The passionate gem lover helped bring more than 300 different varieties of stones to the gem trade.
Gübelin Gem Lab Debuts ‘Emerald Paternity Test’
The new technology introduced at Baselworld can trace an emerald to the mine of its origin.

Introduced at Baselworld 2017, Gübelin’s “Emerald Paternity Test” involves applying DNA-based nanoparticles directly onto rough emerald crystals at mining sites.
Nanotechnology deals with particles less than 100 nanometers large. The particles aren't visible to the naked eye or even under an optical microscope, so a stone’s properties and grading won’t be affected by the application.
Gübelin’s application process is designed to withstand all steps of an emerald’s journey, from cutting to cleaning, polishing, transporting and setting, so that the nanoparticles will act as a permanent origin tag.
Just like a human's DNA is specific to each individual, the tag will be unique to each mine.

“This technology offers all stakeholders along the entire supply chain, from the miner to the final customers, proof of the exact source of emeralds, instilling confidence and creating trust,” said Daniel Nyfeler, managing director of Gübelin Gem Lab. “It enables a new level of transparency for the gemstone trade.”
Gübelin worked with Gemfields, majority owner of the world’s largest emerald mine, the Kagem Mine in Zambia, to test the new technology.
“Partnering with Gemfields for the feasibility study was an obvious choice,” Nyfeler said, “as it is not only an industry leader, but a forward-thinking company, and hence a perfect partner to test a ground-breaking idea such as this paternity test for emeralds.”
The results were a success and Gemfields told National Jeweler it would "continue to tag emerald production coming through the auction system."
Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle explained, “Embracing innovation, technology and increased transparency is at the heart of our approach. We were therefore thrilled to assist Gübelin in the testing of this new technology, and we are very excited about the outcome as it offers a multitude of benefits to the industry and the consumer.”
For now, the paternity test will only work for emeralds, as the DNA-based nanoparticles are able to adhere to the fissures unique to the gemstone, and remain there through all processing.
Gübelin, which analyzes diamonds, color gemstones and pearls at its laboratories in Lucerne, Switzerland, Hong Kong and New York, said that the nanotechnology could offer transparency across the industry, to large and small mining companies, governments, trade organizations, industry watchdogs, jewelry brands and customers.
Gübelin is "looking to develop relationships with all stakeholders in the supply chain," they said to National Jeweler.
The Latest

The brand has attracted attention for its colorful, vintage-inspired pieces.

Marcelo Tau is the company’s new chief operations officer.

Rio Grande provides a pathway to responsibly sourced gemstones.

The jewelry designer founded her eponymous brand in 2015 after nearly two decades in the diamond industry.


Sponsored by HiBid

The watch seller comments on future demand, how the crypto crash impacted Rolex and Patek Philippe pricing, the supply recovery, and more.

From laboratory-grown diamonds to design to country-of-origin, GIA's Alumni Collective™ has a seminar to suite your needs.

It features fives sets of jewelry.

Through the collaboration, HRA will exclusively cut, polish, and distribute Plasmability’s lab-grown diamonds in the market.

They include a tour of a museum’s gem collection and demonstrations of diamond cutting and polishing.

The limited-edition pendants, available in digital and physical form, retail for $50,000 and are exclusive to holders of CryptoPunks NFTs.

The sale includes pieces “The King” gifted to his longtime manager, as well as jewelry Elvis owned and wore on stage.

Trevor Lawrence is the quarterback for the Jacksonville Jaguars.

It gives trade members full access to its catalog of products so they can sell listings on their own online platforms.

Julie Collins succeeds Kathy Corey in the role.

Retailers would be wise to embrace this growing segment of the market instead of shunning it, Peter Smith writes.

He’s the owner of The Lightning Ridge Collection but will pivot to focus on his new role.

East Continental Gems provided more than 150 carats of gemstones for the project.

Rising prices and interest rate hikes are expected to weigh on consumer spending and economic growth over the next six months.

To kick off August, Amanda Gizzi is sharing jewelry featuring the month’s OG birthstone.

The Michigan auctioneer and appraiser also has to pay restitution totaling $25 million for other victims of his fraud scheme.

Johanna Levy will oversee the environmental, social, and governance programs.

Before his sudden death last week, the designer had reached new creative heights.

Despite unusually high summertime sales, the company’s CEO said the industry remains “watchful.”

Joseph Corey, Krystle Craycraft, Sue Hopeman, and Sherry Smith will each serve three-year terms on the board.

A lab-grown ruby makes the perfect nostalgic treat.