ColumnistsNov 08, 2022
The Smart Lab: Last-Minute Tips to Boost Black Friday Jewelry SalesColumnistsNov 15, 2022
Creative Connecting: Managing Customers’ Expectations During the Custom Design Process
A great custom design experience starts with listening to your customers, Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams say.
Duvall O’Steen, left, and Jen Cullen Williams are independent communications strategists and senior consultants for the Luxury Brand Group. They can be reached at DuvallOsteenNYC@gmail.com or Jen@JenCullenWilliams.com.
According to career launchpad Zippia.com, jewelry companies reported a 38 percent increase in custom jewelry sales between 2019 and 2020. And the trend shows no sign of slowing.
Large companies like Starbucks and Apple have made customization a key selling factor—have your coffee your way, your computer, your mobile phone, your apps, and your social media feed.
Today’s consumer literally has been trained to desire customization. Buyers want to share in the purchase process by customizing the products they buy to meet their needs, preferences or lifestyles, and jewelry is no exception.
As demand for custom jewelry continues to rise, communication with the customer will be critical for success.
We spoke with several jewelers who regularly do custom design work to discover their best tips for communicating with the customer throughout the process.
Design Consultation—Active Listening Is Key
Designer Dan Sokyrka of Diamond Concepts Fine Jewelry in Sonora, California, has been designing custom jewelry for his customers for 40 years and has completed thousands of jewelry designs.
For Dan, the custom design process starts with listening.
“To be able to communicate with people effectively, especially to understand someone’s thoughts and ideas about what they want in a design, takes listening to not only what the client says, but also listening to how they act and their body language as well,” he said.
He observes their style of dress, the jewelry they are wearing when they enter the store, and the car they drive; not in a judgmental way, just to understand their sense of style.
“But the key is asking questions and listening to their replies,” he said. “I find that when I stop trying to ‘sell’ something, and just talk with them about their likes and dislikes and their life a little, they relax and are not feeling pressure, and then, it’s easier for them to explain what they are thinking.”
Sokyrka tells his customers to be 100 percent honest, assuring them their dislike of something will not offend him.
For customers who have no idea what they want, Sokyrka gives them homework.
“I tell them to make it fun … Go home and get on your computer on the Google Images tab with a glass of wine and type in keywords, like vintage-style ring, three-stone engraved ring, modern ruby ring, whatever you think might bring up your style.
“Do not look for a specific ring, just look for what makes you feel good, maybe just a curve on this ring or it might be a twist on that ring. Print out or save anything that grabs you about any ring. Your choices will start to have some common themes, and I’ll start to know exactly what you like.”
Large companies like Starbucks and Apple have made customization a key selling factor—have your coffee your way, your computer, your mobile phone, your apps, and your social media feed.
Today’s consumer literally has been trained to desire customization. Buyers want to share in the purchase process by customizing the products they buy to meet their needs, preferences or lifestyles, and jewelry is no exception.
As demand for custom jewelry continues to rise, communication with the customer will be critical for success.
We spoke with several jewelers who regularly do custom design work to discover their best tips for communicating with the customer throughout the process.
Design Consultation—Active Listening Is Key
Designer Dan Sokyrka of Diamond Concepts Fine Jewelry in Sonora, California, has been designing custom jewelry for his customers for 40 years and has completed thousands of jewelry designs.
For Dan, the custom design process starts with listening.
“To be able to communicate with people effectively, especially to understand someone’s thoughts and ideas about what they want in a design, takes listening to not only what the client says, but also listening to how they act and their body language as well,” he said.
He observes their style of dress, the jewelry they are wearing when they enter the store, and the car they drive; not in a judgmental way, just to understand their sense of style.
“But the key is asking questions and listening to their replies,” he said. “I find that when I stop trying to ‘sell’ something, and just talk with them about their likes and dislikes and their life a little, they relax and are not feeling pressure, and then, it’s easier for them to explain what they are thinking.”
Sokyrka tells his customers to be 100 percent honest, assuring them their dislike of something will not offend him.
For customers who have no idea what they want, Sokyrka gives them homework.
“I tell them to make it fun … Go home and get on your computer on the Google Images tab with a glass of wine and type in keywords, like vintage-style ring, three-stone engraved ring, modern ruby ring, whatever you think might bring up your style.
“Do not look for a specific ring, just look for what makes you feel good, maybe just a curve on this ring or it might be a twist on that ring. Print out or save anything that grabs you about any ring. Your choices will start to have some common themes, and I’ll start to know exactly what you like.”
Customer Engagement—Keep Them Informed
After the initial design consultation, it can be challenging to balance customer involvement. How much do you involve the customer in the process?
