Independents

State of Jewelry Design: New Retailers’ Biggest Successes and Mistakes

IndependentsJun 01, 2022

State of Jewelry Design: New Retailers’ Biggest Successes and Mistakes

Jewelry store owners reflect on what they’ve gotten right and wrong in their first years of business.

20220601_SOTM-Retailers-thevault.jpg
Katherine Jetter, owner of The Vault Nantucket, is pictured at the company’s Boston store.
Editor’s Note: This story first appeared in the print edition of the 2022 State of the Majors. Click here to see the full issue.
 
Operating a new jewelry store in the pandemic era has presented emerging retailers with unprecedented challenges and successes. 
 
National Jeweler asked the six fine jewelry retailers profiled in the State of the Majors magazine article “State of Jewelry Design: Meet the New American Jeweler” to share what they’ve gotten right, and wrong, since opening in recent years (or mere months ago).  
 
Here’s what they had to say. 

20220601_SOTM-Retailers-pendleton.jpg
Pendleton Jewelry owner Michelle Pendleton, pictured with her husband

Michelle Pendleton, Pendleton Jewelry
Kansas City, Kansas
 
Success: Since the store’s entire existence has been during the pandemic, I feel like we have pivoted in ways we never thought were possible. Private in-store appointments along with video chats, on-demand text messaging, home try-on services and other concierge-like offerings grew exponentially the past year and now have become standard practices, which we are more than happy to accommodate and continue.
 
Mistake: See our answer about successes! It is hard to scale the business without losing a touch of the on-demand offerings, but we will continue to make the quality experience our first priority, even if that means pacing our growth.

Rachael Nov, Gin & The Banker
Bellevue, Washington
 
Success: We have curated our designer selection well, allowing each designer to stand out and not compete with the designers they sit next to. Not oversaturating our store and keeping our selection tight allows each designer to get the recognition and attention they deserve.
 
Mistake: Mistaking that I can’t be both kind and assertive.

20220601_SOTM-Retailers-donpurcell.jpg
Don Purcell spent years at boutique Jeffrey in both New York and Atlanta before opening his own fine jewelry store in Atlanta’s Buckhead neighborhood in 2021.
 
Don Purcell, Don Purcell
Atlanta, Georgia
 
Success: We have consistently engaged the community with our trunk shows and events. We create an experience at our events, which are usually catered with a bar and DJ. 
 
Mistake: The only mistake was not opening my own store sooner.

 Related stories will be right here … 

Katherine Jetter, The Vault Nantucket
Boston and Nantucket, Massachusetts 
 
Success: I feel really proud of the community we have built with our vendors. There is no competition, no cattiness, just a wonderful group of designers who all love and support one another in the most beautiful way.
 
Mistake: I’ve made plenty of them and I probably still am. I wouldn’t call it a mistake, but I was very lucky to not sign a lease two weeks before the pandemic hit—that would have been a major mistake. As an entrepreneur, I’ve learned that hiring people from a company culture perspective is more important than a conceptual hire. 
 
20220601_SOTM-Retailers-tinygods.jpg
Mary Margaret Beaver is pictured in her jewelry store Tiny Gods in Charlotte, North Carolina.

Mary Margaret Beaver, Tiny Gods
Charlotte, North Carolina
 
Success: I have trusted my instincts and have made it a point to take chances. 
 
Mistake: I opened in such a whirlwind that, at times, I was so living and breathing and working in the moment that I didn’t allow for thoughtful far-future planning. This I know I can do better! 

Ryan Ryan, The Fine Jewelry Bar
Palm Desert, California
 
Success: Carrying out the high standards I set for myself from the beginning to make shopping at The Fine Jewelry Bar an experience the customer will not easily forget.
 
Mistake: Underestimating the complications and breadth of retail coming from being a designer/wholesaler.  

 Related stories will be right here … 

The Latest

Stock image of a gavel and books
CrimeAug 03, 2026
Florida Man Gets 15 Years in Trio of Jewelry Store Robberies

The 50-year-old man pleaded guilty earlier this year to robbing two jewelry stores and a pawn shop of more than $700,000 in merchandise.

Spider-Man Citizen watch and pin on a web
WatchesAug 03, 2026
Citizen's New Spider-Man Watch Is a Collector’s Dream

The watch’s dial features an original design by Marvel comics illustrator Adam Kubert.

Chatham Men’s Collection Campaign Imagery
CollectionsAug 03, 2026
Chatham Releases First Men’s Collection

The new collection of lab-grown diamond and colored gemstone jewelry provides a “fresh perspective” on the category, Chatham said.

1872-x-1052-July-ad (1).png
Brought to you by
Why More Jewelry Retailers Are Hosting Turnkey Estate Buying Events

Retailers are seeking new ways to attract customers, increase traffic, and create revenue – Estate buying events are a popular solution.

Pomellato Marvelous Griffe earrings
TrendsAug 03, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Spinel vs. Peridot

While some August babies are team peridot, the month's time-honored birthstone, others are team spinel, the newer alternative.

Weekly QuizJul 30, 2026
This Week’s Quiz
Test your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
Take the Quiz
Edina Kiss Popsicle Pendant and Karina Choudhrie Ice Cream Charm
TrendsJul 31, 2026
These Pieces of the Week Are Sweet

Edina Kiss’ “Popsicle” pendant and Karina Choudhrie’s “Ice Cream” charm satisfy that summer craving for a sweet piece of jewelry.

