ColumnistsNov 08, 2022
The Smart Lab: Last-Minute Tips to Boost Black Friday Jewelry SalesColumnistsNov 15, 2022
Creative Connecting: Managing Customers’ Expectations During the Custom Design Process
A great custom design experience starts with listening to your customers, Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams say.
Duvall O’Steen, left, and Jen Cullen Williams are independent communications strategists and senior consultants for the Luxury Brand Group. They can be reached at DuvallOsteenNYC@gmail.com or Jen@JenCullenWilliams.com.
According to career launchpad Zippia.com, jewelry companies reported a 38 percent increase in custom jewelry sales between 2019 and 2020. And the trend shows no sign of slowing.
Large companies like Starbucks and Apple have made customization a key selling factor—have your coffee your way, your computer, your mobile phone, your apps, and your social media feed.
Today’s consumer literally has been trained to desire customization. Buyers want to share in the purchase process by customizing the products they buy to meet their needs, preferences or lifestyles, and jewelry is no exception.
As demand for custom jewelry continues to rise, communication with the customer will be critical for success.
We spoke with several jewelers who regularly do custom design work to discover their best tips for communicating with the customer throughout the process.
Design Consultation—Active Listening Is Key
Designer Dan Sokyrka of Diamond Concepts Fine Jewelry in Sonora, California, has been designing custom jewelry for his customers for 40 years and has completed thousands of jewelry designs.
For Dan, the custom design process starts with listening.
“To be able to communicate with people effectively, especially to understand someone’s thoughts and ideas about what they want in a design, takes listening to not only what the client says, but also listening to how they act and their body language as well,” he said.
He observes their style of dress, the jewelry they are wearing when they enter the store, and the car they drive; not in a judgmental way, just to understand their sense of style.
“But the key is asking questions and listening to their replies,” he said. “I find that when I stop trying to ‘sell’ something, and just talk with them about their likes and dislikes and their life a little, they relax and are not feeling pressure, and then, it’s easier for them to explain what they are thinking.”
Sokyrka tells his customers to be 100 percent honest, assuring them their dislike of something will not offend him.
For customers who have no idea what they want, Sokyrka gives them homework.
“I tell them to make it fun … Go home and get on your computer on the Google Images tab with a glass of wine and type in keywords, like vintage-style ring, three-stone engraved ring, modern ruby ring, whatever you think might bring up your style.
“Do not look for a specific ring, just look for what makes you feel good, maybe just a curve on this ring or it might be a twist on that ring. Print out or save anything that grabs you about any ring. Your choices will start to have some common themes, and I’ll start to know exactly what you like.”
Large companies like Starbucks and Apple have made customization a key selling factor—have your coffee your way, your computer, your mobile phone, your apps, and your social media feed.
Today’s consumer literally has been trained to desire customization. Buyers want to share in the purchase process by customizing the products they buy to meet their needs, preferences or lifestyles, and jewelry is no exception.
As demand for custom jewelry continues to rise, communication with the customer will be critical for success.
We spoke with several jewelers who regularly do custom design work to discover their best tips for communicating with the customer throughout the process.
Design Consultation—Active Listening Is Key
Designer Dan Sokyrka of Diamond Concepts Fine Jewelry in Sonora, California, has been designing custom jewelry for his customers for 40 years and has completed thousands of jewelry designs.
For Dan, the custom design process starts with listening.
“To be able to communicate with people effectively, especially to understand someone’s thoughts and ideas about what they want in a design, takes listening to not only what the client says, but also listening to how they act and their body language as well,” he said.
He observes their style of dress, the jewelry they are wearing when they enter the store, and the car they drive; not in a judgmental way, just to understand their sense of style.
“But the key is asking questions and listening to their replies,” he said. “I find that when I stop trying to ‘sell’ something, and just talk with them about their likes and dislikes and their life a little, they relax and are not feeling pressure, and then, it’s easier for them to explain what they are thinking.”