John Magzalcioglu, vice president of Diamond Club International, suggests keeping the customer informed at every point in the process to ensure their satisfaction.
“As we are making the jewelry, we communicate with our clients step by step, informing them when we finalize the design (getting their approval), when we are setting the diamonds, when we are polishing, when we are doing quality control, etc. And most importantly, we follow up once they receive the jewelry to see if they are happy with it or if they have any concerns.”
During an educational panel at Stuller’s October “Bridge” conference, custom design specialist Joseph Meadows of David Douglas Diamonds & Jewelry shared the importance of not overcomplicating the custom process by using too many industry terms that could confuse or overwhelm a customer.
Instead of saying “rendering,” use the term “drawing or sketch,” he suggested. And instead of saying “CAD,” describe it as, “a computer drawing of your design.”
He noted many jewelry and gemstones terms and acronyms are second nature to designers and jewelers but can intimidate customers.
Presenters in the session also advised clearly defining the difference between jewelry repairs and modifications to existing designs, as well as complete custom designs, since pricing and the timeline will vary depending on the scope of the work involved by the jeweler.
Hasmik (Jasmine) Kafafian of Michael M Jewelry reminded us of the importance of getting all the details at the start, including ring size or the desired length and width of a pendant.
This kind of specificity helps to ensure success and should be clarified before any carving and especially before precious metal casting. Kafafian works in wax molds and usually sends CAD designs for approval prior to making the wax mold.
Giving customers choices in the communication process can also create a more personalized approach to your service.
Chris Ploof, owner and designer at Chris Ploof Designs, said he chooses how much to inform the customer based upon their requests.
“Once we have an approved design, we typically don’t share the process unless the customer asks, and even then, I don’t always document the whole process, unless we have arranged for this with the customer ahead of time. Of course, with mobile phones taking excellent photos/videos these days, it has become much easier and faster. I let the customer lead and gauge their level of interest.”
Ploof said jewelers should always get a deposit and inform the customer upfront if changes require additional investment.
“I won’t even start designing without a deposit. I’ve seen countless jewelers get burned by customers walking away once a design has been shared and shopping it around for a lower price. I do share a CAD design and video, and I am happy to make minor adjustments, but if a customer wants major changes or can’t make up their mind, we do charge for revisions. We let the customer know this upfront.”
Ploof also suggests clarity about ownership of the design.
“Early on, I let a customer know that they own the idea to change or customize one of my designs, but they don’t own the design itself—we do. This prevents any misunderstandings.
“Also, we don’t give our customers our CAD files, we keep them. Many of the custom pieces we have done include hours of complicated CAD in them. I am not going to give that away so that another maker can quote a lower price, especially since all that design work is already done. Most of our pieces are geared toward our unique materials and styles anyway, and sometimes, those design files can be used again later as the basis for creating new or other designs.”
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
The Legal Stuff—Always Put It in Writing
Custom design can be a little intimidating to some designers, generating fears of failure, wasted effort, or issues with compensation.
Not only do you want the customer to be happy, but you also want to make sure that you and your staff are properly compensated for their time.
Sara Yood, deputy general counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), suggests jewelers (either designers or retailers who offer custom design work) always use a written contract when taking on custom work.
“A contract absolutely does not have to be complicated and does not require a lawyer to draft,” she noted. “At a minimum, you’ll want to discuss these issues listed below with your customer before proceeding, and ideally, put it in writing.”
Here are the items Yood suggests should be included in a custom design agreement:
• Names of the designer and the customer;
• Description of the agreed-on piece to be made;
• Agreed-on price and payment schedule (such as 50 percent non-refundable deposit, 50 percent due on receipt or whatever other payment terms the designer wants);
• Waiver for any customer stones/jewelry they are providing for the piece (i.e., a designer might take a stone out of a setting to reset and find out that it is broken, and the designer doesn’t want to be liable for that);
• Timeline expectations; and
• Description of how the parties will resolve any disputes arising under this contract (i.e., choice of state governing law or agreement to arbitrate, etc.).
Yood suggests “overcommunication”—specifying when design approval happens, ensuring that customers pay a deposit, and getting feedback every step of the way.
With a little planning and personalized communication, the custom design process can be a joy for everyone involved.
A healthy dose of common sense, combined with a touch of compassion, a sprinkle of clarity, and a pinch of patience, can all together create the perfect recipe for communication throughout the custom design process.
Elizabeth Gibson, CEO and founder of Austin, Texas, retail store Eliza Page and the designer of new personalized jewelry collection Scribe said: “I want our customers to love their customized jewelry.
“From the choice of gemstones to the symbolism and meaning behind the designs, personalized jewelry will be cherished today and passed down through the generations. How lucky are we to be part of their stories?!”
Custom design can be a little intimidating to some designers, generating fears of failure, wasted effort, or issues with compensation.
Not only do you want the customer to be happy, but you also want to make sure that you and your staff are properly compensated for their time.
Sara Yood, deputy general counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), suggests jewelers (either designers or retailers who offer custom design work) always use a written contract when taking on custom work.
“A contract absolutely does not have to be complicated and does not require a lawyer to draft,” she noted. “At a minimum, you’ll want to discuss these issues listed below with your customer before proceeding, and ideally, put it in writing.”
Here are the items Yood suggests should be included in a custom design agreement:
• Names of the designer and the customer;
• Description of the agreed-on piece to be made;
• Agreed-on price and payment schedule (such as 50 percent non-refundable deposit, 50 percent due on receipt or whatever other payment terms the designer wants);
• Waiver for any customer stones/jewelry they are providing for the piece (i.e., a designer might take a stone out of a setting to reset and find out that it is broken, and the designer doesn’t want to be liable for that);
• Timeline expectations; and
• Description of how the parties will resolve any disputes arising under this contract (i.e., choice of state governing law or agreement to arbitrate, etc.).
Yood suggests “overcommunication”—specifying when design approval happens, ensuring that customers pay a deposit, and getting feedback every step of the way.
With a little planning and personalized communication, the custom design process can be a joy for everyone involved.
A healthy dose of common sense, combined with a touch of compassion, a sprinkle of clarity, and a pinch of patience, can all together create the perfect recipe for communication throughout the custom design process.
Elizabeth Gibson, CEO and founder of Austin, Texas, retail store Eliza Page and the designer of new personalized jewelry collection Scribe said: “I want our customers to love their customized jewelry.
“From the choice of gemstones to the symbolism and meaning behind the designs, personalized jewelry will be cherished today and passed down through the generations. How lucky are we to be part of their stories?!”
More on Columnists
The Latest
MajorsJun 16, 2026
5 Things to Know About the 2026 NBA Championship TrophyThe New York Knicks took home the Larry O'Brien Trophy crafted by Tiffany & Co.
TrendsJun 16, 2026
Post-Vegas Jewelry Trend Report: Big Beads, Western Flair, White MetalsAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco lists the trends she spotted during Jewelry Market Week that will dominate the second half of 2026.
SourcingJun 16, 2026
GemGuide Updates Ruby PricesIts app now reflects increased prices for Mozambique ruby, as well as changes to its Burma ruby charts.
Brought to you by
Building the Future of Jewelry Retail: DCA Expands Education, Leadership Development, and Workforce SolutionsDCA is preparing the next generation of professionals by supporting workforce development, leadership growth, and career advancement.
MajorsJun 16, 2026
Sasha Primak Hires New Design DirectorThe manufacturer has tapped Alicia Arnold, the former director of custom design at Tiny Jewel Box.
Weekly QuizJun 11, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
IndependentsJun 15, 2026
DeBoulle Diamond & Jewelry to Renovate Dallas FlagshipThe revamped, elevated space will feature a two-story Patek Philippe atelier and a rooftop patio for parties.
WatchesJun 15, 2026
G-Shock, Coca-Cola Partner on Bottle-Inspired WatchThe special-edition piece marks the 140th anniversary of the iconic beverage brand.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
TrendsJun 15, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Tiny Charms Are TrendingHere are 13 small charms to inspire your layered looks this summer.
AuctionsJun 12, 2026
16th-Century ‘Hogback’ Diamond Ring Going Up for Auction in LondonFound by a metal detectorist, the ring likely belonged to a wealthy, possibly royal, owner, said Noonans.
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of LoveOur Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix ShowThe group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.
EditorsJun 11, 2026
This Was the Best Animal Jewelry in Las Vegas From lions and hippos to snails and fish, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow wrangles her picks for cutest jewelry critters in Las Vegas.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat RoughThe big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation StudioMarie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good BoardIlana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.
AuctionsJun 10, 2026
31.62-Carat ‘Azure Blue’ Diamond Sells For $8M+ at Christie’sIt was a banner day for blue gemstones, with another blue diamond topping $8 million and a 41-carat sapphire going for $2.3 million.
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for ReorganizationThe approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyThe men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s RingThe bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.
EditorsJun 09, 2026
Q&A: Al Cook on the Lab-Grown ‘Bubble,’ Dwindling Diamond Supply The De Beers Group CEO also discussed tariffs, Desert Diamonds, and the pending sale of De Beers in an interview with Michelle Graff.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse RetiresThe industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry VoicesThe panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, LiterallyInspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for SoutheastThe company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine JewelryThe jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.
