TrendsOct 31, 2025
Piece of the Week: A Spinner Fit for ‘Frankenstein’This “Mother Father” spinner necklace from Heavenly Vices Fine Jewelry draws inspiration from Victorian Era jewelry.
Events & AwardsJun 07, 2019
Couture Trendspotting: The Top Looks from the Trade Show
Three stores weigh in on the trends and designers who caught their eyes at the recently concluded jewelry trade show.
The 2019 edition of the Couture show concluded Monday at the Wynn Las Vegas. Among the trends buyers spotted were color and convertible jewels. (Photo credit: Sandro Art + Photography)
Las Vegas—Color, courtesy of enamel and bright gemstones, denoted a joyful mood at the 2019 Couture show, and buyers were loving the positive feel.
“There’s a ton of enamel,” said Alexandra Lippin, fine jewelry buyer and public relations director of southern California-based chain Elyse Walker. “It is definitely a trend that is everywhere. Melissa Kaye is doing really bright fluorescent enamel. She probably had the most daring enamel, and I loved it.”
Columbus, Ohio’s D.C. Johnson Limited owner David Johnson and Marketing and Merchandising Director Libby Schmitz echoed Lippin’s thoughts on the designer, whose homage to athletic wear and an updated ‘80s color palette was the buzz of the jewelry trade show.
“We saw a lot of enamel last year but not like Melissa Kaye’s new neon pieces,” Schmitz said. “We got orange, green and pink in the new ‘needle’ necklaces.”
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Melissa Kaye (@melissakayejewelry) on May 24, 2019 at 4:32pm PDT
Other designers Lippin mentioned who presented strong enamel collections were Andrea Fohrman, a champion of “fun color,” and Selim Mouzannar, who took a more “elegant, chic” route.
She added: “I loved Marlo Laz’s nod to the ‘70s with her tie-dye charms,” new enamel pendants that are hand-painted to produce a tie-dye effect, each one unique.
Color wasn’t just relegated to enamel, however.
Lippin said she noticed a diverse array of colored gemstones and interesting materials at the show, from tanzanite to rhodolite, and even fossils.
“I can’t stress enough to my staff that taking the time to learn is the difference between selling it and not. If the value is there and the design is there, then the customer falls in love.”
— Alexandra Lippin, buyer for Elyse Walker
“A lot of designers who maybe I wouldn’t expect to see color from, I’ve seen color from,” she said. “I died for Sylva & Cie. She had this whole dinosaur fossil story that I just fell in love with.”
Sylva & Cie is an important member of the Elyse Walker roster, representing the higher end of a store collection that ranges from easy-to-sell $195 Gigi Clozeau gold and resin bracelets (Clozeau doesn’t exhibit at the show) to a $16,000 Spinelli Kilcollin ring to Sylva & Cie’s one-of-a-kind masterpieces.
Lippin said her staff’s product expertise is key to communicating the worth of these pieces to customers.
“I think a lot of [the sale] is in the product knowledge and really being able to speak from a place of confident
knowledge about the designer, the integrity of the stones and the pieces that you’re buying.
“I can’t stress enough to my staff that taking the time to learn is the difference between selling it and not. If the value is there and the design is there, then the customer falls in love.”
Other designers who presented exciting color stories via tonal designs were Vram (“His work is stunning and just unlike anything I’ve ever seen,” Lippin said) and Emily P. Wheeler (“Her ombre gradation was just beautiful.”)
Neutrals and Convertibles
But bright color wasn’t for everyone.
Mizuki’s pearls, Sara Weinstock’s baguette diamonds, Spinelli Kilcollin’s new black gold collection and Jade Trau’s stable of round and fancy-cut diamonds all made a case for neutrals, according to Lippin, as did Cadar’s new heart pieces.
“It was very modern and not at all what I’ve seen from Cadar, and really made me look at the collection and take it seriously because it spoke to my customer, whereas before I thought it was maybe a little too mature.”
Lippin also said coins and medallions were hot, and she saw them from many of the brands she visited, including Sydney Evan and Marlo Laz.
Convertible pieces were another big trend, ideal for giving options to the woman who wants to personalize her look to her style.
“There’s a ton of convertible earrings with components that can be taken off—you can wear a simple huggie or you can wear a full drop with a big statement,” Lippin said.
One of the designers Lippin thought worked the concept most effectively was Robinson Pelham.
“Robinson Pelham is a line I picked up last year at Couture,” she said, “and the way that they’re doing all of their ear charms and reinventing the wheel by putting removable colored backs on them, the fact that you can take this concept and wear it so many different ways I just think is awesome.”
D.C. Johnson’s Johnson and Schmitz also were fans of the convertible styles they saw at Couture.
“We’re really loving that and seeing a lot of that with charms and different things, allowing you to start with one piece and then get separates to add to it,” Schmitz said.
D.C. Johnson is considering adding Nancy Newberg, who exhibits with Muse at Couture, to its designer roster.
Of Newberg's highly convertible earrings Schmitz explained, “It’s one small huggie, and then you can add different hoops and mix metals. It’s a great self-purchase.”
Getting Personal
Johnson and Schmitz, who have revamped D.C. Johnson with the recent opening of a new, luxurious Columbus storefront that would fit right into the pages of Architectural Digest, are also keen to amp up their offerings of personalized jewelry that allows customers to build collections representative of their unique stories, or to give as gifts to loved ones.
“We’ve liked a lot of personalization and initials,” Johnson said, specifically Sorellina’s signet rings and pendants that allow for both initials and motifs.
They’re also big fans of Andrea Fohrman’s moon phase pendants (pictured above).
“It’s personalization that isn’t so obvious,” Schmitz said. “We love those. Those are ones you can add to, too.
“If you have three kids, you could have a moon phase for each of their birthdays or your anniversary. I think people feel like it’s a secret sentimental piece because no one will know what it means unless you tell them.”
Regardless of the meaning, Schmitz said some of their clients will buy an Andrea Fohrman moon phase pendant just because they like the specific shape or enamel color.
Opals in general were a big part of Couture’s color trend, Johnson and Schmitz said, as was turquoise. Both materials felt modern and refined in the hands of the jewelry trade show’s designers.
“Pretty much all of this jewelry is new to Columbus, so it’s fun to introduce these trends and let people know there are trends in fine jewelry because I don’t think a lot of people realize that, especially with opals. I think a lot of people think of them as being their grandmother or great-aunt’s stones,” Schmitz said.
Beyond Basic
Hoops and chokers, specifically of the 15-inch variety, were also ever-present among designers’ booths, as were interesting chains that went far beyond the basic.
“Unique chains has been a trend that we’ve seen,” Johnson said, “like a classic chain but with a modern interpretation.”
Johnson and Schmitz saw such offerings at Single Stone, a brand they stock, as well as Talkative, a Japanese line that made its Couture debut this year that they are considering for their store. Talkative makes oversized interlocking links the focus of its designs.
While this trip to Couture was mostly focused on strengthening existing relationships, D.C. Johnson Limited also added some new talent to its showroom.
Silvia Furmanovich’s marquetry jewelry and objects, including new jewelry boxes, are a natural fit for the store, which feels more like an expertly-designed home than a retail location.
One category, however, Johnson said he thought was lacking from Couture designers was clean, unfussy bridal jewelry.
For that, Johnson has two go-tos: Single Stone and Erika Winters.
The brands’ yellow gold, rose gold and platinum styles, particularly east-west set stones, unique cuts and bezel settings, appeal to Johnson's bridal customers.
“Even though Erika has a little bit of a vintage feel, it’s still executed in a modern way,” Johnson said. “She’s my favorite. In 25 years, I’ve never seen anyone execute a finish like that.”
Twist’s Take
For retailer Twist, located in Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Couture is essential in reconnecting with the company’s large roster of designers and seeking out new talent.
“This show has a lot of foreign designers and there’s nowhere else I can see that,” said owner Paul Schneider. “There are whole new approaches to jewelry and design from other cultures that are super-sophisticated and modern.”
Schneider was taken with Sandrine de Laage, a French veteran of brands like Cartier, who exhibited in the Design Atelier this year.
The designer is another proponent of convertible jewelry, creating a multi-hoop earring that becomes a bracelet and a ring.
In addition to de Laage, Schneider said Twist picked up two other brands at the show, both of whom also debuted in the Design Atelier this year—Prounis and Aisha Baker, the latter of which was another colorful enamel standout this year.
“We represent almost 120 designers, and we have really strong commitments to them,” Schneider said. “That’s our DNA. It’s hard for us to get rid of them because we really care about their work so every time we add one it’s like, ‘What do we do now? We’re going to need to add a floor.’”
Schneider said that in the five days they commit to Couture each year—the full run of the show without stops at any other jewelry trade shows—he and his team still don’t get to see every designer they want to.
“As a show, it’s far and away the best show in our world. It’s hard to compare with anything. The worst Couture show would be better than the best any other show.”
Schneider also remarked that the Couture community is important to his business, allowing him to reconnect with industry friends he only sees once a year.
“There’s great networking,” he said. “We love to share with our friends what’s new and hot … It’s such an industry-central place, so it’s the most important thing we do all year.”
Elyse Walker’s Lippin noted how Couture has simplified her buying. She hasn’t been to a market week in Paris for two years because she’s able to find everything she needs at the jewelry trade show.
“I think Couture has done a really good job of curating designers and incorporating the new and different,” she said.
“It’s really changed the way I buy because I used to travel to all markets. I used to go to New York and Paris and now I really don’t have to because Couture really has done a fantastic job [gathering] everything I want to see here in Las Vegas.”
“I can’t stress enough to my staff that taking the time to learn is the difference between selling it and not. If the value is there and the design is there, then the customer falls in love.”
Other designers who presented exciting color stories via tonal designs were Vram (“His work is stunning and just unlike anything I’ve ever seen,” Lippin said) and Emily P. Wheeler (“Her ombre gradation was just beautiful.”)
Neutrals and Convertibles
But bright color wasn’t for everyone.
Mizuki’s pearls, Sara Weinstock’s baguette diamonds, Spinelli Kilcollin’s new black gold collection and Jade Trau’s stable of round and fancy-cut diamonds all made a case for neutrals, according to Lippin, as did Cadar’s new heart pieces.
“It was very modern and not at all what I’ve seen from Cadar, and really made me look at the collection and take it seriously because it spoke to my customer, whereas before I thought it was maybe a little too mature.”
View this post on InstagramA post shared by CADAR Official (@cadardesigns) on May 31, 2019 at 9:46am PDT
Lippin also said coins and medallions were hot, and she saw them from many of the brands she visited, including Sydney Evan and Marlo Laz.
Convertible pieces were another big trend, ideal for giving options to the woman who wants to personalize her look to her style.
“There’s a ton of convertible earrings with components that can be taken off—you can wear a simple huggie or you can wear a full drop with a big statement,” Lippin said.
One of the designers Lippin thought worked the concept most effectively was Robinson Pelham.
“Robinson Pelham is a line I picked up last year at Couture,” she said, “and the way that they’re doing all of their ear charms and reinventing the wheel by putting removable colored backs on them, the fact that you can take this concept and wear it so many different ways I just think is awesome.”
D.C. Johnson’s Johnson and Schmitz also were fans of the convertible styles they saw at Couture.
“We’re really loving that and seeing a lot of that with charms and different things, allowing you to start with one piece and then get separates to add to it,” Schmitz said.
D.C. Johnson is considering adding Nancy Newberg, who exhibits with Muse at Couture, to its designer roster.
Of Newberg's highly convertible earrings Schmitz explained, “It’s one small huggie, and then you can add different hoops and mix metals. It’s a great self-purchase.”
Getting Personal
Johnson and Schmitz, who have revamped D.C. Johnson with the recent opening of a new, luxurious Columbus storefront that would fit right into the pages of Architectural Digest, are also keen to amp up their offerings of personalized jewelry that allows customers to build collections representative of their unique stories, or to give as gifts to loved ones.
“We’ve liked a lot of personalization and initials,” Johnson said, specifically Sorellina’s signet rings and pendants that allow for both initials and motifs.
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Andrea Fohrman (@andreafohrman) on Feb 11, 2019 at 12:07pm PST
They’re also big fans of Andrea Fohrman’s moon phase pendants (pictured above).
“It’s personalization that isn’t so obvious,” Schmitz said. “We love those. Those are ones you can add to, too.
“If you have three kids, you could have a moon phase for each of their birthdays or your anniversary. I think people feel like it’s a secret sentimental piece because no one will know what it means unless you tell them.”
Regardless of the meaning, Schmitz said some of their clients will buy an Andrea Fohrman moon phase pendant just because they like the specific shape or enamel color.
“It’s fun to … let people know there are trends in fine jewelry because I don’t think a lot of people realize that, especially with opals. I think a lot of people think of them as being their grandmother or great-aunt’s stones.”
— Libby Schmitz, D.C. Johnson Ltd.
Her color, in both enamel and gemstones, is resonating with their clients, as is Amali, the brand best known for its opal necklaces set in woven gold.
Opals in general were a big part of Couture’s color trend, Johnson and Schmitz said, as was turquoise. Both materials felt modern and refined in the hands of the jewelry trade show’s designers.
