Policies & IssuesSep 25, 2025
JA CEO Provides Tariff Update Following Annual Fly-InA trade deal with Switzerland seems probable, but reaching an agreement with India remains a challenge, David Bonaparte said.
TrendsFeb 10, 2016
The History Behind … Posy rings
In the latest installment of The History Behind, National Jeweler explores the origin of posy rings, one of the first examples of personalized jewelry.
New York--Long before today’s couples were engraving their wedding bands with initials or dates, lovers of old were swapping secret messages and vowing their lifelong commitment on posy rings.
Also spelled posie or poesy, these rings derived their name from the French word “poésie,” or poem, because of the short sayings with which they were engraved that were religious, friendly or amorous in nature.
Also spelled posie or poesy, these rings derived their name from the French word “poésie,” or poem, because of the short sayings with which they were engraved that were religious, friendly or amorous in nature.
While there are not a great number of jewelry designers using the word “posy” in connection with new collections today, the desire for jewelry engraved with personalized messages has never faded.
Part of the collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, this circa 1300 gold posy ring is inscribed in Lombardic capitals, “Well for him who knows whom he can trust.” (Photo credit: © Victoria and Albert Museum, London)
“It’s continued down through history,” observed Mary Borchert, a historian with Antique Jewelry University. “Nowadays, we don’t call it a posy ring but we technically could because it has the inscription inside.”
National Jeweler dug into the online archives of the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, which houses what is arguably the largest collection of posy rings in the world, and spoke with one modern-day jewelry designer inspired by the poesies of old for this latest installment of The History Behind.
What are posy rings and when were they worn?
According to the Victoria & Albert Museum, posy rings were popular from the latter half of the Middle Ages, which extended from the 5th to 15th century.
According to the Victoria & Albert Museum, posy rings were popular from the latter half of the Middle Ages, which extended from the 5th to 15th century.
In medieval times, when religion was very much a part of everyday life, it was common for saints’ figures or religious text to appear on the rings alongside romantic expressions or even expressions of friendship. In this way, the rings functioned both as a religious talisman and a gift of love.
Jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann, who recently launched a line of posy-ring inspired jewelry, said posy rings also were exchanged between kingdoms and religious houses as a show of support.
According to the Victoria & Albert, posy rings from Medieval period mostly have the words engraved around the outside of the band, while in later examples the lettering is found inside.
What were some of the most common inscriptions?
Like much personalized jewelry today, the posy ring provided the wearer the chance to don something completely different than what their neighbor had. They could dictate a saying that was personal to them and the person with whom they were exchanging the ring.
Like much personalized jewelry today, the posy ring provided the wearer the chance to don something completely different than what their neighbor had. They could dictate a saying that was personal to them and the person with whom they were exchanging the ring.
The Victoria & Albert Museum also noted, however, that certain inscriptions appear on multiple rings, indicating the goldsmiths of the day had a book of stock phrases from which clients could choose.
Borchert said George Kunz’s 1917 book, Rings for the Finger, contains a list of posy rings phrases, including “Joy without end” and “Let liking last.”
The phrases were written in Latin, Old French or Old English. Until about 1350, the lettering was done in a script with rounded capital letters known as Lombardic, while later examples use Gothic script.
How can retailers add posy rings to their antique jewelry inventory?
In her 25 years in the jewelry industry, Borchert said she has seen only a few true posy rings.
In her 25 years in the jewelry industry, Borchert said she has seen only a few true posy rings.
Because they are so old--the above example dates from the 1300s--most end up in museums like the Victoria & Albert in London or in the hands of private collectors.
There are, of course, modern interpretations as seen in Kosann’s collection, which was created to benefit three different charities, the Breast Cancer Research Foundation, the North Shore Animal League and Win, a charity for homeless woman and children in New York.
“They were one of the most romantic pieces in history,” Kosann said when explaining why she picked this particular category as the inspiration for her new collection.
The designer opted to make her modern-day posy rings smaller than the average ring so her customers mostly wear them on a chain, a “really cool look” she said she’s seen on a lot of young women and that has, apparently, resonated with customers.
“It’s just gotten such a great response,” she said. “It’s really exciting for us.”
While Kosann had the foresight to link her collection of engraved rings to the poesies of old--giving her retailers a story with which to sell the pieces--Borchert pointed out that one could make the argument that any ring with a meaningful phrase inscribed is, in fact, a posy ring.
“The message is the thing. If it has the message, you could make a point that it’s a posy ring,” she said.
More on Trends
The Latest
SourcingSep 25, 2025
2 African Countries Aim to Take Stake in De Beers Botswana’s president said his country wants a controlling share, while Angola envisions multiple countries holding minority stakes.
