IndependentsAug 20, 2025
Bellman’s Jewelers Opens Second Store After COO's TikTok Takes OffThe New Hampshire-based store has expanded to Boston, propelled by the success of Alex Bellman’s TikTok page, “The Truthful Jeweler.”
TrendsFeb 07, 2016
The history behind … Belle Époque jewelry
Susan Abeles of Bonhams gives insight into this era of jewelry design, created as a display of wealth during the early 20th century.
New York--The early 1900s were a time of peace and prosperity in the United States and, for many, also a time of wealth, as small businesses grew and factory output flourished.
Susan Abeles is the director of U.S. jewelry at the auction house Bonhams in New York. She recently took the time to speak with National Jeweler about Belle Époque jewelry, its history and how much it is worth today.
What is Belle Époque jewelry? Belle Époque jewelry was created during the first 15 years of the 20th century, and was inspired by motifs popular during the rule of Louis XIV--bows, swags (wreaths or garlands of fabric) and wreaths were favored.
This jewelry was fashioned with pale-colored gemstones, like pearls and diamonds, into lavish necklaces, stomachers (the triangle-shaped panel used to fill the front of a woman’s dress), tiaras and earrings.
Platinum replaced heavier silver mountings, allowing gemstones to appear in delicate-yet-strong mountings that provided optimum light, airiness and natural beauty. “It was a time of elegance and opulence,” Abeles said.
Why was Belle Époque jewelry created? What was it used for? Belle Époque is French for “Beautiful Era,” because it was a peaceful and prosperous time. Progress in technology and advances from the industrial revolution brought wealth to all classes.
“Belle Époque jewelry was used to display this new wealth,” Abeles said. “Ladies dressed for evening in beautiful lightweight material of chiffon or satin, which were adorned with elaborate lace and beadwork. These diaphanous, high-waisted, less-fitted gowns with low necklines, short sleeves and long-gloved arms provided the perfect stage to showcase the jewels of this era.”
Long hair also was worn up and ornamented with jewels and feathers, while ladies’ necklines would typically display a natural pearl choker complemented by a sautoir or multiple strands of pearls.
When was it popular? “Belle Époque jewelry was popular from approximately 1900 to 1915.
“Today, jewels of this era remain collectible as they are rare and limited in number,” Abeles said. “Moreover, the value, rarity and appreciation for natural pearls continues to grow, creating
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
a demand for Belle Époque jewelry.”
What other materials were used in Belle Époque jewelry? Aside from natural pearls and diamonds, fancy colored diamonds in yellow, pink and blue while aquamarine, topaz, demantoid garnet and rubies served as accent gemstones.
How much are Belle Époque pieces worth? The value of a piece is dependent on many factors, including material, design, significance, provenance, signature, market and wearability, Abeles said, noting that prices can range from $20,000 and up, sometimes reaching more than $5 million.
How can a retailer add Belle Époque pieces to their jewelry offerings? “Of course, purchase them at auction,” Abeles said, jokingly.
Really, though, interested jewelers might want to look there first.
“Belle Époque is a very limited quantity of jewels that really have survived, and survived in their natural state,” she said. “The pieces are rare, and high-quality fine piece of any era remain collectible.
“Jewelers do recreate pieces in this style, and that’s remained popular, but for a retailer they either need to own or purchase Belle Époque jewelry from an estate, at auction or from a client. That’s the main way it becomes available.”
More on Trends
The Latest
CrimeAug 20, 2025
Another CA Jewelry Store Rammed With Car, RobbedThe latest incident happened Monday at a store in Oakland, California, continuing a pattern JSA first warned about last month.
WatchesAug 20, 2025
Oris Launches Watch Benefiting NYC Harbor Oyster RestorationThe new aqua green New York Harbor Limited Edition II is the watchmaker’s second collaboration with the Billion Oyster Project.
Brought to you by
Rallying Call for the Jewelry Industry on Tariffs and Other Key IssuesJewelers of America is leading the charge to protect the industry amidst rising economic threats.
Events & AwardsAug 20, 2025
Take the Jewelers for Children ‘Trinity of Purpose’ ChallengeParticipants who attend any three Rings of Strength events will be awarded a special medal.
Weekly QuizAug 15, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
SourcingAug 19, 2025
Dubai’s Jemora Group Buys Diamond Miner LucapaThe investment company, founded by Dev Shetty, has acquired the struggling miner and its assets, including the Lulo mine in Angola.