Sokyrka tells his customers to be 100 percent honest, assuring them their dislike of something will not offend him.
For customers who have no idea what they want, Sokyrka gives them homework.
“I tell them to make it fun … Go home and get on your computer on the Google Images tab with a glass of wine and type in keywords, like vintage-style ring, three-stone engraved ring, modern ruby ring, whatever you think might bring up your style.
“Do not look for a specific ring, just look for what makes you feel good, maybe just a curve on this ring or it might be a twist on that ring. Print out or save anything that grabs you about any ring. Your choices will start to have some common themes, and I’ll start to know exactly what you like.”
Customer Engagement—Keep Them Informed
After the initial design consultation, it can be challenging to balance customer involvement. How much do you involve the customer in the process?
John Magzalcioglu, vice president of Diamond Club International, suggests keeping the customer informed at every point in the process to ensure their satisfaction.
“As we are making the jewelry, we communicate with our clients step by step, informing them when we finalize the design (getting their approval), when we are setting the diamonds, when we are polishing, when we are doing quality control, etc. And most importantly, we follow up once they receive the jewelry to see if they are happy with it or if they have any concerns.”
During an educational panel at Stuller’s October “Bridge” conference, custom design specialist Joseph Meadows of David Douglas Diamonds & Jewelry shared the importance of not overcomplicating the custom process by using too many industry terms that could confuse or overwhelm a customer.
Instead of saying “rendering,” use the term “drawing or sketch,” he suggested. And instead of saying “CAD,” describe it as, “a computer drawing of your design.”
He noted many jewelry and gemstones terms and acronyms are second nature to designers and jewelers but can intimidate customers.
Presenters in the session also advised clearly defining the difference between jewelry repairs and modifications to existing designs, as well as complete custom designs, since pricing and the timeline will vary depending on the scope of the work involved by the jeweler.
Hasmik (Jasmine) Kafafian of Michael M Jewelry reminded us of the importance of getting all the details at the start, including ring size or the desired length and width of a pendant.
This kind of specificity helps to ensure success and should be clarified before any carving and especially before precious metal casting. Kafafian works in wax molds and usually sends CAD designs for approval prior to making the wax mold.
Giving customers choices in the communication process can also create a more personalized approach to your service.
Chris Ploof, owner and designer at Chris Ploof Designs, said he chooses how much to inform the customer based upon their requests.
“Once we have an approved design, we typically don’t share the process unless the customer asks, and even then, I don’t always document the whole process, unless we have arranged for this with the customer ahead of time. Of course, with mobile phones taking excellent photos/videos these days, it has become much easier and faster. I let the customer lead and gauge their level of interest.”
Ploof said jewelers should always get a deposit and inform the customer upfront if changes require additional investment.
“I won’t even start designing without a deposit. I’ve seen countless jewelers get burned by customers walking away once a design has been shared and shopping it around for a lower price. I do share a CAD design and video, and I am happy to make minor adjustments, but if a customer wants major changes or can’t make up their mind, we do charge for revisions. We let the customer know this upfront.”
Ploof also suggests clarity about ownership of the design.
“Early on, I let a customer know that they own the idea to change or customize one of my designs, but they don’t own the design itself—we do. This prevents any misunderstandings.
“Also, we don’t give our customers our CAD files, we keep them. Many of the custom pieces we have done include hours of complicated CAD in them. I am not going to give that away so that another maker can quote a lower price, especially since all that design work is already done. Most of our pieces are geared toward our unique materials and styles anyway, and sometimes, those design files can be used again later as the basis for creating new or other designs.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
The Legal Stuff—Always Put It in Writing
Custom design can be a little intimidating to some designers, generating fears of failure, wasted effort, or issues with compensation.
Not only do you want the customer to be happy, but you also want to make sure that you and your staff are properly compensated for their time.
Sara Yood, deputy general counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), suggests jewelers (either designers or retailers who offer custom design work) always use a written contract when taking on custom work.
