Empress,” representing creation, will have its own elaborate tarot card pendant, plus an entire collection devoted to its theme.
 
Symbols associated with the card, like stars, swans, and shields, will adorn rings, bracelets, earrings, and necklaces.

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Yannis Sergakis “Maxi Petale Pendant” in 18-karat yellow gold with black rhodium and 0.5 carats of diamonds ($5,200)
 
Delicate as caviar, Yannis Sergakis’ dainty, asymmetric diamond clusters are enchanting as pendants, adorning bangles, or when elevating summertime cotton bracelets. 
 
If bold statement jewels are made for showing off poolside in St. Barths, then Sergakis’ second-skin jewelry is more aligned with going for a swim in laidback Hydra or another one of the islands in the designer’s native Greece. 

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Vram “Cyfr” ring in 18-karat yellow gold and sterling silver with 1.7.1 carats of round brilliant-cut colored diamonds and black rhodium (price upon request)
 
One never knows what treasures await on a visit with Vram. Having graduated from the Design Atelier to a ballroom booth this year, there will be plenty of room to play with the designer’s elaborate collection inspired by ancient civilizations. 
 
Prepare for sumptuous organic shapes and exquisite tonal gemstone color palettes, plus plenty of one-of-a-kind pieces.

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Lito reversible pendant (showing both sides) in 14-karat yellow gold with emeralds, yellow diamonds, white diamonds, and enamel ($7,660)
 
Lito Karakostanoglou of Lito Jewelry will make her return to Couture this year with new iterations of some of her greatest hits in tow.
 
Expect bezel-set, rose-cut diamonds in ornate patterns from the “Hive” collection, plenty of scarabs, and new takes on the brand’s often-imitated but never duplicated evil eye, called “Tu Es Partout,” or “You Are Everywhere.” The newest versions are these reversible pendants. 

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Bea Bongiasca “B Floral” earrings in 9-karat gold with enamel ($1,280)

Bea Bongiasca has probably been blowing up your social media feed as the world’s tastemakers and influencers sport her vivacious enamel vine rings, chokers, and earrings. 
 
There are more colors than ever in the new “B-Color” collection that will be shown at Couture, including segmented swaths of different shades in a single piece. Look for the designer’s whimsical take on a cross, a continuation from her “Pop Art” chokers.

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Milamore “Kintsugi Float Pave Bangle” in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds ($15,400)
 
The Japanese concept “kintsugi” emphasizes the beauty in the imperfect, highlighting cracks in pottery with gold detailing.
 
Milamore, a brand based between Japan and New York, counts kintsugi as one of its core muses. 
 
Emphasizing “cracks” rather than the whole, the company has a compelling that is not just visually interesting, but aesthetically so. 
 
See the brand’s take on being perfectly imperfect in the Design Atelier.

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Ondyn 14-karat yellow gold “Big Bang” earrings with 6.26 carats of diamonds ($26,000)
 
Ondyn was one of the stars of Couture 2021, making its debut in the first show back since the pandemic began, and garnering a Couture Design Award in the process in the “Best in Diamonds Under $20,000” category.
 
Helmed by Tara Famiglietti, Ondyn made waves for its articulated bezel-set diamond designs. New this year are the delightfully chaotic “Big Bang” earrings.

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Rosa Van Parys “Snow White 4.0 Mini Me” Akoya pearl pendant and necklace in 18-karat gold with tsavorites, rubies, pink and blue sapphires, and white and brown diamonds ($20,800)
 
It may come as a surprise that brand Rosa Van Parys is less than 5 years old given its distinctive point-of-view, but its namesake designer is new to the jewelry scene, not the world of design.
 
Van Parys is head of her own architecture and interior design firm, Van Parys Architecture & Design. 
 
On the jewelry front, the designer has developed a signature pearl and gemstone Y-necklace boasting lots of colors and culminating in a dagger-like pendant. The edgy styles nix the need for layering with their maximalist aesthetic. 
 
At Couture, Van Parys is launching the “Mini Me” collection, a more delicate take on the look.

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Ascher 18-karat gold ring with white diamonds and grey spinel (price upon request)
 
Not all that glitters is (yellow) gold. Geometric shapes and a dark, moody color palette inform the aesthetic of Ascher Jewelry, a new brand out of the Middle East.
 
Spot the company’s edgy and ultra-sophisticated 11-piece “Luminescence” collection at Couture. It’s already caught the eye of retailers like Aubade and Moda Operandi.

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Alice Cicolini “Sari Mankani” hoop earrings in 14-karat yellow gold with lacquer enamel ($3,525 for the pair)
 
After a Couture hiatus, lauded British designer Alice Cicolini makes her Design Atelier debut in 2022, having previously exhibited as part of Stephen Webster’s Rock Vault. 
 
Inspired by the craftsmanship of the ancient Silk Route, Cicolini produces her collections in India by artisans trained in traditional Persian technique, as well as in London. 
 
