Price Upon Request: Paris High Jewelry, Part I

TrendsJul 12, 2017

Price Upon Request: Paris High Jewelry, Part I

In the first of a two-part series, National Jeweler explores the new haute joaillerie collections from several storied maisons.

Buccellati’s white gold and diamond tiara is composed of one 4.22-carat diamond drop and 357 round brilliant diamonds totaling 15.93 carats. The drop pendant may be removed. The Italian brand presented this and other designs in Paris last week as part of haute joaillerie week.

Paris--In the first of a two-part series, National Jeweler explores several storied jewelry maisons’ flirtations with the very heights of jewelry design in their high jewelry collections, presented last week alongside the haute couture showings in Paris.

Opera was the theme that united Chaumet’s four distinct groupings of high jewelry.

The Pastorale Anglaise group, for example, was an ode to the Glyndebourne opera festival held annually in England. The jewelry highlighted spectacular emeralds surrounded by a riot of color gemstones arranged to mimic the pattern of a Scottish tartan.

The Aria Passionata pieces, meanwhile, were a tribute to the emotion of Milanese opera with their mix of red gemstones like rubies and rhodolites, and the Rhapsodie Transatlantique collection interpreted New York opera as a romantic and sophisticated affair in cool-tone white gold accented with vivid pops of color.

De Beers debuted its Lotus collection, of which a rough macle diamond-- a flat, triangular twinned-crystal diamond--was the star, juxtaposed with the diamond company’s more traditional, polished stones on a long necklace.

The water flower gave De Beers plenty of inspiration, whether translated into a cornucopia of white diamonds arranged like “petals” open to the sunlight in brooch form, or as a mix of rough, natural color diamonds set against their cut, white diamond counterparts in styles meant to represent the flower as seen in a mix of shadow and light at various times of the day.

Buccellati’s signature “rigato” engraving and intricate openwork designs were elevated with the incorporation of exquisite gemstones and ornate configurations of diamonds in the Italian house’s haute joaillerie offerings.

Not to be missed was the diamond tiara that featured a removable drop pendant meant to rest on the wearer’s forehead.

Cindy Chao showed pieces representing themes central to her career, flora and fauna, displaying her particular affinity for dragonflies, but also making a departure with the No. X Red Diamond Ribbon Ring, new for 2017.

The ring featured an exquisite 1.51-carat cut-cornered square fancy purplish-red diamond set in 18-karat white gold with an array of white diamonds, all set in 18-karat white gold.

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

IndependentsMay 17, 2021
Take a Peek Inside the New Zadok Jewelers Store

The Houston jeweler recently opened a 28,000-square-foot, two-level store.

IndependentsMay 17, 2021
Bill Boyajian Has a New Book Coming Out

“Family Business Succession Planning” covers the dynamics of working in a multigenerational business and prepping for the next generation.

MajorsMay 17, 2021
Pandora’s Head of North America Steps Down

Sid Keswani has left the jewelry company to become president of lifestyle company Centric Brands.

Brought to you by
How to Engage and Sell to Millennials

Millennials were once feared in the diamond industry, but now this younger generation has become today’s largest diamond buying demographic.

TechnologyMay 17, 2021
JCK Launches Online B2B Jewelry Marketplace

“Jewelers Source by JCK” will help qualified buyers find new clients and conduct virtual meetings all year round.

Weekly QuizMay 14, 2021
This Week's Quiz
Test your knowledge of jewelry news from the week of May 10-14, 2021.
Take the Quiz
MajorsMay 17, 2021
Borsheims Promotes 3 on Sales Management Team

It shows the Nebraska jeweler’s new cross-department emphasis.

Policies & IssuesMay 14, 2021
Petra Reaches $6M Settlement Amid Claims of Human Rights Abuses

A report by a nonprofit documented an alleged seven deaths and 41 assaults on artisanal miners at the Williamson mine in Tanzania.

Brought to you by
A New Golden Age

Gold has had its share of ups and downs over the last 5 decades. Here’s why the metal is having another big comeback.

AuctionsMay 14, 2021
Phillips’ New Selling Exhibition Celebrates Female Designers

It features pieces from the likes of Solange Azagury-Partridge, Suzanne Belperron, Marina B, and Silvia Furmanovich.