Lab-GrownSep 25, 2025
Kira Jewels Expands Lab-Grown Diamond ProductionThe manufacturer is adding 1,400 chemical vapor deposition (CVD) reactors to its growing facility in India.
Brought to you by
reDollar.com Is Rolling Out the Next Level Jewelry, Diamond & Watch Consignment ProgramWith their unmatched services and low fees, reDollar.com is challenging some big names in the online consignment world.
IndependentsSep 25, 2025
Alex Moss’ New Flagship Brings Bold Jewels to SoHoThe jeweler to the stars has worked with Drake, A$AP Rocky, Tyler the Creator, and other celebrities.
Weekly QuizSep 25, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
WatchesSep 25, 2025
Wilson & Son Jewelers Donates to the Horological Society of New YorkThe Scarsdale, New York-based jeweler donated a professional-grade watch cleaning machine.
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Tariffs Throw Diamond Trade Into DisarrayThe 50 percent tariffs on diamonds shipped from India to the U.S. have pushed midstream manufacturers to the edge.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
SourcingSep 24, 2025
De Beers Adopts New Strategies to Drive Natural Diamond Demand in IndiaDe Beers’ refreshed, multipronged approach, which includes generic promotions and retail partnerships, is delivering positive dividends.
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
For Jewelry Manufacturers, Higher Tariffs Create Long-Term WorriesThey are trying to balance the need to sustain well-established relationships with the pressure higher tariffs have put on margins.
SourcingSep 24, 2025
A Helping Hand: An Effort to Boost Inclusivity in the IndustryJewelry manufacturer Jewelex has partnered with JOSH, an industry training center, on a program for people with disabilities.
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Greenwich St. Jewelers Goes Back in Time With First Estate CollectionThe collection includes pieces dating back to the Victorian and Art Deco periods as well as mid-century and late 20th-century designs.
Policies & IssuesSep 24, 2025
Diamonds Do Good Names Marcus ter Haar as President-ElectHe previously served as co-chair of the nonprofit’s beneficiary committee.
CollectionsSep 24, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s New Jane Goodall Collection Calls for PeaceIts second collaboration with the conservationist features jewelry with dove and olive branch motifs.
SourcingSep 24, 2025
SRK Launches Kriam PharmaThe diamond manufacturer’s new company will provide accessible and affordable high-quality medicines across India.
ColumnistsSep 23, 2025
Quiet Luxury: What Fall’s Top Trend Means for JewelersEmmanuel Raheb shares tips on how a jeweler’s showcases, marketing, and social media presence can whisper, instead of shout.
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Ames Watson Completes $140M Acquisition of Claire’sThe private equity firm has a plan to revive the mall staple.
SourcingSep 23, 2025
Super Smalls’ New Book Introduces Kids to Gems, Fine JewelryThe “Super Book of Gems” dives into the Mohs Hardness Scale, the Four C’s, and designs from jewelers like Cartier and Bulgari.
MajorsSep 23, 2025
Mattioli Names Kering Exec as New CEOClaudio Pasta will take the lead at the Italian fine jewelry brand, succeeding company founder Licia Mattioli.
CollectionsSep 23, 2025
Monique Lhuillier Adds Fashion Jewelry to Kay Jewelers LineThe new lab-grown diamond jewelry offering is the latest expansion of the designer’s “Bliss” collection.
SourcingSep 22, 2025
Rio Tinto Announces Final ‘Beyond Rare’ TenderThe miner is honoring the end of an era with an offering of 52 lots from the now-closed Argyle and the soon-to-close Diavik mines.
MajorsSep 22, 2025
Jewelry Manufacturer Vibhor Acquires AlorThe California-based fine jewelry brand will retain its identity post-acquisition, with new collections launching next year.
CollectionsSep 22, 2025
Gurhan's Collection is an 'Untamed' ZooThe “Untamed” collection centers on carved gemstone jewelry depicting a range of animals embodying one of the four elemental forces.
Policies & IssuesSep 22, 2025
Ethical Metalsmiths Has a New Name Founded in 2004, the organization is now called the Community for Ethical Jewelry.
EditorsSep 19, 2025
These Female Athletes Had the Best Jewelry of the SummerFrom Coco Gauff’s hoops to Madison Keys’ diamond medallion, these are Senior Editor Lenore Fedow’s standout jewelry looks of the season.
CollectionsSep 19, 2025
Piece of the Week: Vanessa Fernández Studio’s ‘Curva’ Wrap HoopsThe trendy earrings feature asymmetrical drops, one with a grossular garnet and the other with a diamond.
Recorded WebinarsSep 19, 2025
Watch: A Step-by-Step Guide to Using TikTok and Instagram ReelsFour social media marketing experts discuss their go-to methods and favorite tools for making high-quality short-form video content.
