ColumnistsJan 13, 2026
2025 Was a ‘Price Up, Units Down’ Year, Here’s What That Signals for 2026 In a market defined by more selective consumers, Sherry Smith shares why execution will be independent jewelers’ key to growth this year.
TrendsFeb 07, 2016
The history behind … Belle Époque jewelry
Susan Abeles of Bonhams gives insight into this era of jewelry design, created as a display of wealth during the early 20th century.
New York--The early 1900s were a time of peace and prosperity in the United States and, for many, also a time of wealth, as small businesses grew and factory output flourished.
Susan Abeles is the director of U.S. jewelry at the auction house Bonhams in New York. She recently took the time to speak with National Jeweler about Belle Époque jewelry, its history and how much it is worth today.
What is Belle Époque jewelry? Belle Époque jewelry was created during the first 15 years of the 20th century, and was inspired by motifs popular during the rule of Louis XIV--bows, swags (wreaths or garlands of fabric) and wreaths were favored.
This jewelry was fashioned with pale-colored gemstones, like pearls and diamonds, into lavish necklaces, stomachers (the triangle-shaped panel used to fill the front of a woman’s dress), tiaras and earrings.
Platinum replaced heavier silver mountings, allowing gemstones to appear in delicate-yet-strong mountings that provided optimum light, airiness and natural beauty. “It was a time of elegance and opulence,” Abeles said.
Why was Belle Époque jewelry created? What was it used for? Belle Époque is French for “Beautiful Era,” because it was a peaceful and prosperous time. Progress in technology and advances from the industrial revolution brought wealth to all classes.
“Belle Époque jewelry was used to display this new wealth,” Abeles said. “Ladies dressed for evening in beautiful lightweight material of chiffon or satin, which were adorned with elaborate lace and beadwork. These diaphanous, high-waisted, less-fitted gowns with low necklines, short sleeves and long-gloved arms provided the perfect stage to showcase the jewels of this era.”
Long hair also was worn up and ornamented with jewels and feathers, while ladies’ necklines would typically display a natural pearl choker complemented by a sautoir or multiple strands of pearls.
When was it popular? “Belle Époque jewelry was popular from approximately 1900 to 1915.
“Today, jewels of this era remain collectible as they are rare and limited in number,” Abeles said. “Moreover, the value, rarity and appreciation for natural pearls continues to grow, creating
a demand for Belle Époque jewelry.”
What other materials were used in Belle Époque jewelry? Aside from natural pearls and diamonds, fancy colored diamonds in yellow, pink and blue while aquamarine, topaz, demantoid garnet and rubies served as accent gemstones.
How much are Belle Époque pieces worth? The value of a piece is dependent on many factors, including material, design, significance, provenance, signature, market and wearability, Abeles said, noting that prices can range from $20,000 and up, sometimes reaching more than $5 million.
How can a retailer add Belle Époque pieces to their jewelry offerings? “Of course, purchase them at auction,” Abeles said, jokingly.
Really, though, interested jewelers might want to look there first.
“Belle Époque is a very limited quantity of jewels that really have survived, and survived in their natural state,” she said. “The pieces are rare, and high-quality fine piece of any era remain collectible.
“Jewelers do recreate pieces in this style, and that’s remained popular, but for a retailer they either need to own or purchase Belle Époque jewelry from an estate, at auction or from a client. That’s the main way it becomes available.”
More on Trends
The Latest
IndependentsJan 13, 2026
Orr’s Jewelers Opens New Location in Pittsburgh’s Strip DistrictThe family-owned jeweler’s new space is in a former wholesale produce market.
CrimeJan 13, 2026
Alleged Getaway Driver Charged in Florida Jewelry Store RobberyIvel Sanchez Rivera, 52, has been arrested and charged in connection with the armed robbery of Tio Jewelers in Cape Coral, Florida.
Brought to you by
How Jewelers Can Fight Back Against Cell JammersCriminals are using cell jammers to disable alarms, but new technology like JamAlert™ can stop them.
SourcingJan 13, 2026
Rio Grande To Offer Calibrated Diamond MeleeThe supplier’s online program allows customers to search and buy calibrated natural and lab-grown diamond melee, including in fancy shapes.
