Auctions

One Collector’s Hemmerle Trove Is Up for Auction

AuctionsNov 25, 2019

One Collector’s Hemmerle Trove Is Up for Auction

The largest single-owner collection of Hemmerle jewels headlines Sotheby’s London jewelry auction.

20191125_Hemmerle-header.jpg
Hemmerle’s antique jasper cameo pendant surrounded by emeralds and tsavorite garnets on a blackened silver chain is one of 12 pieces from a private collection to be offered at Sotheby’s London jewelry auction.

London—The ultimate holiday gift array for jewelry lovers is up for grabs this week, in the form of the largest single-owner Hemmerle collection ever offered at auction.

Hitting the block Tuesday at Sotheby’s jewelry auction in London, the collection features 12 one-of-a-kind jewels from the German jeweler, all amassed in the early 2000s by a European woman, the auction house said in a statement.

The fourth-generation-run jewelry house has garnered a cult fan base over its 120-plus years in business, with recent decades cementing its status as a boundary-pushing iconoclast, incorporating unusual jewelry-making materials like iron, antique artifacts and even acorns from New York’s Central Park into its roughly 200 piece-a-year repertoire.

In an interview with Sotheby’s, Christian Hemmerle said: “My dad never looked at materials by value. He just looked at beauty.

“He taught us to walk around with an open mind and get inspired. Obviously diamonds and rubies are more precious than tourmalines, but tourmalines can be just as beautiful.”

Even the most seemingly uncomplicated Hemmerle jewel tends to have an amazing backstory.

A multi-strand Sleeping Beauty turquoise necklace, for example, recently shown at TEFAF New York Fall, was the result of decades of collecting the gemstone from the now-closed Arizona mine.

Hemmerle was founded in 1893 in Munich by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle.

No matter how innovative the materials or jewelry crafting techniques, the company hasn’t deviated from its utmost attention to quality and precision since its founding.


Four Hemmerle pieces on offer at Sotheby’s London Fine Jewels sale feature antique cameos, like the earring pictured here.

Every piece is crafted from start to finish in the company’s workshop.

Most pieces are touched by only two jewelers during the entire process, one for stone setting and another for everything else, down to achieving specific colorful shades of titanium.

Hemmerle’s retail practices also have barely changed in over a century; the sole Hemmerle store has occupied the same space in Munich since 1904.

The limited availability of Hemmerle jewels, which have enjoyed renewed enthusiasm from art- and jewelry-obsessed Americans since participating in the New York edition of TEFAF, is what makes the Sotheby’s collection so significant, the auction house said.

“Hemmerle jewels are a rare sight at auction and so it is a joy to be able to offer this unique single-owner collection,” Sotheby’s London Jewellery Department Head Kristian Spofforth said in a statement.

“We often see
clients collecting across the categories in our sales. The avant-garde designs of these jewels are sure to transcend the field of jewelry and appeal to seasoned collectors of fine art and contemporary design.”

Highlights of the sale include a pair of pineapple-shaped earrings featuring large gray and orange-brown colored old-mine-cut diamonds and 19th-century cameos.

One is agate depicting a Moorish woman, and the other is onyx depicting Maecenas, patron to poets Horace and Virgil.

Each cameo is surrounded by a diamond halo. They’re expected to sell for $24,600 to $36,900.

Estimated to go for between $18,500 and $24,600, a necklace with blackened silver chain and tsavorite garnets features as a pendant an early 19th century jasper cameo depicting Neptune, surrounded by emeralds and tsavorites.

Additional highlights include a pair of diamond brooches shaped as laurel branches that can also be worn as hair clips ($24,600 to $36,900) and a pair of spinel and pink sapphire earrings ($12,300-$18,500).

Ashley Davisis the senior editor, fashion at National Jeweler, covering all things related to design, style and trends.

The Latest

Future Fortune sapphire ring
TechnologyMar 28, 2024
Pinterest’s 2024 Wedding Report Is Out

The report shows that couples are searching for vintage and antique rings, gold jewelry, pearls, and colorful pieces.

David Ettinger
IndependentsMar 28, 2024
David Ettinger of Bechdel Jewelers Dies at 69

He’s remembered as a “font of passion,” leaving behind a legacy of dedication to his craft and community.

Jewelers of America logo
IndependentsMar 28, 2024
JA to Host Series of Learning Workshops

The first one will take place next month during the Jewelers of Louisiana’s and Mississippi Jewelers Association’s conventions.

Jewelers of America Fly In Washington, D.C.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers of America Represents Your Business

For over 30 years, JA has advocated for the industry, fought against harmful legislation and backed measures that help jewelry businesses.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Madison Avenue NYC store
WatchesMar 28, 2024
Peek Inside Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Revamped NYC Flagship

The redesigned boutique features interactive displays and a workshop space for hands-on learning about watchmaking.

Weekly QuizMar 21, 2024
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge with this short test.
Take the Quiz
Asian Star’s diamond manufacturing facility in India
SourcingMar 27, 2024
Compliance, Caution, and Concern: The Current Outlook of Indian Diamantaires

There is a willingness to comply with new government-mandated regulations, with an insistence that they should be practical and realistic.

Kira Diam solar plant
Lab-GrownMar 27, 2024
Indian Lab-Grown Diamond Manufacturers Keep Growing

A combination of factors is driving growth in the industry despite the precipitous drop in prices across the board.

BTYB-HoBrothers-updated.png
Brought to you by
The Scalable, Professional, and Effortless Solution for High-Demand Custom Jewelry Retailers

Ho Brothers offers scalable solutions for the future of custom jewelry.

Bharat Ratnam, a Mega Common Facilitation Centre (CFC)
SourcingMar 27, 2024
Reinvigorating SEEPZ, the Epicenter of India’s Studded Jewelry Exports

The zone’s modernization will enhance and increase India’s jewelry manufacturing capabilities while aiding small and mid-sized businesses.

SRK Empire and SRK House
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
SRK Exports’ Journey Toward Net Zero Impact

By the end of this year, SRK’s diamond manufacturing complexes will achieve net zero emissions, one of an impressive array of achievements.

Georgia May Jagger Tommy Hilfiger ad campaign
FinancialsMar 27, 2024
Movado’s Full-Year Sales Sink 11%

The company plans to invest $25 million in marketing initiatives to boost awareness around its namesake and licensed brands.

Hand holding shopping bags
SurveysMar 27, 2024
Consumer Confidence Held Steady in March

Optimism about the current state of the economy was offset by anxiety around inflation and the political environment.

Bernadette Mack
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
Mercury Free Mining Hires Bernadette Mack

The former WJA executive director is MFM’s new managing director.

April Is Diamonds Do Good Month
Policies & IssuesMar 27, 2024
Diamonds Do Good Announces Its April Initiative

DDG encourages retailers to educate customers on the positive impact of purchasing natural diamonds.

Tiffany & Co. With Love, Since 1837
MajorsMar 26, 2024
Tiffany & Co. Debuts ‘With Love, Since 1837’ Campaign

Highlighting the most iconic Tiffany collections, it’s inspired by the company’s late window designer, Gene Moore.

National Jeweler columnists Duvall O’Steen and Jen Cullen Williams
ColumnistsMar 26, 2024
Creative Connecting: AI Tools and Tips for Social Media

Jen Cullen Williams and Duvall O’Steen explore how jewelers can save time and money by using AI to analyze engagement and create content.

Nordstrom Men’s Store New York City
MajorsMar 26, 2024
Nordstrom May Go Private, Says Report

The retailer previously turned down an $8.4 billion offer in 2018.

Interior of Miami Lakes Jewelers
IndependentsMar 26, 2024
Miami Lakes Jewelers to Close After 37 Years

The Florida store’s owner Miguel Gonzalez is retiring.

 International Gemological Institute
GradingMar 26, 2024
IGI Announces Tech for ID’ing Lab-Grown Colored Diamonds

The lab stresses the importance of accurate identification, as the difference in price is “substantial.”

Kendra Scott lab-grown diamond jewelry
CollectionsMar 25, 2024
Kendra Scott Debuts Lab-Grown Diamond Fashion Jewelry

The brand also plans to expand its retail footprint from 138 to 200 stores over the next three years.

Instappraise logo NAJA logo
Events & AwardsMar 25, 2024
NAJA, Instappraise Offering Scholarships for Aspiring Jewelry Appraisers

One is reserved for a NAJA member, the other for a non-member.

Carie Lehrke and Megan Mattice
MajorsMar 25, 2024
Borsheims Announces New VP of HR, Assistant Manager

Longtime employees Carie Lehrke and Megan Mattice have received promotions.

My Next Question graphic vintage jewelry webinar
Recorded WebinarsMar 22, 2024
Watch: How to Buy and Sell Vintage Jewelry

Three guests joined National Jeweler and Jewelers of America to discuss trending time periods, spotting reproductions, and more.

Chris Clipper and Robert Lepere
MajorsMar 22, 2024
David Yurman Announces New CFO, Chief People Officer

Chris Clipper and Robert Lepere join the company with 50 years of combined experience.

Nakard pyrite earrings
CollectionsMar 22, 2024
Piece of the Week: Nakard’s Pyrite Earrings

The trendy, metallic earrings wink at classic spring colors.

Stock image of police cars with their lights on
CrimeMar 21, 2024
Sparks Fly as Burglars Lose Safe on California Freeway

JSA said a man and woman pulled the safe out of an Oakland jewelry store but couldn’t quite get it into their van.

Grizzly Mining rough emeralds
SourcingMar 21, 2024
Grizzly Sells 4,145-Carat Emerald for Over $1M

The miner’s March auction generated $19 million.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy