WatchesMay 23, 2022
Steven Kaiser, Watch Industry Veteran and Beloved Mentor, Dies at 68 Kaiser, whose illustrious career spanned decades, died suddenly on Friday.
Policies & IssuesJul 15, 2020
BIPOC Designers Have Something to Say to the Industry
An open letter from a group of black, indigenous, and people of color jewelry designers calls for more support, education and equity.
BIPOC designers who signed on to the open letter to the industry include, starting from top left, Andrea Rosales-Balcarcel, Jal Dhanani-Wade, letter author Angely Martinez, CastroNYC, Funlola Coker, Kassandra Lauren Gordon, Latoya Boyd and Lina Krakue (Images courtesy of Angely Martinez/Collage by Shantell Batista)
New York—A group of BIPOC—Black, indigenous, and people of color—jewelry designers have penned an open letter calling for more support and education, and demanding racial equity in the industry.
Authored by New York-based jewelry designer Angely Martinez, the idea for the letter took seed in the weeks following George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police, when protests spread worldwide and forced both businesses and individuals to have conversations about racial inequities.
In the jewelry industry, tensions flared and boiled over during this period, with companies and individuals being boycotted and “canceled”—internet parlance for a collective withdrawal of support, usually of large companies or celebrities—on social media.
Authored by New York-based jewelry designer Angely Martinez, the idea for the letter took seed in the weeks following George Floyd’s murder at the hands of Minneapolis police, when protests spread worldwide and forced both businesses and individuals to have conversations about racial inequities.
In the jewelry industry, tensions flared and boiled over during this period, with companies and individuals being boycotted and “canceled”—internet parlance for a collective withdrawal of support, usually of large companies or celebrities—on social media.
Jewelry designer Angely Martinez
Martinez and designer Jules Kim, founder of Bijules and the Bijules Incubator, decided together the social media battles weren’t going to result in any formative change.
“What happens there [on social media], as we’ve seen, regardless of what the call-out might be, there’s constant back and forth, there’s unregulated conversations, and no call to action can be organized,” Kim observed.
So Martinez reached out to her fellow BIPOC designers and started writing.
She pulled their requests, desires and values into a single document, ultimately giving BIPOC designers a unified, collective voice about the change they want to see and how it can happen.
“We’re not asking for handouts,” Martinez emphasized. “This a very talented group of individuals. Nothing has been given to us. Everything we have, we have worked for and will continue to work for.”
Signed by a total of 29 BIPOC designers based in the U.S. and U.K., the letter lays out the commitments that members of the jewelry industry, from the largest corporations to the smallest companies, can and need to make to ensure long-term equity.
They include:
— Investing in education for BIPOC designers at all levels;
— Increasing the representation of BIPOC-owned businesses in retail shelf space;
— Employing people of color in classrooms, retail sales floors, trade show booths, marketing and merchandising positions, etc.;
— Increasing the presence of BIPOC on committees and boards;
— Continuing to find and support BIPOC designers through media interviews, articles, studio visits, social media, etc.;
— Acknowledging the origins of inspiration from BIPOC cultures, traditions, and historical objects; and
— Supporting the creation of a BIPOC Jewelers Association to protect the designers’ work and future.
Planned as a 501(c)6, Martinez said the association primarily will be led by BIPOC designers, with support from some non-BIPOC members of the industry, and will be for all genders.
Editors' Picks
Sponsored by
Its primary focus will be education, as well as creating grants for both emerging and established BIPOC designers.
“What we’ve been talking a lot about is outreach to high school students,” Martinez said.
She expects the association will take about six to nine months to get off the ground.
In the meantime, Kim said, there’s no need to wait for the nonprofit’s launch in order to act, as there is “a really beautiful roster” of BIPOC designers “itching to create and have their voices heard.”
Specific calls to action outlined in the letter include the following:
— Acting with grace, resolve and leadership, not defensiveness:
— Hosting of ongoing conversations pertaining to equality, equity and opportunity for BIPOC designers;
— Increasing access to raw materials and bench time, pricing strategies, merchandising tools, business marketing and strategy, responsible sourcing and sustainability;
— Including BIPOC into leadership and curatorial positions and establishing funds to create new institutions and opportunities for BIPOC;
— Recognizing racism within, acknowledging systemic racism and working to eliminate it;
— Increasing representation in editorial in industry-specific media outlets; and
— Recognition from major organizations in the industry, and a commitment to these actions.
To read the letter in its entirety or sign it to become more involved, click here.
For more information on the designers and their letter, or to get involved with or stay informed about these efforts, email jewelryindustrytaskforce@gmail.com.
“What we’ve been talking a lot about is outreach to high school students,” Martinez said.
She expects the association will take about six to nine months to get off the ground.
In the meantime, Kim said, there’s no need to wait for the nonprofit’s launch in order to act, as there is “a really beautiful roster” of BIPOC designers “itching to create and have their voices heard.”
Specific calls to action outlined in the letter include the following:
— Acting with grace, resolve and leadership, not defensiveness:
— Hosting of ongoing conversations pertaining to equality, equity and opportunity for BIPOC designers;
— Increasing access to raw materials and bench time, pricing strategies, merchandising tools, business marketing and strategy, responsible sourcing and sustainability;
— Including BIPOC into leadership and curatorial positions and establishing funds to create new institutions and opportunities for BIPOC;
— Recognizing racism within, acknowledging systemic racism and working to eliminate it;
— Increasing representation in editorial in industry-specific media outlets; and
— Recognition from major organizations in the industry, and a commitment to these actions.
To read the letter in its entirety or sign it to become more involved, click here.
For more information on the designers and their letter, or to get involved with or stay informed about these efforts, email jewelryindustrytaskforce@gmail.com.
More on Policies & Issues
The Latest
IndependentsMay 23, 2022
Long’s Jewelers to Open New LocationThe family-owned jeweler is relocating its Braintree, Massachusetts, store to a new space.
IndependentsMay 23, 2022
Luxury Goods Veteran Olivier Stip Joins Chicago Jeweler CD Peacock He will step into the retailer’s newly created role of chief development officer.
Brought to you by
Dive into GIA’s Pearl ExpertiseWhen it comes to knowing the identity and quality of your pearls, count on GIA as your independent pearl experts.
GradingMay 23, 2022
Gem-A Launches Digital Entry-Level Gemology CourseGemIntro is meant to give a broad introduction to gems and gemology.
Weekly QuizMay 19, 2022
This Week’s QuizTest your knowledge of the latest jewelry news with this quick test.
Recorded WebinarsMay 20, 2022
Watch: Responsible Sourcing and the Gold Supply Chain Three industry experts discuss “recycled” gold vs. mined, their challenges and benefits, and how jewelers can navigate the area.
FinancialsMay 20, 2022
Richemont’s 2022 Jewelry Sales in the Americas Nearly DoubleCartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Buccellati put on stellar performances.
Brought to you by
A.I. Grading is Changing Conversations at the Retail CounterAdvanced technology levels the playing field, helping jewelers give customers what they want.
AuctionsMay 20, 2022
Piece of the Week: ‘Birds in Flight’ by Oscar Heyman The New York jeweler made this incredible, colorful Art Deco bracelet featuring tropical birds in 1927.
SurveysMay 19, 2022
5 Predictions for Jewelry Retail in the Second Half of 2022From a slowdown in sales growth to rising costs, Fruchtman Marketing outlines its expectations for the second half of the year.
MajorsMay 19, 2022
As It Nears 75, Here’s How Grandview Klein Stays CompetitiveOnce a part of Julius Klein Group, the diamond company combines its direct supply and cutting expertise with a keen eye to the future.
SourcingMay 19, 2022
De Beers’ Rough Sales Up 21% So Far This Year One analyst cited rising diamond prices and the sanctions on Alrosa as contributing factors.
CollectionsMay 19, 2022
Brilliant Earth Collaborates with Jade TrauThe two have partnered on a capsule collection.
MajorsMay 19, 2022
Jewelers Mutual Adds 2 Industry Veterans to Its Board John A. Green of retailer Lux Bond & Green and Niveet Nagpal of Omi Privé have joined the board of directors as of May 18.
FinancialsMay 18, 2022
Watches of Switzerland’s Jewelry Sales More Than Doubled in Q4The retailer also said demand for Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet watches continues to exceed its supply.
AuctionsMay 18, 2022
Jewels from Bette Midler Are Headed to BonhamsThe auction house’s upcoming sale also includes collections from American heiresses.
IndependentsMay 18, 2022
Jeweler Lewis Baribault Celebrates 50th Work AnniversaryThe Connecticut jeweler reflected on five decades in the industry and what the future holds for the family business.
Events & AwardsMay 18, 2022
Visit A Mine in New Jersey With WJA New York MetroThe chapter has organized a day trip to the Sterling Hill Mine and Museum in Ogdensburg on Saturday, May 21.
SourcingMay 17, 2022
A New Source in Tanzania Is Producing Cobalt-Blue SpinelThe stones come from a deposit close to Mahenge and have been on the market for several months.
SourcingMay 17, 2022
‘Pop’ the Question With Stephanie Gottlieb’s New Diamond CutThe jewelry designer is partnering with popcorn brand Angie’s Boomchickapop on a whimsical diamond cut.
ColumnistsMay 17, 2022
What You Need to Know About the Google Analytics 4 RolloutIn the latest article from The Smart Lab, Emmanuel Raheb outlines the website changes jewelers can expect with this new software.
TechnologyMay 17, 2022
Virtual Diamond Boutique Uncorks the ‘Sales Genie’The new app allows salespeople to quickly and easily access a lot of inventory.
Events & AwardsMay 17, 2022
‘Cartier and Islamic Art’ Exhibition Opens in DallasFollowing its Paris debut, “Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity” has landed at the Dallas Museum of Art.
IndependentsMay 16, 2022
Mejuri Plans to Triple Its Store Count This YearThe fine jewelry brand expects to open 17 new locations, mostly in North America.
IndependentsMay 16, 2022
Karats Jewelers Plans Expansion Into 30,000-Square-Foot StoreThe Kansas retailer is aiming for a fall 2023 opening.
MajorsMay 16, 2022
Pandora Announces Plans to Build Third Factory, First Outside ThailandIt will be located in Vietnam’s Binh Duong Province, and construction is slated to start early next year.
IndependentsMay 16, 2022
MJSA Has Released its 2022 Buyer’s GuideIt’s full of hundreds of contacts for jewelry-making supplies and services.
