WatchesMay 11, 2022
Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction Was a White Glove Sale AuctionsJul 13, 2022
‘Unicorn’ Cartier Watch Hits the Auction Block
Only four models of the Cartier Cheich watch were ever produced, and Sotheby’s Paris is offering one of them.
This 1983 Cartier Cheich watch, one of four in existence, is the first to appear at auction. Sotheby’s Paris will offer the rare timepiece this September.
Paris—A rare and important Cartier wristwatch is headed to Sotheby’s Paris this September.
The auction house will offer the 1983 Cartier Cheich watch—what it’s calling a “watch unicorn”—on Sept. 30 as part of its Luxury Edit sale series.
The model has a history steeped in racing lore that begins with the Paris-Dakar race, also known as the Dakar Rally.
The Race That Inspired the Cartier Challenge
Started in 1978, the Paris-Dakar race originally began in Paris, France and ended in Dakar, Senegal, traveling some 10,000 kilometers, or 6,214 miles. (Today, the Dakar rally is held in Saudia Arabia after a decade in South America.)
Motorcycle racer Thierry Sabine conceived the Paris-Dakar rally after becoming lost during a race in the Libyan desert and falling in love with the landscape.
He opened the Paris-Dakar to any motorized land vehicle, amateur or professional. The grueling race took 20 days, with racers camping out along the way.
On Paris-Dakar’s fifth anniversary in 1983, Sabine partnered with Cartier’s then-president Alain Dominique Perrin on the Cartier Challenge.
It required a racer to win the race twice in consecutive years, with the same form of transport both years, i.e. motorcycle, car, or truck.
Only one contender was able to fulfill the Cartier Challenge—Belgian Gaston Rahier won in 1984 and 1985 by motorbike.
Rahier’s illustrious career nearly ended in 1982 when he came close to losing his hand in a motorbike accident. Determined to recover, he participated in his first Paris-Dakar rally the following year in 1983.
He was the first non-French person to win the race in 1984, and the first and only winner of the Cartier Challenge when he repeated the effort in 1985.
His victory was marked with a bespoke Cartier Cheich watch.
The Timepiece
Jacques Diltoer, the then-creative director of Cartier and Perrin, designed the Cartier Cheich in ode to the Paris-Dakar mascot, which depicted the silhouetted face of a Tuareg person, the Berber ethnic group that inhabits the Sahara, in traditional robes that protect from the desert sun, called the cheich.
Only four models of the Cartier Cheich were ever made. Two were created in 1983: the one awarded to Rahier that Sotheby’s is auctioning, and a ladies’ edition in case of a potential female winner.
A third edition was created in 1985 for a possible future champion.
Then-President Perrin had a fourth made for Paris-Dakar creator Sabine. This final edition is thought to have been given to a French motorbike race driver named Hubert Auriol but is believed to be lost.
Each of the four timepieces has unique elements.
Cartier designed the Cheich wristwatch to resemble the Paris-Dakar Rally mascot. The case depicts the cheich, or head robes, the Tuareg people traditionally wear in the Sahara to protect from the desert sun.
Rahier’s Cartier Cheich comes in its original box designed for the Cartier Challenge winner.
Rahier won the Cartier Challenge in 1985, having won the Paris-Dakar rally that year and the year before.
The Cartier Cheich’s elaborate case incorporates yellow, white, and rose gold.
The Cartier Challenge ended in 1986. That year, Sabine died in a helicopter crash in Mali resulting from a sandstorm during the Paris-Dakar rally.
Cartier has possession of the two remaining Cartier Cheich watches. According to Sotheby’s, the Cartier Cheich that Rahier won is the only one that will ever appear at market.
The cheich-inspired case is the most significant design departure from any other Cartier timepiece.
The unique shape required new engineering as it couldn’t accommodate the usual bars that screw through the lugs to attach to the strap. The back of the main case was carved with a special fixture that holds the strap in place.
While the case is unusual, it’s not the first to incorporate asymmetric elements. The Tank Asymétrique and Cartier Crash watches are examples of other asymmetric styles.
The Cheich case is rendered in 18-karat yellow gold with elements of 18-karat rose gold and 18-karat white gold, another Cartier signature as seen in styles like the Trinity rings.
The dial depicts a rectangular rail track with baton and Roman indexes as well as two blued-steel hands in classic Cartier Paris style.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
The Rahier Cartier Cheich is in pristine condition, according to Sotheby’s. Rahier’s family is offering the timepiece for sale, and it hasn’t been presented in public in almost 40 years. It even comes in its original box featuring a curved triangular shape designed in homage to desert dunes.
Under the Cartier signature, “Trophée Paris Alger Dakar” is inscribed.
Now, it is on view at Sotheby’s Monaco gallery through July 17. It will be exhibited in Paris prior to the Sept. 30 sale.
Sotheby’s estimates the Cartier Cheich watch will sell between €200,000 to €400,000, or approximately $200,749 to $401,498 per current exchange rates.
More on Auctions
The Latest
CollectionsJun 12, 2026
Chouette Designs To Launch Collection Celebrating All Types of LoveOur Pride Month Piece of the Week, the “Margaux” ring, is part of the wife-and-wife team’s new “Lovestoned” collection.
Events & AwardsJun 12, 2026
CBG Announces Plans for Phoenix ShowThe group has named the keynote speaker and announced a new pavilion for its next event, which is slated for September.
EditorsJun 11, 2026
This Was the Best Animal Jewelry in Las Vegas From lions and hippos to snails and fish, Senior Editor Lenore Fedow wrangles her picks for cutest jewelry critters in Las Vegas.
Brought to you by
All Eyes on Gold Prices. Alternatives to Look For. And What to BEWARE of in VegasAs gold prices rise, today’s retailers are looking for alternatives at prices that will appeal to wider audiences.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Grandview Klein, London Jewelers Partner To Cut 63-Carat RoughThe big stone will be fashioned into a 20.26-carat diamond in celebration of the retailer’s 100th anniversary this year.
Weekly QuizJun 11, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsJun 11, 2026
Former Cartier Creative Director To Head Chanel’s Jewelry Creation StudioMarie-Laure Cérède will join Chanel as the new director of its jewelry creation studio, starting in October.
Lab-GrownJun 11, 2026
Smiling Rocks’ ‘Wish Jar’ Generates 100+ Wishes in Las Vegas At the JCK show, the lab-grown diamond brand teamed up with Jewelers for Children to support Make-A-Wish India.
Brought to you by
How Modern Training Is Becoming a Competitive Advantage for Jewelry RetailersWith the trade and customer trust in mind, GIA® developed NextGem™ – on-demand training designed specifically for retail.
SourcingJun 11, 2026
Signet Jewelers Exec Joins Diamonds Do Good BoardIlana McCabe is Signet’s vice president of public relations and brand communications.
MajorsJun 10, 2026
Saks Global Receives Bankruptcy Court Approval for ReorganizationThe approval means the retailer is on track to exit bankruptcy proceedings this summer.
CrimeJun 10, 2026
2 Suspects Arrested in Texas Jewelry Store RobberyThe men are believed to be part of the group of several masked suspects that robbed Marc Robinson Jewelers in April.
CollectionsJun 10, 2026
Sylvie Debuts ‘Elevated’ Bridal Collection Inspired By Designer’s RingThe bridal-focused brand is also launching its Custom Atelier this summer, a digital custom design tool for its authorized retailers.
EditorsJun 09, 2026
Q&A: Al Cook on the Lab-Grown ‘Bubble,’ Dwindling Diamond Supply The De Beers Group CEO also discussed tariffs, Desert Diamonds, and the pending sale of De Beers in an interview with Michelle Graff.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Wilkerson's Russ Whitehouse RetiresThe industry veteran is bringing his 56-year run in the fine jewelry sector to an end.
Events & AwardsJun 09, 2026
Pride Month Panel to Highlight LGBTQ+ Jewelry VoicesThe panel discussion will feature LGBTQ+ leaders across the jewelry, luxury, and creative industries.
CollectionsJun 09, 2026
Marie Lichtenberg’s New Capsule Collection Is a Smash, LiterallyInspired by a locket that got run over, the “Smash” capsule collection reimagines the shape of Lichtenberg’s signature style.
MajorsJun 09, 2026
Frederick Goldman Names Director of Sales for SoutheastThe company has promoted Katherine Whitacre to the role.
MajorsJun 08, 2026
Stuller Expands Selection of Lab-Grown Diamonds, Demi-Fine JewelryThe jewelry manufacturer has added Taylor Swift-esque diamond shapes, and more silver, gold vermeil, and gold-plated jewelry.
SourcingJun 08, 2026
Sally Morrison to Depart De Beers This Summer Morrison has been marketing diamonds on and off since the early 2000s and said she is leaving to “pursue new projects.”
TrendsJun 08, 2026
Amanda’s Style File: June’s Birthstone TrioThose born in June can celebrate with pearl, alexandrite, and moonstone jewelry.
TechnologyJun 08, 2026
Overnight Mountings Launches Ring Builder PlatformThe platform allows retailers to guide clients through a customizable engagement ring buying experience in a branded interface.
IndependentsJun 05, 2026
Pennsylvania Jewelry Store To Close After 79 YearsJim Springer, owner of Dunkelberger’s Fine Jewelry, is heading into retirement.
SurveysJun 05, 2026
Consumers to Cut Back on Spending Amid Rising Prices, Survey Shows When conducting its May consumer confidence survey, The Conference Board asked extra questions about consumers’ budgeting strategies.
CollectionsJun 05, 2026
Rebel Jewelry’s Charm Symbolizes Perseverance for Pride MonthThe “Tunnel” charm, our Piece of the Week, celebrates Pride Month with its design inspired by hope and the light at the end of the tunnel.
SourcingJun 05, 2026
State of Diamonds: The Way Forward for Natural DiamondsThe jewelry industry is reassessing its positioning as Gen Z reshapes the retail landscape and lab grown continues to gain market share.
AuctionsJun 04, 2026
Treasures from Maurice Tempelsman’s ‘Marvelous’ Life Head to AuctionUp for auction at Sotheby’s, the collection of Tempelsman’s personal effects includes a Cartier Tank watch Jackie O. gifted him.
CollectionsJun 04, 2026
Buddha Mama to Spend the Summer in AspenThe Miami-based fine jewelry brand will host its first summer residency in the Colorado mountain town from June 5 to Aug. 23.
