Grading

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

GradingApr 19, 2021

Here’s What SSEF Found When It Studied High-Quality Afghan Emeralds

The Swiss lab reveals how stones from the Panjshir Valley are both different from and similar to emeralds from other places.

20210419_SSEF-header.jpg
The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF released the results of what it claims is the first published study of a new high-quality emerald type from Afghanistan. At left, an Afghan emerald, and at right, a Colombian emerald (Image courtesy SSEF)
Basel, Switzerland—The Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF conducted intensive research on high-quality Afghan emeralds and has released its findings for the trade.

In 2017, the lab started seeing a new kind of emerald from the country’s Panjshir Valley, nearly all of which were fine quality, SSEF Director Michael Krzemnicki said.

As they do for all less familiar material, researchers at SSEF decided to study the emeralds extensively to find ways to separate them from others.

This was necessary, especially given that the material is occasionally mislabeled as Colombian, Krzemnicki said.

The high-quality Panjshir Valley emeralds closely match the South American specimens in terms of both their appearance and their gemological properties, SSEF said.

The Swiss lab conducted the study by testing and analyzing more than 100 gem-quality emeralds from the Panjshir Valley, ranging from 1 carat to more than 30 carats.

It also looked at emeralds from Colombia, Zambia, Ethiopia, Pakistan and Davdar, China, the lab confirmed.

To develop reliable ways to distinguish the Afghan emeralds from others, SSEF compared emeralds from different origins through laser-ablation mass spectrometry using its state-of-the-art GemTOF instrument and by applying a machine-learning statistical algorithm for data processing and visualization.

By compiling 56 elements in the calculation, the Afghan emeralds could be characterized and differentiated from other emeralds, particularly Colombian. 

The research team reported that gemologically, Afghan emeralds are characterized by spiky to tubular fluid inclusions and very fine and parallel hollow channels, both of which are similar to inclusions that can be found in Colombian emeralds. 

But though the team also occasionally saw “chevron-like” growth features, the honeycomb-like pattern characteristic of Colombian emeralds—a graining often known in the trade as “gota de aceite”—has not yet been spotted in Afghan emeralds. 

 Related stories will be right here … 

Chemically, the composition of Afghan emeralds is “astonishingly similar” to Colombian emeralds, SSEF said, adding only a careful trace element analysis of the stones would reveal the differences.

The most common difference between the two is a higher iron concentration in the Afghan samples when compared to Colombian.

On the other hand, the iron content of the Afghan emeralds was still much smaller than that found in those mined in Zambia, Brazil, and Russia, among others.

In addition to being able to separate Afghan emeralds from other sources, another big takeaway for Krzemnicki from the study had to do with quality and origin.

He said one thing he found striking was the “exceptional quality” of some of the stones—very clear and with few fissures.

The study is a good reminder, he reiterated, that there are always new sources, or new pockets from existing sources, being discovered, as is the case with this Afghan material, bringing the market new fine quality stones.

“I feel the trade has, let’s say, a wrong idea of quality. Colombian emerald has a certain historical notion, but at the very end, when we talk about quality, other sources can deliver the best quality. For example, sapphires from Madagascar can be super quality. These Afghanistan emeralds can too. It doesn’t always have to be these old, established sources.”

SSEF called its research the first detailed study characterizing this type of emerald from Afghanistan.

Krzemnicki said they wanted to make the information available to other labs or trade members involved in gem testing; the scientists published their methods and findings in the most recent edition of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s Journal of Gemmology.

A PDF of the article can be found on the Gem-A website as well as the SSEF website

The Latest

Brilliant Earth Jolie Mosaics engagement ring
FinancialsAug 08, 2025
Brilliant Earth’s Q2 Sales Up 3% as Engagement Ring Sales Rise

The company raised its full-year sales guidance while noting it has not yet assessed the potential impact of the latest tariff news.

Jewellers for Hope charity event
Events & AwardsAug 08, 2025
GJEPC’s Jewellers for Hope Celebrates 10 Years of Fundraising

The organization has raised more than $1.3 million for charity since its inception.

Rahaminov Diamonds Emerald-Cut Diamond Bezel Bangle
TrendsAug 08, 2025
Piece of the Week: Rahaminov Diamonds’ Bezel Bangle

The brand’s latest iteration of a bezel-set diamond bangle features clean lines and a timeless design for a new modern silhouette.

rio-article photo-diamond.jpg
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine Jewelry

As a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.

Black and white photo of Tony Bennett near a microphone
WatchesAug 07, 2025
Bulova’s New Collection Honors Tony Bennett

The first watch in the series commemorates his participation in the Civil Rights movement, marching from Selma to Montgomery in 1965.

Weekly QuizAug 08, 2025
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Sapphire page in Chatham’s “Ultimate Lab-Grown Catalog”
Lab-GrownAug 07, 2025
Chatham Releases Catalog for Loose Lab-Grown Gemstones

The catalog contains a complete listing of all the loose gemstones in stock, as well as information about the properties of each stone.

