CrimeFeb 27, 2026
Man Charged in Murders of Father, Son Jewelers in ChicagoChicago police and members of the U.S. Marshals Service tracked down the 35-year-old suspect earlier this week in St. Louis.
TrendsFeb 07, 2016
The history behind … Belle Époque jewelry
Susan Abeles of Bonhams gives insight into this era of jewelry design, created as a display of wealth during the early 20th century.
New York--The early 1900s were a time of peace and prosperity in the United States and, for many, also a time of wealth, as small businesses grew and factory output flourished.
Susan Abeles is the director of U.S. jewelry at the auction house Bonhams in New York. She recently took the time to speak with National Jeweler about Belle Époque jewelry, its history and how much it is worth today.
What is Belle Époque jewelry? Belle Époque jewelry was created during the first 15 years of the 20th century, and was inspired by motifs popular during the rule of Louis XIV--bows, swags (wreaths or garlands of fabric) and wreaths were favored.
This jewelry was fashioned with pale-colored gemstones, like pearls and diamonds, into lavish necklaces, stomachers (the triangle-shaped panel used to fill the front of a woman’s dress), tiaras and earrings.
Platinum replaced heavier silver mountings, allowing gemstones to appear in delicate-yet-strong mountings that provided optimum light, airiness and natural beauty. “It was a time of elegance and opulence,” Abeles said.
Why was Belle Époque jewelry created? What was it used for? Belle Époque is French for “Beautiful Era,” because it was a peaceful and prosperous time. Progress in technology and advances from the industrial revolution brought wealth to all classes.
“Belle Époque jewelry was used to display this new wealth,” Abeles said. “Ladies dressed for evening in beautiful lightweight material of chiffon or satin, which were adorned with elaborate lace and beadwork. These diaphanous, high-waisted, less-fitted gowns with low necklines, short sleeves and long-gloved arms provided the perfect stage to showcase the jewels of this era.”
Long hair also was worn up and ornamented with jewels and feathers, while ladies’ necklines would typically display a natural pearl choker complemented by a sautoir or multiple strands of pearls.
When was it popular? “Belle Époque jewelry was popular from approximately 1900 to 1915.
“Today, jewels of this era remain collectible as they are rare and limited in number,” Abeles said. “Moreover, the value, rarity and appreciation for natural pearls continues to grow, creating
a demand for Belle Époque jewelry.”
What other materials were used in Belle Époque jewelry? Aside from natural pearls and diamonds, fancy colored diamonds in yellow, pink and blue while aquamarine, topaz, demantoid garnet and rubies served as accent gemstones.
How much are Belle Époque pieces worth? The value of a piece is dependent on many factors, including material, design, significance, provenance, signature, market and wearability, Abeles said, noting that prices can range from $20,000 and up, sometimes reaching more than $5 million.
How can a retailer add Belle Époque pieces to their jewelry offerings? “Of course, purchase them at auction,” Abeles said, jokingly.
Really, though, interested jewelers might want to look there first.
“Belle Époque is a very limited quantity of jewels that really have survived, and survived in their natural state,” she said. “The pieces are rare, and high-quality fine piece of any era remain collectible.
“Jewelers do recreate pieces in this style, and that’s remained popular, but for a retailer they either need to own or purchase Belle Époque jewelry from an estate, at auction or from a client. That’s the main way it becomes available.”
More on Trends
The Latest
SourcingFeb 27, 2026
South African Diamond Mine Closes Amid Search for Missing WorkersOwners of the Ekapa Mine reportedly filed for liquidation about a week after a mudslide trapped five workers who have yet to be found.
MajorsFeb 27, 2026
Jewelers Mutual to Donate $10M to Savannah College of Art and DesignA 10-year alliance has also begun to address the shortage of bench jewelers through scholarships, enhanced programs, and updated equipment.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
CollectionsFeb 27, 2026
Renato Cipullo Turns Gold into HardstonesThe “Splendente” collection has evolved to feature hardstone letter pendants, including our Piece of the Week, the onyx “R.”
Weekly QuizFeb 26, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
AuctionsFeb 26, 2026
Noonans to Auction Lady Wardington’s JewelryThe jewelry collection belonged to “one of society's most glamorous and beautiful women of the mid-20th century,” said the auction house.
SourcingFeb 26, 2026
Anglo American CEO Gives Insight Into De Beers SaleThe update came as Anglo took its third write-down on the diamond miner and marketer, which lost more than $500 million in 2025.
Brought to you by
DCA Enters a New Chapter in Jewelry EducationWith refreshed branding, a new website, updated courses, and a pathway for growth, DCA is dedicated to supporting retail staff development.
ColumnistsFeb 26, 2026
Practical Ways Jewelers Can Leverage AI in 2026Emmanuel Raheb discusses the rise of “GEO” and the importance of having well-written, quality content on your website.
CrimeFeb 26, 2026
Three Sentenced in California Jewelry HeistEach received around four years for burglarizing a jewelry store and a coffee shop in Simi Valley, California, last May.
Events & AwardsFeb 26, 2026
GIA Names 2026 Jewelry Design Contest Winner, Retires Annual AwardCatherine Aulick, a GIA graduate, received the ninth and final Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design.
SourcingFeb 25, 2026
7 Trends That Could Define the Diamond Industry’s FutureExperts from India weigh in the politics, policies, and market dynamics for diamantaires to monitor in 2026 and beyond.
EditorsFeb 25, 2026
Q&A: Brilliant Earth’s CEO on the New Beverly Hills StoreBeth Gerstein discusses the vibe of the new store, what customers want when fine jewelry shopping today, and the details of “Date Night.”
PodcastsFeb 25, 2026
Episode 2: Jewelry Trends & Does the Red Carpet Matter?Are arm bands poised to make a comeback? Has red-carpet jewelry become boring? Find out on the second episode of the “My Next Question” podcast.
WatchesFeb 25, 2026
Private Equity Firms Write Down Value of Breitling, Report SaysThe Swiss watchmaker is battling declining sales amid a rapid retail expansion, according to a Financial Times report.
CollectionsFeb 25, 2026
Rahaminov Diamonds’ New Campaign Honors Its MatriarchThe campaign celebrates Giustina Pavanello Rahaminov, the co-founder’s wife and matriarch of the family-owned brand, for her 88th birthday.
IndependentsFeb 25, 2026
Borsheims Names 2025 ‘Ike-It’ Award WinnerRachel Bennett, a senior jeweler who has been with Borsheims since 2004, earned the award.
Policies & IssuesFeb 24, 2026
IEEPA Tariffs Terminated, New 10% Tariff Already ImposedAfter the Supreme Court struck down the IEEPA tariffs, President Trump imposed a 10 percent tax on almost all imports via a different law.
IndependentsFeb 24, 2026
Sherry Smith Now Principal Partner at The Retail SmithsThe industry veteran, who was with The Edge Retail Academy for 14 years, joins her husband at the company he founded in 2022.
IndependentsFeb 24, 2026
Yafa Signed Jewels to Open Store in MiamiThe vintage signed jewelry retailer chose Miami due to growing client demand in the city and the greater Latin American region.
WatchesFeb 24, 2026
Chrono24 Names New VP, U.S. General ManagerFormer Flight Club executive Jin Lee will bring his experience from the sneaker world to the pre-owned watch marketplace.
SourcingFeb 23, 2026
Designer Eddie Sakamoto, a Humble Artist, Dies at 72Sakamoto, who died in mid-January following a sudden illness, is remembered for his humility and his masterful, architectural designs.
Events & AwardsFeb 23, 2026
NYCJAOS Announces Four-Day Spring ShowThe April event will feature a new VIP shopping day requiring a special ticket.
Policies & IssuesFeb 20, 2026
Supreme Court Rules Against Most of President Trump’s TariffsIn a 6-3 ruling, the court said the president exceeded his authority when imposing sweeping tariffs under IEEPA.
ColumnistsFeb 20, 2026
Peter Smith: Happiness, Cavemen, and Jewelry SalesSmith encourages salespeople to ask customers questions that elicit the release of oxytocin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical.
MajorsFeb 20, 2026
Jewelers Vigilance Committee Names Julie Yoakum Board ChairJVC also announced the election of five new board members.
CollectionsFeb 20, 2026
Boucheron’s ‘Faisceaux’ Brooch Heads to V&A MuseumThe brooch, our Piece of the Week, shows the chromatic spectrum through a holographic coating on rock crystal.