“Pretty much all of this jewelry is new to Columbus, so it’s fun to introduce these trends and let people know there are trends in fine jewelry because I don’t think a lot of people realize that, especially with opals. I think a lot of people think of them as being their grandmother or great-aunt’s stones,” Schmitz said.
Beyond Basic
Hoops and chokers, specifically of the 15-inch variety, were also ever-present among designers’ booths, as were interesting chains that went far beyond the basic.
“Unique chains has been a trend that we’ve seen,” Johnson said, “like a classic chain but with a modern interpretation.”
Johnson and Schmitz saw such offerings at Single Stone, a brand they stock, as well as Talkative, a Japanese line that made its Couture debut this year that they are considering for their store. Talkative makes oversized interlocking links the focus of its designs.
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Shinobu Marotta (@talkative_marotta) on Apr 6, 2019 at 5:37am PDT
While this trip to Couture was mostly focused on strengthening existing relationships, D.C. Johnson Limited also added some new talent to its showroom.
Silvia Furmanovich’s marquetry jewelry and objects, including new jewelry boxes, are a natural fit for the store, which feels more like an expertly-designed home than a retail location.
One category, however, Johnson said he thought was lacking from Couture designers was clean, unfussy bridal jewelry.
“She’s my favorite. In 25 years, I’ve never seen anyone execute a finish like that.”“There’s a lot of opportunity for designers here to get into bridal and execute it without being fussy—just classic, simple bridal,” he said.
— D.C. Johnson Ltd.’s David Johnson on jewelry designer Erika Winters
For that, Johnson has two go-tos: Single Stone and Erika Winters.
The brands’ yellow gold, rose gold and platinum styles, particularly east-west set stones, unique cuts and bezel settings, appeal to Johnson's bridal customers.
“Even though Erika has a little bit of a vintage feel, it’s still executed in a modern way,” Johnson said. “She’s my favorite. In 25 years, I’ve never seen anyone execute a finish like that.”
Twist’s Take
For retailer Twist, located in Portland, Oregon and Seattle, Couture is essential in reconnecting with the company’s large roster of designers and seeking out new talent.
“This show has a lot of foreign designers and there’s nowhere else I can see that,” said owner Paul Schneider. “There are whole new approaches to jewelry and design from other cultures that are super-sophisticated and modern.”
Schneider was taken with Sandrine de Laage, a French veteran of brands like Cartier, who exhibited in the Design Atelier this year.
The designer is another proponent of convertible jewelry, creating a multi-hoop earring that becomes a bracelet and a ring.
In addition to de Laage, Schneider said Twist picked up two other brands at the show, both of whom also debuted in the Design Atelier this year—Prounis and Aisha Baker, the latter of which was another colorful enamel standout this year.
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Aisha Baker (@aishabakerjewelry) on May 6, 2019 at 9:18am PDT
“We represent almost 120 designers, and we have really strong commitments to them,” Schneider said. “That’s our DNA. It’s hard for us to get rid of them because we really care about their work so every time we add one it’s like, ‘What do we do now? We’re going to need to add a floor.’”
Schneider said that in the five days they commit to Couture each year—the full run of the show without stops at any other jewelry trade shows—he and his team still don’t get to see every designer they want to.
“As a show, it’s far and away the best show in our world. It’s hard to compare with anything. The worst Couture show would be better than the best any other show.”
Schneider also remarked that the Couture community is important to his business, allowing him to reconnect with industry friends he only sees once a year.
“There’s great networking,” he said. “We love to share with our friends what’s new and hot … It’s such an industry-central place, so it’s the most important thing we do all year.”
Elyse Walker’s Lippin noted how Couture has simplified her buying. She hasn’t been to a market week in Paris for two years because she’s able to find everything she needs at the jewelry trade show.
“I think Couture has done a really good job of curating designers and incorporating the new and different,” she said.
“It’s really changed the way I buy because I used to travel to all markets. I used to go to New York and Paris and now I really don’t have to because Couture really has done a fantastic job [gathering] everything I want to see here in Las Vegas.”
More on Events & Awards
The Latest
CrimeOct 31, 2025
5 More Arrested in Louvre Heist, Jewelry Still Missing The suspects were rounded up in Paris and its suburbs on Wednesday night, but none of the stolen jewels were recovered with them.
Recorded WebinarsOct 31, 2025
Watch: How to Master Google Reviews for Your BusinessExperts share top tips on how to encourage positive reviews and handle negative feedback.