“A contract absolutely does not have to be complicated and does not require a lawyer to draft,” she noted. “At a minimum, you’ll want to discuss these issues listed below with your customer before proceeding, and ideally, put it in writing.”
Here are the items Yood suggests should be included in a custom design agreement:
• Names of the designer and the customer;
• Description of the agreed-on piece to be made;
• Agreed-on price and payment schedule (such as 50 percent non-refundable deposit, 50 percent due on receipt or whatever other payment terms the designer wants);
• Waiver for any customer stones/jewelry they are providing for the piece (i.e., a designer might take a stone out of a setting to reset and find out that it is broken, and the designer doesn’t want to be liable for that);
• Timeline expectations; and
• Description of how the parties will resolve any disputes arising under this contract (i.e., choice of state governing law or agreement to arbitrate, etc.).
Yood suggests “overcommunication”—specifying when design approval happens, ensuring that customers pay a deposit, and getting feedback every step of the way.
With a little planning and personalized communication, the custom design process can be a joy for everyone involved.
A healthy dose of common sense, combined with a touch of compassion, a sprinkle of clarity, and a pinch of patience, can all together create the perfect recipe for communication throughout the custom design process.
Elizabeth Gibson, CEO and founder of Austin, Texas, retail store Eliza Page and the designer of new personalized jewelry collection Scribe said: “I want our customers to love their customized jewelry.
“From the choice of gemstones to the symbolism and meaning behind the designs, personalized jewelry will be cherished today and passed down through the generations. How lucky are we to be part of their stories?!”
Custom design can be a little intimidating to some designers, generating fears of failure, wasted effort, or issues with compensation.
Not only do you want the customer to be happy, but you also want to make sure that you and your staff are properly compensated for their time.
Sara Yood, deputy general counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), suggests jewelers (either designers or retailers who offer custom design work) always use a written contract when taking on custom work.
“A contract absolutely does not have to be complicated and does not require a lawyer to draft,” she noted. “At a minimum, you’ll want to discuss these issues listed below with your customer before proceeding, and ideally, put it in writing.”
Here are the items Yood suggests should be included in a custom design agreement:
• Names of the designer and the customer;
• Description of the agreed-on piece to be made;
• Agreed-on price and payment schedule (such as 50 percent non-refundable deposit, 50 percent due on receipt or whatever other payment terms the designer wants);
• Waiver for any customer stones/jewelry they are providing for the piece (i.e., a designer might take a stone out of a setting to reset and find out that it is broken, and the designer doesn’t want to be liable for that);
• Timeline expectations; and
• Description of how the parties will resolve any disputes arising under this contract (i.e., choice of state governing law or agreement to arbitrate, etc.).
Yood suggests “overcommunication”—specifying when design approval happens, ensuring that customers pay a deposit, and getting feedback every step of the way.
With a little planning and personalized communication, the custom design process can be a joy for everyone involved.
A healthy dose of common sense, combined with a touch of compassion, a sprinkle of clarity, and a pinch of patience, can all together create the perfect recipe for communication throughout the custom design process.
Elizabeth Gibson, CEO and founder of Austin, Texas, retail store Eliza Page and the designer of new personalized jewelry collection Scribe said: “I want our customers to love their customized jewelry.
“From the choice of gemstones to the symbolism and meaning behind the designs, personalized jewelry will be cherished today and passed down through the generations. How lucky are we to be part of their stories?!”
More on Columnists
The Latest
SourcingAug 19, 2025
Dubai’s Jemora Group Buys Diamond Miner LucapaThe investment company, founded by Dev Shetty, has acquired the struggling miner and its assets, including the Lulo mine in Angola.
CrimeAug 19, 2025
Customs Seizes 7,300 Pairs of Fake ‘Alhambra’ EarringsThe counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels jewels would have been worth more than $30 million if genuine.