For her Couture debut Cicolini will show “Sari,” a collection inspired by the versatile and ubiquitous item of classic Indian dress.

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Nikos Koulis “Together” bracelet in 18-karat gold with diamonds and opals ($39,360)
 
Nikos Koulis is a must-see destination on the annual Couture tour. Like many of his peers, the Greek designer has been inspired by the pandemic’s tumultuous beginning.
 
His artistic response is the “Together” collection, a celebration of life and relationships. Just ahead of Couture, the designer has even unveiled an accompanying short film to express his vision. It’s available to watch on his website. 

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Sylva & Cie ring with 3.1-carat moval (marquise and oval-cut) diamond and 1.15 carats of round brilliant diamonds set in oxidized 18-karat yellow gold ($86,375)
 
On the hunt for unique and vintage gems, luxurious cobble stone-like pavé diamonds, and one-of-a-kind pieces that no one else will have? Book an appointment with Sylva & Cie. 
 
Designer Sylva Yepremian dips into her treasure trove of antiques for inspiration when crafting her elaborate-yet-restrained pieces. 
 
Lest you think you’ve seen it all, at each Couture there’s always a jewel that’s more detailed than the last.

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AnaKatarina “Pierce Your Heart” stud earrings in 18-karat gold with inverted diamonds and pink sapphires ($2,780)
 
AnaKatarina is modifying some of its go-to design elements—the abstracted “sea urchin” gold motif and inverted stones—to make classic concepts feel fresh.
 
Case in point are these heart-shaped stud earrings that are so much more interesting than your typical take on hearts. 

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Yeprem 18-karat yellow gold earrings with white diamonds ($13,600)
 
Yeprem speaks a language all its own. Its particular brand of innovative and elaborate glamour will be translated into yellow gold more than ever before at this Couture. 
 
While each piece the Lebanese brand creates has a story all its own, expect more of the on-trend yellow metal in the works presented at this year’s show, as well as an emphasis on curving, feminine lines.

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Jacquie Aiche 18-karat gold multi-gemstone beaded necklace with opal center and diamonds ($8,000)
 
There are a lot of things Jacquie Aiche does right: body jewelry, delicate diamonds that move and shimmer, and luxurious but never fussy crystals and gemstones set in gold. 
 
Add the brand’s gemstone beads to the list of styles the brand has mastered. Debuted in recent seasons, the chunky gemstones provide just the right amount of contrast to the signature Jacquie Aiche layered look, and match jewelry’s current colorful mood.

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Lizzie Mandler 18-karat gold bracelet with 0.9 carats of white diamonds ($6,525)

Lizzie Mandler is, arguably, in the pursuit of perfection. The designer’s clients are the ones to reap the benefits of this quest, as the designer refines knife-edge rings and hoop earrings, and chain link necklaces and bracelets, all accented with white and black diamonds, plus the occasional gemstone.
 
If searching for luxurious gold staples, be sure to stop by the designer’s booth in the Design Atelier.

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Nadine Aysoy 18-karat gold earrings with sapphire, garnet, and enamel (price upon request)
 
Nadine Aysoy will bring her chunky chain motif rings, earrings, and necklaces to Couture, in myriad colored gemstone combinations. 
 
The London-based designer is amplifying her for love for bright color with some newly launched enamel as well, outlining juicy gems with matching enamel halos for a chic monochrome effect.  
 
For those loving the two-stone ring trend don’t leave the Design Atelier without seeing Aysoy, who has lots of them in store.

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Emily P. Wheeler “Patchwork” bracelet in 18-karat gold with morganite, peridot, red tourmaline, amethyst, aquamarine, pink tourmaline, howlite, pink opal, sugilite, turquoise, tiger’s eye, and agate (price upon request)
 
If you haven’t experienced Emily P. Wheeler’s love affair with color in person, be sure to take the opportunity at Couture. 
 
The designer excels at mixing gemstones in atypical color palettes with a unique synergy all her own. As can be seen with this bracelet, she’s pushing the envelope even further with her newest one-of-a-kind pieces.

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Lalaounis articulated earrings in 18-karat gold with diamonds ($12,640)
 
Lalaounis knows how to make a party earring. Large, shoulder-skimming styles are the only statement-making accessory one needs for a bold evening look. 
 
The family-run, second-generation company makes timeless designs that bring to mind 1970s glamour or ‘80s power dressing, but with a modern refinement.

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Alina Abegg “Pfefferminz Earrings” with chalcedony and amethyst in 14-karat yellow gold ($3,615)
 
Aliens and candy are fodder for German jewelry designer Alina Abegg’s luxurious ode to childhood nostalgia. 
 
On view at the Muse booth, Abegg will present her most refined versions yet. Carved gemstone “sweets” are rendered in sophisticated all-gold versions that make the collection feel just a little bit more grown-up.