Weekly QuizJan 08, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Events & AwardsJan 13, 2026
NYC Jewelry, Antique, & Object Show Announces Winter EventThe new show will take place Jan. 23-25, 2026.
EditorsJan 12, 2026
Platinum, White Gold Rule the 2026 Golden GlobesAssociate Editor Natalie Francisco highlights her favorite jewelry moments from the Golden Globes, and they are (mostly) white hot.
Brought to you by
Impacting Tomorrow TodayHow Jewelers of America’s 20 Under 40 are leading to ensure a brighter future for the jewelry industry.
GradingJan 12, 2026
Peter Yantzer, Former Executive Director of AGS Labs, Dies at 77 Yantzer is remembered for the profound influence he had on diamond cut grading as well as his contagious smile and quick wit.
MajorsJan 12, 2026
These 14 Macy’s Locations Will Close This YearThe store closures are part of the retailer’s “Bold New Chapter” turnaround plan.
MajorsJan 12, 2026
Jewelers Mutual Acquires AI-Powered Event Insurance ProgramThrough EventGuard, the company will offer event liability and cancellation insurance, including wedding coverage.
MajorsJan 09, 2026
Kendra Scott Taps Activewear Exec as CEO Chris Blakeslee has experience at Athleta and Alo Yoga. Kendra Scott will remain on board as executive chair and chief visionary officer.
SurveysJan 09, 2026
U.S. Holiday Retail Sales Up 4%, Visa, Mastercard SayThe credit card companies’ surveys examined where consumers shopped, what they bought, and what they valued this holiday season.
AuctionsJan 09, 2026
Christie’s Names New Global Managing Director for LuxuryKimberly Miller has been promoted to the role.
CollectionsJan 09, 2026
Piece of the Week: Lionheart’s ‘Serenity’ Opal CharmThe “Serenity” charm set with 13 opals is a modern amulet offering protection, guidance, and intention, the brand said.
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Pandora’s New ‘Bridgerton’ Jewels Celebrate Bees, Bows, and Blooms“Bridgerton” actresses Hannah Dodd and Claudia Jessie star in the brand’s “Rules to Love By” campaign.
Events & AwardsJan 08, 2026
Ana Khouri To Receive 2026 Gem Award for High Jewelry ExcellenceFounded by jeweler and sculptor Ana Khouri, the brand is “expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be.”
CollectionsJan 08, 2026
Gracie Abrams To Front New Chanel Jewelry CampaignThe singer-songwriter will make her debut as the French luxury brand’s new ambassador in a campaign for its “Coco Crush” jewelry line.
MajorsJan 08, 2026
Diamond Council of America Names New Board DirectorsThe nonprofit’s new president and CEO, Annie Doresca, also began her role this month.
ColumnistsJan 07, 2026
Peter Smith: Physical Retail—The Beginning or the End?As the shopping mall model evolves and online retail grows, Smith shares his predictions for the future of physical stores.
Events & AwardsJan 07, 2026
Melee Adds 13 New Designers to NYC ShowThe trade show is slated for Jan. 31-Feb. 2 at The Lighthouse in New York City's Chelsea neighborhood.
SourcingJan 07, 2026
Diamonds Do Good Releases 2025 Impact ReportThe annual report highlights how it supported communities in areas where natural diamonds are mined, crafted, and sold.
CrimeJan 06, 2026
2 Jewelers Arrested After TraxNYC Diamond District BrawlFootage of a fight breaking out in the NYC Diamond District was viewed millions of times on Instagram and Facebook.
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Rio Grande Says These Are the Top Personalization Tools for 2026The supplier has a curated list of must-have tools for jewelers doing in-house custom work this year.
MajorsJan 06, 2026
Zales Tests Out A New LookThe Signet Jewelers-owned store, which turned 100 last year, calls its new concept stores “The Edit.”
MajorsJan 06, 2026
LeachGarner Appoints New Director of SalesLinda Coutu is rejoining the precious metals provider as its director of sales.
SourcingJan 06, 2026
AGA Announces 2026 BoardThe governing board welcomed two new members, Claire Scragg and Susan Eisen.