MajorsAug 19, 2025
MJSA Apprenticeship Program Is Nationally RecognizedThe MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program received the Registered Apprenticeship Program designation by the U.S. Department of Labor.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
WatchesAug 19, 2025
Casio America Names New Timepiece Division ManagerCasio executive and watch enthusiast Masaki Obu is the new general manager of its U.S. timepiece division.
Weekly QuizAug 15, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsAug 18, 2025
Verragio’s Michael Barabash, a ‘Kind Soul,’ Dies at 58Barabash, Verragio’s client relations representative, was a vital member of the team and is remembered as being warm and full of life.
CollectionsAug 18, 2025
John Hardy’s New ‘Dot’ Collection Is on PointOriginally introduced in 1992, the “Dot” collection is back with a capsule featuring five archival designs and three new creations.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
Events & AwardsAug 18, 2025
IJO Announces 2025 Vendor of the YearAllison-Kaufman has received the honor for the fourth year in a row.
FinancialsAug 15, 2025
In Q2 Results, Pandora Talks Tariffs, Q4 Plans The company had a solid second quarter, with sales of non-charm jewelry outpacing sales of pieces in its core collections.
EditorsAug 15, 2025
Piece of the Week: Etho Maria’s Showgirl-Approved Ruby Drop Earrings Taylor Swift dons the vibrant pair in new promotional imagery for her upcoming album, “The Life of a Showgirl,” set to release in October.
WatchesAug 15, 2025
Audemars Piguet Acquires Majority Stake in ManufacturerIts investment in micromechanics expert Inhotec will preserve skills essential to the watchmaking industry as a whole, said the company.
MajorsAug 15, 2025
Rio Grande Names New Marketing DirectorNicolette Bianchi joins the wholesale provider with more than 15 years of cross-industry experience in marketing and product development.
CollectionsAug 14, 2025
In Midst of ‘Sardine Girl Summer,’ Pippa Small Looks to ‘Flounder Fall’Her new “Ocean” collection was inspired by Myanmar’s traditional articulated fish jewelry, with depictions of flounder, catfish, and more.
MajorsAug 14, 2025
Casio America Names New CEOLongtime Casio executive Yusuke Suzuki is the new president and CEO of Casio’s U.S. subsidiary.
SourcingAug 14, 2025
West Coast Orgs to Host Trading Event, Mixer in LAThe full-day sourcing and networking event, slated for Aug. 18, will be followed by the fifth annual Mega Mixer Summer Soirée.
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Cristiano Ronaldo Proposes With Gigantic Oval-Cut DiamondModel Georgina Rodríguez received a rock of an engagement ring, with her diamond estimated to be 35 carats, experts say.
SourcingAug 13, 2025
ICA Names 2025 Board of DirectorsThe board elected 9 new directors at its recent ICA Congress in Brazil.
TrendsAug 13, 2025
Colorado Jeweler, Whiskey Maker Collab on Ring GiveawayThree winners will receive a custom ring from Honest Hands Ring Co. inlaid with a piece of history from Denver-based distillery Stranahan’s.
SurveysAug 13, 2025
These Are The 25 Hottest Retailers, Says NRFJD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.
SourcingAug 13, 2025
Columbia Gem House Launches Winza Sapphires, RubiesThe new inventory, all untreated, features vibrant hues and unique bicolor combinations.
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50MAcquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump SaysPresident Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the ThunderbirdThe “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.
CrimeAug 11, 2025
Man Convicted of First-Degree Murder in Death of Colorado JewelerPeter Damian Arguello, a jeweler in the Denver suburb of Wheat Ridge, was found dead inside his store in November 2023.
IndependentsAug 11, 2025
Lisa Bridge to Depart Ben Bridge JewelerThe retailer, owned by Berkshire Hathaway, is becoming part of the Berkshire Hathaway Jewelry Group with Helzberg.
Events & AwardsAug 11, 2025
Bethenny Frankel to Give Keynote at CBG’s Experience ShowThe Continental Buying Group’s 2025 Tampa Experience Show is slated for Sept. 8-10.