ColumnistsAug 19, 2025
Peter Smith: The Arrival Fallacy and Jewelry RetailSmith shares wisdom he gleaned from a podcast he was listening to one morning while being walked by his dog, a Malshi named Sophie.
Brought to you by
Taking the Moment Head On: How Rio Grande Champions the Present & Future of Fine JewelryAs a leading global jewelry supplier, Rio Grande is rapidly expanding and developing new solutions to meet the needs of jewelers worldwide.
CrimeAug 19, 2025
Customs Seizes 7,300 Pairs of Fake ‘Alhambra’ EarringsThe counterfeit Van Cleef & Arpels jewels would have been worth more than $30 million if genuine.
MajorsAug 19, 2025
MJSA Apprenticeship Program Is Nationally RecognizedThe MJSA Mentor & Apprenticeship Program received the Registered Apprenticeship Program designation by the U.S. Department of Labor.
WatchesAug 19, 2025
Casio America Names New Timepiece Division ManagerCasio executive and watch enthusiast Masaki Obu is the new general manager of its U.S. timepiece division.
MajorsAug 18, 2025
Verragio’s Michael Barabash, a ‘Kind Soul,’ Dies at 58Barabash, Verragio’s client relations representative, was a vital member of the team and is remembered as being warm and full of life.
CollectionsAug 18, 2025
John Hardy’s New ‘Dot’ Collection Is on PointOriginally introduced in 1992, the “Dot” collection is back with a capsule featuring five archival designs and three new creations.
Events & AwardsAug 18, 2025
IJO Announces 2025 Vendor of the YearAllison-Kaufman has received the honor for the fourth year in a row.
FinancialsAug 15, 2025
In Q2 Results, Pandora Talks Tariffs, Q4 Plans The company had a solid second quarter, with sales of non-charm jewelry outpacing sales of pieces in its core collections.
EditorsAug 15, 2025
Piece of the Week: Etho Maria’s Showgirl-Approved Ruby Drop Earrings Taylor Swift dons the vibrant pair in new promotional imagery for her upcoming album, “The Life of a Showgirl,” set to release in October.
WatchesAug 15, 2025
Audemars Piguet Acquires Majority Stake in ManufacturerIts investment in micromechanics expert Inhotec will preserve skills essential to the watchmaking industry as a whole, said the company.
MajorsAug 15, 2025
Rio Grande Names New Marketing DirectorNicolette Bianchi joins the wholesale provider with more than 15 years of cross-industry experience in marketing and product development.
CollectionsAug 14, 2025
In Midst of ‘Sardine Girl Summer,’ Pippa Small Looks to ‘Flounder Fall’Her new “Ocean” collection was inspired by Myanmar’s traditional articulated fish jewelry, with depictions of flounder, catfish, and more.
MajorsAug 14, 2025
Casio America Names New CEOLongtime Casio executive Yusuke Suzuki is the new president and CEO of Casio’s U.S. subsidiary.
SourcingAug 14, 2025
West Coast Orgs to Host Trading Event, Mixer in LAThe full-day sourcing and networking event, slated for Aug. 18, will be followed by the fifth annual Mega Mixer Summer Soirée.
SourcingAug 13, 2025
ICA Names 2025 Board of DirectorsThe board elected 9 new directors at its recent ICA Congress in Brazil.
SurveysAug 13, 2025
These Are The 25 Hottest Retailers, Says NRFJD Sports and Wawa were among the fastest-growing retail companies in the U.S. last year.
SourcingAug 13, 2025
Columbia Gem House Launches Winza Sapphires, RubiesThe new inventory, all untreated, features vibrant hues and unique bicolor combinations.
SourcingAug 12, 2025
Gemfields Sells Fabergé for $50MAcquired by a tech investor, the historic brand will continue to focus on jewelry, accessories, and timepieces.
Policies & IssuesAug 12, 2025
Higher Tariff on Chinese Imports Paused for 90 Days, Trump SaysPresident Donald Trump issued an executive order extending the pause on higher tariffs to November as negotiations with China continue.
CollectionsAug 12, 2025
Jacquie Aiche’s New Collection Harnesses the Energy of the ThunderbirdThe “Thunderbird Slab” collection features a thunderbird motif as a symbol of power, protection, and boundless possibility.