Rembrandt Blue Jay, Hummingbird, Cardinal Bird Charms
TechnologyAug 07, 2025
Rembrandt Charms Debuts New Website, Bird Charms

The company added a retailer dashboard to its site and three new birds to its charm collection, the cardinal, blue jay, and hummingbird.

an instructor and a student in a bench jewelry classroom
Brought to you by
Investing in the Next Generation of Bench Jewelers

The Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship from Jewelers of America returns for a second year.

Shipping containers on a ship
Policies & IssuesAug 06, 2025
Tariff on India to Rise to 50%, Trump Says

An additional 25 percent tariff has been added to the previously announced 25 percent.

Claire’s storefront
MajorsAug 06, 2025
Claire’s Files for Chapter 11 Bankruptcy Again

The jewelry and accessories retailer plans to close 18 stores as part of the proceedings.

Smith & Son Jewelers storefront Springfield Massachusetts
IndependentsAug 06, 2025
Smith & Son Jewelers to Close 107-Year-Old Location

Its Springfield, Massachusetts, store is set to close as owner Andrew Smith heads into retirement.

Zahn-Z Beluga Spout Grey Spinel Ring and Beluga Spout Mandarin Garnet Ring
CollectionsAug 06, 2025
Zahn-Z Swims With Whales in ‘Beluga’ Collection

Designer Hiba Husayni looked to the whale’s melon shaped-head, blowhole, and fluke for her new chunky gold offerings.

Paola De Luca presenting Trendbook 2026+ at Vicenzaoro
TrendsAug 06, 2025
Paola De Luca to Release Trendbook 2027+

She will present the 23rd edition of the trend forecasting book at Vicenzaoro on Sept. 7.

Omar Roy mugshot
CrimeAug 05, 2025
Report: Suspect Arrested in 1992 Murder of Miami Jeweler

Omar Roy, 72, was arrested in connection with the murder of jeweler Dionisio Carlos Valladares.

Mignon Faget Beyond Katrina Pendant and Beyond Katrina Pin
CollectionsAug 05, 2025
Mignon Faget Commemorates 20th Anniversary of Hurricane Katrina

The New Orleans-based brand’s “Beyond Katrina” jewels honor the communities affected by the storm.

National Jeweler columnist Lilian Raji
ColumnistsAug 05, 2025
The PR Adviser: Affiliate Marketing Is the Cost of Coverage

Lilian Raji explains why joining an affiliate network is essential for brands seeking placements in U.S. consumer publications.

Jewelers of America Logo
Events & AwardsAug 05, 2025
JA Announces Seymour & Evelyn Holtzman Bench Scholarship Winners

The organization has awarded a total of $42,000 through its scholarship programs this year.

2026 Gem Awards logo
Events & AwardsAug 04, 2025
Gem Awards, David Yurman Introduce $50K Grant for Emerging Designers

The winner of the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards Grant will be announced live at the 2026 Gem Awards gala.

Marlo Laz peridot and diamond Alexandra earrings
TrendsAug 04, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: August’s Bright Baubles

As summer winds down, celebrate the sunny disposition of the month’s birthstones: peridot and spinel.

Surveillance image of Watch King robbery suspect
CrimeAug 04, 2025
‘The Watch King’ Assaulted, Robbed in Queens

Moshe Haimoff, a social media personality and 47th Street retailer, was robbed of $559,000 worth of jewelry by men in construction outfits.

Xavier Dibbrell
MajorsAug 04, 2025
Borsheims Welcomes New Assistant Facilities Manager

Xavier Dibbrell brings more than a decade of experience to the role.

Signet Jewelers logo
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Helzberg President Julie Yoakum Moves Over to Signet Jewelers

The addition of Yoakum, who will lead Kay and Peoples, was one of three executive appointments Signet announced Thursday.

Mike Alexander
MajorsAug 01, 2025
Jewelers Mutual Names Mike Alexander as President

The insurance company’s previous president and CEO, Scott Murphy, has split his role and will continue as CEO.

 Gemfields rough rubies
SourcingAug 01, 2025
Gemfields’ Auction Revenue Drops 50% in H1

The nearly six-month pause of operations at its Kagem emerald mine earlier this year impacted the miner’s first-half results.

Hernsdorf Tears of Aphrodite Necklace
CollectionsAug 01, 2025
Piece of the Week: Hernsdorf’s ‘Tears of Aphrodite’ Necklace

The necklace uses spinel drops to immortalize the moment Aphrodite’s tears mixed with her lover Adonis’ blood after he was fatally wounded.

Stock image of a polished diamonds being held by tweezers
SourcingJul 31, 2025
De Beers Records $189M First-Half Loss

The diamond miner and marketer warned last week that it expected to be in the red after significantly cutting prices in Q2.

Lindsey Scoggins Studio convertible flower earrings
Events & AwardsJul 31, 2025
These Are the 2025 CASE Award Winners

Jewelers of America’s 35th annual design contest recognized creativity, artistry, style, and excellence.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy