CollectionsApr 03, 2026
Taylor Swift’s ‘Elizabeth Taylor’ Video Puts Jewelry Front and CenterIconic pieces, like the Mike Todd Diamond Tiara, appear in the superstar’s new music video for her song inspired by the actress.
TrendsJan 28, 2015
The History Behind … Signet rings
This month’s antique jewelry feature examines the role, and resurgence, in society of signet rings, which were used to seal deals (literally) and communicate rank.
It’s signet rings like this circa 1920 14-karat gold piece with old round-cut diamonds that have survived until today. This particular ring is from Doyle&Doyle in New York.
New York--Signet rings have been around since ancient civilization, worn as protective amulets, for betrothal or as early form of branding and currency. But, primarily, they were used to seal deals (literally) and communicate rank.
“I love how personally important signets rings were historically,” said Elizabeth Doyle, co-owner of Doyle & Doyle in New York. “They were used to identify the owner, seal business deals and/ or convey the position or importance of the owner.”
While their purpose evolved over the centuries, signet rings were primarily in the masculine domain. Now, both genders are embracing the signet.
Actress Jennifer Lawrence recently sported one in a magazine fashion spread and Brad Pitt wears his with a tux at red carpet events, as Long’s Jewelers pointed out in its blog.
“I love the classic but edgy look of a signet on a woman. It’s more street style than evening wear,” Doyle said. “We’ve also seen men looking for signet rings as an alternative wedding band. They’re are a great option because they offer beautiful detailing while maintaining a masculine aesthetic.”
What are signet rings? Signet rings date to about 1400 B.C., when they were mostly devotional.
But signets soon evolved into symbols of power. “They became associated with nobility, like the king’s or pope’s rings,” said Sarah Churgin, director of jewelry at Rago Arts and Auctions. “With heraldry came specific crests or coats of arms requiring high-precision carving in very small spaces.”
In the 14th century, signets began to appear in betrothal rings, engraved with two clasped hands, a devotional inscription like “bound in the eyes of God,” and/or the wife’s or couple’s initials.
Thanks to a growing merchant class, signets became a form of branding during the Renaissance. As European merchants took to the Silk Road and began transporting goods overseas, they split up shipments among boats and caravans to minimize loss from theft and piracy. Merchants used signet rings to stamp seals on shipments, making it easier to identify goods on arrival. Their rings became a new sign of wealth and success.
Around the same time, memorial signet rings were introduced, often inscribed with a loved one’s name or initials as a type of mourning jewelry. Signet rings also began to be used to identify somebody as a member of a guild, often referred to as guild rings.
“Signet rings are less about heraldry by this
time,” Churgin said. “They become tokens of inclusion or affiliation.”
When were they popular? By the Victorian era, signet rings had become a staple of the well-dressed gentlemen, and part of the revivals of Renaissance and ancient jewelry. Signet rings remained a staple through the Deco and wartime eras, and maintained a high level of quality and elegance.
By 1950, however, both style and craftsmanship plummet. “After that, most signet rings don’t have the same quality,” Doyle says. “Often they have cast crests, instead of hand-engraved, or machine engraving.”
Why did people wear signet rings? Essentially, for the same reason people wear them today. “Wearing signet rings makes you look important,” Churgin says. “For gentlemen, a good signet ring is comfortable but stately looking. With women, they ultimately speak of quality.”
What materials were used for these pieces? Originally, signet rings were made mainly of brass and copper, sometimes bronze or silver, but it’s the gold rings that survive, the ones owned by the wealthy classes.
Starting in ancient times, many signets were carved in hardstone, usually agate, onyx, carnelian, or sardonyx, sometimes lapis or garnet. Most experts include ancient intaglios as a type of signet.
How much are signet rings worth? At Doyle & Doyle, they range from $385 for an early 20th century 14-karat gold heart with a floral-engraved shank to $3,200 for a Victorian ring with a carnelian intaglio and an 18-karat buckle-shaped band.
An English signet ring, c. 1300, sold at Sotheby’s last year for $26,563, yet ancient Roman and Greek intaglio rings frequently go for less than $5,000 at Christie’s antiquities sales. Simple gold signet rings can be found for less than $200 at auctions, especially those based in London.
How can a retailer add signet rings to their antique jewelry offerings? “Start by adding the more accessible styles,” Doyle said. “As your following for this style of ring grows, you can add more unusual and collectible styles.”
Oval shapes and signets with a monogram or coat of arms are the most common, with round shapes coming in a close second. Carved hardstone is slightly less common but still accessible. Rectangle, square and shield shapes are rarer and very collectible.
Doyle said monograms are sometimes a hard sell because people want their own initials. This is one reason celebrities such as Rihanna turn to contemporary designers for vintage-style monogrammed signet rings, custom-engraved with their own initials.
“People tend to prefer the signet rings with crests and coats of arms,” she said. “The ones with monograms can be beautiful too but they’re so personal, they have less universal appeal.”
When were they popular? By the Victorian era, signet rings had become a staple of the well-dressed gentlemen, and part of the revivals of Renaissance and ancient jewelry. Signet rings remained a staple through the Deco and wartime eras, and maintained a high level of quality and elegance.
By 1950, however, both style and craftsmanship plummet. “After that, most signet rings don’t have the same quality,” Doyle says. “Often they have cast crests, instead of hand-engraved, or machine engraving.”
Why did people wear signet rings? Essentially, for the same reason people wear them today. “Wearing signet rings makes you look important,” Churgin says. “For gentlemen, a good signet ring is comfortable but stately looking. With women, they ultimately speak of quality.”
What materials were used for these pieces? Originally, signet rings were made mainly of brass and copper, sometimes bronze or silver, but it’s the gold rings that survive, the ones owned by the wealthy classes.
Starting in ancient times, many signets were carved in hardstone, usually agate, onyx, carnelian, or sardonyx, sometimes lapis or garnet. Most experts include ancient intaglios as a type of signet.
How much are signet rings worth? At Doyle & Doyle, they range from $385 for an early 20th century 14-karat gold heart with a floral-engraved shank to $3,200 for a Victorian ring with a carnelian intaglio and an 18-karat buckle-shaped band.
An English signet ring, c. 1300, sold at Sotheby’s last year for $26,563, yet ancient Roman and Greek intaglio rings frequently go for less than $5,000 at Christie’s antiquities sales. Simple gold signet rings can be found for less than $200 at auctions, especially those based in London.
How can a retailer add signet rings to their antique jewelry offerings? “Start by adding the more accessible styles,” Doyle said. “As your following for this style of ring grows, you can add more unusual and collectible styles.”
Oval shapes and signets with a monogram or coat of arms are the most common, with round shapes coming in a close second. Carved hardstone is slightly less common but still accessible. Rectangle, square and shield shapes are rarer and very collectible.
Doyle said monograms are sometimes a hard sell because people want their own initials. This is one reason celebrities such as Rihanna turn to contemporary designers for vintage-style monogrammed signet rings, custom-engraved with their own initials.
“People tend to prefer the signet rings with crests and coats of arms,” she said. “The ones with monograms can be beautiful too but they’re so personal, they have less universal appeal.”
More on Trends
The Latest
MajorsApr 03, 2026
Saks Global Says It Will Emerge From Bankruptcy This SummerThe luxury retailer, which went Chapter 11 in January, announced Thursday that it has secured $500 million in exit financing.
Events & AwardsApr 03, 2026
JCK Luxury, NouvelleBox Partner on New Designer BallroomThe NouvelleBox ballroom will feature independent jewelry designers, including Lene Vibe, Wyld Box Jewelry, and Kiaia Limited.
Brought to you by
Protect Your Customers and Your BusinessYou deserve to know what you are selling–to protect your customers as well as your business and your reputation.
CollectionsApr 03, 2026
Buddha Mama Brings Its ‘Moon’ Locket To DallasThe one-of-a-kind locket, our Piece of the Week, opens to reveal three hidden images to keep close to your heart.
Weekly QuizApr 02, 2026
This Week’s QuizTest your jewelry news knowledge by answering these questions.
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Pandora Opens New Canadian Distribution Center Amid Tariff ConcernsThe new facility was also designed to better serve its growing customer base in Canada.
GradingApr 02, 2026
GIA Debuts New Campus in TaiwanIt is the only GIA school to offer the GIA Graduate Gemologist program in Chinese.