Macy’s Herald Square store sign
MajorsJul 31, 2026
Macy’s Iconic Red Shopping Bag Sign Torn Down

The massive billboard has been in the same spot on the department store’s Herald Square flagship store for decades.

Brought-To-By-Article-Top-Image.jpg
Brought to you by
Wedding Band Trends 2026: Personalization Takes Center Stage

Colored gemstones, artisan finishes, mixed metals, and meaningful details are shaping demand in bridal jewelry.

Gemfields emeralds
SourcingJul 31, 2026
Gemfields’ H1 Revenue Jumps 72%

The miner’s ruby and emerald auctions brought in a combined $102.9 million.

Stock image of a polished diamond being held by tweezers
SourcingJul 30, 2026
De Beers Sale in ‘Final, Most Challenging’ Phase, Anglo CEO Says

The goal is for the De Beers sale to be finished by the second half of 2026, with the subsequent approvals process expected to take a year.

U.S. Trade Representative Jamieson Greer and Jewelers of America President and CEO David Bonaparte in Washington, D.C.
Policies & IssuesJul 30, 2026
JA Heads Back to Washington as New Wave of Tariffs Takes Effect

David Bonaparte, along with Tim Haake and Ronnie VanderLinden, continue to lobby for tariff exemptions for diamonds, gemstones, and pearls.

Hands pushing shopping cart
SurveysJul 30, 2026
Consumer Confidence Slips in July

Survey respondents were concerned about the rising prices of food and groceries as well as unemployment.

Paola De Luca Presents Trendvision Book
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Vicenzaoro Releases 2026 Education Lineup

The trade show, slated for Sept. 4-8 in Vicenza, Italy, will feature sessions on trends, AI, gemology, and manufacturing.

Jewels by Grace Hillsborough Show
Events & AwardsJul 30, 2026
Hillsborough Show Moves to New Location for 2026

The public shopping event featuring art, jewelry, watches, and rare collectibles, will take place in Santa Clara, California, this fall.

Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão at the 2026 African Mining Indaba
EditorsJul 29, 2026
Q&A: The Past and Future of Angola’s Diamond Industry

Endiama Commercial Director Elton Escrivão knows people have a lot of misperceptions about Angola. He wants to change that.

Kevin Reilly PGI USA
MajorsJul 29, 2026
Kevin Reilly Retires After 39 Years in the Jewelry Industry

Reilly has been with PGI USA for the last 20 years, leading partnership development and professional education.

Pomellato Mandala Chromia necklace
FinancialsJul 29, 2026
Kering’s H1 Jewelry Sales Up 14%

Boucheron reached record sales while Pomellato found success in its signature collections.

United Flags of Fashion Arkansas Flag By Lauren Harwell Godfrey
Events & AwardsJul 29, 2026
Lauren Harwell Godfrey Designs a Flag for Arkansas

She was one of more than 120 American designers who created flags for the “United Flags of Fashion” project led by CFDA and Vogue.

The Retail Smiths partner and National Jeweler columnist Peter Smith 
ColumnistsJul 28, 2026
Peter Smith: Why Your Job Postings May Be Working Against You

Smith reveals the method The Retail Smiths use to help retailers and vendors write better job postings.

Tiffany & Co butterfly necklace
FinancialsJul 28, 2026
Tiffany & Co., Bulgari Lead the Way for LVMH in H1

LVMH’s jewelry and watch brands outperformed the company’s other divisions in an environment the company described as “disrupted.”

Lionheart Sacred Heart Charm Necklace
CollectionsJul 28, 2026
Lionheart’s New Collection Unites Spiritual Iconography

“Sacred Heart” features symbols like crosses, angel wings, the Star of David, and the evil eye as a representation of coexistence.

Events & AwardsJul 28, 2026
The Edge Funding 2 Scholarships Via 24 Karat Club SEUS

The scholarships will go to early-career professionals looking to study gemology, bench work and jewelry design, or store operations.

Mikimoto L'éclat high jewelry brooch
SurveysJul 27, 2026
Jewelry Leads Luxury Market Amid Stabilization, Bain Says

Bain & Company delved into the trends shaping the luxury market, the impact of AI, and more in its recent study.

Harvard Rubies Exhibit The Soul of Flame II Brooch by Austy Lee
SourcingJul 27, 2026
‘Rubies’ Goes on Display at Harvard Museum

The exhibition reveals the gemology, geology, and cultural history of the iconic red gemstone.

Stock image of shipping containers in port
Policies & IssuesJul 24, 2026
New Trump Tariffs: What They Mean for Jewelry

The new sweeping slate of tariffs impacts 60 countries, including India, China, Thailand, Hong Kong, and the United Arab Emirates.

Jorge Adeler Gods & Heroes coin pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: Ode to ‘The Odyssey’

From coin pendants to diamond shields, these old world-inspired jewels are the perfect accessory for an epic journey.

Courtney Leidy Amethyst Silk Cord Pendant
TrendsJul 24, 2026
Courtney Leidy’s Silk Cord Pendants Center Unexpected Pairings

Our Piece of the Week pairs a checkerboard-cut amethyst with an ivy green silk cord.

×

This site uses cookies to give you the best online experience. By continuing to use & browse this site, we assume you agree to our Privacy Policy