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Zoe Chicco 14-karat gold “Kingdom Kollection” tennis snake necklace with 3.05 carats of diamonds ($10,500)
 
Zoe Chicco boasts an incredible catalog of diamond basics to wear daily yet manages to add to it season after season. 
 
The L.A.-based company latest additions are animal motifs. A lion and a snake add interest to classic gold chain bracelets, Y-necklaces, and diamond tennis styles.  
 
While the designer continues to experiment with mixed fancy-cut diamonds, also expect to see jewels with a mix of colored gemstones this year.

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ARK “Dreamweaver” hoop earrings in 18-karat recycled yellow gold with 3.54 carats of multicolor sapphires and enamel ($8,500)
 
Designer Ann Korman is having an awakening with her latest collection. 
 
“Awakenings” expands upon ARK’s plique-à-jour enamel collection shown at the last Couture show, now providing even more intricate and elevated takes on the concept. 
 
Korman also plays with geometry, introducing stacks of zig-zag rings that nestle together.

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Lydia Courteille “Mogao” necklace in 18-karat gold necklace with jasper, emeralds, green garnets, spinels, and rubies (price upon request)
 
Lydia Courteille’s fantastical world is a must-visit stop at any Couture show. 
 
Elaborate, one-of-a-kind jewels inspired by cultures around the world remind one of the possibilities in the fine jewelry medium.
 
This jewelry tribute to China is one highlight that will be on view in Vegas.

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Melissa Kaye diamond and 18-karat gold “Maya” bracelet (price available upon request)
 
You might know her for her trend-setting enamel but Melissa Kaye is equally as compelling in diamonds and gold. 
 
The latest in her oeuvre of classic staples that can be dressed up or down are the “Mya” styles featuring a center diamond flanked by two smaller diamonds set at a diagonal. 

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Assael “Duvall” earrings in 18-karat yellow gold with 6.63 carats of Brazilian imperial Topaz, South Sea golden pearls, and dendritic agate hoops (price upon request)

Assael proves that when you think you’ve seen every kind of pearl design, there is always more innovation to behold.
 
The brand’s “Modernist” collection in particular lends the gemstone an entirely new mood, with its mobile-like earrings reminiscent of the 20th-century fine art movement. 

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Renna “Dream Shell Necklace” in 18-karat gold with rock crystal, citrine, mandarin garnet, rose quartz, mother-of-pearl, and diamond ($7,400)
 
Gems carved in the shape of shells and starfish feel totally on brand for sea-inspired Renna. 
 
Showing for the second year in the Design Atelier, don’t miss the emerging brand’s sophisticated interpretation of nautical elements, from tiny gold piercing studs resembling coffee bean shells, and more elaborate lockets and pendants.

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Cadar 18-karat yellow gold hoops ($6,900)
 
Cadar isn’t a brand that does anything halfway. It will show not one, not two, but three new collections at Couture. 
 
This sneak peek shows the sophisticated New York City-based brand’s take on tribal-esque spirals.
 
So much more interesting than an average hoop earring (just as with the brand’s heart-shaped hoops), the above style is at once editorial and wearable, at least for the more fashion-forward tastemakers. 

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Anna Maccieri Rossi “Night & Day Colore Necklace” in 18-karat yellow gold with Arizona turquoise, mother-of-pearl, and sugilite ($36,000)
 
Anna Maccieri Rossi will unveil two new collections in Vegas, both exemplifying her unique interpretation of the art of watchmaking. 
 
Some pieces feature colorful components reminiscent of watch dials and using materials such as mother-of-pearl, pink jade, turquoise, and aventurine to name a few.
 
Other pieces feature watch movements, like a series of wearable pendants.

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Ananya “Chakra” ear studs in 18-karat gold with diamonds, freshwater pearls, and crystal quartz ($6,100)
 
Ananya’s “Chakra” collection has been turned every which way to morph from the signature bracelet into chokers, collars, studs and statement earrings galore.
 
The brand impresses even seasoned gem-aholics with its array of varieties, from angelite to zoisite with plenty in between.

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Pamela Love “Comet Cuff” in 18-karat yellow gold with pink opal, white opal, and white diamonds ($7,500)
 
In the costume space, Pamela Love has been one of jewelry’s biggest trend-setters in the last 15 years, with her earthy and spiritual designs.
 
Recently, the designer has elevated signature concepts into fine jewelry. Lapis lazuli, opal, and rose quartz are that much more compelling in 14-karat gold. 
 
Be sure to check out the designer’s range of piercing studs.

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Gemella “Dancing Queen” bracelets in 18-karat gold with sapphires, diamonds, and rubies (starting at $24,000 each)
 
Gemella is making its Couture debut this year with exuberant jewels meant for everyday wear that are anything but basic.
 
Third-generation jewelers and sister duo Anna and Rachel have perfect diamond pendants, gem- and diamond-accented signet rings, and modern bombe rings galore. 
 
They also create more intricate works like these gemstone “Dancing Queen” bracelets. 
 
 Related stories will be right here … 

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