Brought to you by
Is This You? Every Jeweler Has This Problem; We Have the Solution.Every jeweler faces the same challenge: helping customers protect what they love. Here’s the solution designed for today’s jewelry business.
MajorsApr 02, 2026
DCA Launches ‘Second Spark’ Workforce InitiativeThe initiative connects veterans and parents returning to the workforce with careers in jewelry retail.
MajorsApr 02, 2026
Hoover & Strong Names New National Sales RepresentativeThe wholesale manufacturer and precious metals refiner has appointed Michael Angelo as its new national sales representative.
MajorsApr 01, 2026
Foundrae Sues Pandora for Allegedly Copying Its Medallion DesignsFoundrae also accused the jewelry giant of copying its mood board style of marketing.
AuctionsApr 01, 2026
John Jacob Astor IV’s Titanic Pocket Watch Heads to AuctionA Patek Philippe for Tiffany & Co. timepiece owned by the American businessman who died on the Titanic will be offered at Freeman's Chicago.
SurveysApr 01, 2026
Consumers’ Outlook Improves Again in MarchThe Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index edged up, with optimism about the present outweighing worries about the future.
IndependentsApr 01, 2026
Zachary’s Jewelers’ Constance Polamalu to Release Children’s BookThe retailer’s Zach Bear gift comes to life in “Zach Bear and the Window Necklace,” which centers on curiosity, bravery, and helping.
Events & AwardsApr 01, 2026
AGA Opens 2026 Gemological Scholarship, Research Grant ApplicationsApplications are open for the AGA Gemological Scholarship Program through May 15, and until June 2027 for the Gemological Research Grant.
ColumnistsMar 31, 2026
Q1 Clues That Reveal Where Your Jewelry Store’s Sales Are Heading These customer behavior patterns say a lot about how successful your jewelry store is going to be this year, Emmanuel Raheb writes.
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Mejuri Adds Silver to ‘Puzzle’ CollectionMejuri’s popular collection of 18-karat yellow gold vermeil rings debuted in sterling silver alongside new “Puzzle” slider charms.
CollectionsMar 31, 2026
Buddha Mama, Ashley Longshore to Host Pop-Up in DallasThe Miami-based jewelry brand and the NYC-based artist will be in Dallas from April 9-11.
SourcingMar 31, 2026
NDC Designates April 8 as 'World Diamond Day'The initiative invites those in the industry to share stories on social media highlighting the meaning and impact of natural diamonds.
SourcingMar 31, 2026
GIA VP Jillian Wolk to Take Over at Tracr Wolk’s first day on the job as CEO of Tracr, De Beers Group’s blockchain platform, will be May 1.
EditorsMar 30, 2026
Tom Moses Looks Back on His Decades at GIA Moses, who will leave the lab in May after nearly 50 years, discusses his start in the business, gemstones that stand out, and what’s next.
SourcingMar 30, 2026
Rio Tinto Hauls Last Load from DiavikProduction has ceased at the Canadian diamond mine, which has yielded more than 150 million carats of rough diamonds in its 23-year run.
MajorsMar 30, 2026
Tanishq Opens First New England LocationThe store opening marks the 10th United States location for the India-based jewelry retailer.
MajorsMar 27, 2026
Saks Global Has Changed Its Mind About Closing These 3 StoresTwo Saks Fifth Avenue locations, one in Florida and one in California, and one Neiman Marcus store are off the chopping block.
IndependentsMar 27, 2026
Jimmy West, Longtime LJG Executive Director, Dies at 72West, who started in the art department at the Leading Jewelers Guild in 1979, is remembered for his patience, kindness, and dedication.
CollectionsMar 27, 2026
Itä’s ‘Yarí Whirl’ Ring Tells Every Side of the StoryIn the “Tesoro” version of the ring, our Piece of the Week, each side of the gold hexagonal nugget has a unique colored gemstone design.
WatchesMar 26, 2026
Q&A: Citizen Watch America President Jeffrey Cohen on Eco-Drive’s 50th AnniversaryCohen discusses the evolution of Citizen’s light-powered technology, the brand’s cross-generational appeal, and tariffs.