Supplier BulletinOct 30, 2025
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessSponsored by the Gemological Institute of America
Weekly QuizOct 30, 2025
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
CrimeOct 30, 2025
29-Year-Old Man Charged in Multiple Seattle-Area Smash and Grabs The suspect faces charges in the August robbery of Menashe & Sons Jewelers and is accused of committing smash and grabs at two pawn shops.
Lab-GrownOct 30, 2025
Alison Lou’s New Collection Uses Lab-Grown Diamonds and ResinThe “Lumière Fine” collection was born from designer Alison Chemla’s interest in the transformative power of light.
Brought to you by
DESERT DIAMONDS: The Newest Trend in Natural Diamond JewelryFrom sunlit whites to smoky whiskeys, introduce your clients to extraordinary diamonds in colors as unique as their love.
TrendsOct 30, 2025
Amanda’s Style File: A Haunted HalloweenShow off your spooky side with these 12 festive jewels.
Events & AwardsOct 29, 2025
Couture Partners With Time to WatchesThe company, which organizes a watch show in Geneva every spring, will bring a selection of watch brands to the 2026 Couture show in Vegas.
TrendsOct 29, 2025
Beth Bernstein Releases Vintage Jewelry Guide“The Modern Guide to Vintage Jewellery” follows the evolution of jewelry design from the ‘30s to the ‘80s with buying and styling advice.
EditorsOct 29, 2025
Why Creepy, Crawly Bugs Inspire Beautiful JewelryFor her annual Halloween story, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow explores the symbolism behind spiders, beetles, and other eerie insects.
Events & AwardsOct 28, 2025
Meet the 2026 Gem Award NomineesNotable jewelry designers, members of the press, and retailers are up for an award at next year’s gala.
Recorded WebinarsOct 28, 2025
Watch: The State of the Jewelry Industry Leaders from Jewelers of America and National Jeweler discuss the gold price, tariffs, and more in this one-hour webinar.
CollectionsOct 28, 2025
Eriness Reflects on Life in ‘One of One’ CollectionAfter experiencing motherhood, growth, and loss, founder and designer Erin Sachse has created 10 irreplaceable jewels.
AuctionsOct 27, 2025
Napoleon Left This Brooch Behind, And Now It’s Up For AuctionIt is part of Sotheby’s “Royal & Noble Jewels” sale along with an ornate hair ornament and an old mine-cut light pink diamond ring.
CrimeOct 27, 2025
Arrests Made in Louvre Jewel Heist One of the individuals was apprehended at the airport as he was trying to flee the country.
MajorsOct 27, 2025
Target to Cut 1,800 Corporate JobsThe retailer, which has faced struggling sales in recent quarters, is looking to streamline its operations.
Events & AwardsOct 27, 2025
Hill Management Group Hired to Help Atlanta Jewelry ShowHill Management Group will oversee, market, and produce next year’s spring show.
AuctionsOct 24, 2025
Bonhams Under New Ownership, Top Executives ReplacedLondon-based investment firm Pemberton Asset Management acquired the auction house for an undisclosed amount.
GradingOct 24, 2025
DMIA to Hold Diamond Testing Instrument DemoThe workshop will give attendees the chance to try out and ask questions about three different diamond verification instruments.
CrimeOct 24, 2025
Video Emerges of Louvre Jewelry Robbers Fleeing the Scene The footage shows two of the jewelry heist suspects descending from the second floor of the museum and then escaping via scooter.
CollectionsOct 24, 2025
Piece of the Week: Wyld Box Jewelry’s ‘Ray of Light’ EarringsFounder and designer Rosanna Fiedler looked to a vintage Cartier clutch when designing the sunlight-inspired drop earrings.
FinancialsOct 23, 2025
Jewelry Sales Resilient Despite Struggles at LVMH, KeringThe luxury conglomerates faced a challenging Q3 amid geopolitical and economic tensions.
SourcingOct 23, 2025
Petra Diamonds Turns to Shareholders to Raise Capital The struggling diamond mining company, which owns the historic Cullinan mine, has launched a rights issue to raise about $25 million.
WatchesOct 23, 2025
‘Million Dollar Hip Hop Watches’ Recounts Watch HistoryThe book details the journey of watches as symbols of hard-earned success in hip-hop for artists like 2Pac, Jay-Z, and more.
AuctionsOct 23, 2025
Freeman’s | Hindman Names New VP, Senior Specialist for Jewelry & WatchesAlexis Vourvoulis, who most recently worked at Tiffany & Co., brings more than two decades of jewelry experience to her new role.
